You might recognize me from the show Worth It

你可能會在 "值得 "這個節目中認出我來

where I taste foods at different price points

在這裡，我品嚐不同價位的食物

with my buddies Adam and Steven.

與我的朋友亞當和史蒂芬。

In this video series, I attempt to recreate

在這個視頻系列中，我試圖重新創建

my favorite things I had on Worth It

我最喜歡的東西，我有在Worth It

to try to better understand what makes great food

試圖更好地瞭解是什麼讓偉大的食物

really delicious.

真的很好吃。

Today it's cold fried chicken.

今天是冷炒雞。

As in temperature, cold, fried chicken.

如溫度，冷，炸雞。

In the Worth It fried chicken sandwich episode,

在《值錢的炸雞三明治》一集中。

we had this spicy cold fried chicken

我們吃了這個冷炒雞

from a place called Fuku.

來自一個叫福的地方。

It was both exhilarating--

它既讓人欣喜 --

(Steven and Andrew exclaim)

（史蒂芬和安德魯感嘆）

(Andrew laughs)

（安德魯笑）

- Oh wow.

- 哦，哇。

- And fascinating that it was very tasty

- 迷人的是，它是非常美味的

despite being a cold piece of meat.

儘管是一塊冰冷的肉。

This fried chicken is actually based on a dish

這道炸雞其實是根據一道菜來的。

from another restaurant that has not previously

以前沒有的其他餐廳的

been on Worth It, Momofuku Ko,

一直在上《值得》，百福高。

but I've eaten at before,

但我以前吃過。

actually with Adam and Annie after a shoot once.

其實與亞當和安妮拍攝後一次。

The original cold fried chicken is not spicy,

原來的冷炒雞是不辣的。

but possibly one of my favorite things

但可能是我最喜歡的事情之一

I've ever eaten.

我曾經吃過。

And I think making this dish is going to help me

而且我覺得做這道菜能幫到我

with something that I'm really curious in,

與東西，我真的很好奇在。

which is the fundamentals of why something tastes good.

這是東西為什麼好吃的根本。

Holy (beep).

聖（嗶）。

Cold fried chicken sounds counterintuitive

冷炸雞聽起來很反常

and yet this dish is undeniably delicious.

然而這道菜無疑是美味的。

To start off, I'm going to be speaking

首先，我要講的是

with the executive chef from Momofuku Ko, Chef Sean Gray.

與Momofuku Ko的行政主廚Sean Gray一起。

I'm really curious about this cold fried chicken

我真的很好奇這個冷炒雞的做法

that you guys are pretty famous for now.

你們現在已經很出名了。

- It kind of came from two different places,

- 這算是來自兩個不同的地方。

one of which was this like running joke

其中一個是這樣的笑話

that we wanted to have a restaurant

我們想開一家餐廳

that served food that was already all prepared.

提供已經全部準備好的食物。

And then we were doing this private dinner,

然後我們在做這個私人晚宴。

thought we would just do this fried chicken spread.

以為我們會只是做這個炸雞傳播。

The dinner was going on much longer than we anticipated.

晚宴進行的時間比我們預計的要長得多。

And we kept frying the chicken in these short bursts

我們一直在煎雞肉，用這種短促的時間來煎雞肉

to keep it nicely fresh for when it did go out.

讓它保持很好的新鮮度，當它確實熄滅。

Leftover chicken we put in the walk-in,

剩的雞肉我們放進了步入式。

and towards the end of the night,

而到了晚上的時候。

everyone kept going in and out of the walk-in

每個人都在步入式的房間裡進進出出

just eating this chicken.

只是吃這隻雞。

And I was kind of like, you know,

我當時有點像，你知道的。

maybe we could actually serve this,

也許我們可以實際服務於此。

like, maybe this could be a thing.

喜歡，也許這可能是一個東西。

Everyone else working here was really amped up about it.

其他在這裡工作的人都很興奮。

Having like a relationship to it of eating cold chicken

跟它有種吃涼雞的關係。

out of your fridge, late at night,

從你的冰箱裡拿出來，在深夜。

it's just very satisfying.

它只是非常滿意。

You know, we spent the next month

你知道，我們花了一個月的時間

really working on the recipe, we worked out the flavors.

真正的工作在配方上， 我們研究出的味道。

- From a flavor and texture standpoint,

- 從味道和口感的角度來看。

why does it work cold?

