Name: Carhartt 的困境：底特律夾克的殞落？ (The Problem With Carhartt ( The Death Of The Detroit Jacket))
Uploaded: 2026-03-09T23:34:45.000Z
Duration: 12 min 27 s

If you're like me, you've probably been familiar with the Carhartt brand for a long time, but

如果你跟我一樣，應該對 Carhartt 這個牌子很熟悉了，但是

頻率副詞

maybe you've never bought any of their products or you've just never bought the Detroit jacket and you're not familiar with it.

可能你從來沒買過他們的任何產品，或者你只是從來沒買過 Detroit jacket，對它不熟。

to 不定詞

Obviously, if you're in Canada, Carhartt is kind of hard to come by.

顯然，如果你在加拿大，Carhartt 其實有點難入手。

So I'm going to go over the history briefly and I'm also going to explain to you why it's so hard to get a good looking Carhartt Detroit jacket today.

所以我會簡單講一下它的歷史，也會跟你解釋為什麼現在要買一件好看的 Carhartt Detroit jacket 這麼難。

This guy, Anthony Dillolo, breaks it down perfectly in the Carhartt Reddit.

這位 Anthony Dillolo 在 Carhartt Reddit 上把它講得非常透徹。

So just to give a brief history, it debuted in 1954 and it was actually originally in blue denim, which is weird because nobody thinks about the Detroit jacket being in blue denim.

簡單講一下歷史，它在 1954 年首次亮相，最初其實是藍色丹寧布的，這很奇怪，因為沒人會想到 Detroit jacket 是藍色丹寧的。

Now it's most popular probably in its brown color.

現在它最受歡迎的顏色應該是棕色。

I'd say it's, you know, original Carhartt brown, or what it's called today, I think is Hamilton Brown on the website.

我會說，你知道，就是經典的 Carhartt 棕，或者現在網站上叫的，我想是 Hamilton Brown。

But I'll show you the first model that is the blueprint for what is popular today.

但我會給你看第一款模型，這就是現在受歡迎的藍圖。

So over here you've got the six blj and you can see it's got that classic collar, the classic fit.

所以這邊你看到 six blj，你可以看到它有經典的領子，經典的版型。

It's got the straight bottom, the sleeves are the right length, and

它的下擺是直的，袖子長度也很剛好，

it's not a tailored fit, it's a little bit of a looser fit, but

而且它不是合身的，是比較寬鬆一點的版型，但

it's something you could fit a hoodie under.

And it'll keep you warm in the fall, might keep warm depending where you are in the winter.

秋天穿它會很暖，冬天看你在哪裡，也可能夠暖。

And overall, it's just a perfect classic jacket that was probably released for a fair price back in the day.

總之，它就是一件完美的經典夾克，以前價格應該也很實在。

And I'm sure since it was classic Carhartt, it had good durability and it lasted a super long time.

而且我確定因為是經典的 Carhartt，它很耐穿，可以用超久。

So after that in 1998 came the J43, and it had a short life.

所以之後在 1998 年推出了 J43，但它的壽命很短。

Here are three of the debut colors, with the coolest one, in my opinion, being hunter green.

這裡有三種最初推出的顏色，我個人覺得最酷的是 hunter green。

Obviously, I'll never find this in a thrift store because I live in a popular area that's also in Canada.

很明顯，我住的地方在加拿大，而且是個熱門區域，所以在二手店裡我永遠找不到這件。

So Carhartt wasn't widely available where I'm at.

所以 Carhartt 在我住的地方不太普及。

It's got the same classic shape, but it had that sandstone wash to it.

它有著一樣的經典版型，但它有那種 sandstone wash 的處理。

So had a little bit more of a worn look to it.

And yeah, same basic shape and something that I would definitely want to own that I'm sure costs about $350 resale right now.

而且對，基本上就是一樣的版型，而且是我絕對想擁有的東西，我確定現在二手價大概要 350 美元。

So basically something that I'll never be able to own and something that Carhartt discontinued in 2000, which is the same year I was born.

所以基本上這是我永遠不可能擁有的東西，而且是 Carhartt 在 2000 年停產的款式，那年我剛好出生。

And here's definitely the most popular Carhartt jacket.

而且這是最受歡迎的 Carhartt 夾克。

You've seen it in Interstellar, you've seen it in Looper, you're going to see it in Reacher this year.

你在《Interstellar》、《Looper》裡都看過它，今年在《Reacher》裡也會看到。

當然我叫不出全部的名字，但是

a bunch of different browns, bunch of different shades, bunch of different color colors.

有好多種不同的棕色，好多種不同的色調，好多種不同的顏色。

And it's got the same classic style, same straight cut bottom with the normal sleeve length.

而且它有著一樣的經典風格，一樣的直筒下擺，正常的袖長。

Still not tailored, which is good, you know, if you want to put a hoodie under it and if you want to wear it in the winter, layered.

還是沒有剪裁，這很好，你知道，如果你想在裡面穿帽 T，或者冬天想層層疊疊地穿。

So, you know, you'd think if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

所以，你知道，你會覺得，既然沒壞就不用修。

But obviously Carhartt had different plans.

Do you think everything is fine with the J97?

There's been 19 years of no problems, but Carhartt decides to discontinue it.

19 年來都沒有問題，但 Carhartt 決定停產它。

There's not really a good reason to do this.

One of the things they cite is that a lot of people were ordering it in the tall size.

