Name: 頭皮屑洗髮水裡有什麼？化學家解析Head & Shoulders的成分 | WSJ標籤實驗室 (What's In Dandruff Shampoo? Chemist Breaks Down Head & Shoulders Ingredients | WSJ Label Lab)
Uploaded: 2023-05-08T02:40:33.000Z
Duration: 8 min 41 s

This is what your hair looks like when it's dirty.

- 這就是你的頭髮變髒時的樣子。

And this is what shampoo does to that dirt.

- [旁白]這就是洗髮水對這些汙垢的作用。

Surfactants form these micelles around the dirt, which is what grabs onto dirt and oil.

- 表面活性劑在汙垢周圍形成這些膠束、這就是抓住灰塵和油的原因。 

That was the dirt screaming for its life.

那是泥土。它在為自己的生命吶喊。(笑) 

Erica Douglas has been a cosmetic chemist for more than a decade,

- 艾麗卡-道格拉斯一直是一名化妝品化學家。十多年來、 

and today she's going to break down the ingredients in Head & Shoulders Classic Clean dandruff shampoo.

今天，她將為大家分析一下這些成分。在Head & Shoulders經典清潔頭皮屑洗髮水。 

It's actually a fairly simple formula. Not a lot of ingredients.

這其實是一個相當簡單的公式。成分不多。 

That means that there's not a lot of fluff in this formula.

這意味著這個公式中沒有很多花哨的東西。

Erica broke down the ingredients into these categories.

- [旁白]埃裡卡分解了成分納入這些類別。 

One of the first ingredients that I see is pyrithione zinc.

- 我看到的第一個成分之一是是吡啶硫酮鋅。 

This is one of the most common actives used in the cosmetic space to fight dandruff.

這是最常見的活性物之一在化妝品領域用於對抗頭皮屑。 

Without this ingredient, it's just the shampoo.

如果沒有這種成分，就只有洗髮水。

Dandruff is actually caused by a fungus called Malassezia, and it feeds on the oil.

頭皮屑實際上是由一種真菌引起的稱為馬拉色菌，它以油為食。 

The FDA allows up to 2% of pyrithione zinc in products like this shampoo, which are applied and then rinsed off.

- [旁白]美國食品和藥物管理局允許最多2%的吡啶硫酮鋅。在像這種洗髮水的產品中、 敷上後再衝洗乾淨。 

The Classic Clean formula uses pyrithione zinc at 1%.

經典清潔配方使用1%的吡啶硫酮鋅。

They actually banned pyrithione zinc from being used as a cosmetic active.

- 他們實際上禁止了吡硫鎓鋅。誘變性，或對生殖系統有毒。 

According to the company, the EU version uses this ingredient instead of pyrithione zinc.

據該公司稱、歐盟版本使用這種成分 而不是吡啶硫酮鋅。 

So the active ingredient handles the dandruff, but surfactants like these sulfates are what actually clean the scalp.

是以，該活性成分可以處理頭皮屑、但像這些硫酸鹽的表面活性劑 是真正清潔頭皮的東西。 

Surfactants are the soapy part of the shampoo.

- 表面活性劑是洗髮水的肥皂部分。

It's what causes the suds, it's actually what is pulling the dirt and the oil off of your hair and scalp.

這就是造成肥皂泡的原因、這實際上是在拉動 頭髮和頭皮上的灰塵和油汙。 

I believe that they are using this as their primary surfactant, and the cocamidopropyl betaine is the secondary surfactant in this formula.

我相信他們正在使用這個作為其主要表面活性劑，以及椰油酰胺丙基甜菜鹼 是該配方中的次要表面活性劑。 

Surfactants work a little something like this.

- [旁白] 表面活性劑的工作原理有點像這樣。

We're gonna just use some regular pepper, have it float on top of some normal deionized water.

- 我們只是要用一些普通的胡椒、讓它漂浮在一些正常的去離子水上面。 

These surfactants have their hydrophilic head and their hydrophobic tails, and so they form these micelles around the dirt, which is what grabs onto dirt and oil, and helps it to remove it from the hair and the scalp.

這些表面活性劑有其親水頭和它們的疏水尾巴，是以它們形成這些膠束 圍繞著汙垢，這就是抓住汙垢和油的原因、 並幫助它清除它 從頭髮和頭皮。 

瞬間你就會看到它是如何排斥它的。

Some surfactants create more suds than others, but...

- [旁白] 一些表面活性劑創造了比其他的更多的肥皂水，但是。 

Foam actually doesn't dictate how well a shampoo is cleaning your hair.

- 保麗龍實際上並沒有決定性的作用洗髮水對頭髮的清潔程度。 

There are certain surfactants that can produce a lot of foam, like this one,

有一些表面活性劑能產生大量保麗龍的，比如這個、 

but then there are other surfactants that are more mild.

