Name: 這道牛肉麵是臺灣最好的深夜美食 | Street Eats | Bon Appétit (This Beef Noodle Soup Is the Best Late Night Dish in Taiwan | Street Eats | Bon Appétit)
Uploaded: 2025-01-29T15:55:54.000Z
Duration: 12 min 28 s

I'm here with Chef Eric, Taiwanese chef authority, general person to hang out with when the night goes on.

我和臺灣廚師權威埃裡克大廚在一起，他是夜幕降臨時的常客。

We're here at Nirumen Jitang, famous, proper Taiwanese beef noodle soup place.

我們來到了著名的正宗臺灣牛肉麵館--涅門濟棠。

Beef noodle soup is the dish in Taiwan, and in my opinion, it's even better late night.

牛肉湯麵是臺灣的特色美食，在我看來，深夜裡的牛肉湯麵更美味。

These guys are busy all night, and I heard chef is putting on a new batch of soup.

這些傢伙整晚都在忙，我聽說大廚正在做新的湯。

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you.

不，不，不，我和我自己一樣忙。

Yeah, I'm telling you, I really, really, really like your place.

是啊，我告訴你，我真的，真的，真的很喜歡你的地方。

I come at least three times a week when I come to Taiwan.

我來臺灣時，每週至少來三次。

First thing that chef is doing is prepping the base liquid of his broth.

廚師要做的第一件事就是準備肉湯的基液。

That liquid is chicken, beef bone, and a little bit of offal, which is not, as I understand it, extremely traditional.

這些液體是雞肉、牛骨和一點內臟，據我所知，這並不是非常傳統的做法。

But it's all going to impart flavor in a clean, sweet way.

但這一切都將以一種乾淨、甜美的方式傳遞味道。

The goal here is sweetness and sort of delicacy, balanced with a thickened texture that comes from the emulsified fat with water.

它的目標是甜美和精緻，並與用水乳化脂肪後的濃稠口感相平衡。

Just to immerse all of the daipan and the carrots in the bottom.

只需將大班和胡蘿蔔全部浸入底部即可。

Step two, he's going to activate his aromatics.

第二步，他要激活他的芳香劑。

Chef is going to start off by melting a little bit of beef tallow, and he's going to bring that up to temperature to extract as much flavor as he can.

大廚會先融化一點牛脂，然後將其加熱，以儘可能多地提取味道。

Ginger goes in first, just because it's a little bit wet, it's going to take a little bit more time to extract its flavor.

先放生薑，因為生薑有點溼，需要更多時間來提取它的味道。

You can honestly smell how aromatic it is in this kitchen before any of this beef has been involved.

老實說，在牛肉還沒進入廚房之前，你就能聞到廚房裡香氣撲鼻。

Yeah, this is the happiest time of the day for me.

是啊，這是我一天中最開心的時刻。

It's the happiest time of the day when it smells the best.

這是一天中最幸福的時刻，也是最香的時刻。

This is the most traditional cut for beef, right?

這是最傳統的牛肉切法，對嗎？

Yes, so actually in Taiwan, the beef shank is one of the most prized cuts.

是的，實際上在臺灣，牛腿肉是最珍貴的肉類之一。

This is the very inner part of the beef shank muscle.

Taiwanese people love it because it has the most sort of even distribution of fat, collagen, tendon, and meat.

臺灣人喜歡它，因為它的脂肪、膠原蛋白、筋腱和肉的分佈最均勻。

So as you can see, the intermuscular tendon on this cut is what makes this beef shank so valuable, especially in Taiwanese cuisine, and any cuisine that utilizes a lot of braising technique for beef dishes.

是以，正如您所看到的，這塊牛腿肉上的肌間腱是其珍貴之處，尤其是在臺灣菜和任何使用大量紅燒技術烹飪牛肉的菜餚中。

It's actually something too many people throw away.

實際上，很多人都把它扔掉了。

Yeah, it's something people don't think about.

You're meaty, fatty, and bouncy from tendon, right?

你肉多，脂肪多，肌腱彈跳力強，對嗎？

This, to me, is what makes New Roman Tea Town really unique.

在我看來，這就是新羅馬茶鎮的真正獨特之處。

Beef cheeks, notoriously difficult to cook.

French people cook it for hours and hours in beef bourguignon.

法國人會在紅酒牛肉（beef bourguignon）中烹飪數小時。

No, dude, I barely see this in Taiwan, ever.

不，老兄，我在臺灣幾乎沒看到過這種情況。

I've never really seen beef cheeks in Taiwan growing up.

我在臺灣長大，還真沒見過牛腩。

I tried looking at beef cheeks and can't find them.

我試著看了看牛頰肉，沒有找到。

Basically, the fattier part of the short rib.

基本上是指短肋骨較肥的部分。

You'll see one thick layer of fat, a layer of membrane, and a little bit of tendon.

