Name: 獨家大解密！Supreme 到底在貴什麼！？ (Why Supreme Is So Expensive | So Expensive)
Uploaded: 2019-06-19T21:01:10.000Z
Duration: 7 min 15 s

程度副詞

I just bought a faux-fur jacket for $1,000, so.

我剛買了人造皮草外套，一件要一千美金。

People want to know, "Hey, look, that guy's wearing Supreme."

人們只關心：「嘿，你看那個人穿 Supreme！」

But people also make a living off it too, so.

These two jackets are nearly identical, both made by The North Face, and both using Gore-Tex technology.

這兩件夾克看起來幾乎一模一樣，都是 North Face 出品，也都運用了  Gore-Tex 技術。

The one on the right is currently selling for nearly $1,300.

右邊這件目前卻要價 1,300 美金。

This one just happens to be a North Face collaboration with Supreme.

因為這件剛好是 North Face 與 Supreme 的聯名款。

So why would someone pay nearly a thousand dollars more for basically the same jacket?

所以為什麼有人會為本質上相同的夾克支付近千美元？

And what is it that makes Supreme so expensive?

還有到底是什麼讓 Supreme 如此昂貴？

From the eye-catching logo to the limited product releases and artist collaborations.

從醒目的商標到限量的產品發售和藝術家合作。

Over the past 20 years, Supreme has transitioned from a small skateboarding store in New York to a $1 billion streetwear company.

在過去的 20 年裡，Supreme 已經從紐約的一家小型滑板店轉變為一家價值 10 億美元的街頭服飾公司。

But for its fans, Supreme is more than just a brand.

但對於它的粉絲來說，Supreme 不僅僅只是一個品牌。

It's often an obsession and an entire subculture of its own.

它是一種迷戀，一種自成一格的亞文化。

Since its origin, Supreme has maintained an image of being authentic.

從草創期開始，Supreme 就維持一貫可靠的形象。

Founded by James Jebbia in 1994, Supreme started as a skateboarding store in the SoHo neighborhood of Manhattan.

Supreme 於 1994 年由 James Jebbia 創立，最初是在曼哈頓蘇活區的一家滑板店。

The store started out selling hoodies and sweatshirts aimed towards the burgeoning New York skate scene.

因應新興的紐約滑板運動，這家店開始賣起連帽衫和運動棉 T。

Throughout the '90s and early 2000s, Supreme functioned as a skate brand catering to both skaters and those interested in the emerging streetwear style.

整個 90 年代和 21 世紀初期，Supreme 作為一個滑板品牌，同時滿足了滑版人和喜愛街頭穿搭的人的需求。

But Supreme's limited releases and attitude has pushed them far beyond their beginnings.

但 Supreme 的限量供應手法與態度已經讓它們的成長大幅超越草創時期。

The most iconic Supreme design is their box logo, originally, simple white, italic lettering over a plain red background.

Supreme 最具代表性的設計是它們的方框標誌，其最初的設計是簡單的白色、斜體字刻在純紅的背景上。

This design so closely echoes the work of conceptual artist Barbara Kruger that it is hard not to see it as a direct copy, and copyright theft is something that's in Supreme's DNA.

這種設計與概念藝術家 Barbara Kruger 的作品非常相似，很難不將其視為直接複製品，版權盜竊便已存在於 Supreme 這個品牌的基因中。

Supreme's appropriation of images is one of the keys to its popularity.

Supreme 對於圖像的挪用是其受歡迎的關鍵之一。

Pop-cultural imagery and logos are copied and adapted in a way that makes the designs feel more like contemporary art or graffiti than a big fashion brand.

流行文化圖像和標誌的複制和調整方式使設計更像當代藝術或塗鴉而不是大型時尚品牌。

Supreme's first branded T-shirt was simply a photo of Robert De Niro in the film "Taxi Driver" along with the iconic red and white logo.

Supreme 的第一件品牌 T 恤只是電影《計程車司機》中，勞勃．狄尼洛的照片以及具有代表性的紅白標誌。

And the company's use of often unlicensed imagery has led to Supreme being served cease-and-desist letters from Louis Vuitton, the NHL, and the NCAA.

Supreme 經常使用未經許可的圖案，因而收到來自 LV、NHL 和 NCAA 的停終條令。

The more we've been exposed to a brand, the more likely we are gonna be developing an association, a familiarity, almost a sense of connection with it.

