Antarctica,

跟我一起到地球的底端

the highest, driest, windiest,

南極吧

and yes, coldest region on Earth --

南極是地球上最高, 最乾燥, 風最大

more arid than the Sahara

同時也是最冷的地方

and, in parts, colder than Mars.

它比薩哈拉沙漠還沒生氣

The ice of Antarctica glows

它的部分地區比火星還要冷

with a light so dazzling,

南極的冰層發出的

it blinds the unprotected eye.

耀眼光芒

Early explorers rubbed cocaine in their eyes

足可讓裸眼為之失明

to kill the pain of it.

早期進入此區的探險家們必須在眼中擦古柯鹼

The weight of the ice is such that the entire continent

來消除疼痛

sags below sea level, beneath its weight.

冰層的重量讓整的南極大陸

Yet, the ice of Antarctica

下陷到海平面之下

is a calendar of climate change.

然而,南極冰層

It records the annual rise and fall

是全球氣候變遷的一個活日曆

of greenhouse gases and temperatures

它完整紀錄每年溫室氣體

going back before the onset of the last ice ages.

及溫度的上上下下

Nowhere on Earth

年代可以追溯到上一個冰河時期

offers us such a perfect record.

地球上沒有其他地方

And here, scientists are drilling

可以提供我們如此完美的紀錄

into the past of our planet

在這裡，科學家們正用鑽頭

to find clues to the future

鑽進地球的過往歷史

of climate change.

以便發現未來氣候變遷

This past January,

的線索

I traveled to a place called WAIS Divide,

今年一月時

about 600 miles from the South Pole.

我到"南極洲西部冰原區(WAIS Divide)"這地方旅遊

It is the best place on the planet, many say,

它距離南極大約600英哩

to study the history of climate change.

很多人都認為這是地球上

There, about 45 scientists from the University of Wisconsin,

最適合研究氣候變遷的地方

the Desert Research Institute in Nevada and others

在那裏, 有大約45位科學家, 他們來自威斯康辛大學

have been working to answer a central question

內華達沙漠研究所及其他機構

about global warming.

他們一直致力於探討一個全球暖化

What is the exact relationship

的重要問題 那就是

between levels of greenhouse gases

溫室氣體程度

and planetary temperatures?

和地球溫度之間

It's urgent work. We know that temperatures are rising.

存在的真正關聯?

This past May was the warmest worldwide on record.

這工作有其急迫性.我們都知道全球溫度一直在上升

And we know that levels of greenhouse gases are rising too.

今年五月達到歷史新高

What we don't know

我們也知道溫室氣體的含量也在升高

is the exact, precise, immediate

但我們並不知道

impact of these changes

這些變化對於

on natural climate patterns --

自然氣候型態

winds, ocean currents,

真正 精確 及立即的衝擊是甚麼

precipitation rates, cloud formation,

這些氣候型態包括風流, 海流♪

things that bear on the health and well-being

降雨率, 雲的形成等

of billions of people.

都是攸關幾十億人健康

Their entire camp, every item of gear,

及福利的事項

was ferried 885 miles

這個營隊的所有帳篷及每一種用品

from McMurdo Station,

都是由885英里

the main U.S. supply base

外的McMurdo營站空運過來的

on the coast of Antarctica.

McMurdo營站是美國位於南極海岸

WAIS Divide itself though,

的主要供應基地

is a circle of tents in the snow.

至於南極洲西部冰原區則是

In blizzard winds, the crew sling ropes between the tents

由處於風雪中，圍成圓形的帳篷群所組成

so that people can feel their way safely

在大風雪中 組員們必須藉著連在帳篷間的繩索

to the nearest ice house

才能在最近的戶外廁所

and to the nearest outhouse.

及最近的冰房間

It snows so heavily there,

安全的穿梭

the installation was almost immediately buried.

那邊風雪實在太大了

Indeed, the researchers picked this site

所有的設備幾乎都立刻被風雪所淹沒

because ice and snow accumulates here

事實上 研究者之所以會選擇這個地點

10 times faster than anywhere else in Antarctica.

正因為在這裡累積冰雪的速度

They have to dig themselves out every day.

比南極任何地方快十倍

It makes for an exotic

工作人員必須每天由雪堆中把自己挖出來

and chilly commute.

這真是一條很奇異

(Laughter)

且寒冷的通道

But under the surface

(笑聲)

is a hive of industrial activity

在地表之下

centered around an eight-million-dollar drill assembly.

積極的工業探索活動正如火如荼的進行著

Periodically, this drill, like a biopsy needle,

他們圍繞著一台八百萬美元的鑽機

plunges thousands of feet deep into the ice

每隔一段時間，這台鑽機就像切片檢查的針一樣

to extract a marrow of gases

深入上千英尺的冰層中

and isotopes for analysis.

