Name: 雲爆浪可能是世界上最好的浪--原因如下 (Cloudbreak Is Probably the Best Wave in the World – Here’s Why)
Uploaded: 2025-09-24T07:18:13.000Z
Duration: 15 min 11 s

The first time I ever surfed Cloudbreak was in the late 80s.

我第一次衝浪是在上世紀 80 年代末。

程度副詞

I got so worked, but I got a couple of the best rolls I ever got, ever.

我忙得不可開交，但我還是得到了幾個最棒的卷子。

And I literally just thought I'd die, went straight to heaven.

我真的以為我死了，直接上了天堂。

I'm like, oh my god, this is, I never want to leave Fiji.

我想，天哪，我再也不想離開斐濟了。

Cloudbreak for me, I think it's probably, I think it's just the best wave in the world.

對我來說，雲碎浪可能是世界上最好的浪。

It's belly answering right back into this drainer.

它的腹部又回到了這個排水器中。

It's literally like hundreds of waves all wrapped into one.

簡直就像數百個波浪包在一起。

When you look at it in all its different personalities, and you think about how it's set up to receive swell and be offshore in the prevailing winds, it's just made to be surfed.

當你看到它的所有不同個性，想想它是如何在盛行風中接受海浪和離岸的，它就是為衝浪而生的。

I'm sitting here on Taurua Island, Fiji, off the southwestern corner of the Fiji Island chain.

我現在坐在斐濟的陶魯阿島上，這裡位於斐濟島鏈的西南角。

Looking right now, directly south, is Cloudbreak, or traditionally called the Kurukuru Milangi, about a mile off of us.

現在向正南方望去，就是離我們大約一英里遠的 "斷雲"（Cloudbreak），也就是傳統上所說的 "庫魯庫魯米朗基"（Kurukuru Milangi）。

And Cloudbreak's amazingly consistent for tons of reasons.

而 "雲端突破 "的一致性令人驚歎，原因有很多。

One is it basically sits almost exactly on the southwestern corner of the Fiji Island group, so it can get waves from high-up storms that form right off of Australia and move over, to swells generated all the way off the Antarctic ice cap, which, you know, is thousands of miles away.

其中一個原因是，它幾乎正好位於斐濟島群的西南角，是以它可以接收到從澳洲附近形成並移動過來的高空風暴，到南極冰蓋附近產生的海浪，你知道，那是在數千英里之外。

There's no real true off-season for Cloudbreak.

對於《雲中歌》來說，沒有真正意義上的淡季。

It can get waves year-round, but it's most consistent from roughly April through October.

這裡一年四季都會有海浪，但大約從四月到十月的海浪最為穩定。

That's when we see the strongest storms down in the Southern Ocean that also move up into the Tasman Sea, which are the storms that are going to deliver the swells that we're looking for for Cloudbreak.

這時，我們會在南大洋看到最強的風暴，這些風暴也會進入塔斯曼海。

The deep latitudes of the Southern Ocean are probably the most cyclonically active place on Earth.

南大洋的深緯度地區可能是地球上氣旋最活躍的地方。

In the winter, it's almost non-stop activity.

在冬季，這裡的活動幾乎不間斷。

Most of those storms are going to move from west to east in the Southern Ocean, just kind of all along that line, and it can be producing waves that entire time that's going to push up towards Fiji.

大部分風暴都會在南大洋自西向東移動，沿著這條線移動，整個過程中都會產生海浪，推向斐濟。

The south-southwest to southwest swell window for Cloudbreak starts at about 195, 196 degrees.

Cloudbreak 的西南至西南涌浪窗口從大約 195 度和 196 度處開始。

溫度達到 217 度時又會出現堵塞。

All the best swells are going to be somewhere like 195 to 215, roughly.

所有最好的浪頭大致都在 195 到 215 之間。

It just gets more and more square and intense.

它變得越來越方正，越來越激烈。

It'll make it really, really feel the bottom.

這會讓它真正地、真正地感覺到底部。

Let's say you're looking for perfect Cloudbreak that is solid but not crazy, like double-overhead Cloudbreak.

比方說，您正在尋找完美的 "破雲"，它堅實而不瘋狂，就像雙頭 "破雲"。

It's like a really strong storm that would be roughly south of Western Australia, up into the mouth of the Tasman Seas.

