Name: Alex Honnold：我如何攀登3000呎… (Alex Honoold：How I climbed 3000…)
Uploaded: 2026-01-31T15:43:55.000Z
Duration: 11 min 25 s

I'd like to show you guys 30 seconds of the best day of my life.

我想讓大家看看我人生中最美好的一天的 30 秒。

So that was El Capitan in California's Yosemite National Park.

那就是加州的優山美地國家公園裡的 El Capitan。

And in case you couldn't tell, I was climbing by myself without a rope.

如果你沒看出來的話，我是一個人沒有繩索在攀爬。

A style of climbing known as free soloing.

這是一種叫做無繩獨攀的攀爬方式。

That was the culmination of a nearly decade long dream.

And in the video, I'm over 2,500ft off the ground.

在影片中，我離地超過 2,500 英尺。

Which is why I spent so many years dreaming about soloing El Cap and not actually doing it.

這就是為什麼我花了這麼多年夢想著獨攀 El Cap，而不是真的去做的原因。

But on the day that that video was taken, it didn't feel scary at all.

但拍那支影片的那天，一點都不覺得嚇人。

It felt as comfortable and as natural as a walk in the park, which is what most folks were doing in Yosemite that day.

感覺就像在公園散步一樣舒適自然，那天優山美地國家公園裡的大部分人們都在這麼做。

Today, I'd like to talk about how I was able to feel so comfortable and how I overcame my fear.

今天，我想跟大家聊聊我是怎麼能感覺這麼舒適，又是怎麼克服我的恐懼的。

I'll start with a very brief version of how I became a climber and then tell the story of my two most significant free solos.

我會先簡單講一下我怎麼成為一個攀巖者，然後再講我兩次最重要的無繩獨攀的故事。

They were both successful, which is why I'm here.

這兩次都非常成功，這也是我為什麼會在這裡。

The first felt largely unsatisfying, whereas the second, El Cap was by far the most fulfilling day of my life.

第一次的感覺很不令人滿足，而第二次，El Cap 絕對是我人生中最令人滿足的一天。

Through these two climbs, you'll see my process for managing fear.

透過這兩次攀登，你會看到我管理恐懼的過程。

So I started climbing in a gym when I was around 10 years old, which means that my life has been centered on climbing for more than 20 years.

所以我大約十歲時開始在健身房攀巖，這意味著我的人生有二十多年都圍繞著攀巖打轉。

After nearly a decade of climbing mostly indoors, I made the transition to the outdoors and gradually started free soloing.

在室內攀巖了將近十年後，我轉往戶外，並慢慢開始無繩獨攀。

I built up my comfort over time and slowly took on bigger and more challenging walls.

我隨著時間慢慢建立起我的舒適感，並逐漸挑戰更大、更難的巖壁。

And there had been many free solos before me, so I had plenty of inspiration to draw from.

而且在我之前已經有許多無繩獨攀的紀錄，所以我有很多靈感可以參考。

But by 2008, I'd repeated most of their previous solos in Yosemite and was starting to imagine breaking into new terrain.

但到了 2008 年，我在優山美地國家公園已經重複了他們大部分的獨攀路線，並開始想像要挑戰新的領域。

The obvious first choice was Half dome, an iconic 2,000 foot wall that lords over the east end of the valley.

第一個顯而易見的選擇是半圓頂，這是一面標誌性的 2,000 英尺巖壁，坐落在山谷的東端。

The problem, though, also the allure, was that it was too big.

問題，也是吸引人的地方，就是它太大了。

I didn't really know how to prepare for potential free solo, so I decided to skip the preparations and just go up there and have an adventure.

我其實不知道該如何準備潛在的無繩獨攀，所以我決定跳過準備，直接上去冒險。

I figured I would rise to the occasion, which, unsurprisingly, was not the best strategy.

我認為我會臨機應變，但不出所料，這不是最好的策略。

I did at least climb the route, roped up with a friend two days before just to make sure that I knew roughly where to go and that I could physically do it.

我至少爬了那條路線，兩天前和朋友一起有繩攀，只是為了確保我大致知道要去哪裡，以及我身體上是否能做到。

But when I came back by myself two days later, I decided that I didn't want to go that way.

但兩天後我獨自回來時，我決定不想走那條路。

I knew that there was a 300 foot variation that circled around one of the hardest parts of the climb.

我知道有一條 300 英尺的變道，繞過了攀登中最困難的部分。

I suddenly decided to skip the hard part and take the variation, even though I'd never climbed it before.

我突然決定跳過難的部分，走變道，即使我以前從未爬過。

Imagine being by yourself in the dead center of a 2,000 foot face, wondering if you're lost.

想像一下，在兩千英尺高的巖壁中間，獨自一人，不知道自己是不是迷路了。

Thankfully, it was pretty much the right way and I circled back to the route.

幸好，我走的路大致正確，而且我繞回了路線上。

But I tried not to let it bother me too much because I knew that all the hardest climbing was up the top.

但我試著不要讓它太困擾我，因為我知道最難的攀爬都在上方。

It was a beautiful September morning, and

as I climbed higher, I could hear the sounds of tourists chatting and laughing on the summit.

隨著我爬得越高，我能聽到山頂上遊客們哈拉和笑的聲音。

They'd all hiked up the normal trail on the back, which I was planning on using for my descent.

他們都是從後面走平常的路爬上來的，這也是我打算下降時要走的路線。

But between me and the summit lay a blank slab of granite.

但在我和山頂之間，是一片空白的花崗巖。

There were no cracks or edges to hold onto, just small ripples of texture of a slightly less than vertical wall.