為什麼會出現冷門？

- Well, I think with chicken and especially cooked proteins,

- 嗯，我認為與雞肉，尤其是熟蛋白。

all of the juices and all of that fat and collagen,

所有的汁液和所有的脂肪和膠原蛋白。

all that kind of stuff,

所有這些東西。

stays in the meat versus like cutting into roasted chicken,

留在肉裡與像切成烤雞。

it's gonna steam out or it's gonna lose

要不就是蒸不出來，要不就是沒了

some more moisture content.

多一些水分含量。

- Right, no, that makes a ton of sense.

- 對，不，這很有道理。

- You know, and then you pick it up

- 你知道，然後你把它撿起來

and it's like refrigerator temperature.

而且就像冰箱的溫度。

I can't think of any other cold foods

我想不出還有什麼其他的寒性食物了

that have that kind of mild crunch,

有那種溫和的脆感。

like a 65% crunch.

像65%的緊縮。

I don't know, it's this in between texture,

我不知道，就是這種介於兩者之間的質感。

it's like soft and crunchy at the same time.

這就像軟和脆的同時。

- Is the cold fried chicken available right now?

- 現在有涼拌雞嗎？

- Doing the chicken, it's a to-go item.

- 做雞肉，這是一個要去的項目。

We've been working a lot on pizzas,

我們在披薩上做了很多工作。

so we're trying to have, like everything would just be--

所以，我們試圖有， 像一切都將只是 -

Hang on one second.

等一下

- Yeah, no problem.

- 是的，沒問題。

Is there one right in front of you?

有一個就在你面前嗎？

Could you pan down and show me it?

你能往下看給我看看嗎？

- No, it's gone.

- 不，它不見了。

(Andrew laughs)

（安德魯笑）

- Not a problem.

- 沒問題

Well, thanks so much for chatting.

嗯，非常感謝你的哈拉。

I'm really excited to make this chicken.

我真的很想做這隻雞。

- Yeah, I'm excited to see how it comes out.

- 是啊，我很想看看它是怎麼出來的。

- Okay, Sean helped me out with some of the details

- 好吧，肖恩幫我解決了一些細節問題。

of the recipe.

的配方。

So far one of the most curious aspects to me

到目前為止，我最好奇的一個方面就是

is what is happening inside the meat of the chicken.

是雞肉裡面發生的事情。

To start, we're making this brine.

首先，我們要做這個滷水。

First ingredient of which is liquid Koji.

其中第一種成分是液體麴。

From what I understand, Koji is the fermentation agent

據我所知，小二是發酵劑。

in making sake.

在製作清酒的過程中。

That same fungus is also used to make soy sauce and miso.

同樣的菌類也被用來製作醬油和味噌。

I think in this recipe,

我想在這個配方中。

it's going to be doing a job similar to buttermilk,

它要做的工作類似於酪乳。

which is to tenderize the meat.

這是為了使肉質更嫩。

And then just a bunch of water.

然後就是一堆水。

And then I put chicken in.

然後我把雞肉放進去。

I'm gonna put a tiny plate on top

我要在上面放一個小盤子。

to make sure everything stays submerged.

以確保所有的東西都保持在水下。

Okay, so I'm gonna cover this up.

好吧，所以我要掩蓋這一點。

(rustling)

[沙沙聲]

So this will brine for many hours

所以，這個要醃製好幾個小時

and then it'll be time for frying.

然後就可以炒菜了。

Oh God, this is gonna being a horrible shaped to fit

哦，上帝，這是要去是一個可怕的形狀，以適應。

in my refrigerator.

在我的冰箱裡。

So the chicken's been brined.

所以雞肉已經滷好了。

I also pulled it from the brine

我還把它從鹽水裡拉出來

and let it sit in the refrigerator uncovered for a while

並讓它在冰箱裡不加蓋地放上一段時間。

to dry the exterior.

來乾燥外部。

So before we fry the chicken,

所以在我們炸雞之前。

there's a couple other elements we need to make.

還有一些其他的元素，我們需要做。

First there's a finishing salt.

首先是整理鹽。

This is just a seasoned salt with nothing crazy in it,

這只是一種調味鹽，裡面沒有什麼瘋狂的東西。

you know, it's garlic powder, onion powder,

你知道，這是大蒜粉，洋蔥粉。

cayenne, stuff like that in here.

