Name: 四國：漫步日本小鎮，體驗時光倒流！ (Shikoku: Stepping Back in Time in a Small Japanese Town)
Uploaded: 2026-03-07T17:40:49.000Z
Duration: 11 min 50 s

反身代名詞

Some of the most rewarding trips I've had in Japan happen when I get to step off of the beaten track and just lose myself in a quiet part of the countryside.

在日本，我最喜歡的旅行體驗，就是能跳脫觀光客的腳步，自在地迷失在寧靜的鄉間。

That makes you ask, what's the story here?

讓人不禁好奇，這裡到底有什麼故事呢？

And the beautifully preserved town of Uchiko here in Shikoku is just that kind of place.

而位於四國、保存完好的內子町，就是這樣一個迷人的地方。

不過，首先我們要怎麼抵達這裡呢？

To reach Uchiko, most will need to go through Matsuyama, known for its beautiful castle and the traditional hot spring resort of Dogo Onsen.

要到內子，大部分的人會先到松山，這裡以美麗的松山城和傳統的道後溫泉聞名。

To get there, you have the choice of flying into Matsuyama Airport, taking a Shinkansen Unlimited express train via Okayama, or if you're coming from Hiroshima, a car ferry or high speed hydrofoil from Hiroshima Port.

前往松山，您可以選擇飛抵松山機場、經由岡山搭乘新幹線（Shinkansen）特急列車，或者從廣島來的話，可以搭乘從廣島港出發的汽車渡輪或高速水翼船。

From Matsuyama, It's a pleasant 30 minute ride through the countryside by limited express to Uchiko Station.

從松山出發，搭乘特急列車前往內子車站，沿途欣賞鄉間美景，車程約30分鐘。

After arriving at Uchiko's little station, we set off for the town's historic area, about a 15 minute walk with a quick stop at the Uchikoza Theater along the way.

抵達內子小巧的車站後，我們就出發前往市區的歷史街區，步行約15分鐘，途中會經過內子座劇場。

Behind me is the Uchikoza Theatre, a fully equipped kabuki theatre built in 1916 and a major attraction of the town.

我身後的就是內子座劇場，這是一座設備齊全的歌舞伎（kabuki）劇場，建於1916年，是小鎮的一大景點。

Beautifully decorated inside and out, it also has a lot of hidden features, including trapdoors and secret passageways.

裡面和外面都裝飾得很漂亮，還有很多隱藏的機關，像是暗門和密道。

it's currently closed for renovation and is going to be covered up until spring of 2020.

它目前正在整修，要到2020年春天才會重新開放。

The main part of the historic district is called Yokaichi, or Eighth Day Market.

歷史街區的主要部分叫做「八日市」，也就是「第八天市集」。

For most of its history, the town was a minor rest stop on the busy Ozu Highway.

在大部分的歷史時期，這個小鎮只是繁忙的「大洲公路」上一個小小的休息站。

That all changed in the late Edo period, when the local economy began to boom.

直到江戶時代晚期，情況才開始改變，當時當地的經濟開始蓬勃發展。

Suddenly, local merchants had the money for beautiful new houses, many of which survive today.

突然間，地方上的商人有了錢蓋漂亮的房子，其中很多都留存至今。

Many of the buildings here are typical of the Edo and Meiji periods.

這裡的許多建築都很有江戶時代和明治時代的特色。

Narrow at the front with elaborate lattice work covering the doors and windows, plaster walls and tiled roofs.

前面比較窄，門窗有精緻的格子裝飾，牆壁是灰泥，屋頂是瓦片。

The main reason for the town's new prosperity was wax made from sumac berries, an ingredient widely cultivated in the hills nearby.

小鎮新繁榮的主要原因，是來自附近山區廣泛種植的漆樹果實所製成的蠟。

But its merchants also traded in paper, silk and local handicrafts.

不過，這裡的商人也會買賣紙張、絲綢和地方手工藝品。

At its peak, there were 23 different wax producers operating in the town.

全盛時期，鎮上有 23 家不同的蠟燭製造商。

Wax that would go on to become everything from crafting materials to hair pomade.

這些蠟可以製成各種東西，從手工藝材料到髮蠟。

Today, we can still find traces of those local industries, like the Omori Candle shop, a traditional business run by the same family for about 200 years, and

今天，我們仍然可以找到這些地方產業的痕跡，像是 Omori Candle shop，這家傳統店鋪由同一家族經營了將近 200 年，

Here in Ehime Prefecture, craftspeople from the Omori family have been working in a small space just like this for seven generations.

