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The main focus for new Vegans should always be eliminating meat, dairy and eggs
剛轉純素的人,首要焦點應全放在除去肉蛋奶
It is not always practical or financially possible to replace
替換掉所有過去購買的動物製品
every non- Vegan product that has already been purchased
有時並不實際,經濟上可能也不允許
The damage has already been done once the product is bought
畢竟購買當下,傷害已經造成
But once you deeply connect with Veganism,
不過你若深深認同純素主義
it often becomes uncomfortable to wear clothing made from animals
穿戴動物製成的服飾往往會變得不太自在
And as clothing becomes old and worn out,
而這些服飾一旦被穿壞
you have a responsibility to replace all products with more ethical ones
你便有責任替換掉它們,選購更人道的產品
The main industries which use animals for clothing are the
用動物製成服飾的主要幾個產業分別為:
fur, leather, wool, down and silk industries
皮草、皮革、羊毛、羽絨和蠶絲業
Most animals used for fur live and die on fur farms
作為皮草用的動物一輩子幾乎都被關在養殖場
Animals like mink, rabbits and foxes are kept in small cages
這些動物包含水貂、兔子和狐狸,全被囚禁在窄小的籠內
which cause a lot of physical and emotional stress
令牠們身心承受極大的壓力
They're fed meat byproducts unfit for human consumption
牠們被餵食不適合給人吃的碎肉渣
And they're killed in ways which protect their fur
而宰殺牠們的方式因為不得損傷至其毛皮
Some methods like neck breaking, poisoning and anal electricution are common
於是做法如扭斷脖子、毒害和電擊肛門,都極普遍
While fur clothing is becoming less fashionable,
皮草大衣雖逐漸退流行
fur trim coats and boots are still popular
有皮草裝飾的外套和靴子仍大行其道
Although finding faux fur should be simple,
雖然要找到人造皮草本應不難
it is often cheaper to produce real fur than faux fur
但礙於真皮草的生產成本往往更低
So some companies lie about their materials
所以有些商家會謊報材質
meaning a product labelled as fake fur could still be made from an animal
也就是說,標示為人造皮草的商品,恐怕還是使用動物製成的
The easiest way to avoid fur is to buy clothing without any kind of fur or faux fur
避免買到真皮草最簡單的方式,就是選購完全不含皮草—包含人造皮草—的服飾
But if you do want to buy something,
不過你要是真的想買
you can look on the Humane Society's list of certified faux fur companies
可以查詢人道協會 (Humane Society) 認證的人造皮草廠商清單
And if you pull the hair back, you will see either a skin or fabric backing
當你把毛掀開,就能看到底層來分辨是否為真皮
If you want to be certain about it once you've purchased it,
若想更加確定,可在購買後
cut a few pieces of hair off and burn it
剪下幾根毛來燃燒
If it's real, it's smell like burnt human hair
若是真毛,味道會類似在焚燒人的毛髮
If it's fake, it'll smell of plastic
而假毛則會產生塑膠味
If you find that it is real,
如果你發現是真毛
you can take it back to the shop where you purchased it
可以拿回原店家退貨
The fur industry has become a popular target for activists to critisise
皮草業已成了越來越多動保人士批評的對象
”Shame on you for supporting the fur industry!”