你會看到一層厚厚的脂肪、一層薄膜和一點點肌腱。

It's too chewy for most classic Western preparations.

對於大多數經典的西式烹飪來說，它太有嚼勁了。

A very, very underrated part of the cow that's used in a lot of Asian cooking.

這是牛身上被低估的一部分，在很多亞洲烹飪中都會用到。

And, oh, I'll, before we continue, check out the scallions.

還有，哦，在我們繼續之前，我要看看蔥花。

Scallions are about to go into the fat as well.

From a scientific perspective, there are flavors that can be extracted by different solvents.

從科學的角度來看，不同的溶劑可以提取出不同的味道。

And in something like beef noodle soup, it's important to have both.

而像牛肉麵這樣的湯，兩者都要有是很重要的。

When you're drinking this soup, that oil is going to be the top layer of that soup.

當你喝湯的時候，油會成為湯的表層。

And because it's going to be hot, those aromatic compounds are going to slowly rise from the top of the soup, go into your nose.

由於湯會很燙，那些芳香化合物會慢慢從湯的頂部升起，進入你的鼻子。

That thin layer of oil is the first interaction, the first culinary flavor experience of the entire thing.

那層薄薄的油是第一次互動，是整個烹飪過程中的第一次風味體驗。

That's why it's so important to take care and every single thing is as flavorful as possible from step number one.

是以，從第一步開始，就必須小心謹慎，儘可能讓每一樣東西都味道鮮美。

So the onions cook down for about an hour until they're nice and caramelized.

是以，洋蔥要煮大約一個小時，直到變成焦糖狀。

And this step is essential to creating a broth that has varied levels of sweetness and not just sweetness from sugar.

這一步對於製作甜度不同的肉湯至關重要，而不僅僅是糖的甜味。

It's been about an hour or so and it really resembles the more conventional caramelized onions.

大約過了一個小時左右，它真的很像傳統的焦糖洋蔥。

It takes time, it takes patience, and it takes slow heat.

Chef is going to be sauteing his seasonings in the same exact wok.

大廚要用同樣的炒鍋來炒他的調料。

We're just gonna add a little bit more fat, but we want to keep all of that onion flavor.

我們只是要多加一點油脂，但要保留洋蔥的香味。

This mixture of fermented bean paste, Chef uses three different types of bean paste.

這種混合發酵的豆醬，廚師使用了三種不同的豆醬。

The Sichuan-style fermented baba bean paste, called pi xian dou ban.

四川風味的發酵粑粑豆瓣醬，名為皮縣豆瓣。

The more traditional Taiwanese-style fermented soy bean paste, called gang san la dou ban.

比較傳統的臺式發酵豆醬，稱為幫三拉豆瓣。

And the third, tian jiu liang dou hu ru, is a sweet rice wine, hu ru, which is a fermented soy bean.

第三種是甜米酒 "天九涼豆胡酒"，胡酒是一種發酵的黃豆。

是啊，是啊，我媽媽是客家人。

So Chef's mom is Hakka and that is his ode to his mother.

廚師的母親是客家人，這是他對母親的頌歌。

As you can see, it has the byproduct of making rice wine as well as the soy beans themselves and the pressed ground soy bean.

正如你所看到的，它既有釀造米酒的副產品，也有黃豆本身和壓榨的黃豆粉。

It has that nice kick of sweetness in the back while being very, very savory of crunch.

它既有甜味，又有香脆的口感。

There's so much sugar inside the bean paste, if Chef is not constantly agitating it in the wok, it's going to stick to the bottom and burn immediately.

豆瓣醬裡有很多糖，如果廚師不在炒鍋裡不斷攪拌，豆瓣醬就會粘在鍋底，馬上就會燒焦。

So this step is gonna be 10 minutes and after, we're gonna be adding in the soy sauce and then cooking the soy sauce down with the bean paste.

這一步需要 10 分鐘，然後加入醬油，再把醬油和豆瓣醬一起煮。

Chef is going to be adding these two sugars.

This is rock sugar, which is a much milder sweetness and this is called tai tang er sha and it has a much more malty and molassy flavor.

這是冰糖，甜味要溫和得多，這叫大唐二砂，麥芽味和糖蜜味要濃郁得多。

I think Chef's philosophy is to season things with the same ingredient, but different flavor profiles, right?

我認為大廚的理念是用相同的食材，但不同的口味來調味，對嗎？

So two types of sugar, three types of dou ban.

是以，有兩種糖，三種豆禁令。

In goes the beef tallow, scallion and spices.

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這道牛肉麵是臺灣最好的深夜美食 | Street Eats | Bon Appétit (This Beef Noodle Soup Is the Best Late Night Dish in Taiwan | Street Eats | Bon Appétit)

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