在 Ehime Prefecture，Omori 家族的工匠們就在這樣的小空間裡工作了七代。

Japanese traditional candles, like this are quite different from western ones.

像這樣的 Japanese traditional candles 和西式的很不一樣。

Inside the wick is actually hollow which draws the molten wax back up and feeds the flame even more efficiently.

裡面的燈芯其實是中空的，會將融化的蠟吸上來，更有效率地供給火焰。

While tourism was still a new phenomenon when the town reached its peak, we know that Uchiko was well known throughout the region and would have drawn its share of visitors.

雖然鎮上達到全盛時期時，觀光還是一個新興的現象，但我們知道 Uchiko 在整個地區都很有名，吸引了為數不少的遊客。

Today, the old town district is a great spot to explore for a relaxing couple of hours.

今天，舊城區是個很棒的地方，可以花個輕鬆的兩小時好好逛逛。

With various little shops and cafes to discover both on the main street and nearby.

沿著主要街道和附近的小巷，有好多特色小店和咖啡廳可以發掘。

I have been to so many preserved historic districts and yet there's something really special about this one.

我去過好多保存良好的歷史街區，但這裡真的有種特別的魅力。

Apart from how beautifully the houses themselves have been preserved, you can really get a sense of the town's story and the locals.

除了房子本身保存得非常漂亮之外，你更能感受到這個小鎮的故事和當地人的生活。

Some of the nicest people I've met on my travels.

這裡遇到的人們，是我旅途中遇到最友善的。

Another highlight of the town is the Kamihaga Residence and Wood Wax museum.

小鎮另一個讓人驚豔的景點是 Kamihaga Residence 和 Wood Wax museum。

Built in 1894, it belonged to one of the town's wealthiest families and the as their home and business premises.

這棟建築建於 1894 年，曾屬於鎮上最富有的家族之一，同時是他們的住家和生意場所。

You can find out all about the wax making process itself in the museum area, housed in what was once the factory floor.

在博物館區域，也就是以前的工廠，你可以瞭解整個蠟的製作過程。

Inside, a series of dioramas show the day to day tasks of running a profitable wax business.

裡面有一系列的立體模型，展示了經營獲利蠟生意日常的工務。

And you can still see a display case from when the family presented their wax to an international audience at the Paris World Expo in 1900.

你還可以看到當年這個家族在 1900 年巴黎世界博覽會上向國際展出他們的蠟製品的展示櫃。

A huge achievement that would have really put the company and the town on the map.

這項巨大的成就，真的讓公司和小鎮聲名遠播。

Just as interesting is the residence itself.

A beautiful old building with tatami matted rooms and lots of eye catching details.

這是一棟美麗的舊建築，有榻榻米房間和許多引人注目的細節。

Wax in Uchiko was big business and as the money piled up, security became really important.

Uchiko 的蠟燭生意非常興隆，隨著財富累積，安全變得非常重要。

Here at the main entrance you you can see a whole series of really sturdy looking locks that were cleverly integrated into the doors.

在正門這裡，你可以看到一系列看起來非常堅固的鎖，它們巧妙地整合在門上。

Just exploring old towns is great, but there's something really special about staying somewhere grounded in that atmosphere.

探索舊城鎮很棒，但住在充滿那種氛圍的地方，感覺真的很特別。

For our accommodation tonight, we've booked something really exciting.

我們今晚的住宿，我們預訂了一個非常令人興奮的地方。

A beautifully restored old townhouse called Tsumugi, just around the corner from the main strip.

一棟名為 Tsumugi 的美麗修復舊式聯排別墅，就在主要街道的轉角處。

好的，讓我們來看看我們有什麼。

Loads of space, loads of nice traditional fittings, but still feels really modern.

空間寬敞，有許多漂亮的傳統裝飾，但感覺仍然很現代。

喔，我覺得這裡會是完美的選擇。

After a long day of sightseeing and I even heard there is a bar.

經過一整天的觀光，而且我還聽到這裡有酒吧。

One of eight similar properties managed by Uchiko no Yado, Tsumugi comes with all the features of a machiya style house, multiple bedrooms and plenty of room to relax in.

Tsumugi 是 Uchiko no Yado 管理的八處類似房產之一，擁有町屋風格房屋的所有特色，有多間臥室，還有足夠的空間可以放鬆。

It's starting to get dark now, so I'm going to head out and get some dinner.

天色漸漸暗了，我準備出去吃晚餐。

For dinner tonight, we're stopping at Sushi Izakaya Kotetsu, a traditional restaurant and bar with was just the right balance of coziness and refinement.