「支持皮草很無恥」
But the leather industry's just as cruel
然而皮革業同樣殘忍
People think that leather is merely a byproduct of the beef industry
人們以為皮革只是牛肉業的副產品
but there is such a demand for leather that the animals are killed specifically for their skin
實際上皮革的需求量不小,所以有動物專被殺來供應皮革
Most leather comes from India cows
多數皮革源自印度牛
To transport them to a place where they can be legally murdered,
為了將牛送至可合法宰殺的地區
cows are shoed and roped
牛被釘上鐵蹄、套上繩索
then they're forced to walk through the heat and dust without food or water
在沒有水及食物的情況下被迫在酷熱沙塵下行走
Many animals collapse from the stress of this
許多牛承受不住而崩潰倒下
When they become weak ans slow, their tails are repeatedly pinched and broken
當牠們虛弱地越走越慢時,尾巴會被反覆折捏至骨折
in a sick attempt to get them moving
迫使牠們繼續移動
Handlers are in such a hurry that they use nose ropes and twist their necks and tails
搬運工為了加速,他們會為牛隻穿上鼻繩,強拉牠們的脖子和尾巴
They also use chili peppers and tobacco to keep the animals moving
並使用辣椒和菸草逼牠們繼續行走
They rub the pepper directly in their eyes in order to get the animal back on their feet
工人會把辣椒揉擦進牛隻的眼睛裡,刺激牠們站起前進
The men that load them into the trucks are often forceful and rough
將牠們推上卡車的人通常很粗暴
The new experience of travelling combined with
在從未體驗過的運送過程
a lack of food and water leads to severe nausea
又加上缺法水及食物,導致牠們嚴重暈車
Half of the animals are already dead before they arrive at the slaughterhouse
有一半的牛抵達屠宰場前就已死亡
They're generally killed through hacking and sawing with a dull blade and are usually killed in full view of each other
一般情況下,牠們會在同伴面前被鈍刀砍鋸而死
Leather can be sourced from many different animals including
皮革可源自許多不同的動物
alligator, sheep, pigs and deer
包含鱷魚、羊、豬以及鹿
And there are many different names for different types of leather
不同種類的皮革也有不同的名字
Like buckskin, suede and shell cordovan
如 buckskin (鹿皮)、麂皮、shell cordovan (馬革)
In spite of the incredible harm the leather industry causes,
儘管皮革業對動物造成巨大的傷害
real leather has become a symbol of quality
真皮儼然成了高級品的代名詞
So clothing made from Vegan materials are often coated with tiny amounts of cow skin
即使服飾的主要成分非真皮,也常以少許的牛皮來裝飾
so that they can be labelled as real leather to increase sales in the market price
如此商品就能標示為真皮,市價就提高了
Leather is probably the most common non- Vegan material
皮革大概是最普遍的動物性材質
found in all kinds of clothing like bags, shoes, belts, jackets and gloves
存在於各種服飾中,如包包、鞋子、皮帶、夾克和手套
Since leather is more expensive than syntehtical alternatives,
由於真皮比合成皮昂貴
products are usually labelled as real leather
真皮製品一般都會加以標示
which is easy to spot and avoid
所以很容易發現、避開
Cheap products like shoes, bags and wallets are often
低價位的皮鞋、皮包和皮夾通常
made from pleather which is plastic leather
由 PU 皮—一種塑料皮革—所製成
There are also fake leather products made from PVC and
其他仿皮產品則除了使用 PVC
high quality products made from materials like cork, kelp and microfibre
更有其他用的是高級的材質如軟木、海藻和超細纖維
There seems to be a myth that all faux eather products are inferioir to cow skin
大家似乎有「合成皮比牛皮不耐用」的迷思
While cheap, poorly produced faux leather does break down quicker
廉價又粗製濫造的合成皮製品的確較容易損壞
due to cheaper subtitute ingredients being used in the manifacturing process
那是因為生產過程使用的替代材料較為低廉
High quality leather alternatives are strong and durable and have a long lifespan
然而高級的合成皮強韌、耐用、使用壽命長
Most clothing will have a clrear label
大部分服飾都會清楚標示
For shoes, look on the inside of the heel or the underside of the tongue
以鞋子來說,可以查看鞋跟內側或鞋舌下方
There should be a stamp somewhere saying smoething like:
應該在某處會印有某些資訊
”Leather upper” or ” All man made materials”
