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  • Welcome back to The Gentleman's Gazette! Today's video is all about oxfords,

    歡迎回到 The Gentleman's Gazette 頻道!今天的影片要來聊聊牛津鞋

  • one of the most classic, timeless and versatile shoes a man can have.

    是男人所能擁有最經典、永恆並且百搭的鞋款之一

  • What exactly is an oxford shoe?

    到底什麼是牛津鞋呢?

  • Its history dates back centuries and if you want to learn all the details about it,

    它的歷史可以追溯回幾個世紀前,如果你想了解所有細節

  • please check out our in-depth guide on our website, here.

    請參閱我們網站上的深度指南

  • So what exactly is an oxford?

    所以到底什麼是牛津鞋呢?

  • First, it's defined by its quarters which are closed unlike a derby where they're open.

    首先,他的鞋襟是封閉的,不像德比鞋是開放的

  • Then we have a vamp like here, the ankle is exposed.

    接著這邊有個鞋面,踝部是開放的

  • Usually have a cap-toe and a center seam.

    通常有趾帽和中央縫線

  • To learn more about the details of an oxford and how it differs from a derby or a blucher, please check out this video.

    想知道更關於牛津與德比鞋和布呂歇爾鞋不同之處的細節,你可以看這部影片

  • As explained, the oxford is just defined by these few characteristics and as such,

    正如我們所解釋,牛津鞋是被這些特徵定義的,而符合這些特徵的牛津鞋

  • there are many different kinds out there.

    又有很多種

  • Let's do a run through so you know exactly what is what.

    就讓我們簡單帶過一遍,讓你知道到底每種牛津鞋長什麼樣子

  • The first and most important oxford you should have is the so-called cap-toe oxford,

    第一種,也是你最應該擁有的一種牛津鞋是所謂的趾帽牛津鞋

  • and it's called that way because it has the cap-toe.

    他的名稱來自於他的趾帽

  • Basically, what you're looking for is a shoe with a cap-toe,

    基本上,你要找的,就是有趾帽

  • no broguing which means no hole perforations that's all black with neat lines and elegant last.

    沒有雕花,意味著鞋面沒有任何穿孔,全黑並有著整潔的線條並發散出優雅

  • This is in fact, the very first black oxford I bought as a teenager

    這實際上是,我十幾歲時買的第一雙黑色牛津鞋

  • and I still have it today simply because it's so timeless and versatile.

    正因為它是如此的永恆、百搭,直到現在我仍保有著它

  • The second shoe you can have is the plain oxford. Basically, it's like a cap-toe oxford,

    你可以擁有的第二雙鞋是素牛津,基本上,它就像趾帽牛津鞋

  • it just lacks the cap-toe and sometimes you can see a medallion on them but then it's not a plain oxford anymore.

    只是它沒有趾帽,而你有時候可以在鞋身上看到一個圓形雕飾,但這樣一來它就不再是素牛津了

  • Usually, the plain oxford is favored in patent leather for evening shoes so you can wear it with a tuxedo.

    通常來說,大家喜愛適合傍晚穿著的漆皮革製素牛津,你可以與無尾禮服搭配

  • So, how should you wear these oxfords? Like I said, first one should be in black.

    所以,你該怎麼穿這些牛津鞋呢?就像我說的,你的第一雙應該是黑牛津

  • If you have another cap-toe oxford, you can go with a solid, dark brown one that's going to be versatile, or burgundy.

    如果你有另一雙趾帽牛津,可以選擇穩重的、深褐色的牛津,它將會很百搭,或是棗紅色的

  • Plain oxfords are best in patent leathers for evening wear and nothing else.

    素牛津最適合漆皮革製,最好就是搭配傍晚的服飾

  • The third oxford on our list is the so-called wingtip oxford or brogue.

    我們清單上的第三雙就是所謂的翼尖牛津或雕花鞋

  • Basically, what that means, it has a wingtip in front that is like a W,

    基本上,它的意思就是,它的前緣有 W 形翼尖

  • and we did an entire video just about this kind of style so, take a look at it, here.

