and just over an hour drive from Boston.

距離波士頓則約 1 個多小時車程

Reaching 65 miles into the North Atlantic like a proud seafarer's arm,

半島長約 105 公里，向北大西洋延伸入海 宛如神氣水手的健壯手臂

life here is lived by the tides.

島上居民依潮起潮落度日

One of the world's largest barrier islands,

鱈魚角是世界上最大的離岸沙洲島之一

Cape Cod has long shielded the Massachusetts mainland

形成一道天然屏障 保護麻薩諸塞內陸

from the Atlantic's grinding swells.

免受大西洋的湧浪蝕襲

For centuries this 400 square-mile peninsula of beaches,

長久以來 面積約 1036 平方公里的鱈魚角半島

forests and ponds has been a sanctuary for its Native Peoples,

島上遍布沙灘森林和沼澤 是原住民的居住地

for Pilgrims, mariners, artists and vacationers.

教徒水手和藝術家的落腳處 也是旅客的天堂

While many come for the beaches,

雖然眾多旅客慕海灘之名而來

this is far more than just another seaside summer escape.

鱈魚角卻並非只是 普通的濱海避暑勝地

Once you've inhaled the salty spirit of this place,

鱈魚角與海共生的堅毅精神令人著迷

you'll understand why locals say,

無怪乎當地居民總說

“once a Cape Codder, always a Cape Codder.”

「一日鱈魚角人，終生鱈魚角人」

And you don't need to travel far to catch that spirit.

您無需走遍整座半島，也能領會鱈魚角的魅力

Leave the mainland behind and journey into the Upper Cape,

半島最靠近內陸的區域 稱為上鱈魚角

home to historic villages like Woods Hole.

伍茲霍爾是當地幾座老村莊之一

It's in villages like these where common-sense

老村莊的建築風格

has stood firm against the fickle winds of architectural whimsy.

以實用與合理為最高宗旨 而非一昧跟隨譁眾取寵的建築潮流

Marine scientists and restaurateurs may have replaced

隨著時代變遷，捕鯨漁業已漸式微

the whalers and fisher-folk of old,

取而代之的是海洋研究和餐飲業

but the shingle homes remain,

木瓦風格的住屋仍留存至今

and, there's not a chain store to be seen.

鎮上更是看不見半間連鎖店

Wherever you travel on the Cape,

在鱈魚角不論走到哪

the sea surrounds you, and the Upper Cape is no exception.

幾乎處處看得見海 上鱈魚角也不例外

Drop your towel on the sands of Old Silver Beach

您可以在舊銀灘上席地而坐享受日光浴

and wade into the calm waters of Buzzards Bay.

並在波平浪靜的布札德灣中盡情戲水

Or saddle up and explore the beaches of Vineyard Sound,

或者也可以整裝出發 朝東邊的葡萄園海峽繼續探索之旅

which stretch away to the east under the ever-watchful gaze of Nobska Light.

海峽沿岸沙灘連綿 岸上的諾布斯卡燈塔照亮海面

The town of Falmouth is the perfect place to take to the waters,

法爾茅斯鎮水上運輸發達 水上活動亦很盛行

whether it's for a quiet paddle,

您可以靜靜地划著小船

or the 50-minute ferry ride to Martha's Vineyard.

也可以搭 50 分鐘的渡輪到瑪莎葡萄園島觀光

While right next door is Mashpee,

往西行則是馬什皮鎮

lose yourself amid the pitch pines

境內的南角海灘州立公園

and endless dunes of South Cape Beach State Park.

有參天的剛松森林和一望無際的沙丘

Follow the currents further from the mainland, into the Mid Cape region.

上鱈魚角再往海洋的方向過去 則是中鱈魚角區

You'll find Cape Cod's rich maritime heritage all over the peninsula,

中鱈魚角區是半島上航海歷史與傳統 最豐富的區域

but nowhere more so, than in Hyannis,

其中最著名的是海恩尼斯鎮

which in the 1800s was home to over 200 ships masters.

在 1800 年代時 有超過 200 位船長住在這裡

Hyannis was also the summer retreat of one of

海恩尼斯鎮同時也是

America's most revered presidents and naval heroes, John F Kennedy.

深受美國人愛戴的海軍英雄甘迺迪總統 夏日行館的所在地

When JFK urged his countrymen and women to “set sail and not sit in the harbor”,

當年甘迺迪總統向美國人鼓吹著 「航向世界，別只是在港灣內停泊」

the Cape Cod call to adventure could be felt right across the nation.

就源自鱈魚角的航海家精神 當時在全美各地蔚為一股風潮

Experience that seafaring spirit,

另一處洋溢航海精神的景點

in the wood shavings and sawdust of the Cape Cod Maritime Museum,

是堆滿了刨花與鋸屑的 鱈魚角海事博物館

where craftsmen shape boats so beautiful,

工匠巧手打造出的豪華船艦

even landlubbers' hearts are known to skip a beat.