但也有其他更溫和的表面活性劑。

And we call this the cylinder shake method.

而我們把這稱為圓柱體搖動法。

You can see how much foam is going to last, and how it separates out.

你可以看到保麗龍要持續多少時間、以及它是如何分離出來的。 

A lot of hairstylists view sulfates as being too harsh.

很多髮型師認為硫酸鹽過於苛刻。

I see sulfates as a great surfactant when used in moderation, and they're also being formulated in conjunction with other conditioning agents that allow it to moisturize and condition the hair at the same time.

我認為硫酸鹽是一種很好的表面活性劑當適度使用時，它們也被制定為 與其他調節劑一起使用 使其能夠滋潤和養護頭髮 在同一時間。 

That's the job of this ingredient here, otherwise known as a silicone.

- [旁白]這就是這裡的成分的工作、也就是所謂的硅膠。 

They help to maintain the water level in your hair.

- 它們有助於保持頭髮中的水位。

This is water with just a little bit of Violet 1 colorant, versus when I do the same thing with dimethicone.

這是水，只加了一點紫羅蘭1號著色劑、與我用二甲基硅氧烷做同樣的事情時相比。 

And dimethicone just has a little bit of the Blue 1 colorant.

而聚二甲基硅氧烷只是有一點點的的藍1號著色劑。 

You notice how the water went right through the sponge.

你注意到水是如何直接穿過海綿的。

That's because it soaked in and went straight to the bottom, versus this silicone stain right on top.

這是因為它浸泡在並直接進入了底部、 對比一下，這個硅膠汙漬就在上面。 

This is the difference between when your hair is absorbing moisture, versus using a silicone like dimethicone to help seal the cuticle and maintain moisture content.

這是在當你的頭髮在吸收水分時、 與使用聚二甲基硅氧烷這樣的硅酮相比 以幫助密封角質層並保持水分含量。 

Silicones have really gotten this bad rep.

有機硅確實得到了這種不好的評價。

They've been thought to weigh the hair down or leave a buildup.

人們認為它們會使頭髮變重或留下堆積物。 

They have the ability to stay on the hair, to seal the cuticles, and they do come off the hair when using a shampoo.

他們有能力留在頭髮上、封閉角質層，而且它們確實從頭髮上脫落了 在使用洗髮水時。 

Now, for what gives the shampoo it's distinct look.

- [敘述者]現在，對於什麼給了洗髮水它的獨特外觀。 

So Head & Shoulders uses Blue 1 and Red 33 as their colorants, and that's how you get this really cool light blue looking color.

- 所以Head & Shoulders使用藍1和紅33作為他們的著色劑，而這就是你如何得到 這個看起來非常酷的淺藍色。 

In addition to the glycol distearate, which is used as a pearlizing agent to give it that pearl look.

除了乙二醇二硬脂酸酯之外、用作珠光劑 以使其具有珍珠般的外觀。 

I don't know what the ratios are that they use.

我不知道他們使用的比例是什麼。

First, I'm gonna start with my blue number one.

首先，我將從我的藍色一號開始。

Okay, and then we'll try to see what happens when we add a little Red 33.

哦，好的，然後我們將嘗試看看會發生什麼。當我們加入一點紅33。 

As you can see, I literally put less than a gram in, and that's how dark it got.

正如你所看到的，我實際上只放了不到一克的東西、而這就是它變得如此黑暗。 

Blue 1 and Red 33 are both synthetic colors approved for use in cosmetics with some use restrictions.

- 藍1和紅33都是合成色被準許在化妝品中使用，但有一些使用限制。 

Some of the concerns that come around synthetic color would be that it could potentially be an irritant or an allergen for some people.

- 圍繞合成色素產生的一些擔憂這可能是一種潛在的刺激物。 或對某些人來說是一種過敏源。 

According to the environmental working group, Safety Ratings, Blue 1 is marked as high hazard while Red 33 is marked as moderate.

- [旁白]根據環境工作小組的說法、安全評級，藍色1被標記為高危險性 而紅33被標記為適度。 

A Head & Shoulders representative reiterated that these dyes are FDA approved, noting that the Classic Clean formula is known for its signature blue color.

Head & Shoulders的一位代表重申這些染料是FDA準許的、 注意到 "經典清潔 "公式 以其標誌性的藍色而聞名。 

It just lists that they use fragrance. Nothing else.

- 它只是列出了他們使用的香精。沒有別的了。 

Fragrance contains 30, 40 ingredients sometimes.

The ingredients that make up a fragrance are often proprietary.

構成香味的成分往往是專有的。 

But according to Erica's scientific sniffer.

- [旁白]但根據艾麗卡的科學嗅探器，

While it's not listed on the label, Head & Shoulders does list over 20 ingredients found in the Classic Clean fragrance formulation online, including some considered allergens in the EU.

