this was my team.

童年的時候，

(Laughter)

它們就是我的玩伴。

I stunk at sports.

（笑聲）

I didn't like to play them, I didn't like to watch them.

我運動很差勁，

So this is what I did. I went fishing.

我不喜歡做體育運動， 也不喜歡看別人運動。

And for all of my growing up I fished on the shores of Connecticut,

所以我就選擇去釣魚。

and these are the creatures that I saw on a regular basis.

我的成長記憶， 都是在康涅狄格州岸邊釣魚，

But after I grew up and went to college,

而這些生物， 就是我常常遇到的玩伴。

and I came home in the early 90's,

但長大之後，我上了大學，

this is what I found.

90年代初，我回到家時，

My team had shrunk.

我卻發現：

It was like literally having your roster devastated.

我的玩伴減少了。

And as I sort of looked into that,

少得不成隊形。

from a very personal point of view as a fisherman,

當我開始從釣客的個人角度

I started to kind of figure out,

去調查這件事時，

well, what was the rest of the world thinking about it?

我開始有點想了解，

First place I started to look was fish markets.

究竟...世界上其他人 對這件事情是怎麼想的？

And when I went to fish markets,

我首先去看的地方是魚市。

in spite of where I was --

當我去了魚市場，

whether I was in North Carolina, or Paris, or London, or wherever --

無論是哪裡的魚市場，

I kept seeing this weirdly repeating trope of four creatures,

南卡羅琳娜的、巴黎的、 倫敦的、還有其他地方的，

again and again --

我不斷地看到這四種生物 奇異地重複組合出現，

on the menus, on ice --

一次又一次地出現

shrimp, tuna, salmon and cod.

在菜單上、在冰上：

And I thought this was pretty strange,

蝦，鮪魚，鮭魚和鱈魚。

and as I looked at it, I was wondering,

我覺得這樣相當奇怪，

did anyone else notice this sort of shrinking of the market?

在調查時，我就想：

Well, when I looked into it,

難道沒有別人注意到 市面上的海鮮種類在減少嗎？

I realized that people didn't look at it as their team.

是的，當我深入調查時，

Ordinary people, the way they looked at seafood was like this.

我發現人們並沒有 把魚看成他們的玩伴，

It's not an unusual human characteristic

普通人眼中的海鮮是這樣的。

to reduce the natural world down to very few elements.

這是人之常情，

We did it before, 10,000 years ago, when we came out of our caves.

人們喜歡將自然界 精簡成寥寥幾個元素。

If you look at fire pits from 10,000 years ago,

一萬年前，從洞穴人進化時， 我們就是這樣子，

you'll see raccoons, you'll see, you know, wolves,

一萬年前的煮食火堆遺跡裡，

you'll see all kinds of different creatures.

你可以發現浣熊、狼，

But if you telescope to the age of -- you know, 2,000 years ago,

各種各樣的生物都有，

you'll see these four mammals:

但，要是近觀到兩千年前，

pigs, cows, sheep and goats.

你會看到這四種哺乳類動物：

It's true of birds, too.

豬、牛、綿羊、山羊。

You look at the menus in New York City restaurants

還有一些鳥類。

150 years ago, 200 years ago,

紐約市餐館裡的菜單，

you'll see snipe, woodcock, grouse, dozens of ducks, dozens of geese.

在150年前、200年前，

But telescope ahead to the age of modern animal husbandry,

賣的是鷸、山鷸、松雞， 鴨和鵝更是居多，

and you'll see four:

但再看看現代畜牧業，

turkeys, ducks, chicken and geese.

大家會看到四種生物：

So it makes sense that we've headed in this direction.

火雞、鴨、雞、鵝。

But how have we headed in this direction?

因此我們今天之所以這樣， 是可以理解的。

Well ...

但我們到底是如何走到這一步呢？

first it's a very, very new problem.

嗯...

This is the way we've been fishing the oceans over the last 50 years.

首先這是一個相當新起的問題。

World War II was a tremendous incentive to arm ourselves in a war against fish.

我們在過去50年裡 就一直這樣在海裡捕魚。

All of the technology that we perfected during World War II --

二戰給了我們極大的動力 來武裝自己、對付魚類。

sonar, lightweight polymers --

我們在二戰期間完善了所有科技，

all these things were redirected towards fish.

例如聲納、輕質聚合物，

And so you see this tremendous buildup in fishing capacity,

都被轉換成用來對付魚類。

quadrupling in the course of time,

所以你可以看到 捕撈量的驚人增長，

from the end of World War II to the present time.

自二戰結束至今，

And right now that means

短時間裡就翻了兩番。

we're taking between 80 and 90 million metric tons out of the sea every year.

