字幕列表 影片播放
It's 3 in the morning in The Mecca
and this is about as quiet as it gets
Hajj is the largest annual pilgrimage in The World.
It happens in Mecca, Saudi Arabia
and for Muslims it's a requirment that you have to do once in your lifetime
The Saudi government estimated that last year
there were over 3 million pilgrims who attended
but the unofficial number is much higher
My parents are originally from Lahora, Pakistan
They are practicing Muslims
And, last year they decided it was time for them to perform Hujj.
So, I went with them to help them with their journey
But, also for myself as well.
It was the first time for all of us
and I didn't go thinking I was gonna make a VBS documentary
I just took the smallest camera we had in the office
and literally shot from the hip. You're not allowed to shoot in most of the holy places
So, this is the footage I managed to sneak out.
We flew out on Saudi Arabian Airlines. It was about a 10 hour flight.
from JFK to Medina
Where we spent 6 days getting mentally prepared
for the Hujj that we were about to embark on.
[MEDINA, SAUDI ARABIA] In Pre-islamic times, Medina was a place
where the travelers who were crossing the desert
in camel caravans would come to rest
It was kind of like a desert oasis.
In modern times it's kind of the same thing, but less camels
and more shopping malls and hotels.
There's also a stunning mosque there
called The Prophets Masjid
Which is the 2nd holiest site in Islam
When you're there, you're basically just go to the mosque
five times a day for six days straight
to get into meditative state
The mosque is huge. It holds almost 700,000 people.
And when we were there for the Friday prayer
it was pretty much full
Flying to Mecca from Medina was really interesting
Before we went to the airport, we cleansed ourselves in a very specific way
we had to put on a white seamless garment made out of terry cloth
that all the pilgrims have to wear
it's a renunciation of the life that you come from
it's supposed to put everyone on the same level
There's no upper class or lower class.
Everyone's the same- it's just you in the sheet and that's it.
This is called getting into a state of eran
Besides the clothes, there are a lot of other rules.
You can't smoke, you can't have sex, you can't shave. You can't cut your nails
and there are a bunch of other no no's
So, we got on this charter just for the pilgrims
ten minutes after the plane took off from Medina
the captain announced that we flown over a designation point
and we were in the zone near Mecca
we all had to start reciting a prayer
our group guide got onto the loud speaker system of the airplane
and started yelling the prayer- everyone started chanting it
I had a moment where I looked around
and saw all these men and women in the white robes- men with their beards
and just thought: if someone from the west could see us right now
they'd think we were a bunch of fanatical jihadis
on some kind of an insa ne mission
when in reality, it's just pilgrims who decided to go on a
a spiritual quest
I think what was most odd about this flight
were the flight attendants who were all filipino- wearing
their normal Saudi flight attendant outfits
looking like they would rather have any other gig in The World than this one.
We landed in Jeddah and took a bus into Mecca
That ride into the city was one of the wilder scenes I've ever seen in my life.
There were all these pilgrims coming from all directions
All kinds of vehicles
You see them riding on the tops of cars and vans and buses
I remember seeing a pilgrim jumping from the roof of one bus to another
and he's just trying to get to the city
Mecca is not a very big city
during the year it's a relatively mellow place
except during the week of Hujj
The city completely transforms
Half the challenge of completing your Hujj
is getting all these rituals done
in a very strict timeline
and dealing with the fact that there are about 300 million other people there
to try and do the exact same thing at the same time
After we checked into our hotel in Mecca
we walked towards the grand mosque which is also known as the
[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] Masjid Al-Haram. It's the holiest place in Islam
[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] and it's a massive structure
[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] this mosque can hold upwards of 4 million people
[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] with its outdoor and indoor space
during Hujj, it's technically the largest gathering of people in The World
at any given time
This mosque is what muslims pray towards from all over The World.
As you're walking towards it- you feel the anticipation build
people have been waiting their whole lives to come to this place
once you enter the mosque, you see the kaaba
The kaaba is a black box in the center of the grand mosque
it was built around 2,000 BC
people have been praying towards it since before Islam started
When Mohammad finally showed up
he cleaned up the place. Got rid of all the idols the pagans had been worshipping
and reordained the building as The House of God
So, in the grand mosque we had to do our first ritual
which is called the toaf
which is basically doing seven counter clockwise laps around the kaaba
It's kind of like being in a moshpit with hundreds of thousands of people
But, instead of it being full of angry young punk kids
we were up against aggressive, pushy bangladeshi grandmothers
I had my parents on each arm interlocked
and we held each other as we went around the structure seven times.
