for by English Heritage. I'm standing inside an incredible Georgian house in

歡迎來到由英格蘭遺產管理的 肯伍德府（Kenwood House）

North London which was once home to William Murray 1st Earl of Mansfield

這位處北倫敦、宏偉的喬治王時代風格大宅

and his aristocratic companions in the 1700s. Today we're going to be looking at

在1700年代這裡曾經是第一代曼斯菲爾德伯爵 威廉·穆雷（William Murray）和他的親屬的住所

the late 18th century and we're going to show you how to recreate an authentic

今天我們會探索18世紀末的生活和 如何重現正宗的喬治王時代妝容

Georgian look. We'll be exploring not only what the cosmetics can reveal about

我們不單會窺探所用到的化妝品 可以訴說出那時候的英國的模樣

England during this period but also why bigger was better for the hairstyles of

還會看看喬治王時代最為人津津樂道的巨型髮型

the Georgians. Plus we've got an extra special treat for you. We're going to be

今天還會附贈一個特別驚喜

recreating two Georgian looks and talking about how both women and men

我們將會重現兩款喬治王時代妝容

used makeup to make an impression in Georgian society. I am so excited to see this!

和探討女士和男士如何以化妝融入 喬治王時代的交際圈

Hi Rebecca

實在是太讓人興奮了！

Hello Amber, welcome to the Georgian era

嗨Rebecca！

Thank you

妳好Amber，歡迎來到喬治王時代

This is Ashleigh, our model

多謝

Hi Ashleigh

這位是我們的模特兒Ashleigh

Take a great look at her because she's

嗨Ashleigh

going to be unrecognisable very soon.

現在好好認住她這張臉 因為很快她就會徹底地改頭換面

I can not wait. So today we're focusing on

我急不及待了 那麼今天我們的重點是喬治王時代

the Georgian era, this is a period of huge political and social upheaval huge change

這時候政局和社會經歷動盪和全面變革

Now technically it lasts from 1714 to 1837 but we're going to be focusing

更準確而言這個變革發生在1714至1837年

on just two decades, the 1770s and 1780s when George III was on the throne

但我們這次挑選了1770年代至1780年代 正當喬治三世在位的時候

So Rebecca what are the key elements from the look from this era?

所以呢Rebecca 這個年代的妝容有什麼特徵呢？

Well the look changed a little bit throughout the centuries but we're going to focus on doing

喬治王時代的美容風格在百年間經歷過些轉變

pale porcelain skin. dark black eyebrows and flushed rosy cheeks - it's going to be

但我們要重現的是那陶瓷般的雪白肌膚、 深黑眼眉和粉紅腮紅

very elegant very beautiful

這將會是非常優雅和美麗

Fantastic! Ican't wait let's get started

太美了！那讓我們立刻開始好嗎

Let's do it

開動吧

So step number one is, just like today, skin prep, and I've done loads of

好第一步，就像今天的護膚

research on skin care. Georgian ladies used creams, they used waters, they used

我做了許多關於護膚的研究 喬治時代女士會用上奶油、清水和各種潔面乳

all sorts of lotions. I found a great recipe that involves the juice of

我找到一個很棒的配方是...使用草莓汁

strawberries - wow! - onto skin

哇噢！ 塗在面上

Apparently you would put it on at night,

很明顯這個會在夜晚使用

you'd leave it on your skin overnight and then

然後就如此敷著草莓汁就寢

you wash it off with water with chervil in it, which is a form of parsley

到早上起床後就以浸著車窩草（chervil）的清水洗面 這葉子是荷蘭芹香草的一種

What this does, apparently, is to get rid of freckles and also to clear a tanned skin

這東西的功效是去斑和清理曬黑了的表皮

It's interesting you say that this was to get rid of freckles. This is a period

妳說道去斑就牽涉到一個很有趣的歷史

where we see the onset of the Industrial Revolution which you know really brings

這個時代正將會踏入工業革命

in huge changes throughout society. But the period we're in at the moment having

而它對整個社會產生了巨大轉變

tan skin or having freckles is really associated with outdoor agricultural

但在這之前雀斑和深色皮膚很容易令人聯想到 出外務農的體力活

work. It essentially is a sign that you don't have much money and so this is why

這意味著你並不富裕

people are trying to avoid it so much

因此大眾都盡力避免雀斑和深色皮膚

And the look that we're doing today is

而我們今天所做的妝容是為貴族淑女

for an aristocratic lady, so she wouldn't have had freckles, she wouldn't have had

