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  • You can tell a lot about a person based on their shoes.


  • And today, there's a ton of options.


  • In 2018, footwear was a $250 billion industry.

    在 2018 年,鞋業產值約 2,500 億美金 (約 76 兆台幣)。

  • With over 24 million shoes produced globally.

    該年全球製造了超過 2,400 萬雙鞋子。

  • Just look at Kanye.

    看看 Kanye 就知道了。

  • His shoe and apparel line is valued at $1 billion dollars.

    他的鞋子與服裝產線價值十億美金 (約 30 億台幣)。

  • The problem is, lots of shoes, especially sneakers, aren't made to last.


  • They're made of plastic, and we can't recycle them.


  • So a lot of them end up as trash.


  • So, the question: can sneakers become sustainable?


  • The average American, in 2018, bought seven pairs of shoes.

    2018 年,一個美國人平均買了七雙鞋子。

  • But let's focus on the sneaker, which wasn't always so popular.


  • Here's where it started.


  • It's the late 1870s.

    是從 1870 年代末開始的。

  • Lawn tennis becomes popular, which allows men and women to compete against each other.


  • Or tennis and chill.


  • That game also created a new must-have item, these.


  • Sports became really popular.


  • Basketball, Babe Ruth, Jack Dempsey, golf.


  • And by 1919, almost 20 million pairs of tennis shoes were being produced in the US.

    到了 1919 年,美國約製造了 2,000 萬雙網球鞋。

  • Brands like Keds, Converse, and PF Flyers launched the very beginning of the sneaker market.

    像 Keds、Converse 與 PF Flyer 的品牌,也在這時開啟了運動鞋的市場。

  • This is Pensole Footwear Design Academy.

    這裡是 Pensole 波鞋設計學院。

  • And this is D'Wayne Edwards, its founder.

    而這是創辦人 D'Wayne Edwards。

  • Shoes are very complicated.


  • Also, one of the first black footwear designers.


  • His resume includes LA Gear, Sketchers, Nike, and Jordan.

    他為 LA Gear、Sketchers、Nike 與 Jordan 設計過鞋款。

  • So, plastics made their way onto sneakers in a few key areas.


  • First, in the outsole for support.


  • And then in the heel counter for structure.


  • In the 1970s jogging becomes super popular.

    在 1970 年代,慢跑變得十分受歡迎。

  • Companies introduce polyurethane foam into the midsole, which makes jogging more... uh, comfortable.

    各公司引進聚氨酯 (PU) 泡綿來製作鞋子的中底。這讓慢跑變得...嗯,更舒服。

  • But they don't stop there.


  • They start to focus on the athletes.


  • The goal was, if you can make their footwear lighter, then you can make the athlete faster.


  • Molded EVA replaces polyurethane in the midsole, which... immediately cut the weight down in half almost.

    熱成型 EVA 取代了 PU 成為中底的材料,這使得... 鞋子重量幾乎直接減少一半。

  • And almost simultaneously, synthetic leather is introduced into the upper, which impacts the fit, weight, and maybe more importantly, the design.


  • My name is Nicoline van Enter.

    我是 Nicoline van Enter。

  • I am the founder and creative director of the Footwearists.

    我是 Footwearists 的創辦人與創意總監。

  • Nicoline is a footwear forecaster and shoe designer.

    Nicoline 是一名鞋子趨勢預測師與設計師。

  • Her job is to see trends before they even happen.


  • Everybody could imagine classic sneakers, for instance, that you collect from the late 80s or the early 90s.

    每個人都可以預想得到,自己從 1980 年代末或 1990 年代初開始收藏的經典運動鞋......

  • Often now, when you open the box the sole just crumbles away.


  • That's essentially what happens to the plastics, and that's also why it's difficult to have a plastic shoe, recycle it into another plastic shoe.


  • So, right now, shoes are essentially a hodgepodge of materials, which means when you want to recycle an old shoe, your options are donating it, grinding it, or throwing it away.


  • And, that's a pretty short life cycle, but the future is actually really exciting.


  • As consumers, there are more sustainable options than ever before.


  • The World Footwear 2030 Report predicts that sustainability will drive innovation in the footwear industry, and it's already happening.

    The World Footwear 組織預測 2030 年時,永續發展會是鞋類創新的能量來源。

  • Big brands are experimenting with things like bio-fabrication, like, using mushrooms to grow the materials for their shoes, and 3D printing, which significantly reduces waste during the manufacturing process.


  • One example of this is the Adidas FUTURECRAFT.LOOP:

    其中一個例子就是 Adidas 的 Futurecraft Loop。

  • Here's how it works.


  • You have a shoe of only one material.


  • You can grind that up, take it back to pellets, melt that again, and turn it back into the same TPU that the shoe was made of.

    就可以把它磨碎成顆粒,融化它、使它變回鞋子最初的 TPU 材質。

  • But, companies still don't know how many times that process can be repeated.


  • Another consideration: Can a sustainable shoe still appeal to sneaker culture?


  • Sustainability right now does not have a design language:


  • You can hold up a sustainable material and a non-sustainable material in the form of a synthetic, a textile, a leather, a plastic, a foam, and not be able to tell the difference.


  • That's a problem.


  • If you want consumers to truly embrace sustainability, you have to win the aesthetic game, and the aesthetic game is allowing sustainability to have its own natural aesthetic.


  • So, back to the question: Can sneakers become sustainable?


  • It's going to come down to how much companies are willing to invest, what consumers want, and if technology can drive the change that will give us a material that's well... better than plastic.


You can tell a lot about a person based on their shoes.


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B1 中級 中文 美國腔 鞋子 運動鞋 永續 塑膠 材料 製成

【環境教育】運動鞋穿了就丟?小心地球在哭泣! (Your Sneakers Are Part of the Plastic Problem | National Geographic)

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    Mackenzie 發佈於 2019 年 12 月 12 日