我們越是常接觸到一個品牌，我們就越有可能引發聯想，一種熟悉、幾乎與它有某種關聯的感覺。

With Supreme, there's no element of status, and they went completely for what a logo should be all about: standing out, being identifiable.

對於 Supreme 來說，一開始並沒有任何品牌地位，而後他們完全證明了一個成功的商標應該擁有什麼元素：顯眼出眾、便於識別。

The recognizability is key to Supreme's power as a brand.

「可識別性」是 Supreme 這個品牌力量的關鍵。

But the items are also purposefully difficult to get ahold of, and their products are kept in high demand by very limited releases.

但這些商品也很難買到手，而且他們的產品透過「限量」來保持消費者的高度需求。

Tuesday at 11 a.m., you go to the Supreme website, you enter your basic information: your name, email, phone number, and credit card number.

星期二早上十一點，你進入 Supreme 的網站，輸入你的基本資料：你的名字、電子信箱、電話號碼和信用卡號。

Then, they'll send you a text later in the day to let you know if you've been selected to stand in line.

然後他們在當天稍晚會寄給你一封簡訊，告知你是否被選入候補名單。

Then on Wednesday, they'll send you a text telling you the time and store to report to.

在星期三的時候，他們會跟你說取貨的時間和商店。

And on Thursday, you go to the store at the time that you're given.

而星期四，你在指定的時間到達商店。

There's a one... there's a one-limit-per-style rule in Supreme, so what that means is, if a shirt comes out in black, red, and gray, you can only get it in gray.

Supreme 有「一人限購一色」的規定，所以說如果那件衣服有黑色、紅色和灰色，你只能購買灰色一種顏色。

So if I want it in black and red, I need to get two other people to get it for me, so they need to stand in line for me.

所以如果我想再買黑色和紅色，我需要請另外兩個人幫我買，這表示他們也需要幫我排隊。

A lot of the people who do stand in line are standing in line for someone else.

Supreme only sells their merchandise at 11 brick-and-mortar stores across the world as well as their online store.

Supreme 只在世界各地的 11 家實體店以及官方網路商店出售他們的商品。

It was around the mid to late 2000s that Supreme really started to pick up speed.

大約在 2000 年中後期，Supreme 開始迅速成長。

This success was partly due to what's been dubbed the "Kanye effect."

這成功的一部份歸功於「肯爺效應」。

In 2006, Supreme released their Supreme Blazer SB, a collaboration with Nike.

在 2006 年 Supreme 與 Nike 聯名發售了一款名為 Supreme Blazer SB 的鞋子。

The shoes retailed for around $150, with resale prices ranging from $300 to $400.

這雙鞋子的零售價約為 150 美元，轉售價格從 300 美元到 400 美元不等。

In July 2007, West was pictured wearing the shoes at the Grammy Foundation's Starry Night party.

2007 年 7 月，West 在「葛萊美星光熠熠派對」上被拍到穿著這雙鞋子。

After the photos were released, the resale price of the shoes doubled to $800.

照片發布之後，鞋子的轉售價格翻了一倍，來到 800 美元。

Similarly, the teal box-logo sweatshirt worn by Tyler, the Creator in his "She" music video, originally priced at around $150, sold for $3,500.

同樣地，在造物主泰勒 《She》這首歌的 MV 裡面，他穿著的青綠色方框標誌棉 T 原價約為 150 美元，但現今售價變成 3,500 美元。

But not everything from Supreme is gonna end up being valuable.

但並不是所有 Supreme 出品的東西最終都會變得很值錢。

Sellers like Chris have to decide what's going to be popular and what items will give them the best return.

像 Chris 這樣的賣家必須決定什麼商品未來將會受歡迎，哪些單品會讓他們獲得最多利潤。

So how I decide on what I think is gonna resell is based mainly on what I would wear.

轉售哪種商品的決定主要取決於我會穿什麼樣的衣服。

You can also go to these Instagram accounts, and they'll have Instagram polls, Twitter polls, talking about, oh, like you can upvote this.

你也可以去看一些 Instagram 的帳號、Instagram 的民調、Twitter 的民調、論壇。喔，就像你可以按這個讚。

You can downvote this, and it's this crowdsourcing tool to understand the market better and find out,

你也可以按不喜歡，這樣的眾包工具，可以更佳了解市場並找出答案。

Oh, this one's gonna resell, or this one is really popular.

