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  • [TED: ideas worth spreading.]

    [TED:值得傳播的點子]

  • Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time.

    衝浪就是同時瞬間加速與滑行。

  • Like walking on water, like flying.

    像在水上走路,又像飛行。

  • I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.

    我覺得衝浪就是與大自然的現象合而為一。

  • [Small thing, big idea.]

    [小東西,大點子。]

  • [Made possible with the support of FutureLight and The North Face.]

    [由 FutureLight 與 The North Face 贊助播出。]

  • The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.

    衝浪板需要很多符合人體工學的設計構想。

  • How do I stand on it?

    我該怎麼站上去?

  • How do I not slip off?

    我要怎麼站才不會滑掉?

  • But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment.

    但同時,它得在流動的環境中發揮功效。

  • It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others.

    它的細節是為衝浪者而設計的,而其他設計細節則考量水流與物理因素。

  • A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam, which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.

    衝浪板的主要材料通常是讓板子有浮力的泡棉,而表皮由某種樹脂、環氧樹脂或玻璃纖維組成。

  • There often is also a stringer, a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger.

    中間通常會有龍骨,一根在中間的木頭,讓整體結構更穩固。

  • The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.

    板弧是在板頭彎曲的弧度。

  • That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is.

    這個結構很重要,因為它決定了板子適合的浪型,能承受多陡的浪。

  • The tail affects performance.

    板尾決定表現。

  • Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference.

    不同的板尾在浪上的表現不同,所以這取決於個人偏好。

  • Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.

    我們對衝浪的理解源於大溪地人在西元 1200 年將其引入夏威夷。

  • So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked.

    所以當 James Cook 在大約 1780 年來到夏威夷時,他被水中數以百計裸體衝浪的小孩、女人或男人給迷住了。

  • Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it.

    加爾文主義的傳教士到達此地之後對此相當震驚。

  • It becomes an illegal activity.

    衝浪因此成為非法的活動。

  • It becomes counterculture.

    它成為一種反主流文化。

  • The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.

    現代衝浪之父是一位叫做 Duke Kahanamoku 的夏威夷人。

  • He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912.

    他是一位傑出的游泳選手,曾在 1912 年的奧運獲得金牌。

  • Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.

    他周遊世界展示自己的泳技之餘也帶著衝浪板,並演示衝浪。

  • Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.

    試想,人們從來沒有看過衝浪活動。

  • Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.

    突然,你看到一個遠方來的人站在水面上並乘著浪。

  • He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards.

    他回到夏威夷,然後他們開始打造更多的衝浪板。

  • Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards.

    二次大戰以前,衝浪板仍是又大又重的木板。

  • Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.

    二次大戰之後,出現了新的材料和技術,而這讓板身更輕、更好上手也更便宜,但它仍是一種客製化的物品,為某人或某個地點所製。

  • It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper.

    衝浪人與塑型者擁有共生的關係。

  • There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.

    有太多不同的標準會影響衝浪板在水中運動的物理特性。

  • A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.

    長板通常用來衝小一點的浪。

  • The riding has a lot of style.

    衝浪也有很多不同風格。

  • You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.

    你可以走板、把腳趾掛在板頭、做個hang ten (雙腳緊貼衝浪板)。

  • A shortboard will be faster.

    短版比較有速度感。

  • They're harder to ride, they sink under the body.

    它們比較難駕馭,板身也會沉在水裡。

  • Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors, and really, how I want to put myself in the water.

    衝浪板的設計是在各種物理因素與個人在水中的習慣的交集。

  • It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.

    它是一種表現方式,也可以是一種物理運動。

  • The draw may be because water is so elusive.

    吸引人的地方或許是水難以捉摸的特性。

  • You can't fight it, you can't change it.

    你無法反抗它也無法改變它。

  • The best I can do is recognize what it does.

    我能做的就是去理解水性。

  • The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water.

    當你在水中時,浪可能本身就很大,後來變更大或突然湧現。

  • The elements are changing.

    一切元素都持續在改變。

  • The wind is coming up.

    起風了。

  • You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.

    你必須與環境共生。

  • You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you.

    你必須觀察和感受身邊發生的一切。

  • And yet, it's so short.

    然後,時間很短暫。

  • 5, 8, 15 seconds.

    5、8、15 秒。

  • It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.

    一切轉瞬即逝,但你還是忍不住回到水裡。

[TED: ideas worth spreading.]

[TED:值得傳播的點子]

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B1 中級 中文 美國腔 TED 衝浪板 物理 夏威夷 板身 設計

【TED】我們是大海的子民!聽聽浪客們如何透過衝浪板締結與海洋的羈絆! (How surfboards connect us to nature | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series)

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    Seraya 發佈於 2020 年 05 月 04 日
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