Name: 世界一高い山、エベレスト登頂までの身体的危険を解説 | WIRED Japan
Uploaded: 2025-02-21T09:46:24.000Z
Duration: 8 min 41 s
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第二類條件句型

If you took somebody from sea level to the top of Everest, no supplemental oxygen, no support, they would be unconscious within minutes.

程度副詞

Everest is a very inhospitable environment.

Hundreds of people attempt to summit Everest every year during a small once-a-year window that weather allows.

Not everyone makes it, and 2023 was an especially fatal year.

So there are a number of things that can kill you on Mount Everest.

You fall into the mountain, you fall off the mountain, the mountain falls on you.

But because it's the highest and because people like to check boxes, it's popular.

I think with more inexperienced people, that's a problem.

She's a mountaineering guide and a doctor trained in wilderness emergencies, particularly at altitude.

She's summited Everest three times in each of the tallest peaks on all seven continents.

Starting at base camp, she'll break down the physical dangers that climbers face all the way to the top.

So this is Everest base camp, around 17,500 feet.

You've already lost half of your oxygen, so 2,500 meters.

That's when you would start to see changes.

So acute mountain sickness is not unusual here.

People do get high-altitude pulmonary edema and high-altitude cerebral edema here as well.

People also get GI problems because there are a lot of people living here.

So it's not unusual for people to get nausea, vomiting, diarrhea.

That's probably one of the biggest problems at base camp is just sanitation.

And a lot of people fly in and then come up the valley and get GI bugs.

The Khumbu Icefall is a constantly moving frozen river creating deep and wide crevasses.

It was also the site of a deadly avalanche that killed 16 in 2014.

The Khumbu Icefall is a steep area of lots of broken ice, lots of crevasses and seracs.

And the biggest problem here is that ice will fall on you or you will fall in a crevasse.

It's really difficult because there's no place to land a helicopter because you need a flat space.

You could pick somebody off with a short-haul rescue but it's unlikely that you're gonna do that.

No matter what part of the mountain climbers are on, proper gear is essential, not just for staying warm but for survival.

Here's some of Emily's essential gear bag.

So here's some of the standard gear that we use on Everest.

Here's some big mittens and they're so big that you actually wear another pair of gloves underneath.

This is that harness that I wear at high altitude.

You have this thing, we call it a crab claw and it's connected to the harness.

And we have crampons, spikes that you put on your feet.

And some gear can save your life or kill you.

So this is my ice axe, pretty standard ice axe for glacier travel.

One of the ways we use the ice axe, it's not so much, it's not a walking stick, it's more to stop yourself.

So what you do is you turn over and you get in anchor position.

You try to get this into the snow to slow yourself down or stop yourself.

And one of the reasons there's no wrist loop on here is if you fall and it's attached to you with a wrist loop and you lose control of the axe, wow, that's not a good situation.

Camp 3 is a 30-degree snow slope with rocky exposed ledges.

We go up the western comb to Camp 2, which is about 21,000 feet, 21,500 feet.

From here, we go up the Lhotse face to Camp 3, which is on the Lhotse face.

One of the big problems going from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is that's a big jump at a high altitude.

And so maybe somebody who's had a little bit of acute mountain sickness, they've been kind of ignoring it, and they're like, yeah, it's just altitude, I don't feel that good.

High-altitude pulmonary edema, high-altitude cerebral edema are our greatest concerns, and they're not easy to diagnose.

High-altitude pulmonary edema, particularly, it's a continuum of brain swelling.

And this brain swelling is caused by a number of things.

One thing is when your brain gets hypoxic, it opens up the blood flow to the brain.

And the way it kills you is your brain is a walnut in a shell, right?

The only way for your brain to get out of the shell is to go down through the bottom of your skull, which is not compatible with life.

What happens sometimes, though, you get to Camp 3, it's super windy, it's in a dangerous spot, you can't go down because it's too dangerous.

So then you have to treat them while they're there.

We have to use a portable hyperbaric chamber called a Gamow bag.

It's airtight, so it's tough if they're claustrophobic or vomiting or whatever.

And then you hook the pump up and you pump it up so that the pressure inside the bag simulates being at a lower altitude from a physiologic standpoint.

And you have to pump it 10 to 20 times a minute so that they get fresh air in there and their carbon dioxide gets expelled.

You can't just leave somebody in one of these bags because they would suffocate.

So I'm filling the bag with air right now and then I'll overfill it and that is what will simulate altitude.

If you're going to rescue somebody, you can help lower them with the straps that are attached to the outside.

Camp 4 is the last stop before the summit.

In the world, there are very few human habitations above 16,000 feet because you just can't keep up.

Now all of a sudden you're at 26,000 feet.

If you cut yourself, you don't heal very well.

So you're definitely in the zone where your body can't keep up.

And on summit day, from the south call to the summit, people are driving themselves really hard.

They typically haven't been eating and drinking very well.

One, just environmentally, the atmosphere, there's less oxygen.

And then two, they're tired from this whole process.

Between 1921 and 2006, 56% of deaths occurred during the descent for people who climbed higher than 8,000 meters.

The problem is there's also this huge sort of catecholamine surge.

People are like, I did it, I've achieved my goal.