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  • -Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

  • This time, we're packin' light,

  • but there's always room for puppies, sheepdog puppies.

  • We're in the Highlands of Scotland.

  • [ Wind whistling ] Thanks for joining us.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • The Highlands are where dreams of Scotland are set.

  • The land of kilts, clans, and lonely castles,

  • the Highlands offer the quintessence of Scottish charms.

  • In this episode, we'll connect with clan heritage,

  • be awestruck by Highland beauty,

  • marvel at early British engineering,

  • join in the search for a monster,

  • time-travel back to the Iron Age,

  • watch sheepdogs do their thing --

  • -[ Whistles ] Hold 'em back! Hold 'em back!

  • -...and check out some traditional folk music.

  • ♪♪

  • The United Kingdom includes England, Wales,

  • North Ireland, and Scotland.

  • Scotland includes a third of Britain's land.

  • Its main cities are Glasgow and Edinburgh.

  • To the south is the Lowlands and to the north, the Highlands.

  • Focusing on the Highlands, we'll visit Inveraray, Oban,

  • follow the Caledonian Canal to Loch Ness, Inverness,

  • and the battlefield at Culloden.

  • Here in Scotland, the Highlands have more than half the land,

  • and only 5% of the people.

  • Still, it's these Highlands, so vast, yet so sparsely populated,

  • that give us the classic image of Scotland.

  • The highest mountains in Britain are here in Scotland,

  • in the Highlands.

  • While only around 3,000 feet in altitude,

  • they offer a dramatic welcome and a backdrop

  • of constantly changing views for road trippers.

  • Long lakes, called "lochs" here, cut like fjords into a land

  • where the heritage remains strong.

  • -In this region, so much seems proudly Scottish.

  • Clans gather to celebrate traditional sports,

  • girls grow up dreaming to dance like their mothers did,

  • whisky is savored with reverence for the culture --

  • ♪♪

  • ...and pipers still stir the Scottish soul.

  • And, in this land so steeped in culture,

  • Scotland's beloved hairy coo feels perfectly at home.

  • These shaggy Highland cattle

  • have evolved to fit the environment.

  • Their adorable bangs protect their eyes

  • from both insects and the persistent wind.

  • Historically, Highland society was centered

  • around the clan system.

  • In medieval times, long before being tamed

  • by any central government,

  • the Highlands were inhabited by a collection of proud,

  • and often bickering, tribes, or clans,

  • each with its own chief and deep-seated traditions.

  • ♪♪

  • Castles dotting the landscape evoke this strong clan heritage.

  • Scottish people, whether in Scotland;

  • or abroad, as part of the Scottish diaspora;

  • still relate to their historic clan

  • and many venerate a particular castle

  • as their historic capital and almost spiritual center.

  • Inveraray Castle, the residence of the 13th Duke of Argyle,

  • has a stately turreted exterior set in a delightful garden.

  • ♪♪

  • Historically, a stronghold of the Campbell clan,

  • its walls are well-hung with portraits

  • of the many dukes who've called this palace home.

  • Here's the first duke,

  • with dukes number two and three on deck.

  • As with many such castles, the aristocratic family

  • still lives here, like clan royals.

  • Displays are like a family scrapbook,

  • showing the current duke and his family,

  • who still occupy the private half of this palace.

  • ♪♪

  • The public half is a museum,

  • filled with precious, if you're a Campbell, artifacts.

  • ♪♪

  • This case features pendants

  • of esteemed family members through the ages.

  • This one's filled with dirks and daggers,

  • set against a nice Campbell tartan.

  • A highlight is the Armory Hall, which fills the main atrium.

  • Here, swords and rifles

  • are artistically arrayed in starburst patterns.

  • Docents are standing by and happy to answer questions.

  • -So, our halberds here date from the 1600s.

  • They come from the earlier castle, before this one.

  • -Now, what is a halberd?

  • -So, a halberd could be used against charging cavalry

  • and you'll notice they've got tassels on them.

  • It's not just for decoration.

  • Don't know about you. If I'm killing someone,

  • you don't want their blood dripping down your weapon,

  • making it all slippy.

  • -So, the tassels actually had a function.

  • -That's right. So, the tassels would soak up the blood.

  • -And these muskets?

