Name: 用愛料理：這位墨西哥大廚運用料理推廣自身文化！(How This Mexican Chef Is Changing Perceptions With Food)
Uploaded: 2019-07-07T21:01:30.000Z
Duration: 6 min 44 s

Mexican food is one of the most appropriated foods in the United States.

在美國，墨西哥食物是最常被挪用的料理之一。

Number one Mexican restaurant in the United States is what?

美國的頭號墨西哥餐廳是什麼？

For almost 18 years I've been changing perceptions of Mexican food.

近 18 年以來，我都在改變人們對墨西哥食物的認知。

People walk in, they want chips and salsa.

客人走進來，想要吃玉米片配莎莎醬。

I don't give them chips and salsa, sorry.

我沒賣玉米片配莎莎醬，抱歉。

However, you're not gonna be uncomfortable with my food; I promise you that, bud.

不過我跟你保證，我的料理絕對能讓你滿意。

There are those who wake up every morning to fight for a better world.

有些人每天都在為更好的世界而奮鬥。

他們並非名人，也不是政治家。

In Mexico you have your church in your plaza and then the mercado.

在墨西哥，廣場上會有教堂，然後就是超市。

My name's Silvana Salcido Esparza, I'm chef/owner of Barrio Café, and Barrio Café Gran Reserva.

我叫做 Silvana Salcido Esparza，我是 Barrio 咖啡廳和頂級 Barrio 咖啡廳的廚師兼所有人。

We are finishing up our 17th year and going into our 18th year.

我們已經營業了 17 年，即將邁向 18 年。

And restaurant years is like dog years-that's an eternity.

開餐廳的日子真的是度日如年，簡直像永遠過不完。

I've gotten coast to coast coverage from the media- got inducted to the Culinary Hall of Fame.

美國東西海岸的媒體都報導過我們，我們還進了烹飪名人堂。

It's one of those dishes that predates the conquest; it's a decolonized food.

是在被西班牙人征服前的料理，是去殖民化的料理。

Mexican food near normal American's perception should be combination plate for 8.99, and probably includes a $1.50 margarita.

美國人對墨西哥食物的印象一般都是一盤 8.99 美金的拼盤，或許會附一杯 1.5 元的瑪格麗特。

But Barrio Café is a trailblazing restaurant.

但是 Barrio 咖啡廳是一間具有開創性的餐廳。

We're not about the yellow cheese and Chimichanga; that's not the kind of food that I, as a chef, choose to execute.

我們不提供黃起司和恰米強克捲 (墨西哥捲餅的一種)，那並不是我身為一個廚師會選擇製作的菜色。

I grew up the only Mexican family in an all white country school.

從小整間學校都是白人，只有我是來自墨西哥家庭。

So I was a cultural attaché if you will.

所以你想的話可以叫我「文化外交專員」。

My food is influenced by the artisanal cooks, the traditional cooks of Mexico, women who have been warriors and carrying our food from generation to generation.

我的料理受手工料理廚師的影響，墨西哥的傳統廚師們，那些曾經奮戰並將我們的料理世代傳承的女人。

I use them as an influence for the food I do.

They feed it to the pigs in Iowa; they call it corn smut.

在愛荷華州這是餵給豬吃的，叫做玉米黑穗菌。

It is in (on) par with a truffle-a European truffle.

Mexican food is always an evolution and the closest you get to its source, the better it is.

墨西哥料理隨時在演變，你越接近它的源頭，得到的就越美味。

The Barrio Café is a magical place; it has a life of its own.

Barrio 咖啡廳是一個神奇的地方，有自己特別的生態。

A lot of people in the kitchen have been there since the start of the restaurant.

廚房裡很多人都是從餐廳開幕以來就在這裡了。

Representation matters. As a young woman I was looking for other Mexican chefs; I couldn't find any.

形象很重要。身為一個年輕女性，我在找其他墨西哥廚師，但找不到任何一個。

We're women owned, nine out of 10 times it's women who are cooking your food and that includes the line.

我們餐廳人員幾乎都是女性，10 裡有 9 個都是，包括準備食物的廚師和服務生。

People who are in there are in a safe place- no profanity, not vulgar, no sexual harassment.

在這裡工作的人都在一個安全的環境，不會有下流粗俗的言論，也不會有性騷擾。

I have been working for Silvana (for) 14 years.