辣椒，這樣的東西在這裡。

Really, not even a grain yet?

真的，連一粒都還沒有？

Come on.

來吧。

Finishing salt is pretty interesting to me,

精鹽對我來說挺有意思的。

because it's not really a step of cooking

因為這並不是真正的烹飪步驟。

that I think about.

我想到的。

Usually the only thing that falls into the category

通常情況下，只有屬於

for me is like cheese.

對我來說就像奶酪。

The other finished element of the fried chicken

炸雞的另一個成品元素

is a glaze for once it's done frying.

是煎好後的釉料。

Okay, welcome to the stove area.

好了，歡迎來到爐子區。

Water and sugar, little bit of salt, soy sauce,

水和糖，少許鹽，醬油。

and this is all comes together now.

而這一切都在一起了。

This glaze is a prime example of how

這款釉料是一個很好的例子，說明

what I'm able to do at home is going to differ a little bit

我在家裡能做的事情會有一點不同。

from what they do at the restaurant,

從他們在餐廳的工作。

because I'm not able to find the exact same ingredients.

因為我找不到完全相同的原料。

I should still be able to get a glaze for my chicken

我的雞肉應該還能上釉吧？

that will be pretty flavorful.

那將是相當有味道的。

Last thing we're adding is green hot sauce and Yuzukosho.

最後我們要加的是青辣醬和柚子莊。

Yuzu is this citrus,

柚子就是這種柑橘。

Yuzukosho is this Japanese fermented product.

柚子莊就是這種日本的發酵產品。

Very citrus-y.

很有柑橘味。

I don't know if like pine tree resin was delicious.

我不知道像松樹樹脂是否好吃。

And that's that.

就是這樣。

It's salty, sweet, it's a little spicy.

鹹的，甜的，有點辣。

Makes me wanna do this.

讓我想這樣做。

This is cooled down.

這是被冷卻下來的。

I can now set this aside

我現在可以把這個放在一邊

for when I'm done frying the chicken.

當我做完炸雞時用的

Okay, now it's time to make the dredge and the batter.

好了，現在是時候做搓衣板和麵糊了。

Combination of wheat flour and rice flour and corn starch,

小麥粉和大米粉及玉米澱粉的組合。

which I believe will help a crunchier final chicken.

我相信這將有助於更脆的最終雞肉。

I really like the way that flour smells.

我很喜歡麵粉的味道。

It has a very cozy smell to it.

它有一種很溫馨的味道。

It reminds me of a pantry.

這讓我想起了一個儲藏室。

Oh.

哦。

Oh, God.

哦，天啊

I'm wearing the wrong color for this.

我穿錯了這個顏色。

Okay.

好吧，我知道了

God.

上帝啊

This is going to be the dredge for the chicken

這將是雞肉的疏浚物

as well as the dry ingredient for the batter

以及麵糊的乾料。

and then the liquid elements,

然後是液體元素。

which are beer and vodka.

其中啤酒和伏特加。

Alcohol is the primary liquid in this batter,

酒精是這種麵糊的主要液體。

I believe because it will evaporate faster

我相信是因為它蒸發得比較快

resulting in a crispier texture.

導致口感更脆。

This needs to go in the fridge to stay very cold.

這需要放進冰箱裡，保持很冷。

We'll set up the frying oil

我們去放油

and then dredge and batter right before frying.

然後在油炸前馬上搓漿、上漿。

Welcome to the fry zone.

歡迎來到炒貨區。

So we have to fry this chicken four times.

所以我們要把這隻雞煎四次。

And the first time is going to be

而第一次將是

just in our flour dredge and into the oil.

就在我們的麵粉中搓揉，然後放入油中。

Each time, it's at a different specific temperature.

每一次，都是在不同的特定溫度下。

And the interesting thing is that it's relatively low.

而有趣的是，它的價格比較低。

This happens for just three minutes.

這種情況只發生了三分鐘。

Small kitchen problems,

小廚房問題。

I need to have a place for this chicken to land,

我得給這隻雞找個落腳的地方。

so we're gonna go right here onto a wire rack.

所以我們要去這裡到一個電線架。

Okay, so I'm turning my oil off for now

好吧，所以我現在把我的油關了。

because the chicken needs to cool

因為雞需要冷卻

before the next batter and fry.