  • -So, this is our Brown Bess flintlock muskets,

  • all dating from the 1740s.

  • These are all original

  • and they were last used at the Battle of Culloden, 1746,

  • the last battle fought on British soil.

  • Yes, so, we have, in this cabinet,

  • some of the belongings of Rob Roy MacGregor,

  • a kind of famous folk hero.

  • -The famous Rob Roy?

  • -That's right, Rob Roy MacGregor.

  • So, this is his sporran here.

  • -And what is a sporran?

  • -So, a sporran, if you think of a kilt,

  • there's no pockets in a kilt.

  • -Right. -So, you'd have your sporran

  • and, in your sporran, you'd have maybe a wee bag of oatmeal.

  • -So, this is your bag of essentials,

  • -Exactly. Yes, for sure, yeah. -hanging right here in front.

  • Yeah. -Yeah.

  • -You'll find castles like this all over the Highlands.

  • Today, countless Scottish Americans

  • make a pilgrimage of sorts to their ancestral clan capital.

  • If you're a Campbell, you'd come here, to Inveraray.

  • The main town of the west coast of the Highlands is Oban.

  • ♪♪

  • With the arrival of the train in 1880,

  • Oban became the unofficial capital of this region

  • and a destination for tourists.

  • Today, Oban's harborfront seems eager

  • to please its many visitors.

  • Victorian facades recall those early days of tourism.

  • Before then, its economy was dominated by whiskey --

  • its venerable distillery has been busy since 1794 --

  • and by fishing.

  • Even today, a tiny fleet stays busy.

  • When the rain clears,

  • sun-starved Scots enjoy their esplanade

  • and the beach brings joy to young families.

  • [ Birds squawking ] ♪♪

  • The town's port has long been a lifeline

  • to Scotland's Hebrides Islands,

  • earning Oban the nickname "The Gateway to the Isles."

  • But we'll save the islands for another episode.

  • We're driving north, deeper into the Highlands.

  • Of course, here in Britain,

  • you drive on the left-hand side of the road.

  • You get used to it.

  • The roads are good, the traffic's light,

  • and the scenery is gorgeous.

  • The stunning valley called Glencoe offers the essence

  • of the wild and stark beauty of the Highlands.

  • While the valley is massive in scale,

  • at its entrance is a tiny and practical home base.

  • Glencoe Village is basically a one-street town

  • gathered around its church.

  • There's the humble folk museum,

  • plenty of B&Bs...

  • We're staying with Jackie and Iain.

  • Bye-bye.

  • ...and a memorial to a terrible tragedy,

  • a tragedy that, while three centuries old, still resonates.

  • [ Melancholy tune plays ]

  • To be sure we get the story right,

  • we're joined by my friend and fellow tour guide

  • Colin Mairs.

  • This is a beautiful valley.

  • -Yeah, well, it does have a sad story, though.

  • In 1692, there was a massacre here

  • and government troops -- Redcoats,

  • made up mostly of Campbells -- they were sent here by the king.

  • They were given the orders to ride

  • to the homes of the MacDonalds of Glencoe

  • and to await further instruction.

  • So, they enjoyed the hospitality,

  • the Highland hospitality, of the MacDonalds of Glencoe

  • and, after 12 days,

  • the further instruction arrived

  • for the Campbells to massacre the MacDonalds of Glencoe.

  • As the MacDonalds slept in their beds,

  • the Campbells carried out the order.

  • We know that 38 MacDonalds were killed as they slept.

  • Others fled for the hills.

  • This was midwinter, in the Highlands of Scotland,

  • and many others perished and died in the cold.

  • Ever since then, this has been known as the Weeping Glen.

  • ♪♪

  • -It's fitting that such an epic, dramatic incident

  • should be set in this equally epic and dramatic valley,

  • where the cliffsides still seem to weep.

  • [ Wind whistling ] ♪♪

  • Glencoe valley leads up into the vast Rannoch Moor.

  • This moor, the biggest expanse of uninhabited land in Britain,

  • is hundreds of desolate square miles,

  • much enjoyed by hikers and lovers of nature.

  • [ Wind whistling ] ♪♪

  • [ Triumphant music sweeps ]

  • When filmmakers want a stunning, rugged backdrop;

  • when hikers want a scenic challenge...