抽取其中所含的氣體

Ten times a day, they extract

和同位素來作分析

the 10-foot long cylinder of compressed ice crystals

每天十次，他們由

that contain the unsullied air and trace chemicals

十英尺長的壓縮冰晶柱萃取其中

laid down by snow,

未經污染的氣體和微量化學物質

season after season for thousands of years.

這些物質埋在

It's really a time machine.

數千年來累積的雪層下

At the peak of activity earlier this year,

它就像一台時間機器

the researchers lowered the drill

在今年初的探索高峰期時

an extra hundred feet deeper into the ice every day

研究者們每天把鑽頭再往冰層中

and another 365 years

多鑽探了一百英尺

deeper into the past.

那意謂著又挖進

Periodically, they remove

更早的365年的歷史

a cylinder of ice,

他們定期地將冰柱

like gamekeepers popping a spent shotgun shell

由鑽頭筒中取下

from the barrel of a drill.

就像獵場看守員將已經擊發的子彈殼

They inspect it, they check it for cracks,

退下一樣。

for drill damage, for spalls, for chips.

研究員檢查冰柱是否有裂縫，

More importantly,

有無被鑽頭刮傷產生破塊等。

they prepare it for inspection and analysis

更為重要的是，

by 27 independent laboratories

他們為位於美國和歐洲的

in the United States and Europe,

27個獨立實驗室

who will examine it for 40 different trace chemicals

提供樣品以進行檢測和分析

related to climate,

這些實驗室將檢測與氣候相關的四十種不同

some in parts per quadrillion.

的微量化學物，

Yes, I said that with a Q, quadrillion.

有的含量僅為百萬的四次方（一千萬億）之一。

They cut the cylinders up into three-foot sections

是的，我是指這個百萬的四次乘方（一千萬億）。

for easier handling and shipment

他們將冰柱分割成為三英尺的小段

back to these labs,

以方便冰柱處理和搬運

some 8,000 miles from the drill site.

到離鑽頭點約8000英里外

Each cylinder

的實驗室

is a parfait of time.

每個冰柱都是

This ice formed as snow

某段時間的真實片段。

15,800 years ago,

這些冰塊是大約15800年

when our ancestors were daubing themselves with paint

前的雪所形成，

and considering the radical new technology

那個時候人類的祖先還在玩塗料

of the alphabet.

及思考著關於文字的

Bathed in polarized light

先進技術。

and cut in cross-section,

在極光的浸沐下

this ancient ice reveals itself

古冰塊的截面

as a mosaic of colors,

展示出了某種

each one showing how conditions at depth in the ice

馬賽克色彩，

have affected this material

每一個都展現出冰塊中的深度

at depths where pressures can reach

如何影響了這種材料

a ton per square inch.

在不同深度時 壓力可達到

Every year, it begins with a snowflake,

每平方英寸一噸。

and by digging into fresh snow,

每年都下雪，

we can see how this process is ongoing today.

由鑽探進入最新鮮的雪層，

This wall of undisturbed snow,

今天我們可以了解這個過程是如何進行的。

back-lit by sunlight,

在未經開採的雪層下，

shows the striations of winter and summer snow,

太陽光所造成的背光

layer upon layer.

映射出冬雪和夏雪的條紋，

Each storm scours the atmosphere,

一層接著一層。

washing out dust, soot,

每次暴風雪席捲著大氣，

trace chemicals,

沖洗掉灰塵，煤煙，

and depositing them on the snow pack

微量化學物，

year after year,

並將其沉澱於雪層上

millennia after millennia,

年復一年，

creating a kind of periodic table of elements

成千上萬年，

that at this point

形成了本地

is more than 11,000 feet thick.

超過11000英尺厚的雪層中

From this, we can detect an extraordinary number of things.

的這種時代週期表

We can see the calcium

從冰柱中，我們可以檢測到種類繁多的物質。

from the world's deserts,

我們可以找到

soot from distant wildfires,

來自世界沙漠的鈣，

methane as an indicator of the strength of a Pacific monsoon,

來自遙遠野火的煤煙，

all wafted on winds from warmer latitudes

以及被當作太平洋雨季的指示劑的甲烷等，

to this remote and very cold place.

它們都從較溫暖的緯度

Most importantly,

飄到這遙遠寒冷的地方

these cylinders and this snow

最為重要的是，

trap air.

這些冰柱和雪層

Each cylinder is about 10 percent ancient air,

可捕捉氣體。

a pristine time capsule

每個冰柱大約含有10%的古代氣體

of greenhouse gases -- carbon dioxide,

是溫室氣體最原始的

methane, nitrous oxide --

時間膠囊---二氧化碳，

all unchanged from the day that snow formed

甲烷和氧化氮--

and first fell.

從雪形成落下的那天開始

And this is the object of their scrutiny.

便未曾發生變化。

But don't we already know

這就是這些研究要仔細調查的。

what we need to know about greenhouse gases?

但是關於溫室氣體該知道的資訊

Why do we need to study this anymore?