他們引用的其中一點是，很多人訂購了長版尺寸。

So they're saying that maybe the jacket was too short.

所以他們說，也許這件夾克太短了。

And then they prepare to make a new jacket.

然後他們準備製作一件新夾克。

I don't know if there was a pause in between manufacturing.

我不知道製造中間有沒有停頓。

I wasn't aware of the Detroit jacket back then, but

那時候我還不知道 Detroit jacket，但是

I'm going to get into the model that followed the J97 and the current model that exists today.

我要來介紹 J97 後面的那個款式，還有現在這個現行的款式。

You know, it's a good jacket when it has a name that just rolls off the tongue like this.

說真的，一件夾克如果它的名字唸起來很順口，那就是一件好夾克。

You've got the 103828 Detroit Jack from Carhartt.

你看到這件 Carhartt 的 103828 Detroit Jack。

I'm assuming this is the new factory they've went to.

I don't know what third world country this was made in, but here's the two main colorways.

我不知道這是哪個第三世界國家做的，但這裡有兩種主要的顏色。

The blanket lining feels super thin now, but they said that it's actually softer.

現在鋪棉摸起來超薄的，但他們說其實更柔軟。

Well, I'm sure the blanket lining is going to be softer when it's, you know, as thin as paper.

嗯，我確定鋪棉會更柔軟，你知道的，就像紙一樣薄。

But regardless of that, you've got the two models here.

但不管怎樣，你這裡有兩種款式。

你可以看到它的剪裁薄了很多。

The sleeves are super thin and they're too long.

It just looks cheaper, the material is thinner.

它看起來就是比較廉價，材質也比較薄。

And we'll go into a little bit more detail in the next slide.

我們會在下一張投影片講得更詳細一點。

Yeah, so you hear you say, I'll reiterate, you got the longer sleeves, you got that softer blanket lining that's actually just shit material.

對，所以你聽到我說，我再說一次，你的袖子比較長，你那種比較柔軟的毯子內襯，其實只是很爛的材質。

And then you've got my biggest fucking issue with this jacket.

然後你還有我對這件夾克最他媽的問題。

And it's the dumb ass, ugly diaper ass drop tail.

然後就是這個笨蛋、醜陋的尿布式下擺。

I don't know why the fuck they added this.

我不知道他們為什麼要加這個。

I don't know why anybody would want this in their jacket.

我不知道為什麼有人會在他們的夾克上加這個。

I guess it's the argument that the last model everybody was ordering in tall so they wanted to make sure that nobody had a problem with the length of this jacket.

我猜是因為上一款大家都在訂購長版，所以他們想確保沒有人會對這件夾克的長度有意見。

So they added a fucking diaper wing to the back of it.

所以他們在後面加了個該死的尿布翅膀。

It looks almost like a combination of those T shirts that were trendy in like 2013, you know, with the ones that have the tails on the back.

它看起來幾乎像是 2013 年流行的那種 T 恤的組合，你知道，後面有長尾巴的。

It's a mix between that and a jacket and it's just terrible.

它是介於那種和夾克之間的混合體，真的太糟糕了。

Why would he want a jacket that has a frickin cape on the back?

為什麼他會想要一件後面有披風的夾克？

So the quality's worse, the sleeves are longer, it's got a worse design, it's got a diaper on the back and it costs $15 more than the last model cost retail.

所以品質更差，袖子更長，設計更糟，後面還像尿布一樣，而且售價比上一款零售價還貴 15 美元。

我覺得現在加拿大賣 135 美元。

I don't know what that works out to, I'm bad at math.

我不知道換算起來是多少，我數學很爛。

But obviously it's stupid that a jacket that's clearly made of worse quality in a worse manufacturing plant is going to cost you 15 additional dollars.

但很明顯，一件品質明顯更差、在更差的工廠製造的夾克，竟然要多花你 15 美元，這真的很蠢。

So now you're in my original position, you've realized that the new Carhartt jackets suck and that the old ones are very hard to get your hands on.

所以現在你就跟我當初一樣，發現新的 Carhartt 夾克很爛，而舊款又很難買到。

You go on grail and you spend $300 on a destroyed thrifted one that somebody probably died in and that looks like somebody might have dropped their bodily fluids onto.

你跑去 Grailed 花 300 美元買一件破爛的二手，而且上面可能還有人死過，看起來也像是有體液噴濺過的。

So I went and walked my way over to the other Carhartt brand, also known as Carhartt work in progress.

所以我繞道去了另一個 Carhartt 品牌，也就是 Carhartt work in progress。

And I'm not really familiar with the history of this brand.

我對這個品牌的歷史其實不太熟。

I know it's like the streetwear version of normal Carhartt.

我知道它比較像是一般 Carhartt 的街頭潮流版本。

I've heard that the durability isn't quite the same, but the style is significantly better now.

聽說耐用度沒那麼一樣，但風格現在好很多。

I've never been inside a Carhartt work in progress store.

我從來沒進去過 Carhartt work in progress 的店。

But just based off the prices, I've made a picture of what I assume it looks like.

不過光看價錢，我就大概想像了一下裡面長什麼樣子。

So you walk yourself over to the Carhartt work in progress store and everything is looking amazing.

所以你就走進 Carhartt work in progress 的店，裡面的一切看起來都超讚。

The jacket's got a very close to original design.

這件夾克的設計跟原版非常接近。