這就像一場真正的強風暴，大致會在西澳大利亞南部，直到塔斯曼海的入海口。

Cloudbreak is best on long-period swells, so 16 seconds or greater.

長週期湧浪（16 秒或以上）最適合使用 "破雲"。

You need the storms to have a little bit of oomph, probably 30 to 35-foot seas at a minimum.

你需要風暴有一點衝擊力，可能至少有 30 至 35 英尺的海浪。

The resulting swell may be like a 3-foot swell, but it's long-period, 17, 18, 19 seconds, and it doesn't take much swell to produce big surf at Cloudbreak.

由此產生的海浪可能只有 3 英尺，但週期很長，有 17 秒、18 秒、19 秒，不需要太大的海浪就能在 Cloudbreak 形成大浪。

Cloudbreak The interesting thing about Cloudbreak versus a wave like Chobu or some of these other reef passes is that really Cloudbreak is a giant shelf that comes off of it and goes out about, I don't know, half a mile, even a mile out.

雲爆浪 雲爆浪與 Chobu 或其他礁石通道的浪潮相比，有趣的是，雲爆浪其實是一個巨大的陸架，從雲層上脫落，然後向外延伸，我不知道是半英里還是一英里。

It literally just drops off 2,000 feet and bends around.

從字面上看，它就是從 2000 英尺高的地方掉下來，然後彎來彎去。

So it really grabs the wave and then amplifies the wave itself.

是以，它能真正抓住波浪，然後放大波浪本身。

As these ideally long-period swells are approaching Fiji, the reef at Cloudbreak is just perfectly positioned and tapered to produce just a long, peeling wave.

當這些理想的長週期浪潮接近斐濟時，雲霧灘的礁石位置恰到好處，其錐形設計正好能產生長長的、剝落的海浪。

Essentially, it's like an underwater point.

So instead of this abrupt, super-heavy slab like Chobu, you end up with more of a defined ledge.

是以，你最終看到的不是像 Chobu 那樣突兀、超重的石板，而是更清晰的壁架。

And as it bends, you could have a wave that looks like a big, giant closeout, but it doesn't close out.

當它彎曲時，你可能會看到一個看起來像一個巨大的閉合波浪，但它並沒有閉合。

So it's going to just continuously wrap and wrap and wrap and come around and sets up a 200-300-meter-long wave that, on the best day, it's flawless.

是以，它會不斷地纏繞、纏繞、纏繞，形成一個 200-300 米長的波浪，在最好的天氣裡，它是完美無瑕的。

Anytime you're surfing over a tropical reef, it is going to be shallow.

任何時候在熱帶珊瑚礁上衝浪，水都會很淺。

Where you take off, it's actually not too shallow, depending on the size of the wave.

在你起飛的地方，實際上並不太淺，這取決於海浪的大小。

It could be a few feet to 12 or 15 feet deep right where you take off, but it can get very shallow very quickly as you move in on the reef.

你起飛的地方可能有幾英尺到 12 或 15 英尺深，但隨著你向珊瑚礁移動，水會很快變淺。

The inside section is called shish kebabs.

Appropriately named because there's a lot of staghorn coral that will stick up sporadically.

這個名字很貼切，因為有很多鹿角珊瑚會零星地伸出來。

And it's kind of where the whole wave kind of closes out on the reef in like six inches of a foot of water.

整個波浪在礁石上收攏，水深在六英寸到一英尺之間。

And shish kebabs can be super fun to ride, you know, when the tide's right and the swell conditions and everything.

要知道，當潮汐和海浪條件都合適的時候，"涮羊肉串 "也是非常有趣的。

But yeah, you can get into trouble down there.

但是，是的，你在下面會遇到麻煩。

When it starts getting six to eight feet, it hits a section which I call the ledge way back in the day because literally it comes in, looks like a big closeout, but it just literally hits the bottom perfectly and just squares out.

當水位開始上升到六到八英尺時，就會遇到一段我稱之為 "臺階 "的地方，因為從字面上看，它進來的時候，看起來就像一個巨大的收口，但它卻完美地觸及底部，然後就會呈正方形。

And if it's a big enough swell and a long enough interval, it goes to the next ledge out, which is second reef.