Staring at the kaaba
it's a very intense and heavy vibe
but the one thing that's a total bummer is, you look up
and all you see are these
massive luxury five star hotels for the super rich muslims
who want to pray from the confines of their room.
After running around the kaaba seven times
you have to do a bunch of other rituals before completing your Hujj.
You have five days to get it done, and it's kind of like being
You have a checklist, you have to be smart, and you have to use strategy in order to make this happen on schedule.
You have to do the sai
Which is walking an running back and forth between two hills
Back in the day it used to be outdoors. And now it's been turned into
an indoor structure with two very, very long corridors
You have to spend a day at mount arafat
It's where the prophet delivered his last sermon from.
You spend the day in prayer and contemplation
and you beg for forgiveness for all of your sins.
It's a very important day.
And after spending the majority of it in a tent
I walked out and went into the direction of the mountain
I walked through this wild scene with people everywhere
camped out with their animals
As I got closer to Mount Arafat
it was such an incredible sight
because it had been completely transformed
and looked like a snow covered peak
Our tour group operator before we went on this trip gave us some guidelines
and the last point on this sheet said
Be patient, be very patient, be very very patient.
I fully grasped the meaning of this
when we had to take a three kilometer bus ride
and it ended up taking eight hours
It was the middle of night and we had to collect stones
it was one of our rituals in a place called Muslifa
We got off the bus and navigated our way
around sleeping bodies all over the ground
found the stones and then it was time to pray
and so we just threw the prayer rugs down on the side of the highway
and hit the mats.
After picking up the stones we got back on the bus
and drove to Mina
The valley of Mina is where the majority of the pilgrims stay.
It's a tense city
That fills up with the population of Seattle for a week
and after Hujj ends, it clears out again and goes away
It's tents as far as the eye can see.
We arrived in Mina, and that's where we had to
stone satan- that's the next ritual
this one was actually a lot of fun
We had to throw twenty-one stones
seven at three separate satan stoning stations
and I finally got to see what satan looks like
Up until a couple years ago
Satan looked like three large pillars
sticking up out of a large pit.
But, the space wasn't big enough
and there was a stampede and people died
so the Saudi government
They built three ramps the size of a mulit-lane highway
and there were three pillars inside of it that represent the devil.
They're lit in shades of green
and there's a strange rumbling loud sound coming out of them.
As my Dad pointed out- the whole thing made satan seem quit surreal
Before we finished the Hujj
We had to repeat some of the rituals that we'd already done.
We had to revisit satan
Throw rocks at him two more times
We had to go back to Mecca from Mina
And do another seven counter clockwise laps.
Then it was time for Eid
which marks the official end of Hujj
and is a big celebration.
It's the end of the state of eran that we've been in
and we slaughter an animal to celebrate it
And then the last thing you do
is, you shave your head.
This is the line for the barbershop
This is the line
Soon they will all be bald- all of these men.
The barbershops in Mecca have these massive lines outside of them
and you see
Hundreds of thousands of baldos walking around town.
Those people have all succeeded in completing their Hujj .
Dealing with the Hujj every year is a huge
legistial challenge for the Saudi Government.
So they sat up a ministy of H ujj
In the past, there have been incidences
where pilgrims were trampled, when ramps collapsed, and pilgrims died.
The Saudi govt. has invested billions of dollars
to create an infrastructure to make this work
with complex crowd-control techniques
What I saw when I went last year
was something that somehow manages to work.
But, it kind of goes without saying bringing 3 million people
to such a small place
is going to bring up some complications
There's a bit of a dark side
This many people in such a small place
it really gets unwieldy.
Despite the saudi govt's best efforts to deal with this profound
logistical challenge
The bottom line is that there are too manhy people.
And people need things
They need places to sleep.
They need food.
They need toilets.
The poor people that are there- you see them camped out on the side of the road.
For days on end.
It really felt like Mecca was maxing out by the end of Hujj.
The whole scene starts looking and feeling rather apocolyptic.
No matter where all these people come from
No matter what they do or how rich or poor they might be
During this pilgrimage to Mecca, I felt like everyone was just the same.
It was unlike any place I've ever been
or unlike anything I've ever experienced.
I was there standing amongst millions of people
I was there with my family.
On some level I felt like I was all alone.
On a personal trek
Everyday life felt like it was hundreds of thousands of miles away
We flew back to NY, we landed in the morning
And I went straight back to the Vice offices
Which may not have been the wisest of ideas
I felt like I had been catapulted from one end of the universe to the other.