所以她不應該有雀斑

a tan so we're going to get rid of those

她不會有古銅色肌膚 而我們就是要消除這些

So we're going to get rid of those freckles with our chervil water and strawberry face cream

所以我們以車窩水和草莓面乳去斑

Fantastic. Now the process of sort of getting dressed and getting

真好呢。現在這個輔料和化妝的步驟

ready the whole toilette was quite elaborate for women at this time and

對當時的女性來說都是頗精巧縝密

could be quite performative in some ways as well. There are some accounts of women

甚至可以說是有些為了滿足表演欲

getting ready while having breakfast or even while entertaining other women you

有些歷史文獻記載當時的女士會在吃早餐時化妝 或者是與其他女士交際時在她們面前化妝

could use it as a sort of socialising time for chatting and catching up on

以帶起聊天話題讓大家交流起來

gossip and things like that as well

然後就是各類八卦閒話

So our next step is to start creating the

下一步就是之前已經提及的 我們要塑造一個貴族淑女的形象

look and we've already said that we are going to be creating a look for

而且是一位出身名門望族的女士正準備與其他人交際

aristocratic ladies, and this one is for an affluent lady who's going out

為了重現那個白陶瓷面色我們會用到 「有點正宗」的喬治時代粉底配方

socialising. To achieve this pale, porcelain look I'm using an authentic-ish Georgian

我說有點正宗是因為部分原料是當今時代不能用的

recipe for a white face base. Now I say authentic-ish because there are some

例如鉛粉（ceruse）即是鉛白顏料

ingredients that I can't get hold of today like ceruse which, is white led

所以這玩兒在喬治時代依然有被應用？

So this is still being used at this time in the Georgian era? The ceruse which is

我們知道鉛粉是毒性很強和高腐蝕性的物料

very poisonous, corrosive substance?

對，例如名妓Kitty Fisher

Yep. But women like Kitty Fisher and the

和名門Waldegrave三姐妹都堅持使用鉛粉美白肌膚

Waldegrave sisters still insisted on wearing this white lead, white makeup

所以重申一次，我們今天不是用鉛吧？

So you're not using that today, just to clarify?

不，我們今天絕對沒有用鉛

No, we're definitely not using that today

我現在用的是混合甜杏仁油和二氧化鈦顏料

This is a combination of sweet almond oil and titanium dioxide pigment

這些是今天化妝品都採用的原料 我這裡還加了點蜂蠟

which is used in makeup today and also a little bit of bees wax

妳會如何以喬治時代的方式描畫那黑眼眉呢？

And how are you going to create the dark brows that we so associate with this era?

很有趣地我會用到一顆丁香來畫眼眉

Well interestingly enough, I'm going to be using a clove to coat the eyebrows

妳來聞聞看

Have a smell

哇噢！

Oh wow!

很有風味吧 妳要稍稍對丁香的一側燒至熏黑

They smell amazing. You need to burn the end of a clove

這是聖誕節的氣味呢！

It smells like Christmas!

對啊！然後就可以用來畫眉

I know! And then you can draw them on and they

這是個非常見效的畫眉筆

make really quite surprisingly effective eyebrow pencils

想出這個的人是天才！ 的確

Who'd have thought it!

但那個時代還有些傳言說有人會用上老鼠毛

I know! But there were other rumors around at that time that people were using things like

來製作那粗和濃密的眉毛

mouse fur to create those thick, lush eyebrows

其實有許多關於將老鼠毛用在眼眉的來源 都是諷刺文學

Well a lot of the sources that

諸如強納森·史威夫特（Johnathan Swift） 就在諷刺刊物中寫過老鼠毛眉毛的事

talk about mouse fur being used for eyebrows are satirical sources so people

所以我們根本無法查證那玩兒是不是真的 還是只是為了惡搞

like Jonathan Swift wrote about it, there are a few prints as well, satirical prints

