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  • - It's an ode to the way that things used to be made.

  • It's not just something that's been mass produced

  • or put through a line and made millions of.

  • We make them hand-by-hand, individually, each one.

  • There's definitely faster ways.

  • There's ways to cut corners.

  • But how do we make something without cutting any corners?

  • What's the best way we can do it?

  • It's a long way to do it.

  • It's a hard way to do it.

  • But if there's a way to do it that way,

  • then we figure it out.

  • You can really see that in the quality

  • of the bags when you get one.

  • When you hold one.

  • My name is Lindy McDonough,

  • and I am the Creative Director at Lotuff Leather.

  • For us, we grew up in New England,

  • and I would get a bag one season.

  • It would have a big logo on it.

  • And then two seasons later,

  • you'd almost be embarrassed to have it.

  • And that's not in New England

  • how we grow up, how we have goods.

  • You should have a thing that you

  • can pass down to your next generation

  • that's gonna get more beautiful as you use it.

  • And that was always the ethos for the company.

  • The Triumph briefcase,

  • from the outside, it looks very clean.

  • But it's actually a very complicated bag.

  • It's one of the most difficult bags that we make.

  • Takes about four to six weeks to make each one.

  • There's no rushing that.

  • And the bag has about 61 individual pieces in each bag.

  • We start on the cutting table.

  • We roll out a hide.

  • Our hides all come from a family-owned tannery.

  • Our leather is all made specially for us.

  • All of the leather is fully vegetable tanned,

  • so no chromium, no formaldehyde, nothing in the base.

  • If you've ever had a piece of leather goods

  • that over time starts to peel

  • and there's white that's showing through,

  • that means that there's actually some sort of chemical

  • or chromium inside the leather that's causing it to rust.

  • Our leather won't do that.

  • It'll get more beautiful and patina as you use it.

  • You're also looking for imperfections in the hide.

  • So tick bites, scars, open cuts, anything like that,

  • just making sure at the beginning process that you find it.

  • Make sure we don't use it.

  • The bags then go through,

  • and all 61 of those pieces are cut from one hide.

  • You're actually getting someone who laid out that cut

  • and then thought about what was

  • the piece that's going next to it

  • and then thought about the piece

  • that was going next to that.

  • They all get cut and individually numbered.

  • And then we'll bring them over to the splitter.

  • Splitting is taking the leather and making it thinner.

  • We have different weights for every part of the bag.

  • From the design process too,

  • it's one of those things that we spend

  • a lot of time thinking about,

  • like could this be a little bit thinner?

  • Could this be thicker?

  • We measure every single piece,

  • and we measure it to actually the 10th of an ounce.

  • We really do pay a lot of attention

  • to the weight of every piece.

  • Once everything is split, it goes to the grinding station.

  • The grinding station is where all of the pieces are shaped.

  • We take all of the pieces,

  • and we sand them straight.

  • All of those pieces are shaped and ground

  • and done by eye.

  • It's one of those things of

  • why what we do can't be automated.

  • From the grinding station it moves to the painting station.

  • We have about four people painting

  • to every one person at every other station.

  • Because we do fully traditional,

  • burnished and polished edges,

  • the painters get the ground pieces.

  • They paint a layer,

  • and they essentially raise the grain of the leather

  • and then they bring it over to the buffing machine

  • and then buff it.

  • And then they bring it back to the painting station

  • and then they paint another coat of edge dye

  • and then they would buff it again.

  • And you're going back and forth

  • with all 61 of those pieces at the minimum of three times,

  • and some of which, eight.

  • That's why we hire artists.

  • They have an eye for it,

  • and they're like, this is not right yet.

  • And they will finish it until it's right.

  • So when we started this space, this manufacturing space,

  • five years ago, we had three people,

  • and now we are at 22.

  • It's pretty rad.

  • Our team at Lotuff is 75% women.

  • 75% of them are under the age of 35,

  • and about 70% of them have a Bachelor's degree.

  • Always the biggest struggle has been

  • how do you find work that you know you have a day job

  • from nine to five that can support your life as an artist?

  • And that was always the vision behind what we do for Lotuff.

  • We have furniture makers, jewelry designers,

  • print makers, illustrators, painters.

  • And so making a great job they could come in,

  • work with us 30 hours a week, get full benefits.

  • Health care, all of those benefits,

  • and then getting to do their studio practice

  • outside of it is a really amazing thing

  • and we get amazing work because of that.

  • And I think it's what makes

  • what goes into the bag so special.

  • In-between the painting phase and the stitching phase,

  • there's one piece in every bag that gets the bag number

  • and the Lotuff logo.

  • And so those pieces come to the monogramming station.

  • We log all of the numbers in our records.

  • We know what pieces were going through.

  • What color it was, what style it was,

  • and what number is correlated to that.

  • Then things go to stitching.

  • So all 61 of those pieces for

  • the Triumph will get brought over

  • and get the first level of stitching.

  • We use a super strong thread that's made by a local maker.

  • We get all the thread dyed to match

  • each one of the leather colors.

  • For the most part, every single one of

  • the pieces has a specific amount of stitches

  • that's their stitch width from the edge is really specific.

  • The amount of stitches per inch is really specific.

  • All of that is considered,

  • and then they moved to the turn and burn station,

  • which is our hand-stitching station.

  • So they finish the thread with a hand-tied knot, burn it,

  • and then tuck it back into the same hole where it came from

  • so it will actually hold and then close the leather over it.

  • So it's locking, essentially,

  • that stitch inside of the leather.

  • The hand stitching element is something

  • that makes our bags pretty special.

  • After it's turned and burned,

  • we'll go back to painting and buffing.

  • And then it would all go to assembly.

  • Assembly station is where they are gluing

  • and assembling the bags from

  • the two-dimensional pieces into the three-dimensional.

  • And there's different levels of that.

  • They will take all of the gussets

  • and all of the partitions, glue them,

  • and then they hammer it.

  • There's kind of a lot of back and forth

  • between those stations until it's done.

  • It goes back to grinding,

  • and then back to painting,

  • and then does the full loop all the way again,

  • and it does that about five times

  • before the bag is finished.

  • The very last thing that we do is monogramming the bags.

  • And then we hand-write a note,

  • and then there's a card that goes in

  • every bag that has the bag number.

  • It's put in a beautiful gift box.

  • That's the last step before the bag is shipped out.

  • It's important that everything is made here.

  • It's about accountability.

  • It's accountability to our customers.

  • It's making sure that we are doing things

  • the way that we say that we're doing it

  • and watching every step of the way.

  • And we really couldn't do that if we weren't making it here

  • and making it ourselves,

  • and we can really say that we look at every single piece

  • and make sure that it's perfect before it goes out the door.

  • We're not just a marketing company,

  • but we're actually, we're a maker company.

- It's an ode to the way that things used to be made.

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將手工製作帶回美國 (Bringing Handmade Back to America)

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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