Name: 不只是 Shein，為什麼現在的衣服都變得品質這麼差？ (It's Not Just Shein: Why Are ALL Your Clothes Worse Now?)
Uploaded: 2024-07-15T06:31:01.000Z
Duration: 19 min 35 s

I'm shopping at Abercrombie for the first time since I was in high school.

這是我上高中以來第一次去 Abercrombie 購物。

轉承詞

Mildly triggering because this was like the coolest store back in the day, but I could never afford it because my family's middle class.

有一點觸發，因為這家店在當時簡直是最酷的，但我卻永遠買不起，因為我家是中產階級。

Now that I'm here, I'm noticing two main things.

現在我在這裡主要注意到兩件事。

One is that everything is kind of affordable, which was definitely not the case in high school.

一是所有東西都很實惠，這在高中時絕對不是這樣。

The other thing that I'm noticing is that everything is just a little bit shittier than you would want it to be.

我注意到的另一件事是，所有東西都比你希望的要糟糕一些。

I'm seeing a lot of like loose threads on things and a lot of stuff that's just made out of 100% synthetic fabrics.

我看到很多東西的線頭都鬆了，還有很多東西都是用 100% 的合成纖維製成的。

The clothing just doesn't feel like this nice, firm, high quality that I associated with Abercrombie.

這些衣服給人的感覺並不像我印象中的 Abercrombie 那樣漂亮、結實、質量上乘。

Abercrombie still does sell some high quality clothing.

Abercrombie 仍在銷售一些高品質服裝。

Actually, I really like this dress and would totally buy it.

事實上，我真的很喜歡這條裙子，完全可以買下來。

And I'm glad they've decided to start using normal lighting in their stores, but seeing so much cheap and low quality stuff there made me wonder, did clothing used to be better when I was a teenager?

我很高興他們決定開始在店裡使用正常照明，但看到那麼多廉價低質的東西，我不禁要問，我十幾歲的時候，服裝是不是比現在好？

Not just at Abercrombie, but across the board.

不僅僅是在 Abercrombie，而是在整個行業。

So I scoured eBay, Depop, and Poshmark for clothes from trusted brands of the 90s and 2000s.

於是，我在 eBay、Depop 和 Poshmark 上搜索 90 年代和 2000 年代值得信賴的品牌服裝。

Then I went to those same stores and bought the 2024 version of each item.

然後，我又去那些商店買了 2024 年版的每件物品。

Abercrombie was like legendary for really high quality denim.

Abercrombie 就像是傳說中的高品質牛仔褲。

我得到了阿曼達-麥卡蒂的幫助。

I worked as a buyer in the fashion industry for about 20 years.

我在時裝業做了大約 20 年的採購員。

我看到我們賣給人們的東西是如何改變的。

The two major changes, I would say, are one, nothing fits properly anymore.

我認為，兩個主要變化是：第一，沒有什麼東西再適合了。

And two, the longevity of these clothes, even how you feel when you put them on, has degraded so much.

其次，這些衣服的壽命，甚至你穿上它們時的感覺，都大大降低了。

It has gotten harder to find quality clothes that last, even at brands you used to like.

即使是你以前喜歡的品牌，也越來越難找到經久耐用的優質服裝。

如果你想知道為什麼，請繼續觀看。

I want you to think about how many new pieces of clothing you bought last year.

我希望你們想想去年買了多少件新衣服。

If you're anything like the average American, it was around 68.

如果你和普通美國人一樣，那就是 68 歲左右。

In the 80s, Americans spent about 7% of their annual income on clothes.

上世紀 80 年代，美國人將年收入的 7% 用於購買服裝。

We spend half as much, even though we're buying five times more.

雖然我們買的東西比別人多五倍，但我們花的錢只有別人的一半。

This Abercrombie ad from the 80s helps explain why.

這則 80 年代的 Abercrombie 廣告解釋了其中的原因。

The high quality wool was a huge selling point.

They even tell you exactly where it's from.

他們甚至會告訴你它的確切產地。

And notice how they say this is part of their fall collection?

注意到他們說這是秋季系列的一部分嗎？

Because in the 80s and 90s, stores only had new clothes a couple times a year, usually a spring-summer collection and a fall-winter collection.

因為在上世紀八九十年代，商店每年只推出幾次新款服裝，通常是春夏系列和秋冬系列。

And designers would start working on each collection up to nine months in advance, because clothing production takes a lot of work.