像是「真皮鞋面」或「全手工製」
Although sometimes there are just stickers with symbols
不過有時只有印著符號的標籤貼紙
If tit's made of made of textile, man made materials or other materials,
若標示為「織物」、「人造材質」或「其他材質」
they won't contain leather
那就不含皮革
But don't be afraid to email companies or ask in shops
也可勇於寫信問製造商,或向店家確認
Most people think that wool is just like a haircut for sheep
大多數人以為羊毛只是為羊剃毛
so it can't be unethical
沒有道德疑慮
But just like the fur and leather industries, the wool industry is driven by profit
但如同皮草與皮革業,羊毛業是以利益為導向的
So the most efficient methods will always be used
自然所有手段只求最大產值
Sheep in the wool industry have been genetically modified to
而此產業使用的羊,經培育後
produce far more wool than they actually need
長出的毛量已遠超過其所需
This is a lot like breaking someone's leg and then giving them a wheelchair
這就好像先打斷一個人的腿,再給他一張輪椅
and expecting praise
還期待他會感謝你一樣
And regularly shearing causes nicks and cuts
頻繁的剃毛造成羊群割傷
And in order to prevent the excess attraction of flies and a condition called ”flystrike”,
此外,為了防止引來過多蒼蠅感染了羊群
the wool industry practicecs mulesing
業者會執行「割皮防蠅法」
This is a cruel procedure in which part of a sheep's flesh is cut off
做法極其殘忍,必須切除羊的臀部
of his or her hindquarters without anesthesia
一部分的肉,且不施用麻醉藥
When sheep get older, they stop producing as much wool and
而年紀大的羊一旦產量不足
they're sent off to slaughter as they're no longer seen as profitable
即被送宰,因為牠們被視為賠錢貨
Just like leather, wool is a very common material
如同皮革,羊毛是極普遍的材質
which is found in things like coats, jumpers, socks and hats
用來製作成外套、毛衣、襪子和毛線帽
You can buy alternative clothing using materials like rayon, cotton,
你能選購用其他替代材質做的服飾,如嫘縈、棉花、
hemp, linen and bamboo as well as synthetics like
大麻纖維、亞麻和竹子,或合成纖維
acrylic, nylon and microfibre
如丙烯酸、尼龍和超細纖維
Just make sure to check the label and avoid clothing containing any types of wool
記得確認上頭的標籤,避免購入的服飾含有任何種類的羊毛
The down industry plucks feathers from geese and ducks
羽絨業會拔除鴨與鵝的羽毛
which causes considerable pain and distress
令牠們痛不欲生
While their feathers are being torn out, their skin is often torn open
隨著羽毛被拔下,牠們的皮膚往往被撕裂開
because the workers are always instructed to be as quick as possible
全因工人被吩咐要盡快完成作業
Buying down also supports the foie gras industry
購買羽絨同時會助長鵝肝產業
This produces profit by selling the feathers of the force fed ducks and geese
業者販售被強灌食物的鴨與鵝的羽毛,由此獲利
Down feathers are found in coats, jackets and other insulated products
羽絨被用來製作外套、夾克和其他隔熱產品
But fortunately there are plenty of coats made of materials like cotton and polyester
幸運地是,也有很多外套使用的材質是棉花和聚酯纖維
with synthetic insulation like primaloft and thinsulate
搭配人造的隔熱材質如 primaloft 和 thinsulate
So look on the label or item description for down for words like duck and goose
所以,查看標籤或商品描述是否有羽絨或鴨鵝等字眼
And then look for alternative products
若有則尋找替代品
In the silk industry billions of potentially sentient silkworms are
蠶絲業每年將數百萬隻有潛在感知能力的蠶
steamed or gassed alive in their cocoons every year
活活蒸死或毒死在繭裡
so that we can use their silk to make clothing
好讓我們用牠們的絲做成服飾
Silk is found in clothing like dresses, scarves and underwear
蠶絲做成的服飾包含禮服、圍巾和內衣
But there are plenty of alternatives made from materials
現在已有許多替代材質
like rayon, nylon, milkweed seed pod fibres,
包含嫘縈、尼龍、milkweed seed pod fibres (馬利筋種子莢纖維)、
tencel, silk- cotton tree filaments,
天絲棉、木棉樹纖維、
ceiba tree filaments, polyester and lyocell
吉貝纖維、聚酯纖維和萊賽爾纖維
Also avoid the other silk containing materials which are listed below
其他含有蠶絲的材質可一同避開,我會在下方列出
Most everyday clothing items are made from materials like polyester,
