Name: 穿越歷史的時尚第 5 集 - 斯圖亞特王朝 (Fashion Through History: Episode 5 – The Stuarts)
Uploaded: 2025-08-12T18:00:12.000Z
Duration: 11 min 40 s

Hello, and welcome to Fashion Through History, brought to you by English Heritage.

大家好，歡迎收看由英國遺產協會為您帶來的《歷史中的時尚》。

I am Dr. Serena Dyer, a fashion historian, and I've come here to Boscobel House and the Royal Oak in Shropshire.

我是時尚史學家塞雷娜-戴爾博士，我來到了位於什羅普郡的博斯科伯爾宅邸和皇家橡樹莊園。

未來進行式

Today we're going to be exploring the impact of the Civil War and the restoration of the monarchy in 1660 on fashion, and so of course our fashion icon for the day is King Charles II.

今天，我們將探討內戰和 1660 年君主復辟對時尚的影響，是以我們今天的時尚偶像當然是國王查理二世。

But first, we're going to meet English Heritage curator Cameron Moffat, who's going to tell us more about Charles II.

但首先，我們將見到英國遺產館館長卡梅倫-莫法特（Cameron Moffat），他將向我們詳細介紹查理二世。

Cameron, what was the connection between Charles and Boscobel?

卡梅倫，查爾斯和博斯科伯爾之間有什麼聯繫？

In 1642, when Charles was only 12, the English Civil War started, which was all to do with his father, Charles I.

1642 年，查爾斯年僅 12 歲，英國內戰爆發，而這一切都與他的父親查爾斯一世有關。

His father was taken to court and tried for treason against the state and was executed.

他的父親被送上法庭，以叛國罪受審並被處決。

Charles and his mother were in exile on the continent.

查爾斯和他的母親流亡到了歐洲大陸。

He and a number of troops tried to regain the throne, but it all went very badly wrong at the Battle of Worcester in September 1651.

他和一些部隊試圖奪回王位，但在 1651 年 9 月的伍斯特戰役中，一切都變得非常糟糕。

Charles peeled away from the troops with a number of close supporters, and they fled across the countryside.

查爾斯帶著幾名親密的支持者脫離了部隊，他們逃到了鄉間。

Boscobel House is one of the houses that gave him shelter.

博斯科伯爾宅就是為他提供庇護的房屋之一。

He spent a day hiding in a very large oak tree outside.

他在外面一棵很大的橡樹上躲了一天。

Eventually, he escaped, went back to the continent, and spent another nine years in exile.

最終，他逃了出來，回到大陸，又度過了九年的流亡生活。

And when Charles was here at Boscobel, the fashions that he would have been wearing were very different from those extravagant fashions that he would have worn as king.

當查爾斯在博斯科貝爾時，他所穿的時裝與他作為國王時的奢華時裝大相徑庭。

So let's see what kinds of things soldiers at the Battle of Worcester would have been wearing.

那麼，讓我們來看看伍斯特戰役中的阿兵哥會穿什麼樣的衣服。

我們的模特託比將為您提供幫助。

只是不完全確定我站在哪一邊。

我是在為國王還是為議會而戰？

Well, actually, that was a very difficult thing to tell on most 17th century battlefields.

實際上，在大多數 17 世紀的戰場上，這一點很難說清楚。

Telling friend from foe was almost impossible because they didn't have uniforms like we do today.

分辨敵友幾乎是不可能的，因為他們沒有像今天這樣的制服。

But in 1645, the parliamentarians introduced the new model army.

但在 1645 年，議員們推出了新式軍隊。

And the main element that was issued to foot soldiers in the new model army was the red jacket.

而新式軍隊中發給步兵的主要裝備就是紅色外套。

Now, there's no particularly practical reason why red was chosen, other than that it was the cheapest dye colour.

現在看來，選擇紅色並沒有什麼特別實際的原因，只是因為它是最便宜的染料顏色。

So you have your coat and you have your breeches, which are both made from wool.

你有大衣和馬褲，都是羊毛製成的。

They would have been really good at regulating body temperature.

Maybe not so good at deflecting bullets and swords.

The breeches, there's loads of room to be able to bend around.

Let's get you out of this and into something a bit more extravagant and see what Charles would have worn once he was restored to the monarchy.

讓我們來看看查爾斯恢復君主制後會穿什麼。

So Cameron, what do we know about Charles' life at court after the restoration?

那麼卡梅倫，我們對復辟後查爾斯的宮廷生活了解多少呢？

His court was full of what they called libertines.

他的宮廷裡充滿了所謂的放蕩不羈者。

There was an awful lot of gambling and drinking and promiscuous behaviour going on.

當時有很多賭博、酗酒和濫交行為。

So things were a lot more extravagant and opulent at Charles' court.

是以，在查爾斯的宮廷裡，一切都變得更加奢侈和富麗堂皇。

So let's see what you would have worn as king.

讓我們看看你作為國王會穿什麼。

So you're already dressed in your undergarments for this.

So we've got your shirt, which would have been made out of linen.

You've also, of course, got your breeches and your stockings.

But what Charles really brought about in Fashion Change is the introduction of the three-piece suit.

但查爾斯在《時尚變革》中真正帶來的是三件套西裝的問世。

Now this is such a ubiquitous part of menswear today, but we really can credit that to Charles.

如今，這已成為男裝中無處不在的一部分，但我們真的要把這歸功於查爾斯。

The big difference here was the waistcoat or vest.

So that's the next part of your outfit that we're going to put on you.

