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  • Cashmere is one of the most

    喀什米爾羊絨是世界上

  • sought-after fibers in the world.

    最搶手的纖維之一。

  • Its fine hairs are softer, lighter

    它細緻的絨毛更柔軟、輕盈

  • and can be up to three times more insulating

    而且比羊毛還要能隔絕溫度

  • than sheep wool.

    高達三倍。

  • It's been a prized material for centuries,

    好幾世紀以來它都被視為非常珍貴的材料,

  • but its quality comes at a cost,

    而它的品質當然有一定的價格

  • and a luxury cashmere jumper could cost you

    一件奢華的喀什米爾羊絨外套可能要價

  • well over $500.

    超過 500 美元。

  • So why is it so expensive?

    到底為什麼為這麼昂貴呢?

  • Cashmere doesn't come from a sheep

    喀什米爾羊絨並不是如你想的一樣

  • like you might think, but from the cashmere goat.

    取自綿羊,而是取自喀什米爾山羊。

  • These goats are found across the Himalayas

    這些山羊棲息於喜馬拉雅山附近

  • where temperatures can drop to minus 30 degrees,

    當地的溫度最低可達 -30 度

  • and their freezing cold habitat

    而如此寒冷的環境

  • means they grow an incredibly thick, warm coat.

    意味著他們能夠長出非常厚實且溫暖的皮毛。

  • It's not the outer hair you can see

    拿來做衣服的

  • that's used for making garments,

    並不是我們所見的外層毛

  • but the super soft coat just underneath it.

    而是在內層超級柔軟的絨毛。

  • Johnstons of Elgin has been making cashmere

    約翰斯頓 · 埃爾金自 1851 年

  • products since 1851, and to do that,

    便開始製造喀什米爾織品

  • they need a lot of goats.

    而他們需要非常多的山羊。

  • We are using the cashmere from about 1.2 million goats,

    我們使用了大約 120 萬頭山羊的羊絨

  • and those goats are spread right over Outer Mongolia,

    而這些山羊主要分布於中國的外蒙古

  • China, a little bit in Afghanistan as well.

    還有一些來自阿富汗。

  • There's a reason so many goats are needed.

    需要這麼多山羊是有原因的。

  • While a sheep can produce at least three kilos

    一隻綿羊每年大約能產出至少 3 公斤的羊毛

  • of wool each year, a cashmere goat

    但是一隻喀什米爾山羊

  • will only give you around 200 grams.

    每年只成產出約 200 公克。

  • So basically, this much cashmere from every goat.

    所以基本上每隻山羊只能產出這麼多羊絨。

  • For a scarf, we could be working with

    一條圍巾會需要

  • the production of a single goat,

    一隻山羊產出的羊絨量

  • but for a jumper, for example,

    但是以一件外套來說

  • you could be working with five, eight,

    可能就會需要 5 隻、8 隻、

  • 10 goats' worth of cashmere.

    或是 10 隻山羊產出的羊絨。

  • Because of the tiny amount each goat produces,

    因為每隻山羊能夠產出的羊絨量真的很少

  • the supply is severely limited,

    所以總是供不應求

  • and the fibers can only be collected once a year.

    更何況羊絨每年只能採集一次。

  • While sheep are sheared for their wool,

    綿羊是透過修剪來取得牠們的羊毛

  • cashmere goats are usually brushed

    而喀什米爾山羊則適用刷的方式

  • to remove the soft hairs that molt in the spring.

    來取得春天換毛時的脫毛。

  • Even when you've harvested the fibers,

    就算取得了這些羊絨

  • the usable weight halves once it's been stripped

    在移除掉油脂、泥土、較粗的毛髮之後

  • of grease, dirt, and thicker hairs.

    通常能用的羊絨重量也只有原本的一半而已。

  • And despite its popularity,

    儘管喀什米爾羊絨如此受世人所愛

  • cashmere still only makes up 0.5%

    羊絨最多仍然只佔了

  • of the world's total wool production.

    全球羊毛產量的 0.5% 而已。

  • Once you have the pure cashmere,

    取得純羊絨之後

  • processing it takes a lot of work.

    加工更是一連串繁複的工法。

  • The fibers are first dyed to the right color

    這些纖維首先被染成所需的顏色

  • and aerated to stop them clumping together.

    接著暴露於空氣中來防止結塊。

  • Cashmere softness means that it needs to be treated

    羊絨的柔軟也代表著

  • delicately throughout the whole process.

