Name: 【TED-Ed】複雜的衝浪史 (The complicated history of surfing - Scott Laderman)
Uploaded: 2017-11-17T02:54:03.000Z
Duration: 5 min 40 s

對於一些人來說，這是一項嚴肅的運動。

程度副詞

對於其他人來說，只是一種放縱的方式。

轉承詞

But despite its casual association with fun and sun,

但是，儘管它與樂趣和陽光隨意聯繫在一起。

surfing has a richer and deeper history than many realize.

衝浪運動的歷史比許多人意識到的更豐富、更深刻。

the Polynesian islands  of the Pacific Ocean.

that wave riding was done  throughout the Polynesian Pacific,

在整個波利尼西亞太平洋地區都有乘風破浪的行為。

But it was in the Hawaiian archipelago in particular

and, unlike elsewhere in Polynesia, persisted.

並與波利尼西亞其他地方不同，持續存在。

wave sliding was not  just a recreational activity,

but one with spiritual  and social significance.

nearly every aspect of surfing was governed by a code of rules and taboos

Hawaiians made offerings when selecting a tree to carve,

夏威夷人在選擇一棵樹進行雕刻時，都會進行供奉。

prayed for waves with the help of a kahuna, or an expert priest,

在卡胡納或專業牧師的幫助下，為海浪祈禱。

and gave thanks after surviving a perilous wipeout.

並在經歷了一次險象環生的殲滅戰後謝罪。

Certain surf breaks were strickly reserved for the elite.

某些衝浪點被嚴格地保留給精英們。

但這並不只是一件莊重的事情。

Surfers competed and wagered on who could ride the farthest,

衝浪者們比賽並打賭，看誰能騎得最遠。

or catch the biggest wave with superior skill,

或以高超的技術抓住最大的浪花。

Though it was later called the sport of kings,

Hawaiian men and women of all ages and social classes participated,

夏威夷各年齡段和社會階層的男女都參加了活動。

which were thin, midsized, and somewhat resemble today's shortboards.

這是薄，中等大小，有點像今天'的短板。

short, round-nosed boards on which riders typically lay on their stomachs.

短，圓鼻板，騎手通常躺在上面。

But only chieftains could ride the massive olo boards,

但只有首領們才能騎上巨大的奧洛板。

requiring surfers to drags their hands or feet to turn.

要求衝浪者用手或腳拖著轉彎。

We don't know exactly when wave sliding was invented,

我們不知道波浪滑動到底是什麼時候發明的。

but we know that it had already been practiced in Polynesia for centuries

但我們知道這在波利尼西亞已經有幾個世紀的歷史了。

by the time it was described in 1777 by William Anderson,

到1777年威廉-安德森描述的時候。

a surgeon on Captain Cook's ship "Resolution."

庫克船長的 "決議號 "船上的一名外科醫生。

most of the American Christian  missionaries who arrived in Hawaii

美國基督教傳教士抵達夏威夷的大多數人。

and they discouraged it, along with other aspects of native culture.

他們不鼓勵這樣做，以及本土文化的其他方面。

The biggest threat to surfing, however, was the threat to the natives themselves.

然而，對沖浪運動最大的威脅，是對當地人本身的威脅。

By 1890, new illnesses introduced by Europeans and Americans

到了1890年，歐美人引進的新疾病

had decimated the Hawaiian people, leaving fewer than 40,000

夏威夷人被消滅了，只剩下不到4萬個人。

from a pre-contact population  that may have exceeded 800,000.

從接觸前的人口可能已經超過80萬。

同時，外國的影響也在不斷擴大

with white settlers overthrowing  the native monarchy in 1893,

1893年，白人定居者推翻了當地的君主制。

and the U.S. annexing  the islands five years later.

The end of Hawaii's independence coincided with surfing's native-led revival,

夏威夷'的獨立結束時，恰逢衝浪'的本土主導復興。

a revival soon exploited by the American colonizers.

很快被美國殖民者利用的復興。

But first, some Hawaiians  took surfing overseas.

但首先，一些夏威夷人把衝浪帶到了海外。

In 1907, George Freeth, the so-called Hawaiian Wonder,

1907年，喬治-弗萊思，所謂的夏威夷奇蹟。

and gave surfing demonstrations  in southern California.

Then in 1914, Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku

然後在1914年，奧林匹克游泳運動員卡哈納姆庫公爵。

made his way to Australia and New Zealand,

gliding across the southern Pacific waves

and attracting rapt audiences  wherever he went.

並且無論他走到哪裡，都能吸引眾多的聽眾。

Shortly before Freeth went to California,

a South Carolinian named  Alexander Hume Ford moved to Hawaii.

一個名叫亞歷山大-休姆-福特的南卡羅萊納人搬到了夏威夷。

After learning to surf, he became  a champion of the pastime.

學會衝浪後，他成了消遣的冠軍。

for his enthusiastic efforts  to boost the sport.

以表彰他為推動這項運動所做出的熱情努力。

Like many settlers, he wanted Hawaii to become a U.S. state

和許多移民一樣，他希望夏威夷成為美國的一個州。

but was worried about its non-white majority of natives and Asian workers.

但對其非白人為主的本地人和亞裔工人感到擔憂。

Ford thus promoted surfing to attract white Americans to Hawaii,

福特是以推廣衝浪運動，吸引美國白人到夏威夷來。

He was helped by numerous writers and filmmakers.

他得到了眾多作家和電影人的幫助。

Ford's demographic plan  would fail miserably.

and remains the most racially diverse  state in the country.

並仍然是全國種族最多樣化的州。

But the promotion of surfing was a far greater success.

但衝浪運動的推廣卻取得了更大的成功。

Today, surfing is a multi-billion dollar global industry,

如今，衝浪已經是一個價值數十億美元的全球產業。

with tens of millions  of enthusiasts worldwide.

And though relatively few of these surfers are aware of the once-crucial wave chants

而儘管這些衝浪者中相對較少的人知道曾經關鍵的海浪吟唱聲

Hawaiians continue to preserve these traditions