Name: 穿越歷史的時尚第 4 集 - 伊麗莎白時代 (Fashion Through History: Episode 4 – Elizabethans)
Uploaded: 2025-08-05T18:22:10.000Z
Duration: 14 min 44 s

Welcome to Fashion Through History brought to you by English Heritage.

歡迎訪問由英國遺產協會為您帶來的《穿越歷史的時尚》。

I am fashion historian Dr. Serena Dyer and I'm here at Kenilworth Castle and Elizabethan Garden in Warwickshire.

我是時裝史學家塞雷娜-戴爾博士，現在我在沃裡克郡的凱尼爾沃思城堡和伊麗莎白花園。

We're here to explore the impressive fashions of the Elizabethan era and so our fashion icon had to be Queen Elizabeth I.

我們在這裡探索伊麗莎白時代令人印象深刻的時尚，是以我們的時尚偶像必須是伊麗莎白女王一世。

Today we'll be looking at what Elizabeth and her contemporaries would have worn earlier in her reign but first we're going to meet English heritage historian Jeremy Ashby who'll be telling us more about Elizabeth I and life here at Kenilworth.

今天，我們將看看伊麗莎白和她同時代的人在她統治早期會穿什麼，但首先我們將見到英國遺產歷史學家傑里米-阿什比（Jeremy Ashby），他將告訴我們更多關於伊麗莎白一世和凱尼爾沃思生活的資訊。

Who lived here at Kenilworth during Elizabeth I's reign?

伊麗莎白一世統治時期，誰住在肯尼爾沃思？

Kenilworth Castle belonged to Robert Dudley the Earl of Leicester.

凱尼爾沃思城堡屬於萊斯特伯爵羅伯特-達德利。

Elizabeth herself gave him the estate in 1563.

1563 年，伊麗莎白親自將莊園贈予他。

There were wide rumours at the time that their relationship was a romantic one.

當時有很多傳言說他們的關係是浪漫的。

Elizabeth came four times to Kenilworth Castle and Robert spared no expense at all in keeping the Queen entertained.

伊麗莎白曾四次來到凱尼爾沃思城堡，羅伯特不遺餘力地招待女王。

And when Elizabeth visited Kenilworth she would have been a spectacle herself.

當伊麗莎白訪問肯尼爾沃思時，她自己也會成為一個奇觀。

So let's look at all of the layers that went into those impressive gowns.

讓我們來看看這些令人印象深刻的禮服是如何層層疊加而成的。

Danielle are you ready to become a queen?

丹妮爾，你準備好成為女王了嗎？

Yes so I'm a little bit hoping it's not going to be too hot under all those layers.

是的，所以我有點希望在這麼多層衣服下面不會太熱。

Absolutely although Elizabethan garments are all made from lovely natural fibres like wool and linen so while there are a lot of layers they're all quite breathable so you should be quite cool and they shouldn't be too heavy.

當然，伊麗莎白時代的服裝都是用羊毛和亞麻等天然纖維製成的，雖然有很多層，但都很透氣，所以應該很涼爽，也不會太重。

So our first layer is this partlet so if you just pop your arms through and then I'll tie you at the front.

我們的第一層是這個小部分 所以如果你把你的手臂伸進去 然後我會在前面給你係上領帶

是以，這個小部件是用亞麻布製成的。

The Elizabethan era is often known for its ginormous looks like you've swallowed a plate kind of ruffs and that was really popular later in Elizabeth's reign but early in the period we just see these little frills.

伊麗莎白時代的圍脖以其巨大的外觀而聞名，就像你吞下了一個盤子，這種圍脖在伊麗莎白統治後期非常流行，但在伊麗莎白時代早期，我們只能看到這些小褶邊。

Next we have your bum roll so this starts to give you a bit of the silhouette that you'll be looking for so you want to have a nice wide skirt that will help you to show off your very expensive fabrics and the most important part of that is the farthingale so if you want to know what a farthingale is a Spanish farthingale so this would really hold your skirts out and it could be stiffened with bents originally so a kind of cane and later whalebone.

接下來，我們要做的就是卷邊，這樣就能讓裙子的輪廓更加清晰，所以你需要一條寬大的裙子，這樣才能更好地展示昂貴的面料，而最重要的部分就是褶邊，如果你想知道什麼是褶邊，那就去了解一下西班牙的褶邊吧。

On top of that the thing that you're really showing off is your kirtle.

除此之外，你真正值得炫耀的是你的裙子。

If you want to dive in again so this is made from silk taffeta but you can see that rather ingeniously the very expensive silk is just at the front whereas the back is made from a far plainer silk taffeta.