這是個諷刺文學開花的黃金年代

that talk about mouse fur eyebrows which is why we're not really

大眾開始借助印刷的普及而發揮無盡創意

sure if it was actually used or if it's just something that people joked about

例如詹姆斯·吉爾雷（Gillray）和喬治·克魯克香克 （Cruikshank）都是19世紀的具代表性諷刺文學家

We're beginning to enter a real golden age of satire at this time. People start

還有一對諷刺文學夫妻檔Matthew和Mary Darly 留下了許多精彩的諷刺時事漫畫

to flourish in the new print culture like Gillray and Cruikshank especially

他們有很多作品是惡搞喬治時代髮型如何浮誇造作

as we move into the 19th century as well. Around this period there a couple called

所以時尚潮流是一個很容易被盯上的惡搞對象

Matthew and Mary Darly who created amazing satirical prints. A lot of them

眉毛看來很美呢 對啊，這顏色不錯吧？

really focused on hair and how elaborate Georgian hair could become. So fashion

真的很好，太完美了

was a real target for satirists at this time. The eyebrows are looking fantastic

那是時候加一點臉色 而我會用上...現代的安全替代品

I know, isn't it a great colour?

因為那個時代流行使用的朱紅顏料含汞（水銀）

It's really good, it's perfect

汞也是一種有毒物質

Now it's time to add some color to this face and I'm going to use a modern, safe

而那個時代的女性卻不停地用來當胭脂塗在臉上

alternative to a product called vermilion, which is actually red mercury

我很愛這效果，很忠於歷史

Again it's another really toxic ingredient that women were constantly

很艷麗呢，我最愛！

using on their cheeks to get this bright, rosy flush

這形象真的很像我們在法國畫像中看到的

I love this it looks so incredible, it looks so authentic

特別是末代王后瑪麗·安東妮（Marie Antoinette） 在同年代出產的肖像畫

It's so gorgeous, I love it!

她的形象正正是英格蘭女士熱衷模仿的

This is a look that we're really used to

我們在這個年代的時尚潮流可以看到

seeing on French portraits especially portraits of Marie Antoinette for

英格蘭和法國的時尚差異

example from this time. And it was a look for that reason that many women in England

這也反映到同期兩國之間的權力結構的差別

really wanted to emulate. We see this with fashions throughout this era

在法國權力都是集中在一個中央朝廷

as well. There were some differences between English and French fashions

凡爾賽正是上演著權力與財富戲劇的華麗舞台

And it also reflected the differences in the sort of structure of power in each of the

相對來說英格蘭的權力就要分散得多

countries. In France you have this very court-centric power culture where

各地貴族要費心管理自己的地盤

Versailles is the absolute center and its this kind of spectacular

所以他們會花更多時間到戶外散步，更加好動

theater of power and wealth. In England it's a bit more sort of geographically

這個習慣也反映到貴族男士的衣著上

diverse and you have the managing of the country estate being a really important

他們的衣裳物料多採用羊毛 而不是法國貴族愛用的絲綢

facet of aristocratic life. So things like walking, like taking the air, being a

所以雖然造型潮流是非常時尚

bit more active for a lot more important this is something we see especially in

但同時媚外也是有一點爭議的行為

menswear where there's a bit more of a focus on wool rather than French silks

德文郡公爵夫人佐治安娜（Georgiana）的母親 就曾經在信中責備她道：

So this is certainly a really fashionable look but it's also something

「如果妳告訴我妳已經上夠胭脂的話 我是如何的欣慰」

that's slightly seen as improper sometimes as well as sort of very, very French

我很喜歡這句話

Georgiana, the Duchess of Devonshire, her

我見過一副很美麗的肖像畫中

mother wrote to her in opprobrium at one point and said 'how glad I should be if

一班淑女的耳垂也上了點胭脂 （畫像：《Waldegrave三淑女》）

you could tell me you had quite done with rouge'

而口紅呢我用的是正宗的產品

I love that quote

但再混合一點蜂蠟令質感更像唇膏

And there was a really lovely portrait that I've seen where the ladies in the portrait

化妝來到最後一步就是一個喬治時代的終極點綴 那就是美人痣

have coloured their earlobes in with a tiny bit of rouge

不過其實我們有點犯了規 因為美人痣在更早時期已經非常流行

For our lip colour I'm using exactly the same product, but this time it's mixed with beeswax to make it

但我就是無法抗拒

more like a lipstick texture

這聽起來很有趣呢 那麼這些假黑痣是用什麼做的？

Let's finish this makeup off with the ultimate Georgian accessory, which is the

它們的材料可以是絲綢 你也可以用絲絨自製

face patch. Now we're cheating slightly because face patches were actually more

又或者是纖薄的西班牙皮革

in fashion a little bit earlier than the time that we're focusing on, but I couldn't resit it

你可以找到不同形狀的假黑痣

Well this sounds fantastic. What were they made of, these patches?

