Name: 宜蘭必吃「窯烤雞」排隊名店！集結美味、技術於一身的最完美烤雞！好吃到一天熱銷400隻！掌握酥脆外皮的關鍵祕訣！｜美食公道伯｜GQ 臺灣 (宜蘭必吃「窯烤雞」排隊名店！集結美味、技術於一身的最完美烤雞！好吃到一天熱銷400隻！掌握酥脆外皮的關鍵祕訣！｜美食公道伯｜GQ Taiwan)
Uploaded: 2025-06-27T05:41:15.000Z
Duration: 12 min 12 s

It is 10 a.m., we're right outside Taipei in Yilan.

現在是上午 10 點，我們就在臺北郊外的宜蘭。

We're at Fuge Shiyaoji, and we're about to check out some of the most traditional kiln-roasted chicken in Taiwan.

我們現在在福格燒雞店，即將品嚐臺灣最傳統的窯燒雞。

They're about to light the fire right now, so let's take a look.

他們現在就要點火了，讓我們一起來看看吧。

First thing in the morning, what chef is going to do is fire these logs with gas until he gets a very nice, consistent temperature.

早上第一件事，主廚要做的就是用煤氣點燃這些原木，直到溫度達到一個非常好的、穩定的溫度。

It really just acts as a heating agent for the entire drum.

它實際上只是作為整個滾筒的加熱劑。

They're using probably recycled wood, controls fire really well.

他們使用的可能是回收木材，可以很好地控制火候。

In Taiwan, there's this thing called wen-ti-ji.

在臺灣，有一種東西叫 "文帝廟"。

Wen-ti-ji means it's slaughtered in the morning, delivered in the afternoon.

Wen-ti-iji 意思是上午宰殺，下午送達。

所以，從字面上看，就是熱身雞，對嗎？

So breed is called hei-yu-ji, black feather chicken.

是以，這個品種被稱為黑羽雞。

He dabs his fingers into the bucket of salt, and then he uses that sort of salt water mixture on his hands to rub it all over the chicken.

他用手指蘸一桶鹽，然後用手上的鹽水混合物在雞身上塗抹。

These vertical skewers, this is what's really cool.

這些垂直的烤串，才是真正的酷。

You know, the chicken is roasting straight up, kind of like a beer can chicken type of thing.

要知道，雞肉是直著烤的，有點像啤酒罐裡的雞肉。

Because of the way they're positioned, with the water pan in the bottom, it's even gonna go inside of the cavity of the chicken, which means that it's gonna cook inside out.

由於水盆的位置在底部，它甚至會進入雞肉的內腔，這意味著雞肉會從內向外烹飪。

On the outside, it's gonna be continually dried, but the added moisture of the air is actually going to make that air hotter, faster.

從外表上看，空氣會持續乾燥，但空氣中增加的水分實際上會使空氣更熱、更快。

People usually think if you add water to a roasting process, your skin won't be crispy.

人們通常認為，如果在烤制過程中加水，表皮就不會酥脆。

But the water in this case will actually accelerate the heat and it'll still give you crispy skin.

但在這種情況下，水實際上會加速加熱，而且還能讓你吃到脆皮。

It's a technique that a lot of fine dining fancy chefs have in their combi ovens, which is a combination of dry and wet heat.

很多高級餐廳的大廚都會在他們的組合式烤箱中使用乾熱和溼熱相結合的技術。

This is exactly, not quite replicated, because it precedes that high-end technology.

這正是，但不完全是複製，因為它先於高端技術。

And chef just told me that they have about 60 tables, so it's very serendipitous and very efficient.

主廚剛剛告訴我，他們大約有 60 張桌子，所以這非常偶然，也非常高效。

And on the weekends, they sell up to 400 chickens.

而在週末，他們最多能賣出 400 只雞。

So every about 20 minutes or so, they need to rotate it.

是以，每隔 20 分鐘左右，他們就需要輪換一次。

If you look at the bottom of the pit, the water has basically all dissipated and now the drippings have begun to form.