也就是說，

That's the equivalent of the human weight of China

我們現在的年均捕魚量 在 8~9千萬噸之間。

taken out of the sea every year.

這相當於每年從海裡撈出 全體中國人的重量。

And it's no coincidence that I use China as the example

我用中國做例子， 不是純屬巧合，

because China is now the largest fishing nation in the world.

因為中國目前是世界上 捕魚量最大的國家。

Well, that's only half the story.

這只不過是故事的一半。

The other half of the story

故事的另一半是，

is this incredible boom in fish farming and aquaculture,

魚類養殖和水產養殖快速增長，

which is now, only in the last year or two,

在過去短短一兩年時間內，

starting to exceed the amount of wild fish that we produce.

就開始超過野生魚的產量。

So that if you add wild fish and farmed fish together,

所以野生魚和養殖魚加在一起，

you get the equivalent of two Chinas created from the ocean

就等同每年從海裡產出 全體中國人總重量的兩倍。

each and every year.

再次，我用中國做例子， 不是純屬巧合，

And again, it's not a coincidence that I use China as the example,

因為中國不僅是最大的捕魚國，

because China, in addition to being the biggest catcher of fish,

還是最大的魚類養殖國。

is also the biggest farmer of fish.

來看看現在我們選擇的四種魚類：

So let's look though at the four choices we are making right now.

首先

The first one --

在美國和許多西方國家 目前消耗最多的海鮮是

by far the most consumed seafood in America and in much of the West,

蝦。

is shrimp.

野生蝦在野生產品當中，

Shrimp in the wild -- as a wild product --

是一種糟糕的產品。

is a terrible product.

一般要殺5、10、15磅的野生魚類

5, 10, 15 pounds of wild fish are regularly killed

才能給市場帶來 1 磅蝦。

to bring one pound of shrimp to the market.

而且蝦的運輸燃油效率極低。

They're also incredibly fuel inefficient to bring to the market.

達爾豪斯大學最近的一項研究發現，

In a recent study that was produced out of Dalhousie University,

拖網捕蝦，

it was found that dragging for shrimp

是二氧化碳排放最高的捕魚方式之一。

is one of the most carbon-intensive ways of fishing that you can find.

你可以養殖蝦，

So you can farm them,

的確有人養蝦，

and people do farm them,

而且在這一帶養得特別多。

and they farm them a lot in this very area.

但問題是，

Problem is ...

養蝦是在野生棲息地養，

the place where you farm shrimp is in these wild habitats --

在紅樹林裡面養。

in mangrove forests.

大家看看那些往下生長的樹根。

Now look at those lovely roots coming down.

這些樹根鞏固土壤，

Those are the things that hold soil together,

保護海線，為各種小魚蝦 以及各種生物創造棲息地，

protect coasts, create habitats for all sorts of young fish, young shrimp,

而這些生物亦同時維護這個環境。

all sorts of things that are important to this environment.

但是，許多沿海紅樹林 卻落得此下場。

Well, this is what happens to a lot of coastal mangrove forests.

在過去30-40年裡，

We've lost millions of acres of coastal mangroves

我們喪失了上百萬畝的沿海紅樹林。

over the last 30 or 40 years.

破壞率雖然有減緩，

That rate of destruction has slowed,

但是我們仍然損失了太多的紅樹林。

but we're still in a major mangrove deficit.

目前另外一個狀況是

The other thing that's going on here

電影製作人Mark Benjamin所稱的 「海底碎魚總動員」現象。

is a phenomenon that the filmmaker Mark Benjamin called "Grinding Nemo."

這個現象，對於你在熱帶珊瑚礁上 看到過的生物來說，至關重要。

This phenomenon is very, very relevant

因為目前捕蝦，

to anything that you've ever seen on a tropical reef.

我們用拖蝦網去捕蝦，

Because what's going on right now,

同時又兼捕大量副漁獲，

we have shrimp draggers dragging for shrimp,

這些副漁獲會被碾碎做蝦飼料。

catching a huge amount of bycatch,

有時許多這些漁船，

that bycatch in turn gets ground up and turned into shrimp food.

都是奴工在​​工作--

And sometimes, many of these vessels --

亦會捕獲到所謂的「垃圾魚」，

manned by slaves --

我們喜歡在珊瑚礁上看到的魚，

are catching these so-called "trash fish,"

然後將它們碾碎，

fish that we would love to see on a reef,

將它們變成蝦飼料，

grinding them up

一個自己吃自己、自動產蝦 的生態系統。

and turning them into shrimp feed --

美國消費量第二大的海鮮，

an ecosystem literally eating itself and spitting out shrimp.

