Two and a half years ago during my very first visit in India I spent two days walking all around the slums of Mumbai and

我花了兩天走遍孟買的貧民窟

Even though I got to learn so much about the life

即使我更加認識了貧民窟生活

And the slums I didn't really have the chance to live

我卻沒有機會真的住在裡面看看

Inside the slums and so I left with more questions than answers

所以我的問題比得到的解答還多

So now that I came back to India for the second time I decided to go back to Mumbai and actually spend five days

所以現在我第二次來到印度

Living inside the adi, which is one of the largest slums in the world

我決定回到孟買

This is how it looks?

然後真的在 Dharavi 住上五天

At the end of the 19th century that IV was a sparsely populated village inhabited by coldy fishermen

那是世界上最大的其中一個貧民窟

Then the slums were established in 1882

而以下就是它的樣貌

During the British colonial era and grew exponentially fast due to the expulsion of various polluting industries from downtown Mumbai

在十九世紀末，Dharavi 是一個人口稀少的小鎮

Throughout the years millions of people have reported to Mumbai from rural India in search of a better future

主要的居民是苦力漁民

And some of them settled in Dharavi this led to the local population being incredibly diverse in their religions cultures and languages

然後在英國殖民期間的 1882 年，貧民窟建立了

These days that I've is one of the largest slums in the world housing up to a million people

並且因為孟買市區產業快速發展帶來的多污染產業，貧民窟以倍數增長壯大

Since there's very little government regulation it has become a hub for entrepreneurs and in place of incredibly cheap labor

在幾年間，幾百萬人為了更好的未來，從鄉間來到了孟買

It is estimated that the annual turnover of Dharavi some around a billion u.s.

他們有些人在 Dharavi 定居了

dollars with most of their goods being exported overseas

這使得當地居民擁有非常多元的

In the 21st century Dharavi has become a topic of interest in mystery for

宗教、文化和語言

Millions of people due to the publicity to received from movies like Slumdog Millionaire and books like Shantaram as for me

在現今，Dharavi 是世界上最大的貧民窟之一

I'm not a scientist or a researcher of any kind

裡頭住了高達一百萬人

I simply wanted to learn more about what life was like in the slums of Mumbai. I knew I would find this experience

由於政府法規限制很少

I open it. I just couldn't have predicted how much

它已經成為了一個企業家和廉價勞工的據點

It is 12 p.m.. In Mumbai a few kilometers away from the slums

Dharavi 的年營業額預估上看約十億美金

And I'm finally going there so my friend who lives in the slums. Who's called Praveen is already waiting for me

大多數的貨品都出口到海外

I'm gonna pack my stuff and take a back seat to meet him

在 21 世紀，Dharavi 成為了百萬人感興趣並疑惑的主題

It's been almost two years since I last saw Praveen and I was incredibly happy to finally meet him again

這都歸因於《貧民百萬富翁》和《項塔蘭》一書所帶來的知名度

Yeah

就我而言，我既不是科學家也非任何方面的研究人員

brother

我就只是純粹想更了解

Once we met we started exploring the slums right away and made our way to one of the biggest markets in all of that that

在孟買貧民窟內的生活會是如何

Was completely packed with people there's literally thousands of people buying and selling stuff

我知道這次經驗一定會讓我開眼界

There's kids going home from school. There's all the vegetables fruits clothing electronics and everything else you can imagine

只是無法想像究竟會見識到多少

It didn't seem like all the food stalls were properly sanitized

現在是孟買中午十二點

But the locals told me the products were fresh so I dug in walk garden for 15 euro cents. That's a good deal

我距離貧民窟只有數公里

Then we kept on exploring other areas of that, I'll be passing through dozens of tiny crowded lanes

我終於要去那裡了

I'm gonna try playing cricket for the first time in my life right now

我有個叫做 Praveen 的朋友住在貧民窟，他已經在等我了

right here

我要打包好，然後叫輛車過去見他

After a couple of hours in the slums I asked permian if I could use the bathroom somewhere

我上次見到 Praveen 已經是是近兩年前了

He said no problem, bro

我實在很開心終於能夠再次見到他

And we ended up here in those houses these houses these houses

一旦碰面，我們馬上開始探索貧民窟

Or these house people don't have any toilet

然後前往 Dharavi 其中一個最大的市集

So everyone just crosses this sheet and goes to the bubble toilets right there every single day over