- [旁白] 雖然標籤上沒有列出、Head & Shoulders確實列出了超過20種成分 在網上找到了經典清潔香氛配方、 包括一些在歐盟被認為是過敏原的食物。 

And soon, this could become a more common practice.

而且很快，這可能成為一種更普遍的做法。

A new law was put into action which actually will now require cosmetic products to list fragrance allergens on the label going into 2024.

- 一項新的法律被付諸實施這實際上現在將需要化妝品 將於2024年在標籤上列出香精過敏原。 

Consistency is also a crucial part of a shampoo's formulation.

- [旁白] 一致性也是一個關鍵部分屬於洗髮水的配方。 

Some of the ingredients that they're using to give that thick, creamy feel is glycol distearate, also the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.

- 他們正在使用的一些成分賦予厚實的奶油感的是乙二醇二硬脂酸酯、 還有瓜爾膠羥丙基三甲基氯化銨。 

Guar is a great conditioning detangling agent, but it also gives the formula some thickness.

瓜爾豆是一種很好的調理去汙劑、但它也給了配方一些厚度。 

用鹽可以給你那種厚實的感覺。

- [旁白]雖然最終產品感覺很厚實。

The most surprising thing about shampoo formulations is that it's mostly water.

- 關於洗髮水配方的最令人驚訝的事情是，它大部分是水。 

Any product that has water in it has the potential to grow mold, fungus, bacteria.

任何含有水的產品都有可能來生長黴菌、真菌、細菌。 

呃，我們不想要任何這些東西。

Different packages The Wall Street Journal purchased had different preservatives listed.

- [旁白]不同的包裝華爾街日報》購買了 列出了不同的防腐劑。 

The preservative used in this product is sodium benzoate.

- 本產品中使用的防腐劑是苯甲酸鈉。

Another version of the same product lists these two additional preservatives, which have a high incidence with skin allergies.

- [旁白]同一產品的另一個版本列出了這兩種額外的防腐劑、 這與皮膚過敏有很高的發生率。 

The company said it recently shifted away from this preservative combination to one with sodium benzoate.

該公司表示，它最近轉移了來自這種防腐劑組合的 與苯甲酸鈉的比例為1:1。 

But products with the combination are still currently sold on store shelves.

但是，結合的產品目前仍在商店貨架上銷售。 

Before a product hits the shelf, one crucial element must be tested. That's the pH.

在產品擺上貨架之前、必須對一個關鍵因素進行測試。 這就是pH值。 

We are measuring a pH of 7.3 for this Head & Shoulders product.

- 我們測量的pH值為7.3為這個Head & Shoulders產品。 

This is not abnormal, but it is on the high end of what I would normally see.

這不是不正常的，但它是在高端。我通常會看到的東西。 

Head & Shoulders said this reading is in line with the standard range of its formulas, which it said remains America's number one anti-dandruff shampoo with moisture levels as they are.

- [旁白]Head & Shoulders說這個閱讀是符合的與其公式的標準範圍、 它說這仍然是美國的 頭號去屑洗髮水 溼度水準是這樣的。 

And there are few things to note on the overall packaging.

而在整體包裝上，有幾件事需要注意。

They claim that this bottle is paraben free.

- 他們聲稱這瓶酒不含防腐劑。

I would agree that this is a paraben free product.

我同意這是一款不含防腐劑的產品。

The paraben issue is a very provocative topic.

對羥基苯甲酸酯的問題是一個非常具有挑釁性的話題。

There have been some preliminary studies that show that there could be possible linkage between parabens and cancer.

已經有一些初步研究表明有可能存在的聯繫 對羥基苯甲酸酯類與癌症之間的關係。 

There's no conclusive scientific data that links paraben usage and cosmetics directly to cancer,

沒有結論性的科學數據將對羥基苯甲酸酯的使用和化妝品與癌症直接聯繫起來、 

but the possibilities of it being a carcinogen has provoked some limitations on how this ingredient is being used in the cosmetic space.

但它是一種致癌物的可能性引起了對這種成分的一些限制 正在被用於化妝品領域。 

And Erica sees some opportunities for improvements.

- [旁白]而Erica看到一些改進的機會。 

If I could change anything about this formula, I would probably add a few more conditioning and moisturizing agents just to give more functionality and more control to the actual hair.

- 如果我可以改變這個公式的任何內容、我可能會再增加一些 調理和保溼劑 只是為了賦予更多的功能 並對實際的頭髮進行更多的控制。 

I think that dandruff is a little hush hush because nobody wants to be known as the snowflake.

我認為，頭皮屑是一個小隱患因為沒有人願意被稱為 "雪花"。 

I think a lot of people associate dandruff with being unclean, but that's completely not true.

我想很多人都會把頭皮屑聯繫到但這完全不是事實。 