    而我們也做過一整部關於雕花風格的介紹影片,所以你可以點擊這裡觀看

  • The fourth kind of oxford is the so-called saddle oxford or saddle shoe.

    第四雙牛津是所謂的鞍牛津或鞍鞋

  • It has the same closed lacing system but it has a middle strip of leather which is called a saddle.

    它有著相同封閉式的花邊系統,但它有著一條中央皮革,稱為「鞍」

  • It's particularly popular in the US, and outside the US, it never really caught on.

    它在美國特別流行,但一離開美國,就沒有人會欣賞它了

  • It's a more casual style, and I suggest you only wear it if you're big into Americana,

    它的風格比較不正式,我建議你去到美國再穿

  • or you just want to create a preppy outfit. Otherwise, it looks out of place.

    或是你只是想打造一種學院風格,不然的話,它看起來格格不入

  • The next oxford is the so-called kiltie oxford.

    下一雙是所謂的流蘇牛津

  • It's very rare and it actually has an additional tongue on the outside

    它非常少見,外部有著一片附加的鞋舌

  • which looks a little bit like a kilt hence the name and it's sometimes seen on golf shoes.

    看起來有一點點像蘇格蘭短裙因而得名,有時候可以在高爾夫球鞋上見到

  • Other than that, I really don't suggest you wear the kiltie unless you have a very specific look in mind

    不過,我實在不太建議你穿流蘇牛津除非你心中有很明確的穿搭想法

  • but it looks very special and unique and people will definitely ask you about it.

    它看起來非常的特別、獨特,而人們一定會詢問你的

  • A very elegant form of the oxford is the so-called whole cut.

    另一種非常優雅的牛津鞋是全裁片牛津

  • It's called that way because it is cut from one whole piece of leather.

    它因為由一整片的皮革去剪裁製做而得名

  • Generally, it has just one center seam in the back and it's very popular these days.

    通常來說,它只有鞋跟中心的一條接合縫線,現在非常的流行

  • The only problem with the whole cut is that if it's made out of a ready to wear shoe oftentimes,

    全裁片唯一的問題是,如果它時常被以成鞋的方式製造

  • it wrinkles more easily simply because it's one piece of leather that is shaped to your last

    就更容易產生皺摺,因為這一片皮革到最後才被塑造成你的腳型

  • so keep that in mind when you invest in one.

    所以下次你要投資一雙全裁片牛津時,可以稍微想一下

  • The next step up from the whole cut is the so-called seamless oxford,

    全裁片的下一雙是所謂的無縫線牛津

  • and all that means is that there's actually not a single seam

    意思就是它沒有任何一條縫合線

  • so you have to get a very good hide that adjusts to the entire last,

    所以你必須在最後依據整體形狀非常巧妙地隱藏縫線

  • and that's why it's only something you often see in bespoke shoes.

    而這就是為什麼你通常只能在預約鞋款中看到它

  • Seamless and whole cuts are very sleek and elegant shoes that sometimes,

    無縫線和全裁片是非常圓滑、優雅的鞋子,因而有時候

  • they have a medallion on top and you can wear them with suits

    它們鞋面上會有圓形雕飾,你可以搭配西裝穿著

  • but if you have them in brown and burgundy colors, also with sportcoat combinations.

    不過如果你選擇褐色或棗紅色的牛津,也很適合搭配運動外套

  • Overall though, I'd say it's more in the formal end of things

    然而整體來說,我會說它們是比較偏正式的配件

  • just because of the clean line and the lack of seams.

    因為它們乾淨的線條和縫線的缺乏

  • Another type of Oxford is the so-called U tip and it's similar to a wing tip

    另一種牛津是所謂的 U 型牛津,他與 W 型翼紋牛津非常相似

  • but it has that U shape when you look at it from the top.