它實在是充滿了人潮

2,000 people used this public toilet, and it cost only 5 Euro cents to get it they have toilets on both sides

真的有幾千人在買賣東西

This side right here

有小孩放學回家

Every single door has a different toilet

有各種的蔬果、衣物

It turned out the day I arrived to Dharavi was a really important celebration across India called Guru, Poornima

還有電器，各種你能想像到的東西

It is an Indian festival dedicated to spiritual and academic teachers during which the students pay their respects and express gratitude

看起來並不是所有的食物攤販都很衛生

Praveen brought me to a tent where everyone was paying their respects to their spiritual teacher status fighting the atmosphere was really

但是當地人告訴我商品都很新鮮

Festive and everyone got as much free food as they wanted. I couldn't resist it, too

所以我就開吃啦！一包爆米花才 15 分歐元 (約台幣 5 元)

Which is like well here it became smart a single

真是划算

Everyone was really excited that I came to the festival and they brought me on the stage which was quite a unique experience

來吃看看

Eventually, we hit the streets and spend hours parading all across the slums

然後我們繼續走訪 Dharavi 的其他區

the police have stopped the whole

穿梭過幾十條擠滿人的小巷弄

Traffic in this intersection so that we could pass a little in the middle of the street and now the chorus goes together this card

我現在要生平第一次嘗試板球

And the procession will continue

就現在

Late at night pravin took me to the place that would become my home for the next five days

哈哈哈哈

I finally go to the place where I will be saying for the next five days. It looks like a proper slum

在貧民窟內幾小時後，我問 Praveen 我能不能上個廁所

There's many small houses a lot of moist dark lanes

他說「老兄，沒問題！」

Sometimes there's some lighting, but not always

然後我們就來到這裡

Yeah, yo Praveen

在那些屋子和這些房子或是這些

I'll wait I need to leave money wishes

人們沒有任何廁所，所以大家都要過馬路去那裡的公共廁所

It is already 11 p.m.. At night, so I guess it's the end of the first day of me being in the slums

每一天都有超過兩千人用這間公共廁所

But so far has been awesome right now. Just go straight to bed

使用一次只要五分歐元 (約台幣 2 元)

I'll try to wake up early next morning to once again explore as much as I can

兩側都有廁所

This morning I went downstairs and everyone was taking a bath

就在這側

And then my host said so where do you want to take a bath?

每一扇門後都有一個馬桶

I said I don't know I'm too lazy to think about and then he said no no no no

結果在我來到 Dharavi 的這天剛好是一個印度很重要的節日，叫做 Guru Purnima (導師節)

If you live in the slums you have to take a bath every single day no exceptions

這個印度節日向精神導師和學業導師致敬

So I guess it's time for my morning bath they

在這天，學生表達他們的敬意和感謝

Start with a pina

Praveen 帶我到一個棚子內，每個人都在向他們的精神導師致敬

Fresh feeling of freshness and

這裡很有過節的氣氛，每個人想吃多少的免費食物都行

For your head you guys use like a shampoo

我也忍不住想吃！

After the shower we had a quick breakfast and continued exploring that Island that day Praveen wanted to show me the only

剛拿了一些免費食物，但是他們沒有提供湯匙或是叉子

Non-urbanized place in the slums, so we walked at the edge of the lobby and hopped into his friends Pratt

所以要用你的雙手

How do you like it Praveen?

我們正是要這樣做！

It's good

食物嘗起來會更好吃

Good you want to swim you want to go swimming

吃起來會更好吃

Well hater ha ha

好吃嗎？

Some minutes later. We arrived to this really tiny fishermen's village where we met up with a few more praveen's friends

是呀，好吃

We just came to some small island and look at the color of that water. It's even more interesting hey

每個人都很興奮我來參加這個節慶，他們還把我帶上台

We have a floating platform right here

真的是一個頗特殊的體驗

Then a bathtub right there. It didn't take me long to understand

活動結束了，每個人都準備離開看列隊遊行

Why this place was so incredibly important to Praveen and his friends?