She's a mentor for me just seeing that she's Mexican as well and a female.

她對我來說是導師，光是同樣身為一位墨西哥女性就很激勵我。

對我來說，Barrio 咖啡廳是我的家。

Little places like this are an inspiration.

這樣的一個小地方就足以激勵人心。

My kitchens have always been very diverse.

我的廚房一直是一個很多元的地方。

We are a motley crew; queer or not queer.

我們是一個大熔爐，酷兒與否。

We all embrace each other and love each other; we know each other's husbands and wives and partners and not partners.

我們接納並關愛彼此，我們認識彼此的丈夫、妻子、伴侶和其他關係人。

We're cooking for people, we're cooking with love.

我們為人們下廚，我們用愛在下廚。

And that has to be part of the ingredients: to always be in the kitchen with love.

必備材料一定是愛，要用愛下廚。

The Barrio Café has survived just about the brink of economic collapse.

Barrio 咖啡廳驚險擦過經濟崩盤。

It has survived ugly laws. State Bill 1070 was a large bill that carried many things, but in it was proof of citizenship.

也撐過了醜陋的法條。州議案第 1070 條是一個很大的議案，執行了很多件事，其中一個就是公民證。

If I was stopped I would have to show and demonstrate my proof of citizenship, automatically.

在當時如果我在路邊被攔下來，我必須主動出示我的公民證。

And if the police didn't ask me for that, then they would be fined.

而如果警察沒有要求我出示證明，他們就會被罰。

It was a very targeted bill. I thought it was racist.

這條議案很有針對性。我認為是種族歧視。

I thought it was hateful, and it would alienate a culture; and we were being picked on.

我認為它很可恨，會在一個文化中挑撥離間，我們是被針對的一群。

I've learned that you cannot fight those hateful bills with hate and retaliation.

我學到，你不能用仇恨及報復來對抗這些可憎的法條。

You have to stand up with love, and for me, it meant taking action in my own neighborhood.

你必須以愛之名起身，對我而言就是在我自己的街坊動員。

I wanted to create a destination, a source of pride for Phoenix in terms of our culture.

我想創造一個景點，作為我們鳳凰城文化驕傲的一個來源。

So I called it Calle 16, and I kept calling it Calle 16.

我叫它「16 街」，後來也延續這種叫法。

And much like the Barrio, it took up its own identity.

和 Barrio 很像的是，它有了自己的身份認同。

We started doing paint festivals, and the lowrider events and being part of everything in the community.

我們開始舉辦彩繪節，還有低底盤聚會，參與了社區的大小事。

And there's not a negative mural in this neighborhood at all; they're all positive and ascending, as they should be.

在這個社區裡你看不到負面的壁畫，全都是正向的、向上的，本意即是如此。

So now this has become a tourist destination.

所以現在這裡成了一個觀光景點。

It's busy in that alley and it's not just for my restaurant.

巷弄裡很熱鬧，不只有我的餐廳熱鬧。

The food, it has been the catalyst, the driving force, the everything that happens.

食物成了讓這一切成真的觸媒、驅動力。

Whether it's politics or community service, there's always food involved.

無論是政治活動還是社區服務，一定會牽扯到食物。

If we're doing a lowrider event, there's food involved.

我們舉辦低底盤聚會的話，也一定會有食物。

If we're getting together just to socialize, there's food involved.

如果聚在一起聊天，一定也會有食物。

As a community every time there is something that happens whether it's good or bad, we always bring our food.

社區裡一旦發生好事或是壞事，我們都一定會帶上食物。

My goal is to make every single customer change their mind with the proof.

我的目標是用我的料理改變每一位客人的印象。

'Cause when you're feeding the truth and not the fake and the lie, you're preaching the gospel of Mexican cuisine.

因為當你提供的是真的墨西哥食物，你就是在傳揚墨西哥料理的真諦。

I measure my success by how many people I can reach, how many people I can touch, how many erroneous perceptions I can change, how many haters can turn into love.

我觸及到多少人、能夠接觸到多少人、有哪些錯誤觀念是我能改變的、我能讓多少心懷怨恨的人轉向愛，這些才是我衡量成功的標準。

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用愛料理：這位墨西哥大廚運用料理推廣自身文化！(How This Mexican Chef Is Changing Perceptions With Food)

perception

demonstrate

embrace

evolve