我們不是都已經瞭如指掌的嗎?

Don't we already know how they affect temperatures?

為什麼我們還需要進一步研究它呢？

Don't we already know the consequences

我們不是已經知道它如何影響氣溫嗎？

of a changing climate on our settled civilization?

我們不是已經都知道變化的氣候 所帶來的結果

The truth is, we only know the outlines,

將如何影響我們的文明社會嗎？

and what we don't completely understand,

事實是，我們僅僅知道其大致輪廓，

we can't properly fix.

並非是完全徹底理解，

Indeed, we run the risk of making things worse.

我們不但沒有能力進行修復。

Consider, the single most successful

事實上，我們還冒著把事情弄得更糟的風險。

international environmental effort of the 20th century,

舉個例子吧, 20世紀最為成功的

the Montreal Protocol,

國際環境保護條例，

in which the nations of Earth banded together to protect the planet

蒙特利公約

from the harmful effects of ozone-destroying chemicals

其目的在聯合世界各國以保護地球

used at that time

免於受到當時使用於空調，電冰箱

in air conditioners, refrigerators and other cooling devices.

和其它冷卻設備中

We banned those chemicals,

的臭氧破壞化學物的影響。

and we replaced them, unknowingly,

我們禁止這些化學物的使用

with other substances

卻無知的用

that, molecule per molecule,

另外一種物質替換,

are a hundred times more potent

但事實上新物質分子

as heat-trapping, greenhouse gases

就其捕捉的太陽熱能

than carbon dioxide.

都比二氧化碳

This process requires

強一百倍

extraordinary precautions.

這樣的過程需要

The scientists must insure

特別的謹慎預防。

that the ice is not contaminated.

科學家們必須確保

Moreover, in this 8,000-mile journey,

冰柱未受到污染。

they have to insure this ice doesn't melt.

並且在以後未來長達8000英里的旅途中，

Imagine juggling a snowball across the tropics.

他們必須得確保冰柱不會融化。

They have to, in fact,

想像一下夾著雪球穿過熱帶地區吧。

make sure this ice never gets warmer

他們必須

than about 20 degrees below zero,

確保冰柱溫度不會

otherwise, the key gases inside it will dissipate.

高於零下20度，

So, in the coldest place on Earth,

否則冰柱中的關鍵氣體就會揮發。

they work inside a refrigerator.

因此在地球最為寒冷的地區

As they handle the ice, in fact,

他們實質上是在冰箱裏面工作

they keep an extra pair of gloves warming in an oven,

事實上當他們處理冰柱的同時，

so that, when their work gloves freeze

另外一雙手套是置於烤箱中的，

and their fingers stiffen,

當他們帶在手上的手套凍結，

they can don a fresh pair.

手指變得僵硬時，

They work against the clock and against the thermometer.

他們就換上烤暖的那雙手套。

So far, they've packed up

他們的工作，是必須與時間和溫差賽跑的

about 4,500 feet of ice cores

目前為止，他們已經堆積了

for shipment back to the United States.

大約4500英尺的冰雪，

This past season,

這些冰雪都將會被運回美國。

they manhandled them across the ice

在剛過去的季節中，

to waiting aircraft.

他們將這些冰雪搬運出冰層

The 109th Air National Guard

以等待空運。

flew the most recent shipment of ice

109號空軍護衛隊

back to the coast of Antarctica,

將最近的冰雪

where it was boarded onto a freighter,

運到 南極洲海岸，

shipped across the tropics to California,

在這裡將會被搬上貨輪，

unloaded, put on a truck,

穿過熱帶以來到加州，

driven across the desert

卸貨並裝運上貨車，

to the National Ice Core Laboratory in Denver, Colorado,

穿過沙漠

where, as we speak,

抵達位於丹佛(科羅拉多州)的國家冰雪中心研究室

scientists are now slicing this material up

在那裡，正於我們所說的那樣，

for samples, for analysis,

科學家將材料切成片

to be distributed

以製成用於分析的樣品，

to the laboratories around the country

再將樣品分送到 。

and in Europe.

全國各地和歐洲 的

Antarctica was this planet's

實驗室裡

last empty quarter --

南極洲是

the blind spot

人類不斷擴張

in our expanding vision of the world.

的世界視野下

Early explorers

地球的最後一個未被探研的盲點。

sailed off the edge of the map,

早期的探險家們

and they found a place

航海來到地圖的邊緣地帶

where the normal rules of time and temperature

他們找到一個

seem suspended.

一般的時間和溫度規則

Here, the ice seems a living presence.

似乎都暫時失效的地區。

The wind that rubs against it

在這裡，冰雪就如同活生生的存在。

gives it voice.

暴風雪不斷地侵蝕著南極洲，

It is a voice of experience.

賜於它獨特的魅力。

It is a voice we should heed.

這是一種有魅力的體驗。

Thank you.

而這正是我們所需要的嗓音。

(Applause)

謝謝大家