亦備受西方國家喜愛，

The next most consumed seafood in America,

鮪魚（也叫吞拿魚、金槍魚）

and also throughout the West,

鮪魚是頂級的全球性魚類。

is tuna.

這些大範圍的管理區域必須接受監測，

So tuna is this ultimate global fish.

目的是更好地管理對鮪魚的捕撈。

These huge management areas have to be observed

我們的「區域漁業管理組織」，

in order for tuna to be well managed.

簡稱「ICCAT」，

Our own management area,

「大西洋鮪類保育委員會」的簡稱。

called a Regional Fisheries Management Organization,

偉大的自然學家 Carl Safina曾經戲稱為：

is called ICCAT,

「撈光所有鮪魚的國際陰謀會」。

the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas.

當然，我們看到ICCAT

The great naturalist Carl Safina once called it,

在過去兩年的巨大進步，

"The International Conspiracy to Catch all the Tunas."

雖然還有很大的改善空間，

Of course we've seen incredible improvement

鮪魚是不是全球性魚類 雖仍有待商榷，

in ICCAT in the last few years,

但要管理它， 我們就必須全球管理，

there is total room for improvement,

我們也可以試試養殖鮪魚，

but it remains to be said that tuna is a global fish,

但鮪魚極不適合水產養殖。

and to manage it, we have to manage the globe.

很多人可能不知道， 其實鮪魚是溫血動物。

Well, we could also try to grow tuna

它們可以使自己身體的溫度 比環境溫度高20度，

but tuna is a spectacularly bad animal for aquaculture.

鮪魚可以每小時游40英里。

Many people don't know this but tuna are warm-blooded.

所以這把養殖魚類的優點 完全消滅了，對吧？

They can heat their bodies 20 degrees above ambient temperature,

水產養殖魚或者一般魚

they can swim at over 40 miles an hour.

都是冷血動物，不怎麼運動。

So that pretty much eliminates

這有利於蛋白質生長。

all the advantages of farming a fish, right?

但要養殖這瘋狂野生動物，

A farmed fish is --

每小時游40英里， 又要溫熱血液，

or a fish is cold-blooded, it doesn't move too much.

恐怕這對水產養殖來說 不是個好選擇。

That's a great thing for growing protein.

美國和西方國家消費最多的 另一種海鮮是

But if you've got this crazy, wild creature

鮭魚（也稱三文魚）。

that swims at 40 miles an hour and heats its blood --

目前鮭魚也很搶手，

not a great candidate for aquaculture.

但是不必通過漁業來捕捉。

The next creature --

我來自康州。

most consumed seafood in America and throughout the West --

康州以前是大量野生鮭魚的棲身地。

is salmon.

但看看康州的這張地圖，

Now salmon got its plundering, too,

地圖上每個點代表一個堤壩。

but it didn't really necessarily happen through fishing.

康州有超過3,000個堤壩。

This is my home state of Connecticut.

我常說這就是為什麼 康州人脾氣這麼爆躁--

Connecticut used to be home to a lot of wild salmon.

（笑聲）

But if you look at this map of Connecticut,

要是有人能把康州通通氣，

every dot on that map is a dam.

我覺得我們會有 一個更美好的世界。

There are over 3,000 dams in the state of Connecticut.

但是有次我對一個國家公園 的工作人員提了這個提議，

I often say this is why people in Connecticut are so uptight --

有個來自南卡州的人 就走過來跟我說：

(Laughter)

「你可不要太跟你的康州過不去，

If somebody could just unblock Connecticut's chi,

你看我們南卡州這裡， 有3萬5千個堤壩呢。」

I feel that we could have an infinitely better world.

所以說美國有個堤壩流行病， 這也是個全球流行病。

But I made this particular comment

堤壩無處不在，

at a convention once of national parks officers,

就是這些堤壩，

and this guy from North Carolina sidled up to me, he says,

讓野生鮭魚無法到達產卵地。

"You know, you oughtn't be so hard on your Connecticut,

因此我們就轉靠水產養殖，

cause we here in North Carolina, we got 35,000 dams."

而鮭魚是最成功的水產魚類， 至少從數字上看是最成功的。

So it's a national epidemic, it's an international epidemic.

人們剛開始養殖鮭魚時，

And there are dams everywhere,

要消耗多達 6 磅野生魚，

and these are precisely the things

才能產出 1 磅鮭魚。

that stop wild salmon from reaching their spawning grounds.

鮭魚養殖業的確大有進步。

So as a result, we've turned to aquaculture,

現在是消耗 2 磅產 1 磅，

and salmon is one the most successful, at least from a numbers point of view.

雖然這其中有一點欺騙性，

When they first started farming salmon,

因為養殖飼料的生產方式，

it could take as many as six pounds of wild fish

是用顆粒計算的，

to make a single pound of salmon.