  • ♪♪

  • ...and when Scots want to remember their hard-fought past,

  • they all think of Glencoe.

  • ♪♪

  • [ Mid-tempo tune plays ] As we drive north from Glencoe,

  • we find a massive fault line slashing about 60 miles

  • across the Highlands, nearly cutting Scotland in two.

  • The drive from here, northeast to Inverness

  • follows three long, skinny lakes,

  • created by the great Glen Fault,

  • and a series of 19th-century canals that laced them together.

  • This is the Caledonian Canal.

  • ♪♪

  • Perhaps the most idyllic stop along the canal

  • is the little town of Fort Augustus,

  • built around an impressive staircase of locks.

  • Today, this historic piece of British engineering

  • is a welcoming park.

  • [ Birds chirping ] ♪♪

  • 200 years ago, as Britain was at full steam

  • during the Industrial Age, it connected these lakes

  • with about 20 miles of canals and locks.

  • That was so its ships could avoid the long journey

  • around the north of the country.

  • The Caledonian Canal took 19 years

  • and cost a fortune to construct.

  • It opened in 1822.

  • [ Upbeat tune plays ]

  • While these locks were an engineering marvel

  • in their day, they were quickly antiquated

  • and a disaster, commercially.

  • Shortly after the canal opened, ships were built too big to fit

  • and, shortly after that, with the advent of steam trains,

  • the Caledonian Canal became almost useless,

  • except for Romantic Age tourism,

  • and, today, the canal remains a hit with holiday-goers.

  • The most famous part of the Caledonian Canal route

  • is the long and skinny Loch Ness.

  • 22 miles long and over 700 feet deep,

  • it's essentially the vast chasm of that fault line,

  • filled with water.

  • They say Loch Ness contains more water

  • than all the lakes of England and Wales, combined.

  • Loch Ness is deepest near Urquhart Castle.

  • While thoroughly ruined and little more

  • than an empty shell to climb through,

  • in its medieval heyday, this strategically situated castle

  • was one of the most important in the Highlands,

  • controlling traffic along the great glen.

  • Today, so gloriously situated,

  • with a view of virtually the entire lake,

  • it's extremely popular with tourists

  • and the perfect place to look for the Loch Ness monster.

  • ♪♪

  • While the lake is, frankly, boring,

  • the local tourist industry thrives

  • on the legend of the Loch Ness monster.

  • It is a thrilling thought, and there have been

  • several seemingly reliable sightings.

  • And, of course, there's a touristy exhibit

  • that would love to tell the story.

  • The Loch Ness Exhibition is spearheaded

  • by scientist and naturalist Adrian Shine,

  • who's spent decades studying the Nessie phenomenon.

  • ♪♪

  • Adrian, can you tell me the mission of this exhibition?

  • -Our mission is to be part of the essential sense of place.

  • We are not a monster show, but we will tell you a lot,

  • whether you like it or not, about Scottish lochs,

  • by arguing about the Loch Ness monster.

  • But we do it in a fairly entertaining way,

  • I like to think, because we're talking about the one thing

  • we would all like to have in Loch Ness.

  • What we do is take you through the history of the search

  • for an unusual animal in Loch Ness.

  • In the '60s, it was surface surveillance,

  • with big, telephoto-lens cameras.

  • Having failed,

  • in the '70s, we went underwater,

  • partly in my own little, photographic hide, Machan.

  • Having failed to encounter a beast,

  • we resorted to sonar in the 1980s --

  • sort of underwater radar.

  • We built a flatpack sonar search vessel on a beach in 1981,

  • patrolled up and down the loch.

  • The contacts led, in the end,

  • to Operation Deep Scan in 1987, with the fleet.

  • In the '90s, we got a bit canny.

  • We used an indirect method and we have been, ever since,

  • and it's general science.

  • What could the loch support, in terms of food resources?

  • What do the temperatures tell us about

  • what could live in Loch Ness?

  • And, finally, we have the environmental message,

  • in terms of the record within the Loch Ness sediments.

  • I would like our visitors to go away thinking

  • about what could live in Loch Ness,

  • when we have explained Loch Ness.

  • Go and see Loch Ness,

  • but, if you want to understand it, come here.