最後我們來到街上，在貧民窟的各處遊行了幾小時

It was their only get away from the hustle and bustle of life in Dharavi now. We're going to some sort of another swamp

警察封起了這個十字路口，我們就能走靠近路的中央

That's much bigger than this one apparently and also Praveen told me that no foreigners have ever

現在合唱團也一起走，這輛車和遊行也會繼續

Visited this place only the local people who who live in these tiny houses or our huts

當晚，Praveen 帶我去到我接下來五天的家

Somewhere somewhere there, that's that is garbage

我終於要去我接下來要待上五天的地方了

That's that is

看起來是個不錯的貧民窟

Relatively clean water so they have this water drainage system

有很多小房子，很多噪音和黑暗的巷弄

where basically the fish from this side they cannot pass to that sides to the garbage and

有時會有一些燈

The water level increases on that side the water without the garbage can flow to that side

並不是總是有

Lucas's house, yeah

到了

We have some images so that and for the yeah

Proveen！

Yeah, so they also sleep here or just rescue

已經晚上十一點了，所以我想我在貧民窟的第一天就到這裡

Fish catching so they catch fish here

不過，目前為止都很棒

Here, and then the rest here the place wasn't the cleanest but the guys didn't seem to care all that much and made the best

現在我要直接上床睡覺

of their time in the nature

明天早上我會盡量早起，盡可能多多探索

The woman in the vote now has a helmet. Let's race guys who's gonna be first

今天早上我下樓去，每個人都在洗澡

Would you like to live here

然後我的房東和我說「你想在哪洗澡？」

This is a small island. They say it's the small Thailand right here

我說「我不知道，我想我懶得洗澡。」

Coming here was like going into a time machine that took me hundreds of years back to the end of the 19th century

然後他說「不不不，

when that IV was just a group of tiny fishermen's villages housing only a few thousand families a

如果你住在貧民窟，你一定要每天洗澡。」

few hundred meters later

「沒有例外。」

I was thinking back to the 21st century where I could see the mind-boggling

所以我想是時候來個晨澡了

Contrasts between the fisherman's village the slums and the high-end office buildings that were so close to one another yet

是從腳開始，對吧？

So completely distant at the same time. This is still the swamp side. That's a super black river, and these are already the slums

對

Someone's building their house right now. We're so close literally 3 meters away

提神啊

Though I don't think you can cross this part so easy

提神的感覺

bye, bye

你們洗頭是用洗髮精還是 ...

bye Hey

有時是洗髮精，或是肥皂

From then on I would wake up early every morning have myself a refreshing shower either inside or outside

好，我用肥皂

Yes

會有幫助的

Then I'd get something to eat and spend the whole day exploring throughout those few short days

洗完澡之後我們快速吃了早餐

We went absolutely

然後繼續探索 Dharavi

Everywhere from children's playgrounds to workshops where praveen's friends worked to busy

這天 Praveen 想帶我去看貧民窟內唯一沒有都市化的地方

intersections and tons of other interesting places a couple of times

所以我們走到 Dharavi 邊境

I borrowed my friend's motorbike and drove to a few of the many other slums in the area some didn't look that good

然後和他的朋友 Pratt 碰面

But others surprised me with incredible views well, Jess. It's one slum

Praveen，你覺得如何？

That's just by the sea the sea is right here. The waves are really strong today

很好啊，老兄

So apparently everything is wet even the walls of these houses

很好

I didn't expect this but some of the slums we visited were so clean. They didn't feel like slums at all the slum

是啊，非常好。兄弟，你覺得呢？

We're visiting right now is

很好。你想游泳嗎？

extremely clean and

要去游泳嗎？

Every Hut is basically a house

等會兒吧

So definitely look like Islam, it looks like a normal cute area the houses are color for that's a ping pong

等會兒啊

That's a yellow one blue one the red one the orange one the other one

幾分鐘後，我們來到這座非常小的漁夫小鎮

Though it--one and the best part is there's no smell it feels clean. It feels very beautiful very well preserved

我們要再和 Praveen 的幾位朋友碰面

We also checked out a few areas in the slums that the government redeveloped into proper apartment buildings

我們剛來到一座小島

Just entered one of the houses apparently it's not allowed, but we're gonna transfer you stop. I don't know

然後看看這水的顏色

Would you look at the view apparently this whole area used to be slams right now this part is to the Muslims

這裡甚至更有趣

But everything around it became a building

我們這有一個浮板

so they would demolish the huts and these tiny buildings and build something like this and give everyone a flats and

然後那裡有一個浴缸

The same thing happened here where I'm standing right now

我很快就理解到為什麼這個地方對於 Praveen 和他的朋友來說會那麼重要

This is a huge apartment building the UCB stands. No one can stop this love

這裡是他們唯一可以脫離 Dharavi 喧擾生活的地方

One of those days Praveen told me we could go rooftop

現在我們要去另一個某種沼澤

At first it seemed a bit weird to randomly walk on people's roofs in the middle of the day

很顯然比這座還大很多

But Praveen told me no problem bro and off we went

還有 Praveen 告訴我，從沒有外國人造訪過這個地方

Everyone thinks Hong Kong is the place to go rooftop in but it turns out into that I?