在下一次麵糊之前，再進行油炸。

You can see where some of my chicken

你可以看到我的一些雞

came in contact with the bottom of the pot.

與鍋底接觸。

It got a little hotter than probably is desirably.

它變得有點熱，比可能是可取的。

So there's also a specific instruction

所以也有專門的訓示

to turn the chicken over after a few minutes.

幾分鐘後將雞肉翻過來。

Flipping it will help

翻轉一下就好了

more evenly drain the chicken, I guess.

更加均勻的瀝乾雞肉，我想。

So far this is unlike any way I've ever cooked meat,

到目前為止，這和我以往烹調肉類的方式都不一樣。

so I don't know if I'm doing well or not.

所以我不知道自己做得好不好。

The chicken is down to room temp,

雞肉已經降到了室溫。

so it's time to pull the batter from the fridge,

所以，它的時間拉麵糊 從冰箱。

batter it, get this back in the fryer.

漿糊它，得到這個回在油炸機。

The fryer temperature is now a little bit higher,

現在油炸機的溫度有點高。

up to 330.

高達330。

Oh no, don't stick together!

哦，不，不要粘在一起！

Okay, these are getting quite dark,

好吧，這些都變得相當黑暗。

so I'm gonna pull them out of the fryer.

所以我要把他們從油炸鍋里拉出來。

I feel like mine have gotten very dark, very quickly.

我感覺我的已經變得非常黑，非常快。

They are quite crispy sounding already though.

不過聽起來已經很脆了。

Same thing's gonna happen here,

同樣的事情會發生在這裡。

I'm gonna flip them after a few minutes.

幾分鐘後，我就會翻開它們。

In other news, I did not really understand

在其他新聞中，我真的不明白

how long this was gonna take

這要花多長時間

and it's almost night time.

而這幾乎是晚上的時間。

Now we wait another 15-20 minutes.

現在我們再等15-20分鐘。

Fry number three, get the batter out of the fridge,

炒三號，從冰箱裡拿出麵糊。

chicken back in the batter and into the fryer.

將雞肉放回麵糊中，再放入油炸鍋中。

So each of these fries should take

所以每根薯條都要

between two and a half and three minutes

二分半鐘到三分種

depending on the color.

根據顏色的不同。

And I'm just bobbing these babies up and down.

我只是把這些寶貝上下晃動。

Okay, I'm pulling these bad boys out.

好吧，我把這些壞孩子拉出來。

These are starting to look like what I recall

這些開始看起來像我的記憶

the chicken in the restaurant looking like.

餐館裡的雞看起來像。

The thickness of the shell,

殼體的厚度；

not all of them are evenly so.

並非所有的人都是均勻的。

In my small pot, they're kind of bumping into each other.

在我的小盆裡，它們有點互相碰撞。

And now we wait another couple minutes,

現在我們又等了幾分鐘。

flip them again, let them rest evenly.

再翻轉，讓他們均勻地休息。

Oh, do you hear that?

哦，你聽到了嗎？

It's like gravel.

就像砂石一樣。

Geez.

天啊

Now I'll just let these cool some more

現在我要讓這些東西再冷卻一些。

and then the last fry.

然後再進行最後的炒制。

Dammit, I've overshot the heat a little bit.

該死的，我有點過火了。

It's time for the final fry.

是時候進行最後的炒作了。

This process reminds me of a blacksmith's job

這個過程讓我想起了鐵匠的工作。

in perfecting steel.

在完善鋼鐵。

It needs to be heated and cooled very carefully

它需要非常小心地加熱和冷卻。

to achieve the right hardness.

以達到合適的硬度。

If it's too hard, it'll be brittle

如果太硬，就會變脆。

and break on the first use,

並在第一次使用時斷裂。

but if it's not hard enough,

但如果不夠硬。

then it won't serve it's purpose.

那就達不到它的目的了。

Okay, so it's the very end of the day,

好吧，所以這是今天的最後一天。

it's getting quite dark.

天色已經很暗了

Last thing to do is to glaze the chicken.

最後要做的是給雞上釉。

So the instructions say to do this

所以說明書上說要這樣做

in one swift motion.

一下子就搞定了。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

It's very difficult not to each freshly made fried chicken.

很難不每個新鮮的炸雞。

I'm gonna pack these away and try them tomorrow.

我要把這些東西打包帶走，明天再試試。

Before I pulled out the fried chicken,