如果你看看坑底，水基本上已經全部消散，現在已經開始形成渣滓。

So the chicken's only been in here for 20 minutes.

With a lot of these ancestral cooking techniques, the temperature regulation isn't with a thermometer and a dial.

很多祖傳的烹飪技術都不是用溫度計和刻度盤來調節溫度的。

Heat comes in from the bottom here via the wood.

He's controlling the burn rate by feeding more wood or letting it just turn into embers.

他通過喂入更多木柴或讓木柴變成餘燼來控制燃燒速度。

And on the other end, the output of the heat is controlled with the lid over the top.

而在另一端，熱量的輸出則由頂部的蓋子控制。

He has a little wooden plank, a little wooden brick.

他有一塊小木板，一塊小木磚。

But also as he opens that lid, he's gonna release the heat so that he can bring down the temperature.

但當他打開蓋子時，也會釋放熱量，從而降低溫度。

There are hot zones in the oven and the hottest area in the oven is the one that's closer by the pipe, towards the end there of the oven.

烤箱中有熱區，烤箱中最熱的區域是靠近管道的區域，也就是烤箱的末端。

So the chickens closest to the pipe will finish faster than the rest of the batch.

是以，最靠近管道的雞會比其他批次的雞完成得更快。

The thing is like every single time you go to kitchens where they're roasting whole animals and it's that elemental, a lot of it just comes down to experience and the monitoring of the day-to-day.

就像每次你去廚房烤整隻動物的時候，都會遇到這樣的問題，很多時候都是經驗和日常監督的結果。

I'm sure that the temperature of the climate is going to affect how it cooks that day.

我相信氣候的溫度會影響當天的烹飪效果。

I'm sure how often he feeds it, the quality of the wood, the wetness of the wood, all of those need to be adjusted on a day-to-day basis.

我敢肯定，他餵食的頻率、木材的品質、木材的溼度，所有這些都需要每天進行調整。

These restaurants aren't really scalable.

這些餐廳並不具備真正的可擴展性。

Because it's so reliant on the chef's skill.

Chef was telling us earlier, the perfect chicken has the skin puffed up, which is to say that all of that water inside of that chicken becomes steam, pushes the skin outwards so that it's a thinner membrane that then crisps and you know that you have chicken cooked properly.  Beautiful.

大廚之前告訴我們，完美的雞肉表皮是鼓起來的，也就是說，雞肉裡的水分都變成了蒸汽，把表皮向外推，這樣表皮就變成了一層薄薄的膜，然後就會變得酥脆，你就知道雞肉已經熟透了。  美極了

Everything that we lost by cooking it, we have retained.

烹飪它讓我們失去的一切，我們都保留了下來。

The first customers are starting to come in.

It's going to rest in that barrel in the back.

Some of it is going to the high temperature oven to crisp and the next batch of raw chicken goes straight back in to the first oven.

其中一部分要放入高溫烤箱烤脆，下一批生雞肉則直接放回第一個烤箱。

This skin is really like, it really reminds you of Peking duck.

This guy was slaughtered about 10 hours ago.

Quickly brined, it was like rubbed with salt basically.

快速滷製，基本上就像用鹽擦過一樣。

Low temperature, high temperature, roasts.

Just look at the glassiness of the skin, man.

看看這皮膚的玻璃質感，老兄。

It's like you can hear the skin just crackle.

你彷彿能聽到皮膚噼啪作響的聲音。

Traditionally when you see roast chicken in Chinese restaurants, they cut it with cleavers.

傳統上，中餐館裡的烤雞都是用菜刀切的。

But here because it's so piping hot, if you cut it with cleavers, the flesh falls apart.

但在這裡，由於它太燙，如果用菜刀切，肉就會散開。

So they use scissors to precisionally cut it.

於是，他們用剪刀精確地剪開。

Or you can get gloves and just tear away.

或者你也可以戴上手套，直接撕開。

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