  • And, at the same time, and above everything,

  • we want them to go away knowing a lot more about Scottish lochs.

  • [ Tranquil tune plays ]

  • -Just beyond Loch Ness, I feel the real spirit of Scotland

  • most deeply at Culloden, the site of the last

  • major land battle fought on British soil.

  • ♪♪

  • About 300 years ago,

  • Scotland was embroiled in a bloody civil war with England.

  • Well, it's a complicated story.

  • Basically, the Scots were fighting for their culture:

  • to put a Catholic king on the throne

  • and to keep their ancient clan traditions.

  • The last leader of this cause

  • was Prince Charles Edward Stuart,

  • fondly known as "Bonnie Prince Charlie."

  • His forces were called the "Jacobites,"

  • named for his grandfather, the deposed King James.

  • James was Catholic and his name was "Jacobus" in Latin,

  • and that's why the rebels were called "Jacobites."

  • For a long time, Bonnie Prince Charlie

  • confounded the English and their Protestant monarch.

  • Slipping from valley to valley,

  • hiding behind clever disguises and in sympathetic farmhouses,

  • Charlie kept the Scottish dreams of his Jacobite followers alive.

  • Those dreams ended here,

  • at the decisive Battle of Culloden in 1746.

  • The on-site museum tells the story vividly.

  • ♪♪

  • Docents demonstrate battle techniques

  • to give visitors context,

  • and a small theater captivates its audience

  • with a dramatic re-enactment.

  • -[Shouting] [ Blast ]

  • -This Scottish clans gathered every possible warrior,

  • but they were outnumbered and outgunned

  • [ Suspenseful music plays ] by the British redcoats.

  • While the clans fought fiercely,

  • the British were cool, methodical, and ruthless.

  • -[Shouting]

  • [ Gunfire ]

  • -Ooh!

  • -The hour-long battle was a catastrophe

  • for the Highlanders

  • as the British army finally, and thoroughly,

  • defeated the Jacobites.

  • Survivors broke ranks and ran for the hills.

  • [ Suspenseful music climbs ]

  • -[Distant shouting]

  • -After the battle, the British army hunted down

  • and killed clan chiefs and sympathizers.

  • They banned kilts, tartans, bagpipes,

  • and even the local language.

  • Scottish Highland culture would never fully recover.

  • [ Melancholy tune plays ]

  • On the battlefield, flags mark where the two armies lined up.

  • This is where the hand-to-hand fighting took place.

  • As visitors wander the battlefield,

  • they pass mass graves and ponder how entire clans fought, died,

  • and were buried here, at this Scottish Alamo.

  • ♪♪

  • For many, this is an emotional visit.

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • [ Birds chirping ] [ Outro plays ]

  • Nearby, the town of Inverness straddles the River Ness,

  • near the eastern end of the Caledonian Canal.

  • [ Tranquil tune plays ] This town's charm lies

  • in its normalcy.

  • Inverness is a simple, mid-sized Scottish city

  • that gives you a taste of the urban Highlands.

  • It has a disheveled, ruddy-cheeked grittiness

  • and is well-located for enjoying nearby sights.

  • Check out the bustling, pedestrianized downtown

  • and stroll the riverside.

  • [ Outro plays ]

  • Inverness is a great place for music in the pubs.

  • Tonight, MacGregor's is hosting a session.

  • Not a formal concert, but just an open table

  • for local musicians to get together and jam.

  • While this is a modern pub, it embraces

  • traditional Scottish music, which is clearly alive and well.

  • [ Playing rollicking tune ]

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • Music brings the people of the Highlands together, even today.

  • ♪♪

  • [ Knocking ] ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • It's an inviting conviviality.

  • Everyone seems eager to get to know each other

  • and visitors feel welcome.

  • You enjoy amazing music for the cost of a beer

  • and the beer is great.

  • -Yah! ♪♪

  • ♪♪

  • [ Playing outro ]

  • [ Cheers and applause ]

  • [ Flute plays tranquil tune ] -We're driving south,

  • to learn how some of the original Highlanders lived.

  • Across Scotland, little round islands on lakes

  • are the remains of prehistoric fortified homes.

  • These are called crannogs

  • and date back centuries before Christ.