    它在整個過程中需要被悉心地照料

  • Any chemicals or overprocessing will damage the fibers.

    任何化學藥劑或是過度加工都會破壞纖維。

  • The fibers are then carded,

    羊絨接著會被梳整

  • a process that detangles and lines up the hairs

    這個工法使羊絨免於打結

  • in thin sheets so that they can be spun into a yarn.

    並梳理成細薄的片狀,使它能夠被紡成毛線。

  • The quality of cashmere is graded on its fineness

    喀什米爾的品質取決於它的精緻程度

  • and its length, and a high-quality individual

    以及長度,而單根高品質的喀什米爾毛

  • cashmere hair can be as thin as 14 micrometers.

    最細能夠達到 14 微米。

  • When it's finally ready, this dyed and spun yarn

    當一切準備就緒,這一捲捲染色過的毛線

  • can then be used to make everything

    便能夠用來製作任何東西

  • from jumpers to scarves.

    諸如外套或是圍巾。

  • When you're making a cashmere scarf,

    當你在製作一條喀什米爾圍巾時

  • everybody thinks this is the most simple

    大家都以為這是

  • product in the world.

    世界上最簡單的產品

  • And of course, when they come to the mill

    不過當他們來到紡織廠

  • and they see how it's actually done,

    親眼見到這是如何製作後

  • they realize actually there's a huge amount to it,

    他們就會發現其實製程十分複雜

  • and there's an awful lot of hands and skilled work

    其中還包括了非常多的手工以及專業技術

  • that goes into making that possible.

    才能完成這項產品。

  • So it is absolutely about the knowledge of the people,

    所以這完全是仰賴人的知識

  • about the skills of the people,

    以及他們的專業技能

  • how you nurture this really delicate fiber

    這關乎你在整個過程中該如何

  • through the process.

    對待、運用這精緻的材質

  • - [Narrator] Cheaper cashmere products

    較為廉價的喀什米爾產品

  • have become hugely popular recently.

    最近變得十分流行。

  • These claim to offer the quality of cashmere

    這使得市場要求以較低的價格

  • for a lower price.

    來獲得一樣品質的喀什米爾羊絨

  • Some may use a slightly lower grade of cashmere

    有些製造商會使用較為低等的喀什米爾羊絨

  • or different processing methods

    或是使用不同的製程

  • to make the end result more affordable,

    來讓最終的產品價格更能被接受

  • and while they are comparatively cheap,

    然而儘管他們相較之下已經比較便宜了

  • they're still usually at least twice the price of wool.

    喀什米爾的價格仍然是羊毛的至少兩倍。

  • There have been extreme cases of mislabeling, too,

    標示不清的的問題也變得十分嚴重

  • and some supposedly 100% cashmere products

    一些應該是 100% 純喀什米爾的產品當中

  • have been found to contain yak hair or even rat fur.

    竟然發現含有牛毛,甚至是老鼠毛。

  • If you do find a really cheap product

    如果你發現一件非常便宜

  • that claims to be cashmere,

    並且標榜為喀什米爾的產品

  • it may be too good to be true.

    這應該好康到不可能是真的。

  • There is nothing in the world like cashmere.

    世界上沒有任何東西能夠與喀什米爾羊絨相比。

  • I mean, there are other precious fibers

    世界上雖然有其他珍貴的纖維

  • or other fine fibers, but cashmere has great properties.

    或是其他精緻的纖維,但是喀什米爾有它獨一無二的特性。

  • It's very strong. It is very warm.

    他非常強韌,非常保暖。

  • It's very soft, and you can make from it

    非常柔軟,而且他可以製程任何東西

  • anything from a very thick, robust,

    從非常厚實、堅韌

  • almost rug-like product through to

    像是地毯的產品

  • very fine, wispy, cloud-like,

    到非常精緻、輕柔、如雲朵般

  • very, very subtle pieces.

    非常非常精巧的產品

  • There are other precious fibers out there,

    世界上還有其他珍貴的纖維

  • there are other fibers that are as fine,

    也有像喀什米爾羊毛般精緻的纖維

  • but we can't do as much with them.

    但可應用之處不多。

Cashmere is one of the most

喀什米爾羊絨是世界上

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為什麼羊絨這麼貴|這麼貴? (Why Cashmere Is So Expensive | So Expensive)

  • 73 3
    Liang Chen 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
影片單字