今晚的晚餐，我們要到 Sushi Izakaya Kotetsu，這是一家傳統的餐廳兼酒吧，氣氛溫馨又不失格調。

Locals have been coming here for years and honestly, it's easy to see why.

當地人來這裡很多年了，說實話，很容易明白為什麼。

Although we haven't actually seen it on this trip, we're just a few kilometers away from the coast here, so the seafood is really nice and fresh.

雖然這次旅行我們還沒親眼見到，但我們離海岸只有幾公里，所以海鮮真的很美味又新鮮。

For the second day of our visit, we're traveling just a bit further outside of the old town area.

我們這次旅行的第二天，要稍微往舊城區外面走一點。

So I start the day with a trip to the nearby tourist information centre to pick up a rental bike.

所以我一早先去附近的遊客中心，租一臺腳踏車。

My first stop today is at Karari, a roadside station in a nice spot by the river.

我今天的第一站是 Karari，一個位於河邊風景不錯的休息站。

And if you've spent much time in the Japanese countryside, you'll know that every small town seems to have one.

如果你在日本鄉下待過一段時間，就會知道每個小鎮好像都有一個。

There's a farmers market selling fresh seasonal produce.

這裡有農夫市集，賣著當季新鮮的農產品。

There are terraces looking out over the river, and there's even a bakery that the locals rave about.

有可以眺望河景的露臺，甚至還有間當地人讚不絕口的麵包店。

Leaving Karari behind, I set off along the river to my next stop just as the sun started to show its face again.

告別 Karari，我沿著河邊繼續前往下一站，此時太陽也開始露臉了。

I'm sure this will be one of the town's nicest spots in spring when the cherry blossom trees are in bloom.

我敢肯定，春天櫻花盛開時，這裡一定會是鎮上最美的地方之一。

Next, we're diving back into the town's industrial past with a visit to the Tenjinsanshi paper Factory, founded over 100 years ago.

接下來，我們要回到這個城鎮的工業歷史，參觀擁有百年歷史的天神山紙廠。

Here, local craftspeople carry on the practice of making Ozuwashi, a traditional style of paper that can be traced back to ancient times in this part of the country.

在這裡，當地工匠們延續著製作 Ozuwashi 的傳統，這是一種可以追溯到這個國家古代的傳統紙張。

As paper, it's known for being smooth to the touch and and durable.

這種紙質地光滑，而且非常耐用。

Perfect for calligraphy, shoji screens, and even kite battles.

非常適合書法、障子門，甚至是風箏戰。

The process begins with mulberry bark, which is stripped away, softened, and

製作過程從桑樹皮開始，將其剝離、軟化，然後

left to stand in water, releasing the fibers inside and creating a pulp.

浸泡水中，釋放裡面的纖維，製成紙漿。

The craftsmen use a special screen to scoop up the pulp and spread it evenly into sheets.

工匠們會用特殊的網子撈起紙漿，均勻地鋪平成紙張。

This is the part that determines how the paper feels to the touch.

The sheets are put in a stack and pressed to remove the last of the water, then peeled off and left to dry.

紙張疊好後，壓製以去除最後的水分，然後剝離晾乾。

The whole process is really tactile and surprisingly satisfying.

整個過程真的很有觸感，而且出乎意料地令人滿足。

My last stop in Uchiko is just across the river and reveals a whole different side to the town.

我在 Uchiko 的最後一站就在河對岸，展現了這個城鎮截然不同的一面。

For more than 400 years, Uchiko's Ikazaki district has been the setting for a spectacular kite festival that takes place every year on May 5.

四百多年來，Uchiko 的 Ikazaki 區一直是每年 5 月 5 日舉辦壯觀風箏節的場所。

As part of the celebrations for Children's Day, hundreds of kites, big and small, make an appearance, including some celebrating a child's first festival.

作為兒童節慶祝活動的一部分，數百隻大小風箏會登場，其中有些是慶祝孩子們的第一次節日。

Attached to the strings are special blades used to cut down your opponent's kite.

風箏線上綁著特製的刀刃，用來割斷對手的風箏。

The museum showcases around 400 kites, including examples from the local festival, traditional designs from all over Japan, and

博物館裡展示了大約 400 個風箏，包括當地祭典的風箏、日本各地的傳統設計，

So that was Uchiko, a beautiful old town and a great place to connect with traditional culture while going off the beaten track in Japan.

這就是 Uchiko，一個美麗的舊城鎮，也是一個在日本冷門景點中體驗傳統文化的絕佳地點。

For another great video exploring one of Japan's less visited destinations, click on the thumbnail on screen now.

想看另一個探索日本較少人去過的目的地的精彩影片，請點擊螢幕上的縮圖。