設計師會提前九個月開始設計每個系列，因為服裝製作需要大量的工作。

They had to think of hundreds of unique designs and whittle them down to the dozen or so best ones, send the designs to the factory, go back and forth with them for months to create a prototype, choose the best fabric, the right embellishments, and figure out the proportions for different sizes.

他們必須想出數百種獨特的設計，然後篩選出十幾種最好的設計，將設計寄給工廠，與工廠反覆溝通數月，以製作出原型，選擇最好的面料和合適的裝飾，並確定不同尺寸的比例。

After all that, they'd place a massive order with the factory and then just pray the design would sell.

做完這一切後，他們會向工廠下一大筆訂單，然後祈禱設計能賣出去。

You'd place two huge bets per year, and if your styles flopped, you'd be stuck with a whole bunch of clothes you'd have to sell at a discount or just throw away.

你每年會下兩次大賭注，如果你的款式不成功，你就會被一大堆衣服纏住，不得不打折出售或直接扔掉。

That risk is why so much care and thoughtfulness went into making each piece of clothing and why you could expect quality at every price point.

正因為存在這種風險，所以每件衣服的製作都是如此精心和周到，也正因為如此，你可以期待每個價位的衣服都能有高品質。

Even discount stores like Sears or JCPenney.

即使是西爾斯或 JCPenney 這樣的折扣店也不例外。

Just look at the way JCPenney advertised their suits in this ad from the 80s.

看看 JCPenney 在 80 年代的這則廣告中宣傳西裝的方式就知道了。

Two-piece suits that are expertly tailored, classically designed, and have an elegant touch.

兩件式西裝剪裁考究，設計經典，盡顯優雅氣質。

They're not selling you on the price or the trendiness, but on the craftsmanship and design.

他們不是以價格或時尚為賣點，而是以工藝和設計為賣點。

Even one of the cheaper suits on the market was still pretty high quality, which is probably why if you adjust for inflation, this $160 suit would cost $600 today.

即使是市場上比較便宜的西裝，品質也相當高，這可能就是為什麼如果根據通貨膨脹率進行調整，這套價值 160 美元的西裝今天的價格為 600 美元。

If you go to JCPenney now, you can easily get a two-piece suit for under $200.

如果你現在去 JCPenney，花不到 200 美元就能輕鬆買到一套兩件套西裝。

So in the 80s and 90s, people were buying fewer clothes, but they'd be well-made pieces that would be worn for years.

是以，在上世紀八九十年代，人們買的衣服越來越少，但都是做工精良、可以穿好幾年的衣服。

And keeping up with all the trends, well, that was something only wealthy people could do.

而緊跟潮流，只有富人才能做到。

Pull the latest brionis and charge them to our account.

把最新的布里奧尼拉到我們的賬戶上。

Six months of my car payments plus a car.

Then came a little store called Zara, and everything began to change.

後來，一家名為 Zara 的小店出現了，一切都開始發生變化。

The New York Times coined the term fast fashion in this 1989 article about the first US store of Zara.

紐約時報》在 1989 年發表的這篇關於 Zara 美國首家分店的文章中創造了快速時尚一詞。

The latest trend is what we're after, a Zara executive told the Times.

Zara 的一位高管告訴《泰晤士報》，我們追求的是最新潮流。

It takes 15 days between a new idea and getting it into the stores.

從有一個新想法到把它送進商店，需要 15 天的時間。

Remember, that took most stores nine months.

請記住，這花了大多數商店九個月的時間。

Zara 是如何在 15 天內做到這一點的？

By streamlining this part of the production process with something called Greige Goods.

通過使用一種叫做 "格調商品 "的東西來簡化這部分生產流程。

Zara built their own high-tech factories in Spain, all connected to headquarters by an underground monorail.

Zara 在西班牙建立了自己的高科技工廠，所有工廠都通過地下單軌鐵路與總部相連。

There, robots working around the clock cut and dye fabrics to create unfinished, uncolored pieces that can be turned into any garment.

在那裡，機器人晝夜不停地對布料進行剪裁和染色，製成未加工、未上色的布料，可以製成任何服裝。

Once a design is created, Zara can send those Greige Goods to their network of small shops in nearby regions where they're transformed into finished dresses, trousers, and tops.