如果你想再深入瞭解一下，那麼這件衣服是用真絲塔夫綢製成的，但你可以看到，非常巧妙的是，非常昂貴的真絲只是在前面，而後面則是用普通得多的真絲塔夫綢製成的。

The kirtle was spiral laced in place so it's just a single lace that runs down the side so it feels a bit like you're sewing yourself into it and this would also allow you to have a little bit of flexibility so you can lace it not quite as tight if you've had a bit more for dinner at the feast that evening.

裙子是螺旋式繫帶的，所以只有一條花邊從側面延伸下來，感覺就像把自己縫在裡面一樣，這也讓你有了一點靈活性，如果你當晚在宴會上吃得比較多，就可以系得不那麼緊。

There you go and show off your very expensive silk brocade.

你去炫耀一下你那昂貴的絲綢錦緞吧。

So your next layer is an even more expensive silk.

所以你的下一層是更昂貴的絲綢。

The sleeves could be interchangeable so you could wear the same gown with different sleeves, you could have matching sleeves or you could have some very impressive cloth of gold sleeves.

袖子可以互換，是以您可以在同一件禮服上搭配不同的袖子，也可以有配套的袖子，還可以有令人印象深刻的金色布袖。

It was very very important to have clean white linen so you'd have separate cuffs.

有乾淨的白色亞麻布非常重要，這樣你就有了獨立的袖口。

Next we have the gown itself so you can put this on like a coat and then this just does up at the front with hooks and eyes.

接下來是長袍本身，你可以像穿外套一樣把它穿在身上，然後在前面用鉤扣把它掛起來。

So this style of gown would have been really fashionable in the 1560s and 70s when Elizabeth was here at Kenilworth.

是以，這種款式的長袍在 15 世紀六七十年代非常流行，當時伊麗莎白還在凱尼爾沃斯。

This gown is made from a very high quality black wool but then of course it's also embellished with lots of gorgeous gorgeous decoration.

這件禮服由優質的黑色羊毛製成，當然還點綴了許多華麗的裝飾。

So we've got the slashing on the front here so you're not only getting that outer fabric but it's cut through so you can see the fabric beneath so you're showing off all these layers of expensive fabrics that you can afford.

所以，我們在前面做了剪裁，這樣你不僅能看到外層的布料，還能看到下面的布料，這樣你就能炫耀你買得起的這些昂貴的布料了。

We've got the lace which for Elizabeth would have been made from real metals and then we've got the puffs at the sleeves which are made from silk satin.

伊麗莎白的蕾絲是用真金屬製成的，而袖子上的蓬蓬則是用絲緞製成的。

These kinds of adornments were only allowed to be worn by Viscountesses, Baronesses and higher ranking ladies.

只有子爵夫人、男爵夫人和更高級別的女士才能佩戴這些裝飾品。

And then we have the headwear so this is in two parts.

然後是頭飾，這部分分為兩部分。

So firstly we have this paste which is a solid part that goes on your head and now this might seem a little bit scary but I'm going to attach it to your head with straight pins I promise not to impale you.

首先，我們要把這個粘貼物粘在你的頭上，這是一個堅固的部分，現在看起來可能有點嚇人，但我會用大頭針把它固定在你的頭上，我保證不會把你刺穿。

So this was part of fashionable headwear from medieval times so even Elizabeth I's mother Anne Boleyn wore a hood almost identical to this.

是以，從中世紀開始，這就是時尚頭飾的一部分，就連伊麗莎白一世的母親安妮-波林（Anne Boleyn）也戴著與此幾乎一模一樣的頭巾。

The difference is how you fold it back on the head.

This hood is decorated with pearls and pearls symbolised purity and virginity which for the Virgin Queen was something which was very important.

頭巾上裝飾著珍珠，珍珠象徵著純潔和童貞，這對聖母王后來說是非常重要的。

So the pomanda is a cast metal adornment which would go on the end of a silk cord and you would wear it around your waist and it's filled with lovely scented beads so this one's got some lavender scented beads inside so you can very nicely hold it up to your nose whenever an unpleasant aroma is near.

Pomanda 是一種金屬鑄造的裝飾品，可以穿在絲繩的末端，佩戴在腰間，裡面裝滿了可愛的香珠，所以這個裡面裝了一些薰衣草香珠，每當有難聞的香氣靠近時，你就可以很好地把它舉到鼻子前。

It feels really nice and it's a lot lighter than I was expecting actually.

它的手感非常好，而且比我想象的要輕很多。

Excellent well why don't you go and enjoy the gardens here at Calder?

好極了，你為什麼不去欣賞考爾德的花園呢？

So Jeremy could you tell us a bit more about Elizabeth and Dudley's relationship?

傑里米，你能再給我們講講 伊麗莎白和達德利的關係嗎？

It was a very close relationship and it started when they were children.