這些黑痣也有好幾個作用對吧

So they could be made from silk, you could make them from velvet or sometimes you

首先是令面色看起來更白 因為貼在白臉上會產生對比

could make them from fine Spanish leather. They came in a range of

而且美人痣並不是過氣的審美主義

different shapes

可以參考瑪麗蓮·夢露的美人痣

Now these patches served a number of

至今我們都依然會認為這種黑痣象徵美

purposes didn't they. They firstly serve to highlight the whiteness of the skin

但或者更重要的是假痣可以用來處理一些美顏大敵

next to the, you know, dark patch itself and this isn't even an old idea if we

例如天花痘的疤痕或其他斑紋等 通通都可以用假痣貼在上面就可以隱藏

think of someone like Marilyn Monroe for example and her beauty spot. This is

我喜歡這方法！

still something that we associate with beauty to this day really. But also they

真的很方便呢！ 另外按美人痣的位置也可以帶出不同的信息

could hide a multitude of sins: pox marks, scars, moles any kind of

我們從歷史文獻可以得知它們的意義

blemish that you didn't want to have on your face you could hide with a patch

那些人認為不同位置的美人痣代表了不同的意思

I love that idea!

那麼我在這個位置貼的美人痣...是什麼意思呢？

It's just absolutely so handy! There are also a number of secret languages of

如果是妳的嘴角

patches that we can read about in different accounts from this time as well

那麼以我所閱讀過的文獻就認為是

People basically said that wherever you wore it on your face meant

「嬌媚」或「接吻」，都是些愛情信息

something different

然後我在這裡貼另外一塊 這個位置又代表什麼呢？

So I've got one here, what does that mean?

眼角的痣就是「熱情」，或甚至是「殺意」

So if you had a patch near your mouth the accounts that I've seen suggest that it meant sort of

所以是頗具威脅性的痣

coquettishness or kissing, something quite cheeky basically

所以她是個蛇蠍女郎！

And I'm gonna put one here, what does that mean?

但它們又可以附帶政治意思

So near the eye could mean passion or could even mean killing, so quite a

1711年發行的「Spectator」日刊就發表過

dangerous little number that one

支持左派/自由派的女人會在臉的右邊貼痣

She's a dangerous lady!

相反地右派/建制派會在貼在左邊臉

But they could also have political meanings as well

那麼臉部的化妝就完成了

There was a report in The Spectator in 1711 that said women of a Whig

但如果沒有適當的髮型配合 就不配為喬治時代的女人

persuasion would wear patches on the right hand side where as Tories would

而這將會是頗為浩大而費時的工程

wear them on the left.

好吧當妳理髮的同時

And that's everything that we're going to do on the face,

我就去探索更多肯伍德府的事蹟

but a Georgian lady is nothing without her hair and that is a big

我們現在身處的是非常莊嚴的音樂房 而肯伍德府整體建築就非常華麗

affair, it's going to take me some time

妳可以解說一下它的歷史嗎？

Ok well while you do that I'm going to

好的，這莊園最初建於17世紀初

go and find out more about Kenwood

但現在我們所見的大宅卻是體現

We're in this majestic Music Room and the whole of Kenwood is so beautiful

1754年以4千英鎊買下這裡的威廉·穆雷的品味

can you tell me a bit about the history?

4千英鎊就算考慮到通脹都算是撿了便宜貨呢！

Yes the first house is built here in the

這價錢的確挺物超所值

early 17th century but the house we see today largely reflects the taste of

但注意當期時這裡須要進行大修葺和翻新

William Murray who purchased Kenwood for £4,000 in 1754

所以穆雷僱用了蘇格蘭籍新古典主義建築師Robert Adam

£4,000, pounds that sounds like a bargain to me!

