Name: 【TED】Matthew Childs 從攀岩中學到的九個人生課題 (Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing)
Uploaded: 2013-03-16T20:59:07.000Z
Duration: 4 min 49 s

程度副詞

It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules

這其實很簡單。大概有九個規則

that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

是我從 35 年的攀岩經驗中所發掘出來的。

But really, truly -- often you think about

但是事實上，的確 — 早在你的身體放棄前，

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

然後你會想到某些十分獨特的解決方案。

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

這是一個往泰倫恩草地的徒手自由攀登地點，

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

自由攀登沒有任何明確的支撐施力的地方。

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

你能得到最大支撐的時候就是當你將你的手或腳

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

然後從那一刻開始，基本上你已經開始在下滑了。

所以保持慣性動量是好的。別停！

黃金峽谷中一個叫做裸稜的攀岩地點。

這個攀岩者只剩最後一步就登頂了。

其實我就是在跟他差不多的地方失敗的。

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

在他下面等著他的是千呎深的懸崖。

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

但其實他早已經通過了那些困難的關卡。

你非常認真地盤算計畫著，像是

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

「我要如何通過最難的關卡？我要如何通過最難的關卡？」

眼看你已經要成功了。一切是如此輕而易舉。

And you're completely flamed out.  Don't do it.

而你卻也早已筋疲力竭了。別這樣做。

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

But you also can't forget that each individual move

但是你也不能忘記你必須留有餘力

來完成你計畫中的每一個步驟。

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

就在沛瑞特穹頂 ，位於優勝美地高地上。

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

關於這次攀爬有趣的地方是，它並不太難。

但是如果你是此次攀岩的領隊，

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

在最困難的地方，要有墜落 100 呎至

You don't want to stop in the middle like

你不會希望像柯勒律治（英國詩人）筆下的忽必烈可汗

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

還能使他們的身體保持某些姿態讓自己能夠

待他們重整、冷靜，重拾專注力後，

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

這還是在加州，一個叫做尼得市的地方。

Fear really sucks because what it means is

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

你沒有專心在你正在做的事上。

all your concentration and thought processes

One of the things in climbing is, most people

sort of take it straight on.  And they follow the most obvious solution.

都是直來直往的。而且他們會採取最簡單的方法。

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

大多數的你們可能在電影「第三類接觸」中看過它。

當岩縫攀爬者遇到它的典型反應

would put their hands in and their toes in

就是將手和腳趾插入岩石縫隙中，

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

某些縫細小到你甚至不能將你的腳趾差入其間

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

所以當你遇到這種縫隙，你只能利用你的指尖

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

第八條：力量不一定等於成功。

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

在室內岩場教學，並做些像這樣的工作，

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

就是，男性們通常會做引體向上。

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

初學的男士們，他們會一股腦地，猛力向上爬，

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

通常他們能做 15 下引體向上，對吧？

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

她們想著如何能讓重量傳遞到腳上支撐

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

這是很自然的想法。你的腿整天背負著你的重量。

因為你全身最強壯的肌肉就在這。

我曾經沒有做好失手摔落時的計畫，

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

因此跌落了 40 呎並且摔斷了一根肋骨。

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

當你知道跌落是不可避免的時候，

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

因為這是讓你避免受傷的關鍵 —

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

那麼就跌落在你可以停止繼續下跌的地方。