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  • For me they're meant to be thrown around, worn everywhere.

  • It's something that you should be wearing.

  • You should live in it.

  • And it should tell that story of your life.

  • It's like this personal journal of experience.

  • I'm Savannah Yarborough and we are

  • at the Atelier Savas studio.

  • One of the first pieces that I designed

  • when I was working for a bigger company

  • was a leather jacket.

  • It was really like flat and wasn't interesting at all.

  • I took the sample home.

  • I put it in my bathtub and I wore it while it dried.

  • It molded to me.

  • It was different from putting on anything else

  • that I'd ever had.

  • I met people in the factories that were actually making

  • these jackets and I learned a lot from those people.

  • So whether it's a $200 leather jacket

  • or a $10,000 leather jacket, it's gonna last forever.

  • It's gonna change every time they wear it.

  • It it rains, you're gonna be okay

  • and your leather jacket's gonna look

  • five times better when it dries.

  • The first phase of making one of our leather jackets is

  • meeting with the client, select the leather that they want,

  • any embroidery or specific details that they might also

  • wanna add, and we actually draw out the jacket for them.

  • After that, we take 32 points of measurement.

  • With the word bespoke, the person who's

  • taking your measurements is also the person

  • that's with your piece the whole way through.

  • I'm making the jacket that you will be wearing.

  • Physically, myself, I can only make four jackets a month.

  • The second phase, is to create the paper pattern

  • based on the measurements.

  • These two dimensional pieces that will

  • then be put together to create the actual 3D jacket.

  • The armhole and the shoulder, that's the most complicated

  • place to fit and I've developed a really great pattern

  • to be able to adapt it for each person.

  • It's a really really beautiful armhole.

  • As a designer, that's the first thing you

  • look at when you look at a jacket or a coat.

  • Like how beautiful does that sleeve hang.

  • We make a fabric version which is basically a mock up

  • of what their leather jacket will be.

  • There's always some sort of tweaks that have

  • to be done before we actually cut.

  • Once the needle goes through the leather,

  • you can't take back that hole.

  • There's always gonna be a hole where the needle was.

  • When I sell a leather, when they pick their skin,

  • that leather is no longer gonna be available

  • to any other client.

  • Oh, I saw my friend Joe and he was in this really cool

  • red leather jacket, I want that jacket.

  • I want that leather.

  • I won't sell it to you.

  • We will find you another red leather

  • and you will have your own one-of-a-kind piece.

  • The jacket that I'm wearing is this really

  • buttery soft calfskin.

  • There's silk lining in it.

  • A western yoke detail here.

  • Silver zippers.

  • When people feel it, they're like,

  • "Oh my gosh, what is that?"

  • The third step involves cutting.

  • We lay out all of the skins.

  • We examine each skin for any nicks or holes,

  • any scratches that we may not want on the jacket.

  • Some leathers are more distressed already

  • and they show natural grain from the animal

  • and so you want that in the jacket.

  • How are all 50 of these pattern pieces gonna actually

  • fit into these hides that are all different sizes.

  • Each one was a different animal.

  • The embroidery, it's a lot of fun and it's something

  • that we offer most specifically on the linings

  • of everyone's jackets and give people an opportunity

  • to have this like very personal interior detail

  • and it can be anything; their nickname or an illustration.

  • It's this private detail that no one knows about

  • because it's on the inside of their jacket.

  • The fourth step in the process of making a jacket,

  • you have to do things like stabilize certain areas

  • like the waistbands, the cuffs, and the collars,

  • scything the leather if it's too thick;

  • basically cuts the thickness of the leather in half.

  • It gets rid of the bulk so that when you have seams

  • to fold over, it doesn't add really any extra

  • to that which allows the seams to actually lay flatter.

  • It's really just a matter of like getting all

  • of the pieces ready to be sewn.

  • The fifth phase is where we actually sit down

  • and sew the pieces together.

  • It's not necessarily, okay we're gonna sit down

  • at the sewing machine and it's all gonna be done.

  • You sew one seam and then you have to iron it flat

  • and roll it out and glue the seam so

  • that everything stays really flush and flat.

  • We just moved into our studio downtown Nashville.

  • It's in a neighborhood called Pie Town

  • which is in a very up and coming area.

  • I've been here for three and a half years.

  • I've lived in London for five years

  • which is where I studied.

  • I've lived in San Francisco.

  • I grew up in Alabama.

  • There's a spirit about Nashville

  • that it's just really great.

  • Within the few years that I was here,

  • I felt this growth happen and it's still happening.

  • There's no second thought in my head

  • of anything else I would rather be doing.

  • There is a leather jacket for everyone.

  • That's why I'm here; is to basically help create these

  • pieces that even if it's someone who has never

  • been able to envision themselves in a leather jacket,

  • like we can make that jacket.

  • The most important part of identifying one

  • of my jackets is the visible logo

  • which is stamped in 22 carat gold on each jacket.

  • The second is the fit, especially when viewed from the side.

  • I create this very specific curve on every jacket that I do.

  • Slightly higher in the back

  • and it drops really beautifully down to the front.

  • And then, we deliver the jacket.

  • Leather jackets always look their best 10 years

  • after you've had them.

  • The most beautiful thing to me on a leather jacket

  • when I see someone wearing one, is the creases in the arm

  • because the elbow like stretches out, but you can really

  • just see like now that, you know, I've been wearing this

  • one, it's always got this really beautiful crease going on.

  • Every experience that you have in that jacket,

  • something evolves in that material.

  • It's like modern day armor 'cause it gives you this

  • like confidence that you really don't get

  • from any other piece of clothing.

  • You put on your leather jacket and you feel

  • like you can walk out the door and take on the world.

For me they're meant to be thrown around, worn everywhere.

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一件五千元的奢華皮衣是如何製造出來的? (How a $5k Luxury Leather Jacket is Made)

  • 14 1
    林宜悉 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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