設計完成後，Zara 可以將這些 Greige Goods 送到附近地區的小商店網絡中，在那裡變成成品的裙子、褲子和上衣。

Zara makes a small batch of each style to start with.

Zara 每種款式都會先做一小批。

The retail stores can then send feedback to headquarters about what's selling and what's not, and they can quickly ramp up production on whatever's popular, restocking within days if needed.

然後，零售店可以向總部反饋哪些產品暢銷，哪些產品滯銷，總部可以迅速提高受歡迎產品的產量，並在需要時於數天內重新進貨。

It massively reduced the risk that came with clothing production.

它大大降低了服裝生產的風險。

Instead of losing money on clearance sales or throwing away unsold goods,

而不是在清倉大拋售中損失金錢或扔掉未售出的商品、

Zara 的款式通常很快就會售罄。

The designers don't have to predict trends a year in advance.

設計師不必提前一年預測流行趨勢。

They can just respond to fashion trends as they emerge, though sometimes that gets a little sketchy.

他們可以順應時尚潮流的發展，儘管有時這有點草率。

For example, here's a look from the high fashion designer Celine from a collection that debuted on the Vogue runway in 2013.

例如，以下是高級時裝設計師 Celine 2013 年在《Vogue》時裝秀上首次亮相的系列造型。

This skirt would have retailed for at least $1,000, and here's a very similar-looking skirt selling on Zara's website for just $80.

這條裙子的零售價至少在 1000 美元以上，而 Zara 網站上一條非常相似的裙子售價僅為 80 美元。

Zara had this skirt for sale by August, which would have been just a few weeks after Celine's version landed in boutiques.

Zara 在 8 月份就開始銷售這款裙子，這與 Celine 的裙子登陸精品店僅相隔幾周時間。

These runway knockoffs and how quickly Zara could get them into stores were wildly popular.

這些天橋上的山寨貨，以及 Zara 能以如此快的速度將它們送進商店，受到了瘋狂的追捧。

By August 2008, Zara's parent company, Inditex, became the world's largest fashion retailer.

2008 年 8 月，Zara 的母公司 Inditex 成為全球最大的時裝零售商。

This is also when you had the rise of two other fast fashion giants of the new millennium,

新千年的另外兩家快時尚巨頭也是在這個時候崛起的、

Forever 21 and H&M, which pioneered a new way to bring the runway to the masses.

Forever 21 和 H&M，開創了一種將時裝秀帶入大眾生活的新方式。

They'd partner with luxury designers to make exclusive lines for H&M at affordable prices, starting with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004.

從 2004 年卡爾-拉格斐開始，他們與奢侈品設計師合作，以合理的價格為 H&M 設計獨家系列。

This part of the story, it seems sort of like a win for the 99%.

這部分故事，似乎有點像 99% 的人的勝利。

Fast fashion was making it so that anyone could wear runway designs while they were still popular.

快時尚讓任何人都能在天橋設計流行的時候穿上它們。

Of course, encouraging lots of consumers to buy low cost clothes that would go out of style quickly would shockingly have some downsides too, but we'll come back to that.

當然，鼓勵大量消費者購買很快就會過時的低價服裝也會帶來一些令人震驚的弊端，但我們會再討論這個問題。

Because we can't give the minds behind Zara and H&M all the credit for the rise of fast fashion.

因為我們不能把快速時尚的興起全部歸功於 Zara 和 H&M 背後的頭腦。

We also have to give some credit to Bill Clinton?

In 1994, President Clinton signed NAFTA, the North American Free Trade Agreement, which made it cheaper to make clothes in Mexico.

1994 年，克林頓總統簽署了《北美自由貿易協定》（NAFTA），這使得在墨西哥生產服裝變得更加便宜。

And a few years later, he normalized trade relations with China.

幾年後，他與中國實現了貿易關係正常化。

Textile factories started moving out of the U.S.

because now clothing retailers had access to the largest pool of cheap labor in human history.

因為現在，服裝零售商可以獲得人類歷史上最大量的廉價勞動力。

Luckily, there was a law from the 70s, the Multifiber Arrangement, which limited how much clothing American and European countries could import from other nations.

幸運的是，70 年代有一項法律，即《多纖維安排》，限制了美國和歐洲國家從其他國家進口服裝的數量。

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不只是 Shein，為什麼現在的衣服都變得品質這麼差？ (It's Not Just Shein: Why Are ALL Your Clothes Worse Now?)

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