如果海浪足夠大，間隔時間足夠長，就會衝到下一個臺階，也就是第二個礁石。

And that's technically an even more perfect wave than first ledge.

從技術上講，這是一個比第一個壁架更完美的波浪。

And then beyond that, it's kind of what I call the third ledge.

除此之外，就是我所說的第三個臺階。

I think everyone's kind of seen some photos of that and videos.

我想大家都看過一些照片和視頻。

The thing that comes to mind is the Volcom swell.

You know, there's been a ton of memorable swells at Cloudbreak over the years.

要知道，多年來，雲霧灘曾出現過許多令人難忘的浪潮。

And I think the one that has become the measuring stick was the Volcom swell in 2012.

我認為成為衡量標準的是 2012 年的 Volcom 浪潮。

You know, it just happened to fall during the Volcom Fiji Pro window.

要知道，這天正好是 Volcom 斐濟職業賽的窗口期。

First wave ridden and it's a gigantic freight trainer.

第一次乘浪，它是一個巨大的貨運列車。

The wind was a little funky, like light north wind crumble, which fits six foot.

風有點怪，像輕微的北風碎屑，適合六英尺高的人。

Not too big a deal when it's like growing by the set and it's 12, 15, whatever foot.

如果是按套長，12 英尺、15 英尺什麼的，也沒什麼大不了的。

So they called the event like, okay, that's it.

於是，他們就把這次活動稱為 "好吧，就這樣吧"。

And then everyone kept surfing and then everyone went back, grabbed big boards.

然後每個人都繼續衝浪，然後每個人都回去，拿著大沖浪板。

And then I think by sunset, it was like, I mean, it was like next level, right?

到了日落時分，我覺得，我的意思是，這就像一個新的水準，對不對？

When you got on them, they were just these big giant chops going across the face that you can't see, you know, and the pictures all look perfect, but it's a different situation when you're out there.

當你騎在它們身上時，它們就像這些巨大的劈頭蓋臉的劈砍，你看不到，你知道，照片看起來都很完美，但當你在那裡時，情況就不一樣了。

The third reef waves were just like below sea level and literally like chunks of reef coming up from them, even though it was like 80 feet deep.

第三塊礁石的波浪就像低於海平面一樣，簡直就像大塊大塊的礁石從上面湧上來，儘管水深有 80 英尺。

The tide dropped and that north wind just laid down and it, you know, went kind of light variable.

潮水退去，北風驟起，風向變幻莫測。

Just all the stars aligned to set up like the biggest, most perfect cloud break I've ever seen.

所有的星星都在為我所見過的最大、最完美的雲層斷裂做準備。

這簡直是有史以來最大的桶了。

哦，我的天哪，看看這個東西。

夥計們越來越多了，小心點，寶貝。

You know, we don't have a buoy right off the top of the reef, so you can't measure the exact size, but I think we estimated it to be like 13 to 14 feet, about 19 seconds.

我們在礁石頂上沒有浮標，所以無法測量確切的大小，但我想我們估計有 13 到 14 英尺，大約 19 秒鐘。

Big, long period, great direction, southwest, 205, 210 degree swell.

浪大、週期長、方向好，西南方向，浪高 205、210 度。

I mean, to this day, that wave that caught Healy inside is still I think the single most impressive wave I've ever seen.

我的意思是，直到今天，那個把希利捲入其中的浪花，仍然是我見過的最令人印象深刻的浪花。

Just to see the size and the perfection together was, it was eye-opening to me.

僅僅是看到它的大小和完美程度，就讓我大開眼界。

I think it was eye-opening probably to the surf world.

我想，這大概是衝浪世界的一次大開眼界。

You know, if it's not the best day of big wave surfing ever, it's certainly in the conversation.

要知道，即使這不是史上最精彩的大浪衝浪日，也絕對可以稱得上是。

So Dave Clark, who's the founder of Taburu, he always kind of famously says, you surf the conditions, you don't surf the swell.

戴夫-克拉克（Dave Clark）是塔布魯的創始人，他常說的一句名言是："你衝浪是為了適應環境，而不是為了衝浪。

Best wind for cloud break is trade winds, which are predominantly southeast.

雲層破碎的最佳風向是信風，主要是東南風。