飼料的磅數比鮭魚的磅數。

The industry has, to its credit, greatly improved.

而飼料也是用魚製造的。

They've gotten it below two to one,

所以實際魚的投入和產出比-- 簡稱為 FIFO--

although it's a little bit of a cheat

就很難說出一個正確數字。

because if you look at the way aquaculture feed is produced,

但無論如何，

they're measuring pellets --

養殖業功勞很大，

pounds of pellets per pound of salmon.

降低了生產每磅鮭魚所需的魚量。

Those pellets are in turn reduced fish.

問題是：目前我們的鮭魚產量 也開始有點瘋狂了。

So the actual -- what's called the FIFO, the fish in and the fish out --

水產業是全球發展最快的食物系統。

kind of hard to say.

年均增長率約為7%。

But in any case,

雖然我們消耗更少的魚，

credit to the industry,

產出更多的鮭魚，

it has lowered the amount of fish per pound of salmon.

我們還是在捕殺很多小魚。

Problem is we've also gone crazy

而且我們不僅用魚來餵魚，

with the amount of salmon that we're producing.

我們也用魚餵雞和豬。

Aquaculture is the fastest growing food system on the planet.

所以我們吃雞，雞吃魚，

It's growing at something like seven percent per year.

但見怪不怪，我們也有魚吃雞，

And so even though we're doing less per fish

因為雞的副產品： 雞毛、雞血、雞骨，

to bring it to the market,

會被碾碎用來餵魚。

we're still killing a lot of these little fish.

所以我經常想，

And it's not just fish that we're feeding fish to,

有沒有魚吃過吃過魚的雞？

we're also feeding fish to chickens and pigs.

好像雞生蛋蛋生雞的問題。好吧——

So we've got chickens and they're eating fish,

（笑聲）

but weirdly, we also have fish that are eating chickens.

總的來說，結果是非常糟糕的。

Because the byproducts of chickens -- feathers, blood, bone --

我們看到的是，

get ground up and fed to fish.

2 - 3千萬公噸的野生動物

So I often wonder,

從海裡捕撈出來， 被碾碎使用。

is there a fish that ate a chicken that ate a fish?

也就是三分之一中國人的重量，

It's sort of a reworking of the chicken and egg thing. Anyway --

或者是整個美國的總人口體重，

(Laughter)

每年從海裡被撈出來。

All together, though, it results in a terrible mess.

四種魚裡的最後一種， 定義有點模糊，

What you're talking about

業界一般稱為「白魚」。

is something between 20 and 30 million metric tons of wild creatures

很多種魚最後變成了所謂的「白魚」，

that are taken from the ocean and used and ground up.

但要解釋個中故事，

That's the equivalent of a third of a China,

要先提一下美國飲食 的革命性發明:

or of an entire United States of humans

麥香魚堡。

that's taken out of the sea each and every year.

麥香魚堡一開始用的是大比目魚。

The last of the four is a kind of amorphous thing.

原因是當時一個本地食店老闆發現

It's what the industry calls "whitefish."

星期五他的麥當勞店沒有顧客。

There are many fish that get cycled into this whitefish thing

因為當地人信基督教，需要吃魚。

but the way to kind of tell the story, I think,

所以他去找Ray Kro，說：

is through that classic piece of American culinary innovation,

「我要做一種魚肉堡， 用大比目魚做。」

the Filet-O-Fish sandwich.

Ray Kroc就說：「我看不太好吧!」

So the Filet-O-Fish sandwich actually started as halibut.

「我想做一種呼拉漢堡，

And it started because a local franchise owner

在麵包上放一片菠蘿。

found that when he served his McDonald's on Friday, nobody came.

我們倆各做各的， 打賭看誰贏。

Because it was a Catholic community, they needed fish.

誰的漢堡賣得多， 誰的漢堡是冠軍漢堡。」

So he went to Ray Kroc and he said,

哎，呼拉漢堡最後沒有贏， 對大海真是件悲傷的事，

"I'm going to bring you a fish sandwich, going to be made out of halibut."

所以他就做了比目魚堡。

Ray Kroc said, "I don't think it's going to work.

不過不妙的是， 魚堡賣30美分一個，

I want to do a Hula Burger,

Ray想要做到25美分。

and there's going to be a slice of pineapple on a bun.

所以他就去用大西洋鱈魚。

But let's do this, let's have a bet.

新英格蘭的大西洋鱈魚， 不用說大家都知道。

Whosever sandwich sells more, that will be the winning sandwich."

所以如今的麥香魚堡 用的是阿拉斯加黃線狹鱈，

Well, it's kind of sad for the ocean that the Hula Burger didn't win.

它是美國捕撈量最大的魚類，