和他的兄弟James來修葺肯伍德

It was a reasonable amount

所以這裡就被改造成今天所見的新古典主義大宅

but you had to make a lot of changes to the property so he employed the Scottish

對極，而在1790年代他又建了新翼

neoclassical architect Robert Adam and his brother James to completely

而我們現在身處的房間就是屬於新翼範圍

transform Kenwood

那麼18世紀末莊園外是個怎樣的世界呢？

And so that turned it into the sort of neoclassical mansion that we know it as today?

對一些人民來說多得大規模生產那是個前程似錦的年代

It did, and in the 1790s wings were added to the

但隨著工業化而來的是急速人口膨脹

building so the room that we stand in now is actually one in one of those wings

城市變得擁擠和衛生環境越來越惡劣

And so what was happening outside these walls in the late 18th century?

但就是依賴人口支持了戲劇業、花園和零售業的發展

For some people it was a period of great prosperity with the boom in

這裡的前主人威廉·穆雷是個大法官

manufacturing but with this increase in industry and also with the rise in

而他那時候作出過些很重要的司法裁決呢

population cities could become very overcrowded and unsanitary. But there

可以訴說一下他的故事嗎？

were also places a great spectacle, so it was great period for the

那時候他是英格蘭中最有力的首席大法官

theatre, for pleasure gardens and also for shopping

在1772年他負責過一單為後世人樂道的重要案件

William Murray, he was a judge and he made quite an important ruling when he was Lord Chief Justice

那就是James Somerset的訴訟案 原訴人Somerset是非洲裔的奴隸

Can you tell me about that?

他遭到他的奴隸主囚禁 並將要販賣到牙買加成為農地勞工

He was the most powerful judge in England as Lord Chief Justice

但穆雷裁定奴隸主不能隨意將奴隸送出英格蘭

and in 1772 he had a particularly significant case and that

他甚至在判詞中形容奴隸制度是可惡的（odious）

was the case of James Somerset. Somerset was a former slave who had been

所以那是漫長的解放奴隸過程中的一小步

imprisoned by his once master and he was about to be sent to Jamaica in order

威廉·穆雷在這裡與他的兩位侄女同住呢

to be sold. But Murray ruled that no slaver could forcibly send a slave out

而其中一人是帶有非洲裔血統的Dido Elizabeth Belle 我很想聽聽更多關於她的故事

of England and in his summing up he described slavery as 'odious' so that was

Dido在1766年來到肯伍德安居

just very much one small step in a much longer journey towards the abolition of slavery

她是海軍少將John Lindsay 與一位非洲女性Maria belle的私生女

William Murray lived here with two nieces as well didn't he

雖然我們無法查證母親是否位奴隸 但這個可能性相當高

One of which, Dido Elizabeth Belle, I'm really keen to hear more about

父親Lindsay是穆雷的外甥 他作為皇家海軍一員長期駐守加勒比海

Dido came to live here at Kenwood in about 1766 and she was the illegitimate daughter of

而Dido作為一名私生女和混血兒

John Lindsay and an African woman, Maria Belle, who was possibly a slave

在18世紀英格蘭社會當然會遇上許多挑戰

although we don't have the evidence to necessarily prove that, but Lindsay, who

但我們知道她被帶到這肯伍德 當作為一位淑女來培育

was Lord Mansfield's nephew, had been stationed in the Caribbean and was

她和她的表姐Elizabeth Murray非常要好 她獲得文學教育和演奏音樂

an officer of the Royal Navy. Now Dido as both illegitimate and also

她又會觀察乳牛作業 那時當時的貴族淑女流行的消閒活動

mixed-race would have faced many challenges in 18th century English

這間房展示了許多那個年代的女性肖像呢

society. But we do know that she was brought up here at Kenwood as a lady. She

我想知道這些精緻畫作背後的故事

was a companion to her cousin; she was taught to read, write and play music and

這些畫作原本是Edward Guinness的收藏品的一部分 他在1925年買下了這大宅

she also supervised the dairy which was a popular pastime for ladies in that period

在他1927年去世後他將這大宅 和所有藝術收藏都捐獻給國家

Now this room is filled with many examples of other other women from this

而這畫作中的女士特別面善呢

period. Tell me about the exquisite works of art that we're seeing here

可以告訴我那背後的故事嗎？

These paintings are part of an outstanding collection that was formed by Edward

好的，那是Caroline Alicia Fleming 她在1776年下嫁John Brisco

Cecil Guinness, 1st Earl of Iveagh, and then was given to the nation along with the