接下來，我們要給你穿上這套衣服。

So the waistcoat was the most important new part of this three-piece suit.

是以，馬甲是這件三件套西裝最重要的新部件。

Charles decreed in 1666 that this would be a new fashion at court.

查爾斯在 1666 年下令，這將成為宮廷的新時尚。

Now Samuel Pepys, the famous biographer, originally was quite dubious about this in his diary.

著名傳記作家塞繆爾-佩皮斯（Samuel Pepys）最初在日記中對此頗有微詞。

But less than a week later, he wrote that everybody at court was suddenly wearing waistcoats.

但不到一週後，他寫道，宮廷裡的每個人突然都穿上了馬甲。

And funnily enough, Pepys himself then went to his tailor and ordered his own.

有趣的是，佩皮斯自己也去裁縫店訂做了自己的衣服。

Now we know that Charles generally preferred plain black velvet waistcoats, but he also would have had fancy French-style waistcoats with lace and buttons and embroidery, like the beautiful example you're wearing today, Toby.

現在我們知道，查爾斯一般喜歡純黑色天鵝絨馬甲，但他也會有花哨的法式馬甲，上面有蕾絲、鈕釦和刺繡，就像託比你今天穿的這件一樣漂亮。

So this was a sash that you would wear across the body and that you would carry your sword through.

是以，這是一條橫穿身體的腰帶，你可以把劍穿在腰帶上。

Now this adds a lovely pop of colour to the outfit.

現在，這又為服裝增添了一抹可愛的色彩。

Because everything is such a long line, it really gives that focal point to the waist.

因為每件衣服都是長長的一條線，所以腰部就成了焦點。

So coats have been part of menswear for a long time.

是以，大衣成為男裝的一部分由來已久。

Under Charles, they become known as the justicor.

在查爾斯的統治下，他們被稱為正義者。

They're again very, very long line and they're often decorated with hundreds of buttons and buttonholes.

它們的線條又非常非常長，通常裝飾有數百個鈕釦和釦眼。

And that's really where we can see the labour and the expense coming through in these garments.

從這些服裝中，我們確實可以看到勞動力和成本的影子。

While Charles might have used this practically during the Civil War, now this is really a fashion statement.

在南北戰爭期間，查爾斯可能會使用這種方式，但現在這確實是一種時尚。

Now a gentleman isn't fully dressed without his wig.

現在，沒有假髮，紳士就不算穿戴整齊。

We have a beautiful curly peruque or periwig.

我們有美麗的捲髮 peruque 或 periwig。

And these lustrous locks were really the finishing touch for any elite man's outfit.

而這些光澤亮麗的髮絲，對於任何精英男士的著裝來說，都是畫龍點睛之筆。

And then finally, of course, the finishing touch, your hat.

最後，當然是點睛之筆--你的帽子。

And now that you don't have to hide from the roundheads, maybe now is the best time to go and explore the grounds at Boscobel.

現在你不必再躲避圓頭黨了，也許現在是去探索博斯科貝爾的最佳時機。

So Charles II had a huge influence on men's fashion, but women's fashion under the Restoration was changing too.

是以，查爾斯二世對男性時尚產生了巨大影響，但復辟時期的女性時尚也在發生變化。

Cameron, can you tell us a little bit more about life for women in Charles II's court?

卡梅倫，您能給我們介紹一下查理二世宮廷中的女性生活嗎？

Charles pulled together a court full of glamorous, interesting, clever people.

查爾斯組建了一個充滿魅力、有趣、聰明的宮廷。

And the women were expected to dress fantastically, and indeed they did.

人們希望女人們穿得美輪美奐，而她們也確實做到了。

And many of the most fantastically dressed were his mistresses, like Barbara Villiers.

許多衣著華麗的人都是他的情婦，比如芭芭拉-維利爾斯。

The Restoration saw the arrival of the Mantua maker, a new maker of women's wear, the equivalent of a dressmaker.

復辟時期出現了曼圖亞女裝製作師，這是一種新的女裝製作師，相當於裁縫。

And that was because of our third look, the Mantua.

這是因為我們的第三個造型--曼圖亞（Mantua）。

And here to help us, we have the lovely Kate.

在這裡，我們有可愛的凱特來幫助我們。

So at the beginning of Charles II's reign, fashions were really, really stiff-bodied and really constructed to fit the body.

是以，在查理二世統治初期，時裝都是非常非常硬朗的，非常貼合身體。

但這種情況在 16 世紀 70 年代發生了真正的變化。

We see the introduction of the Mantua, which is essentially a T-shaped, loose-fitting gown.

我們看到了曼圖亞（Mantua）的問世，它本質上是一種 T 型寬鬆長袍。

And this means that suddenly, tailors who'd been responsible for making those close-fitting, structured garments, their skills weren't needed to make the Mantua.

這意味著，那些負責製作貼身結構服裝的裁縫們突然不需要他們的技能來製作曼圖亞服裝了。

So women who had been seamstresses making other T-shaped gowns, like shifts and smocks and shirts, took over the making of this new fashionable garment.

是以，那些曾經是製作其他 T 形長袍（如襯衫、短袖衫和襯衣）的女裁縫接手了這種新時尚服裝的製作。

And soon there were lots of variations and lots of exciting ways that women were wearing this new style of gown.

很快，這種新式禮服就有了很多變化，婦女們也有了很多令人興奮的穿法。

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穿越歷史的時尚第 5 集 - 斯圖亞特王朝 (Fashion Through History: Episode 5 – The Stuarts)

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