    但當你從上方看下去時,它是 U 型的

  • It often comes as a spectator, as you can see here, with two tones,

    它通常是雙色滾邊鞋,就像你現在可以看到的,它有兩種色調

  • and basically, it's a very loud shoe, it's unusual shoe and therefore,

    且基本上,它非常的花俏、獨特,也因此

  • it's only suggested if you want to create an outfit that is defined and that catches people's eyes.

    只有在你想營造有吸引力的、引人注目的裝扮時我才會建議你穿

  • That being said, one of the ways to get really a lot out of your oxfords is to change the color of your shoelaces.

    話雖如此,要讓你的牛津更有變化的其中一個方式是去更換鞋帶的顏色

  • While a pair of shoes can cost you $200, $300 or $2000,

    當一雙牛津要價 200、300 甚至 2000 美金時

  • a pair of shoelaces cost about ten bucks and it can really change the entire look.

    一對鞋帶只花費你 10 塊美金,並且可以完全地改變它的樣貌

  • This brown shoe here looks very different with yellow laces.

    這邊這雙褐色鞋搭配黃色鞋帶看起來非常的不一樣

  • For example, you can add green or red or just brown laces and basically,

    舉例來說,你可以添加綠色、紅色或褐色鞋帶,而基本上

  • with a simple twist, you get an entirely different shoe and it makes the shoe more casual.

    透過小小的改變,你可以獲得一雙完全不同的鞋,並且讓它更加隨興一些

  • If you want to invest in some oxfords to start,

    如果你想從入手一些牛津鞋開始

  • I suggest you get a black cap toe oxford with black shoelaces and then a few other colors

    我建議你買黑色的趾帽牛津搭配黑色及其他顏色的鞋帶

  • such as red or yellow or burgundy, and even purple works.

    比如說紅色、黃色、棗紅色,甚至紫色也行得通

  • As a second shoe, I suggest you get a half brogue or full brogue, mid brown oxford,

    第二雙鞋我則推薦你買一雙半雕花或全雕花的中褐色牛津

  • and if you want to go a step further, you can get either a tan or a burgundy red one.

    如果你想再進一步,你還可以再買一雙黃褐色或棗紅色的牛津

  • For example, these two would be good options for first two shoes.

    舉例來說,這兩雙很適合做為你的前兩雙牛津

  • As you grow your shoe collection, you can expand in more unusual models

    當你要增加你的收藏時,你可以擴張到更獨特的類型

  • such as this white, full brogue which is great in summer,

    比如說這雙很適合夏天的白色全雕花牛津

  • or this spectator shoe which looks great with a plain, navy suit, or striped suit.

    或是這雙非常適合素色、海軍藍色套裝或者條文套裝的雙色滾邊鞋

  • Of course, there are lots of other color combinations for oxfords,

    當然,牛津鞋還有更多配色的可能

  • and since it's such a classic, versatile, and timeless last and style,

    且因為它有如此經典、百搭和永恆的風格

  • you will find basically anything under the sun.

    你可以在這普天之下找到任何的搭配可能

  • If you want to find out what brands we recommend, please check out our in-depth guide,

    如果你想知道我們推薦什麼品牌,請參考我們的深度指南

  • and if you want to buy high-quality colorful shoelaces in round and flat and different shapes,

    如果你想買各色的、圓形、扁型或其他形狀的高品質鞋帶

  • please check out our shop.

    請參考我們的商店

  • Make sure to check out the article because no matter your budget,

    請一定要來看看我們的文章,因為不論你的預算在哪

  • we have an option for low, middle, and high-end.

    我們提供低、中、高價位的選擇

Welcome back to The Gentleman's Gazette! Today's video is all about oxfords,

歡迎回到 The Gentleman's Gazette 頻道!今天的影片要來聊聊牛津鞋

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B1 中級 中文 美國腔 牛津 鞋帶 搭配 適合 圓形 風格

牛津鞋大解密!你知道不同的牛津鞋怎麼穿嗎? (Oxford Shoes Guide - How To Wear, Buy & Combine Men's Oxfords)

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    Lilian Chang 發佈於 2017 年 10 月 19 日
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