Name: 擁有 500 年曆史的彩虹糖如何保存亞洲被遺忘的文化之一？ (How A 500-Year-Old Rainbow Sweet Is Preserving One Of Asia's Forgotten Cultures | Still Standing)
Uploaded: 2025-08-26T03:09:19.000Z
Duration: 10 min 43 s

Peeling this gelatinous kueh lapis layer by layer is the correct way to eat it.

將這種凝膠狀的粿條一層一層地剝開才是正確的食用方法。

情態副詞

If you chew it without peeling, it means that you are actually shortening your lifespan.

如果咀嚼時不去皮，就意味著你實際上在縮短壽命。

程度副詞

For almost 80 years, Edmond Wong's family has been making these bite-sized treats in Singapore.

近 80 年來，埃德蒙-王（Edmond Wong）的家族一直在新加坡製作這些一口大小的點心。

Crafting them is part of a culture that goes back about 500 years.

製作它們是一種可追溯到約 500 年前的文化的一部分。

Nonya kueh is historically significant to the Peranakan people, a cultural group prominent between the 15th and early 20th centuries that's working to be remembered today.

娘惹粿條對霹靂那堪人來說具有重要的歷史意義，霹靂那堪人是 15 世紀至 20 世紀初的一個重要文化群體，如今正努力讓人們記住這個群體。

Their varied and colorful snacks are a staple of Southeast Asian cuisine.

他們的小吃豐富多彩，是東南亞美食的主打。

But as the popularity of nonya kueh increases, some shopkeepers like Edmond fear its Peranakan roots will be forgotten.

但是，隨著糯米粿越來越受歡迎，一些像埃德蒙這樣的店主擔心它的霹靂根源會被遺忘。

For our business, we see us being not just only a food business, but a heritage business.

對於我們的企業來說，我們認為我們不僅是一家食品企業，還是一家遺產企業。

People may enjoy to eat them, but they may not know the meaning behind it, and they may lose touch with the heritage.

人們可能喜歡吃，但可能不知道背後的意義，也可能與遺產失之交臂。

We went to Singapore to see how Peranakan culture and the art of making nonya kueh is still standing.

我們去新加坡是為了看看霹靂文化和糯米粿製作技藝是如何屹立不倒的。

Kueh is a broad term for bite-sized snacks or desserts commonly found in Southeast Asia, including cakes, dumplings, and pastries.

Kueh 是東南亞常見的一口大小的小吃或甜點的統稱，包括蛋糕、餃子和糕點。

Kueh are prepared differently by multiple cultures in the region.

在該地區，不同文化背景的人對 Kueh 的烹飪方法各不相同。

The ones made by Singapore's Peranakan community are called nonya kueh.

新加坡霹靂社區製作的糯米粿（nonya kueh）被稱為 "糯米粿"。

The neighborhood of Joo Chiat has long been a center of Peranakan culture.

長期以來，Joo Chiat 社區一直是霹靂文化的中心。

It's where the shop Kim Joo Kueh Cheong has been located since 1945.

自 1945 年以來，Kim Joo Kueh Cheong 的店鋪就一直開在這裡。

This business started off from my grandma.

She started selling rice dumplings under a banyan tree, and that's how we started.

她開始在一棵榕樹下賣粽子，我們就這樣開始了。

Edmond still uses her recipes to make all the shop's kueh.

現在，埃德蒙仍在使用她的食譜製作店裡所有的粿條。

Today, the team is making a batch of one of their most popular items, kueh lapis.

今天，團隊正在製作一批最受歡迎的產品之一--粿條。

It's a nine-layer steamed cake made with a base of tapioca flour, coconut milk, and sugar.

這是一種九層蒸蛋糕，以木薯粉、椰奶和糖為基底。

In Chinese, we also call it jiu cheng gao, which means nine-layer kuehs.

在中文裡，我們也叫它九層糕，意思是九層粿。

When our forefathers came here, they couldn't use ingredients from China, so they used local ingredients like coconut, coconut shred, palm sugar, and then we create something that looks Chinese, but it's not Chinese.

當我們的祖先來到這裡時，他們不能使用來自中國的食材，所以他們使用了椰子、椰絲、棕櫚糖等在地食材，然後我們創造了一些看起來像中國的東西，但它不是中國的。

Workers mix the ingredients into a paste and strain it.

工人將配料攪拌成糊狀，然後過濾。

Kueh lapis is known for its colorful layers.

Kueh 青金石以其豐富多彩的層次而聞名。

In the past, makers would use plants for natural coloring, like butterfly pea flowers for blue shades or pandan leaves for green.

過去，製作者會使用植物進行天然著色，如蝴蝶豆花的藍色色調或蒲丹葉的綠色色調。

But today, Edmond uses store-bought dyes to get each layer to the perfect shade of red or green.

但如今，埃德蒙用商店裡買來的染料把每一層都染成完美的紅色或綠色。

Then workers repeat the process of pouring and steaming eight times.