這是一種非常親密的關係，從他們還是孩子的時候就開始了。

Robert later recorded that he and the Queen had first met when she was eight years old and it's possible that hard times in their young lives had brought them closer together.

羅伯特後來記錄說，他和王后第一次見面是在王后八歲的時候，可能是幼年生活的艱苦歲月拉近了他們之間的距離。

They'd both been prisoners in the Tower of London in the 1550s.

15 世紀 50 年代，他們都曾是倫敦塔的囚犯。

The moment Elizabeth became Queen she gave him a post at court as Master of the Horse.

伊麗莎白一成為女王，就在宮廷裡給了他一個馬術大師的職位。

There's always been a mystery about whether there was ever a serious chance that Elizabeth and Robert might marry and I have to say I have my doubts.

伊麗莎白和羅伯特是否真的有可能結婚一直是個謎，我不得不說我對此表示懷疑。

He was her subject and for her to marry beneath her I think would have been socially very difficult for her to do but there was also a bit of a scandal around Robert.

他是她的臣民，如果她嫁給一個比她低一等的人，我想她在社會上是很難做到的，但圍繞著羅伯特也有一些醜聞。

His first wife had died 15 years before the Kenilworth Entertainment in slightly mysterious circumstances so I don't think it was ever really on the cards.

他的第一任妻子在肯尼爾沃思娛樂公司成立 15 年前去世，死因有點神祕，所以我認為這並不是他的本意。

But the events here at Kenilworth were really pivotal in Robert Dudley trying to form that relationship and while they would have been fabulous to experience as a member of the court we must remember that there were so many people working behind the scenes to make these wonderful entertainments happen.

但是，在肯尼爾沃思舉行的這些活動對於羅伯特-達德利試圖建立這種關係確實起到了關鍵作用，雖然作為宮廷成員體驗這些活動會非常美妙，但我們必須記住，有很多人在幕後工作，才使得這些美妙的娛樂活動得以實現。

Let's have a little look at what somebody from the merchant classes might have worn.

讓我們來看看商人階層的人可能會穿什麼。

Now under the reign of Elizabeth's father Henry VIII the merchant classes really rose up and sumptuary laws became incredibly important and that put into law what different classes of people were allowed to clothe themselves in.

在伊麗莎白的父親亨利八世統治時期，商人階層真正崛起，服裝法變得異常重要，並將不同階層的人可以穿什麼衣服納入法律。

Here in your merchant's class outfit you've still got some semblance of prestige about you.

在這裡，穿著商人階級的服裝，你還是有點威望的。

You're wearing an extremely high quality woolen gown.

你穿的是一件品質極高的羊毛長袍。

People in Elizabethan society would have really been able to tell apart the qualities of wools.

伊麗莎白時代的人們確實能夠分辨出羊毛的品質。

You've also got fur trim which was one of the things which was often mentioned in sumptuary laws.

你還可以看到毛皮飾邊，這也是服裝法中經常提到的內容之一。

This gown rather wonderfully has pockets.

這件禮服的口袋設計相當奇妙。

So in this example there are pocket bags but that also might have just been a slit so that you could access a purse around your waist underneath.

是以，在這個例子中，雖然有口袋包，但也可能只是一個縫隙，這樣你就可以在腰下拿錢包了。

You have got a little bit of silk about you still so you've got silk sleeves and you've got your silk bonnet.

你身上還有一點絲綢，所以你有絲綢袖子和絲綢帽子。

The gown is also decorated with things like ribbons at the front and you might have also had a ribbon on your kirtle which just peeks out underneath.

禮服的前端也有絲帶等裝飾，您的裙襬上可能也有絲帶，只是在下面露出來。

So Danielle how does this feel compared to your more queenly garment from earlier on?

那麼，丹妮爾，與你之前那件更具女王氣質的衣服相比，這件衣服感覺如何？

It's still nice but it feels more practical like I'm ready to make a sale or something you know like ready for work.

它還是很好看，但感覺更實用，就像我準備好去做銷售或工作一樣。

Well I'm afraid things are going to get even less glamorous as we now turn to the workers that we've been putting all of the hard labour in.

恐怕事情會變得更不光彩了，因為我們現在要面對的是我們一直在付出辛勤勞動的工人們。

Could you tell us a little bit more about the entertainments that Dudley put on here at Kenilworth?

您能給我們介紹一下達德利在肯尼爾沃思舉辦的娛樂活動嗎？

Yes the spectacle at Kenilworth is known to have been one of the most elaborate of the whole of Elizabeth's reign.

是的，眾所周知，凱尼爾沃斯的盛況是整個伊麗莎白統治時期最繁華的盛況之一。

There was the finest of food, there was music, there was dancing and there was drama and pageantry.

這裡有最美味的食物，有音樂，有舞蹈，還有戲劇和盛會。

A spectacle like Kenilworth in 1575 needed a lot of people working behind the scenes to make it work.