連對航海一知半解的人也會驚嘆不已

Ride the sea breezes further eastward to the Cape's elbow,

乘著海風繼續向東行 來到鱈魚角的手肘處

and drop anchor at Chatham.

並在查塔姆鎮駐足參訪

Head down to the pier and meet the locals

前往鎮上碼頭欣賞宜人風光

who hang out by the fishing boats hoping for a free meal.

還可以看見游到碼頭漁船邊的小動物 探頭希望能覓得食物

And follow the lead of the migratory birds who rest in this important habitat,

抬頭欣賞成群的候鳥振翅高飛 然後安然降落在這處主要棲息地

and feel your own feathers…unruffle.

心情彷彿也跟著沉澱平靜

From Chatham, wind your way north through the Outer Cape to Eastham,

從查塔姆朝北前行 經過外鱈魚角來到伊斯特姆

the gateway to the Cape Cod National Seashore.

這裡是鱈魚角國家海岸的起點

Founded in 1961 by John F Kennedy,

1961 年由甘迺迪總統下令成立

this national treasure covers almost the entire east coast of Cape Cod,

是座堪稱國寶的保護區 面積涵蓋整個鱈魚角東岸

preserving its historic landmarks

除了保存完整的古蹟

and pristine habitats for future generations to enjoy.

更留給後代子孫純淨無污染的自然環境

Gazing out upon the wild Atlantic from this 40-mile stretch of pristine seashore

站在岸邊望向洶湧的大西洋 綿延約 65 公里長的海岸線原始而純淨

is the perfect antidote for the rigors of modern life.

讓人幾乎忘了現實世界的煩憂

For this is the place, Henry Thoreau once wrote,

優美的海岸線讓作家梭羅大受感動而寫下

“that a man may stand still and put all America behind him.“

「只要靜佇此處 彷彿可以將全世界拋在腦後」

As you move further up the Cape,

繼續向北行

the simple life reveals itself around every bend

簡單純樸的生活態度隨處可見

from the cottages and shacks

路邊的小屋和棚屋

which have seen the summer crowds come and go for decades…

默默佇立在此，看著夏季前來的渡假客來來去去 數十年如一日

to the farms and gardens that keep this place so very grounded.

花木扶疏的農地和花園 以一草一木守住了這片土地的根

Our journey ends at Cape Cod's northern tip,

旅程終點是鱈魚角的最北端

where the Cape's modern story began, in Provincetown.

同時也是美國現代歷史的發源地，普羅溫斯頓

For it was here, in 1620, where the Mayflower finally dropped anchor

西元 1620 年 五月花號搭載著 102 名清教徒遠度重洋

and 102 weary Pilgrims first came ashore.

歷盡艱辛到達美國在普羅溫斯頓上岸

Visit the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum,

清教徒移民紀念碑和普羅溫斯頓博物館

and learn about life in P-Town in days gone by.

是探究 P 鎮歷史發展的好去處

Then wind your way to the top of the Pilgrim Monument,

普羅溫斯頓博物館的頂樓是全鎮最高點

which rises above this outpost that has long been a haven for

居高俯瞰 自古以來，這片邊陲地帶

adventurers, artists, and freethinkers.

收留著不願受世俗禁錮的自由靈魂

Nature is always close at hand in Provincetown.

在普羅溫斯頓，大自然的懷抱就近在呎尺

Head down to Macmillan Pier and cast off on a whale-watching cruise,

麥克米倫碼頭 是賞鯨遊輪的啟航點

or cast for bass in the waters off Herring Cove Beach.

在鯡魚灣海灘可以釣到肥美的鱸魚

Fill your water bottles and explore the Provincetown Dunes,

帶上足夠的水 前往普羅溫斯頓沙丘探索

a vast expanse of wind-swept tranquility that playwright,

劇作家尤金歐尼爾曾將這片一望無際的寧靜沙丘

Eugine O'Neill once called, “a grand place to be alone and undisturbed”.

形容成 「與世隔絕的浩瀚之地」

Cape Cod has long provided the stage for American dramas, grand and small,

鱈魚角經常出現在 大大小小的美國戲劇裡

from the weary Pilgrims who waded ashore for a better life,

從最早的清教徒 費盡千辛萬苦遠度重洋而來的故事

to the early beachcombers who soughtquiet refuge from the industrial age.

繼之則有為逃離工業污染 遠離塵囂自我放逐到海邊的題材

Today, Cape Cod continues to offer those who come

今日的鱈魚角仍然讓所有來訪的人

the gifts of connectedness and calm.

感受到歸屬感與心靈的平靜

For this is a place that reminds us that a life lived by the tides,

這座半島上 居民隨潮起潮落安然度日

is the best kind of life of all.

這何嘗不是最令人稱羨的生活方式