然後，工人們重複八次澆注和蒸煮過程。

在這個步驟中，時間就是一切。

Pour in a layer too early, and the colors could mix together, ruining the entire batch.

太早倒入一層，顏色可能會混在一起，毀掉整批產品。

So workers carefully steam each layer for exactly five minutes at 100 degrees Celsius.

於是，工人們小心翼翼地在 100 攝氏度的高溫下將每一層蒸上 5 分鐘。

Because it's made without preservatives, the shop only makes about 320 kueh lapis a day.

由於製作時不使用防腐劑，該店每天只製作約 320 塊青金石。

We try not to sell too much because all these items cannot be kept long.

我們儘量不出售太多，因為所有這些物品都不能長久保存。

It's best eaten on the day when it's being produced and best eaten fresh.

最好在生產當天食用，而且最好新鮮食用。

There's also a specific way to eat kueh lapis.

The different colors of the kueh represent different phases of our lives.

不同顏色的粿代表了我們人生的不同階段。

If you chew it without peeling, it means that you are actually shortening your lifespan because you're missing out so much of your life.

如果你咀嚼它而不去皮，就意味著你實際上在縮短壽命，因為你錯過了太多的生命。

I've been eating kueh since four years ago.

At first, I would just take it manually and just put it in my mouth.

起初，我只是手動把它放進嘴裡。

But after the staff here told me that I'm supposed to peel one by one and taste the flavor, that's when I realized that I have been eating kueh lapis wrongly ever since four years ago.

但是，當這裡的工作人員告訴我，應該一片一片地剝皮，品嚐味道後，我才意識到，從四年前開始，我就一直在錯誤地吃粿條。

My grandma, before she passed on, she would say that if your life like the kueh lapis, even if you're met with difficult times, continue to peel through that layer, you'll eventually see a bright color.

我奶奶去世前曾說過，如果你的人生就像青金石一樣，即使遇到困難，也要繼續剝開那一層，最終你會看到亮麗的色彩。

Researchers believe kueh originated in southern Fujian, China and were first introduced to Southeast Asia by Chinese traders who migrated to Malaysia during the 15th century.

研究人員認為，粿條起源於中國福建南部，最早由 15 世紀移居馬來西亞的中國商人傳入東南亞。

These traders married local Malay women and their descendants, known as Straits Chinese or Peranakan, preserved their traditions, including making non-yuk kueh for celebrations like Chinese New Year.

這些商人娶了當地的馬來婦女，他們的後代被稱為海峽華人或峇峇那幹人，他們保留了自己的傳統，包括在中國新年等慶祝活動中製作非玉粿。

When the British established a port in Singapore in 1819, many Peranakans migrated there for trade opportunities.

1819 年，英國人在新加坡建立了一個港口，許多霹靂人為了貿易機會移居到那裡。

Their fluency in Chinese, Malay, and English helped them become middlemen between British and locals during the colonial era.

他們流利的華語、馬來語和英語幫助他們在殖民時代成為英國人和當地人之間的中間人。

By the early 20th century, they were among Southeast Asia's most influential people, contributing their own distinct art, fashion, architecture, and food throughout the region.

到 20 世紀初，他們已躋身東南亞最具影響力的人物之列，為整個地區貢獻了自己獨特的藝術、時尚、建築和美食。

But Japan's occupation of Singapore during World War II devastated the community.

但日本在第二次世界大戰期間對新加坡的佔領摧毀了這個社區。

Many Peranakans, including Edmund's grandmother, lost their fortunes and had to sell their belongings to survive.

許多霹靂人，包括埃德蒙的祖母，都失去了財產，不得不變賣家產來維持生計。

During the time of war, she had to try and make a living for herself.

在戰爭時期，她不得不努力為自己謀生。

And the only skill set she had back then were the culinary skills passed down to her from her maternal grandmother.

而她當時唯一掌握的技能就是外祖母傳授給她的烹飪技巧。

The decades following World War II also marked a shift to modernization in Singapore.

第二次世界大戰後的幾十年也標誌著新加坡向現代化的轉變。

Many Peranakans left their traditions behind.

許多霹靂人將自己的傳統拋在腦後。

By the 1970s, the community was on the verge of extinction.

到 20 世紀 70 年代，該社區已瀕臨滅絕。

For Edmund's grandmother and other Peranakans, selling their non-yuk kueh was a way to make a living while keeping their culture alive.

對於埃德蒙的祖母和其他霹靂人來說，出售他們的非玉粿是一種謀生方式，同時也能讓他們的文化得以延續。

And Edmund is working to do the same in her honor.

These rice dumplings, or kueh cheong, have been prepared the same way since the shop opened.

這些粽子（或稱 "粿條"）自店面開張以來一直沿用相同的製作方法。

Workers start by filling pandan leaves with rice and meat and wrapping them into a pyramid shape.