喔，這可以轉售，或是這個真的很受歡迎。

The most money that I've made off of one Supreme item is the 2017 fall/winter collaboration with The North Face, and it was a mountain parka.

我在 Supreme 轉售中賺取最多錢的是 2017 年與 The North Face 的秋冬聯名，它是一件連帽型登山外套。

I bought it for $398, and I sold it for $950.

我買 398 美元，並以 950 美元的價格售出。

This incredibly limited release means that buying and reselling Supreme items is where the real money is.

這種極為限量的販售方式說明轉售 Supreme 的商品正是賺錢的最佳方式。

When you look at the prices of Supreme items in-store, they aren't as outlandish as you may expect.

當你看到 Supreme 店內商品的價格時，它們並不如你想像的難以接受。

They retail for around $38 for a T-shirt to $138 for a sweatshirt.

他們 T 恤的零售價格大約是 38 塊美金，棉 T 的價格約落在 138 塊美金。

But it's once these products have sold out that they can reach 30 times their original price.

但一旦這些產品售罄，它的價格可以漲到其原價的 30 倍之多。

Many other big brands are now adopting this method of very limited releases to generate hype around their products from trainers to other streetwear brands.

許多其他的大品牌現在也採用這種限量販售方式來炒作他們的產品，從運動品牌到其他棉 T 的品牌皆群起效尤。

These releases make people feel like they're part of something exclusive.

這樣的販售方式讓大眾覺得自己很獨特。

The more we make a consumer work for their particular access to a product, the more alluring these services and products are becoming.

我們越是讓消費者為買到產品費盡心思，這些服務和產品的吸引力也就越大。

So I think Supreme know very well how to make something incredibly accessible and sexy.

所以我覺得 Supreme 很懂得如何讓一樣東西變得非常易懂且性感。

By allowing us to jump through as many hoops as possible to make it relevant for them.

透過讓我們通過一層又一層的關卡去獲得它們。

But there's something about Supreme that's different.

但有些關於 Supreme 的東西是與眾不同的。

Could any other company get away with selling a brick or a branded crowbar?

有任何一家店能夠銷售磚塊或是品牌撬棍嗎？

What is it that gives Supreme such a devoted following?

到底是什麼因素讓 Supreme 有這麼多忠誠的支持者呢？

我自己也覺得那些單品的確很酷。

It's a name brand, and name brands attract anybody at the end of the day.

它是一個名牌，直到世界末日名牌還是非常吸引人。

In New York especially, it's a lot of streetwear.

特別在紐約，有很多街頭穿搭。

So, like, people wanna have that, like, exclusive, those exclusive items.

So I feel like Supreme, they keep their quantities very low because of the high demand.

所以我覺得 Supreme 以控制數量達到高需求的效果。

People will pay that price if it's something they like.

人們如果喜歡的話就會願意付錢。

Supreme, I think the thing that really causes people to spend money and wait in line is kind of the "it factor" that it has, right?

我想 Supreme 真正讓人們花錢並排隊等候原因就是「模仿效應」，對吧？

They've done an amazing job of limiting quantities and underproducing to the demand.

他們在「限量」和「供不應求」方面做得非常出色。

So in that way, their market of people that their... of people that would wanna buy the product isn't just people that are interested in the product.

因此，他們的市場不僅僅只是對產品感興趣的人而已。

But it's also people that are interested in making money, and that demographic is way bigger than people that are just interested in streetwear.

還能夠吸引到想靠轉售商品賺錢的人，因此他們的客群不僅限於喜愛街頭穿搭的人。

So when there's an opportunity to make money, then there's gonna be a huge line of people around the block regardless if they want to wear the product or not.

因此當有賺錢機會，無論他們是否喜愛這項產品，都會有很多人圍著這塊街區排隊。

Supreme has managed to somehow keep their cool, alternative and exclusive image despite their expansion.

儘管擴店神速，Supreme 還是能夠維持他們一貫的酷炫、另類和獨特的形象。

And has still maintained its skater credentials despite selling a 50% stake in the brand to a private equity firm.

儘管將該品牌 50％ 的股份出售給一家私募股權公司，Supreme 在滑板界還是備受認可。

With more and more people wanting their products, for now, it looks like Supreme isn't going anywhere.

越來越多人想購買他們的產品，看來 Supreme 的熱潮暫時還不會減退。