沒有裂縫或邊緣可以抓，只有稍微不那麼垂直的牆壁上，一些細微的紋理。

I had to trust my life to the friction between my climbing shoes and the smooth granite.

我必須相信我的攀巖鞋和光滑花崗巖之間的摩擦力，將我的生命託付給它。

I carefully balanced my way upward, shifting my weight back and forth between the small smears.

我小心翼翼地向上平衡，在這些小小的摩擦點之間來回移動重心。

But then I reached a foothold that I didn't quite trust.

但接著，我來到了一個我不太信任的立足點。

Two days ago, I just stepped right up on it.

I doubted that my foot would stay on if I weighted it.

我懷疑如果我把重量放在上面，我的腳會不會滑掉。

I considered a foot further to the side, but seemed worse.

我考慮了旁邊一個更遠的立足點，但看起來更糟。

再遠一點的立足點看起來更糟。

I could hear people laughing on the summit just above me.

我聽到頭頂上頂峰的人們在笑。

I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.

我寧願出現在任何地方，也不願待在這個巖板上。

I knew what I had to do, but I was just too afraid to do it.

我知道我必須做什麼，但我就是太害怕不敢做。

And so, after what felt like an eternity, I accepted what I had to do and I stood up on the right foot.

於是，在感覺像永恆的漫長等待後，我接受了必須做的事，並站上了右腳。

And that move marked the end of the hardest climbing.

那個動作標誌著最艱難的攀爬結束了。

And so I charged from there towards the summit.

Normally, when you summit Half Dome, you have a rope and a bunch of climbing gear on you, and

通常，當你登上 Half Dome 的頂峰時，身上會綁著繩索和一堆攀巖裝備，

tourists gasp and they flock around you for photos.

This time, I popped over the edge, shirtless, panting, jacked.

這一次，我光著上身，喘著氣，精神飽滿地翻過邊緣。

I looked like a lost hiker that was too close to the edge.

我看起來像個迷路的登山客，離邊緣太近了。

I was surrounded by people talking on cell phones and having picnics.

我被一群講著手機、野餐的人們包圍著。

我感覺就像在逛百貨公司一樣。

I took off my tight climbing shoes and started hiking back down.

我脫掉了緊身的攀巖鞋，開始往回走。

that night in my climate journal, I duly noted my free solo faftum.

但那天晚上，我在氣候日誌裡，確實記錄了我無繩獨攀的「 faftum」。

But I included a frowny face and a comment, do better.

我還附上了一個苦臉和留言，說要做得更好。

I'd succeeded in the solo, and it was celebrated as a big first in climbing.

我成功完成了這次的獨攀，這被譽為攀巖界的一大創舉。

Some friends later made a film about it, but I was unsatisfied.

後來有些朋友還為此拍了電影，但我卻感到不滿。

I was disappointed in my performance because I knew that I'd gotten away with something.

我對自己的表現感到失望，因為我知道我僥倖過關了。

I actually took the next year or so off from free soloing because I knew that I shouldn't make a habit of relying on luck.

接下來一年左右，我真的暫停了無繩獨攀，因為我知道我不應該養成依賴運氣的習慣。

But even though I wasn't soloing very much, I'd already started to think about El Cap.

雖然我沒有經常獨攀，但我已經開始考慮 El Cap 了。

It was always in the back of my mind as the obvious crown jewel of solos.

它一直是我腦海中，最顯而易見的獨攀頂峰。

It's the most striking wall in the world.

它是世界上最引人注目的巖壁。

Each year for the next seven years, I'd think, this is the year that I'm going to solo El Cap.

接下來的七年，我每年都會想，今年就是我要獨攀 El Cap 的一年。

And then I would drive in Yosemite, look up at the wall and think, no frickin way.

然後我會開車進優山美地國家公園，抬頭看著那面巖壁，心想，絕對不可能。

But eventually I came to accept that I wanted to test myself against El Cap.

但最終我接受了，我想挑戰 El Cap。

It represented true mastery, but I needed it to feel different.

它代表了真正的精湛技藝，但我需要它感覺不一樣。

I didn't want to get away with anything or barely squeak by this time, I wanted to do it right.

這一次，我不想只是僥倖過關或勉強成功，我想要做得漂亮。

The thing that makes El Cap so intimidating is the sheer scale of the wall.

讓 El Cap 如此令人望而生畏的地方，就是那巖壁的巨大規模。

Most climbers take three to five days to ascend the 3,000ft of vertical granite.

大部分的攀巖者需要三到五天的時間，才能攀上那 3,000 英尺的垂直花崗巖。

The idea of setting out up a wall of that size with nothing but shoes in a chalk bag seemed impossible.

想像一下，只穿著鞋子，帶著一個裝滿止汗粉的袋子，就要開始攀爬這麼大的巖壁，這聽起來根本不可能。

3,000ft of climbing represents thousands of distinct hand and foot movements, which is a lot to remember.

3,000 英尺的攀爬，意味著成千上萬次獨立的手腳動作，這實在太多了，記不住。

Many of the moves I knew through sheer repetition.

很多動作，我都是靠著純粹的重複練習才記住的。

I'd climbed Oka maybe 50 times over the previous decade with a rope, but

在過去的十年裡，我曾帶著繩索攀爬 Oka 大約 50 次，但是

this photo shows my preferred method of rehearsing the moves.

這張照片顯示了我偏好的練習方式。

I'm on the summit, about to rappel down the face with over 1,000ft of rope to spend the day practicing by myself.

我在頂峰，準備帶著超過 1,000 英尺的繩索下降，獨自一人花一整天練習。

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Alex Honnold：我如何攀登3000呎… (Alex Honoold：How I climbed 3000…)

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mindset

physical