  • Here at the Crannog Centre on Loch Tay,

  • one's been rebuilt, using mostly traditional methods,

  • and now welcomes visitors.

  • -This is the Scottish Crannog Centre.

  • It's a reproduction of a 2,500-year-old crannog

  • that archaeologists are excavating,

  • as we speak, in Loch Tay, right now.

  • It was built out in the loch itself for defensive purposes.

  • In Scotland then, you had bears, you had wolves,

  • you had big cats called lynx,

  • other people roaming the countryside.

  • And if you're out here in the water,

  • there's only one way in and out, and that's the walkway.

  • So, if you can keep that secure, you, yourself, in here,

  • are going to feel a lot safer.

  • -Guides demonstrate Iron Age technology:

  • turning a lathe...

  • ♪♪

  • ...grinding flour...

  • -Stones against each other.

  • -...and even starting a fire the really old-fashioned way.

  • ♪♪

  • Whoa. -That's how you make a fire.

  • -[Clapping]

  • You can give the tools a try yourself

  • and discover how easy the guides make it look.

  • Scotland is littered with reminders

  • of prehistoric people from an even earlier age.

  • At Clava Cairns, three Bronze Age burial chambers date

  • [ Strings play tranquil tune ] from about 4,000 years ago.

  • Each was once buried under turf-covered mounds

  • and surrounded by a stone circle.

  • The central "ring cairn" has an open space in its middle.

  • The two passage cairns each have an entrance shaft that,

  • on the winter solstice, lines up with the setting sun.

  • ♪♪

  • [ Birds chirping ] ♪♪

  • Visitors are caught up in the peaceful wonder

  • of this ancient and sacred site.

  • Enjoy the mystery of this place.

  • Were these stone circles part of a celestial calendar?

  • Was the soul of the deceased transported into the next life

  • when the sun was just right?

  • Nobody really knows.

  • -[Whistling]

  • -But everyone knows sheepdogs are fun.

  • A favorite experience when touring Scotland

  • is to visit a working sheep farm

  • and meet the farmer and his dogs.

  • Each afternoon, Neal Ross takes a break from farming

  • to show off his well-trained sheepdogs

  • and his son, Tristan, is learning from the master.

  • -The main purpose of the dog is go down the field,

  • get the sheep, and bring them back.

  • The voice commands, I'll explain

  • the voice commands to you.

  • This command means "stop that dog."

  • [ Long whistle ]

  • Stop command.

  • The dogs' hearing is like electric.

  • The command "away to me" means "right."

  • Wee Mark, wee Mark, wee Mark.

  • "Stop" is "lie down." Little Mark.

  • The voice command "come-bye" is "left."

  • Bo, come-bye. [ Double-tone whistle ]

  • That whistle sound [two double-tone whistles] means "left."

  • [Single down-tone whistle] means "right."

  • [ Three single-tone whistles ]

  • [ Two double-tone whistles ]

  • -Great, another foreign language

  • I can't understand.

  • The show ends with a demonstration

  • on how to shear sheep,

  • with the kids getting a chance to help.

  • The dogs love some attention when they're on break

  • and there's always lambs to be fed.

  • [ Laughter ]

  • ♪♪

  • We connected with spectacular landscapes,

  • [ Playing rollicking tune ] shared traditional music,

  • felt the power of history,

  • and were inspired by the pride of this resilient culture.

  • ♪♪

  • I hope you've enjoyed our look at Scotland's Highlands,

  • with its rich heritage and majestic nature.

  • Thanks for joining us.

  • I'm Rick Steves.

  • Until next time, keep on travelin'.

  • ♪♪

  • -[Laughing]

  • Rob Roy's sporran? -300 years old.

  • Yeah. For sure, yeah.

  • -[Laughing delightedly]

  • -Oh, that's okay. -Yeah.

  • [ Laughter ]

  • -This is my new dog for next year.

  • [ Laughter ]

  • -I hope you've enjoyed our look at Scotland's Highlands,

  • with its rich heritage.

  • [ Laughing ]

  • Loch Ness monster?

  • I just don't buy it.

  • -[Roar]

  • ♪♪

-Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

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蘇格蘭高地 (Scotland's Highlands)

  • 195 6
    Amy.Lin 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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