我們每天穿的服飾幾乎都由聚酯纖維、
cotton and acrylic and are Vegan
棉花和丙烯酸所製成,都屬純素
For example, most t- shirts and trousers are made of cotton
舉例來說,大部分的 T 恤和長褲使用的是棉花
and a lot jumpers and hoodies are made from acrylic or polyester and cotton
多數的毛衣和連帽衫則使用聚酯纖維、丙烯酸和棉花
Although it might seem like an extra effort checking labels initially,
雖然一開始似乎要費點心思確認標籤
you'll quickly get to know which products and materials are and aren't Vegan
但你很快就會熟悉什麼樣的產品或材質屬於純素
So eventually it'll be effortless
最後就會變得輕而易舉
But for some products like shoes and belts you might need to look online
但對於某些產品,像皮鞋或皮帶,可能還是得上網查詢
It's not widely known but a lot of shoes made from Vegan materials
很多人不知道,許多純素皮鞋
do contain animal based glues
仍含有動物膠
By emailing a company, you might be able to find out
寄 email 問廠商或許能得到解答
but in many cases not even the companies know what the glues are made of
但情況通常是,連廠商都不清楚膠的成分
The good news is that synthetic glues are now replacing animal based glues
好消息是,人造膠正逐漸取代動物膠
So don't let this discourage you
所以,不要因此而氣餒
Just always do the best you can
凡事盡力即可
In the booklet below I've included link to
下方小手冊裡頭,我有列出
all the best online stores for buying Vegan shoes and clothing
所有能買到純素服飾必逛的網路商店
It's important to mention that Vegans should always strive to
很重要的一點是,純素者應永遠致力於
buy the most ethical and environmentally sustainable clothing possible
購買最不傷害動物又最環保永續的服飾
We're all accustomed to buying extremely cheap yet unethical products
然而我們已習慣購買廉價卻不道德的商品
So buying Vegan, organic and fairtrade clothing can seem too expensive for most people
要買純素、有機和公平貿易的服飾,對多數人來說似乎負擔不起
The best way to overcome this is by buying secondhand Vegan clothing from charity shops
最好的解決方式是去慈善商店買二手純素服飾
And it's also a good idea to become a minimalist
另一個不錯的主意是過極簡生活
and only buy clothing that you really need
只買真的有必要的服飾
This is the most ethical and environmentally sustainable way to live
這是最道德與環保的生活方式
Some Vegans believe that second hand leather or wool products are acceptable to purchase
有些純素者可接受購買二手的皮革與羊毛產品
While they do technically cause no extra harm to animals
雖然這不會對動物造成多餘的實質傷害
they do help promote the idea that animals should be commodified
但會助長「動物商品化」的概念
If you're not okay with wearing shoes made from abused and killed human skin,
如果你不想穿由受虐後又被殺去的人類所做的皮鞋
you shouldn't be wearing cow skin shoes either
那你也不該穿牛皮的鞋子
Just as with Vegan cometics,
純素服飾就如同純素彩妝
keep in my mind that many new Vegans choose to use up
記得,許多剛轉純素的人選擇
and wear out all non- Vegan products
把原本的產品使用完畢
It's okay to do this
這是沒問題的
Don't let arrogant people try to call you out for being inconsistent
若有自大的傢伙批評你行為不一致
Remind them that Veganism is about eliminating animal products
提醒他們純素主義是在可行範圍內
as far as possible and practicable
盡可能排除動物產品
Wearing out old clothing doesn't undermine your ethics
把衣服物盡其用並沒有牴觸你的道德觀
As always, check out the booklet below which contains more
跟以往一樣,去看看下方的小手冊,裡面有更多
detailed information and links to Vegan friendly shops
詳細資訊和純素友善的店家連結
I also have complete guides to Vegan food and Vegan cosmetics
我另外還有純素飲食和純素彩妝的全攻略
So check those out too
也去看看吧
And if you want to help support me in creating
如果你想協助支持我建立這些有用的資訊
helpful resources like this one, which take weeks to make,
像這個花了我好幾個禮拜完成的「純素服飾全攻略」
please visit my Pateron page and consider donating
請造訪我的 Pateron 網站並考慮資助我
And if you need help progressing to a Vegan lifestyle,
而如果你正在轉純素,需要幫助
email me or add me on Skype
寫信給我,或加我 Skype
Thank you for watching
感謝觀賞