像 1575 年凱尼爾沃思這樣的盛會，需要很多人在幕後工作才能成功。

Now as you can see this is more or less the same as the underwear that Elizabeth was wearing.

如你所見，這與伊麗莎白所穿的內衣差不多。

We've got two really important elements, the linen smock which was the layer worn closest to the skin and that was really a very very important element for hygiene.

我們有兩個非常重要的元素：亞麻布罩衣，它是最貼近皮膚的一層，對於衛生來說，這確實是一個非常非常重要的元素。

This was something that could be washed and laundered at very very high temperatures and then on top of that we have the kirtle or petticoat.

這是一種可以在非常高的溫度下洗滌的衣物，除此之外，我們還有裙帶或襯裙。

Like when you're Elizabeth you are once more going to be putting on a parklet.

比如，當你成為伊麗莎白時，你將再次建造一個小公園。

So for Elizabeth this was partly about modesty but partly you might have been showing off an expensive embroidery on the linen but for you now that you're down in the kitchens I'm afraid that this is more for practicality.

所以對伊麗莎白來說，這一方面是為了謙虛，另一方面你可能是為了炫耀亞麻布上昂貴的刺繡，但對你來說，既然你已經下廚房了，這恐怕更多的是為了實用。

So of course the kitchens didn't have sunscreen so this is keeping you nice and protected from the sun and from any hot splashing oils while you're cooking.

當然，廚房裡沒有防晒霜，所以這個防晒霜能讓你在烹飪時免受陽光和熱油的侵襲。

So you've also got a semblance of fashionability there, you've still got that frilly collar.

這樣，你還能看到時尚的影子，你還能看到褶皺的衣領。

But the next item is very much a practical item.

So this would have been for keeping your kirtle nice and clean but it could be also used to pick up hot plates or to carry things in.

是以，這本來是用來保持裙子乾淨整潔的，但也可以用來拿熱盤子或搬東西。

If you're wearing your Sunday best you might have had a gown like the merchant class lady but for general working especially when you stepped outside of the confines of the kitchen you'd want to put on a jacket like this.

如果你在週日穿著最好的衣服，你可能會像商人階層的女士一樣穿上長袍，但在一般工作中，尤其是當你走出廚房的範圍時，你會想穿上這樣一件夾克。

This one is quite fitted and actually quite fancy because you've got a little collar and wings on the shoulders so that's your your attempts at fashionability.

這件非常合身，實際上也很花哨，因為你有一個小領子，肩膀上還有翅膀，這就是你對時尚的嘗試。

So I'm afraid that there's no more fancy caps and bonnets, now you have a simple linen coif.

所以，恐怕再也沒有花哨的帽子和花冠了，現在你只有簡單的亞麻盤發。

Now this was really important for Elizabethan women because they needed to cover their hair and this wasn't just a point of modesty this was also a point of practicality.

這對伊麗莎白時代的女性來說非常重要，因為她們需要遮住頭髮，這不僅是為了謙虛，也是為了實用。

Because there's no shampoo this is gonna again help keep you protected from all of those horrible oils in the kitchen and make sure that your hair stays nice and clean.

因為沒有洗髮水，所以它還能幫你抵禦廚房裡那些可怕的油脂，確保頭髮保持乾淨整潔。

The working woman did have a lot of accessories so on her belt she would have carried all of the bits and pieces that she might have needed for her tasks.

職業女性確實有很多飾品，是以她的腰帶上會帶著執行任務時可能需要的所有零碎物品。

So if she was working in the kitchen she might have a knife like this, if she was a needle woman she might have had scissors and a needle case and it kept all of those important bits and pieces close at hand.

是以，如果她在廚房工作，她可能會有一把這樣的刀；如果她是一個針線女工，她可能會有一把剪刀和一個針線盒，這讓所有這些重要的零碎物品都近在咫尺。

Fashion in Elizabethan England was really closely linked to social status and rank.

伊麗莎白時代英國的時尚與社會地位和等級密切相關。

Even in the snapshots of Elizabethan fashions from the 1560s and 1570s that we've looked at today, you can see how easy it is to tell apart both royalty from everybody else and all of the social statuses and rank throughout society.

即使是在我們今天看到的 15 世紀 60 年代和 70 年代伊麗莎白時代的時尚快照中，你也可以看到區分皇室和其他人以及整個社會的所有社會地位和等級是多麼容易。

If you'd like to find out more about Elizabeth I and Kenilworth Castle then please go to the English Heritage website. www.elizabethancastle.co.uk

如果您想了解有關伊麗莎白一世和凱尼爾沃斯城堡的更多資訊，請訪問英格蘭遺產網站 www.elizabethancastle.co.uk。