工人們先在蒲丹葉中填入米和肉，然後包成金字塔形。

Then the dumplings are tied with a small rope and boiled for one and a half hours.

然後用小繩子捆住粽子，再煮一個半小時。

These days, kueh cheong is the shop's best seller.

如今，粿條是店裡最暢銷的食品。

Over several decades, non-yuk kueh has gone from a Peranakan delicacy to a staple for all Southeast Asians throughout Singapore.

經過幾十年的發展，無油粿已經從一種霹靂美食變成了新加坡所有東南亞人的主食。

We are a brand that's been around since 1945.

我們是一個自 1945 年以來就一直存在的品牌。

So basically, you will see us as a brand that grew with Singapore.

是以，我們基本上是一個與新加坡共同成長的品牌。

We are really fortunate that throughout the generations, we have a lot of Singaporeans and foreigners supporting us.

我們真的很幸運，在這幾代人中，有很多新加坡人和外國人支持我們。

But because kueh has become more popular, some see it as a Singaporean delicacy instead of a Peranakan one.

但由於粿條越來越受歡迎，有些人認為它是新加坡美食，而不是霹靂州美食。

And Edmund worries its Peranakan roots could be forgotten over time.

埃德蒙擔心，隨著時間的推移，它的霹靂根源可能會被遺忘。

All these Peranakan stories, it tells us how to live our lives.

這些霹靂故事告訴我們如何生活。

One of these days, if the stories are not being shared, then my fear is, yes, people may enjoy to eat them, but they may not know the meaning behind it and they may lose touch with the heritage.

總有一天，如果這些故事不被分享，那麼我擔心的是，人們可能會喜歡吃，但他們可能不知道背後的意義，可能會失去與遺產的聯繫。

That's why he believes it's so important to share Peranakan history with others while he can.

這就是為什麼他認為在力所能及的情況下與他人分享霹靂歷史是如此重要。

Kim Chu Kueh Cheong partnered with the Singaporean government to convert a portion of its restaurant into a boutique shop and museum.

Kim Chu Kueh Cheong 與新加坡政府合作，將其餐廳的一部分改建成精品店和博物館。

Visitors can attend guided tours to learn about the different aspects of Peranakan heritage.

遊客可以參加導遊活動，瞭解霹靂遺產的方方面面。

The collection includes family heirlooms, art and traditional clothing.

藏品包括傳家寶、藝術品和傳統服裝。

A lot of these items were either from my grandmother or of which late, you know, a lot of families who do not wish to keep them anymore, we actually do purchase directly from them if they no longer want to keep them.

這些物品中有很多是我祖母留下的，也有很多是晚輩留下的，你知道，有很多家庭不想再保留這些物品了，如果他們不想再保留這些物品，我們會直接從他們那裡購買。

We teach them about the history, about why we eat certain things a certain way, and it's really important.

我們教他們歷史，教他們為什麼要以某種方式吃某些東西，這真的很重要。

More than the food, you know, we want to be custodians.

比起食物，你知道，我們更想成為監護人。

We want to promote the Peranakan heritage.

Edmond isn't the only one working to preserve this unique culture.

埃德蒙德並不是唯一一個致力於保護這一獨特文化的人。

Since the 1980s, preservationists and the Singaporean government have worked to promote Peranakan culture.

自 20 世紀 80 年代以來，保護主義者和新加坡政府一直致力於推廣霹靂文化。

Today, Singapore is home to multiple government-backed Peranakan museums and exhibits like the one at Kim Chu Kueh Cheong, as well as programs meant to preserve Peranakan architecture.

如今，新加坡有多個由政府支持的霹靂博物館和展覽，如金珠桂昌博物館，以及旨在保護霹靂建築的項目。

The Peranakan community, or the culture, is not about the marriage of races.

霹靂州社區或文化與種族聯姻無關。

It is largely about the marriage of cultures.

這在很大程度上與文化的聯姻有關。

And if we can embrace this concept and help more of us understand it, basically all of us in Singapore, even in Southeast Asia, can embrace and share this culture also.

如果我們能夠接受這一概念，並幫助更多的人瞭解這一概念，那麼基本上我們所有新加坡人，甚至東南亞人，都能接受並分享這一文化。

Ever since I found out much about my heritage, it gives me identity.

自從我發現自己的遺產後，它給了我認同感。

I will always remember that this is my home, and I always have to come back here.

我會永遠記住，這裡是我的家，我永遠要回到這裡。

His hope is that the next generation will get to understand the history behind the kueh they know and love.

他希望下一代能夠了解他們所熟悉和喜愛的粿條背後的歷史。

Passing down his grandmother's legacy is the best way to do that.

傳承祖母的遺產就是最好的方式。

In the same way stories being passed down to her, she also passed down to us, to this generation, and we hope that we can continue to share this story with many more generations to come.

同樣，她的故事也傳給了我們，傳給了這一代人，我們希望能繼續與更多的後代分享這個故事。