只有居住在這棟小屋子的當地人

Look at this huge huge tree

或是我們在那裡某處的棚屋

There's room right out of the roof

那裡有垃圾

There's a temple downstairs for hanging around on this roof

那裡則是相對乾淨的水

Next to the tree. I don't know how many roofs. We've been on, but it seems like 50 or more

他們有這個水流系統

there's hundreds and hundreds of huts all around this area and apparently can go on most of them as long as you don't break the

所以基本上這裡的魚就不會游到有垃圾的那邊

Roof because it's someone's house look at all of these houses

然後當那邊的水位提高時，垃圾也不會流過來

Everywhere in every single one of them. There are some people so here someone is drying their clothes

這是 Lucas 的房子？

There someone's cooking. I think cuz I can smell it and in every single house

對

There's at least a few people right now and apparently there's someone down there. Also hello namaste namaste

酷

On my last day that I had a super fun morning dance battle with perviness

有一些圖片

Then we made our way to the local train station to check out how the

他的爺爺和爸爸都會在這裡休息

millions of people of the slums commuted to other areas of Mumbai

這樣啊

Every single day we're approaching the train station to take a train that crosses all of the Navi

所以他們也會在這裡睡覺，還是只是休息？

It's only two stops, but we can see literally the whole swamp. There's the train. That's the cabin pretty packed

捕魚

I would say how the chains beginning to move let her get these photos back. There's so many people outside

捕魚？

Today's my last day in the slums of Mumbai and as any

對

Sensible person would do I decided to get a clean professional shape for 30 US dollars chefs

所以他們會在這裡和這捕魚，然後在這裡休息

I know this might look a little different from your ideal barber shop, but this guy was a total pro

對

He gave me proper clean shape in no time

這裡看起來不是很乾淨，不過大夥們看來也不怎麼在意

We forgot those in fact in for good measure

並且盡情享受大自然

Then everybody

船裡的女人現在有了安全帽

Then ever grow

我們來競賽，看誰會得第一

The five days that I lived in the slums of Mumbai opened my eyes in ways

這是個很棒的小鎮，我們真的很喜歡這個地方

I couldn't have imagined because they got to spend so much time with the local people who completely

你會想住在這裡嗎？

transformed my outlook on what their lives were like

是啊，很想

You see as most outsiders had a very distorted view of the people of Islamists

那是座小島，他們說那是小泰國

We grew up hearing stories about them dying on the streets

來到這裡就好像搭上了時光機，將我帶回到幾百年前的十九世紀末

No one being able to read and write kids having to sleep, surrounded by flesh-eating brats

當時 Dharavi 只是一個小漁村，住戶只有幾千戶

And so on there are of course tons of problems that need to be addressed especially when it comes to sanitation

遠離幾百公尺後，我開始想回 21世紀

for example sources say that in Dharavi

我可以看到漁村和貧民窟還有遠處高大建築之間衝擊人心的對比

There is an average of one toilet for a thousand people also

他們距離彼此如此近，然後差別卻如此巨大

Livestock general lives in the same quarters with people and that combined with the fact that the local water sources lack cleaning facilities

這裡還是沼澤區

sometimes causes the spread of contagious diseases

那是一條超級黑的河

I am obviously in no way knowledgeable enough to know of all the intricacies of life in the slums

而這裡已經是貧民窟了

However people there are just like everywhere else

有人現在在蓋他們的房子

They have their own dreams goals careers thoughts and emotions

我們距離非常近，真的就只相隔三公尺

They are no way different from the rest of us it is said that the Rob is the most

雖然我想你沒辦法很容易跨越這部分

Entrepreneurial place in the world and I found that to be very much true

再見！

Most people I met had something going for them some were running their own workshops

再見啦！

Or small factories others had the restaurant shops or food stalls not only that a lot of the slum dwellers

那之後我每天早起

actually work those big office buildings for various technology or financial companies and

在室內或是室外洗個涼爽的澡

Simply lived in the slums to save money on friends

好誒

Which is incredibly expensive in Mumbai there were some astonishing success stories to take my good friend shale ash

非常棒