Name: 《經濟學人》快時尚的真實成本 (The true cost of fast fashion | The Economist)
Uploaded: 2019-03-23T21:01:20.000Z
Duration: 6 min 51 s

基礎被動語態

80 billion items are manufactured every year.

每年有八百億的衣物被製造出來。

程度副詞

We're putting too much product out there, most of that product ending up in landfill.

我們製造太多產品了，這些產品大部分會成為垃圾堆。

So-called "fast fashion" allows consumers to buy more, but they're wearing these garments less often and disposing of them at an unprecedented rate.

所謂的「快時尚」讓消費者買得更多，但消費者穿這些衣服的次數較少，並以前所未有的速度丟棄這些衣服。

這是衣櫃廢棄衣物最後停留的地方。

Savanna Rags is a clothes recycling and processing plant in Nottingham, England.

Savanna Rags 是英國諾丁漢的一間衣服回收處理場。

They process discarded clothes from recycling bins around the country.

廠區人員負責處理全國垃圾箱中被丟棄的衣服。

Mohammed Patel has been running this plant for 12 years.

Mohammed Patel 已經營這間工廠 12 年了。

Majority of it will go to Africa and Dubai.

大部分的衣物會被送往非洲及杜拜。

We send some accross to Europe and we have a couple of buyers here in the UK that buy from us also.

我們會將某部分的衣物送往歐洲，英國這邊也有一些買家會跟我們購買。

Globally, sorting plants like this only deal with around 25% of discarded clothes.

以全球來說，像這樣的衣物整理廠只能處理 25% 的廢棄衣服。

In Britain, more than 300,000 tonnes of clothes end up in landfill every year.

在英國，每年有超過 30 萬噸的衣服會成為垃圾堆。

It's the fastest growing category of waste in the country.

這是國內垃圾種類中成長最快的類別。

Expanding middle classes in emerging markets are hungry for more and cheaper fashion.

新興市場中持續擴大的中產階級渴望著更多更便宜的時尚。

It's estimated that by 2050, global clothing sales could more than triple.

預計在 2050 年，全球衣服銷售將增至三倍。

One of the things that we've noticed is that the quality of the actual material being used has gone down.

其中一個我們注意到的點是拿來做衣服的材料品質下降。

We're now having to process a lot more just to get the same quality of goods that we can sell on.

我們現在要處理更多的東西只為了獲得可以拿來銷售的同品質商品。

But how can the fashion industry continue to grow while addressing the environmental need for people to buy fewer clothes?

然而流行產業是如何在這個提倡人們應少買衣服以保護環境的社會中持續成長呢？

New York fashionista Ijeoma Kola is less about rags and more about the latest runway fashions.

紐約時尚部落客 Ijeoma Kola 喜歡最流行的時裝而非舊衣。

Because I post often on Instagram, there is a little bit of pressure to have a new outfit.

因為我常在 Instagram 上發佈穿搭貼文，所以在擁有新服裝上有點壓力。

Her stylish posts and clothing tips are attracting a big online following.

她的流行貼文以及穿搭技巧吸引非常多的網路追蹤者。

I found myself before buying a lot of clothes.

我發現自己以前會買很多的衣服。

I usually bought clothes from H&M and Zara, or ASOS.

我通常會去 H&M、Zara 或 ASOS 買衣服。

So if you're looking for trendy pieces, they have them, they're pretty affordable.

但如果你想找最流行的服裝他們也有，價格也不貴。

Today she's looking for a new outfit for a swanky industry event.

今天她在為了一場時尚業的活動尋找一套新衣。

But this store doesn't sell clothes, it rents them.

但這間店不賣衣服，只租衣服。

Ijeoma has been championing Rent the Runway's radical new approach to high-end fashion.

Ijeoma 支持 Rent the Runway 這個全新的方法去獲得尖端時尚。

Rent the Runway is a clothing borrowing service which allows you to rent clothes for either 4 or 8 days at a time.

Rent the Runway 是一個衣服租借服務，這個服務能讓你一次租四或八天。

You are cycling through clothing as fast, but you're borrowing it with other people, so other people get to wear the same things that you're wearing as well.

你快速地反覆尋找衣服但你其實是跟他人租借衣服，所以別人也可以穿你身上的那件衣服。

On average, only 20% of clothes are worn on a regular basis.

平均來說只有 20% 的衣服是日常生活在穿的。

Rent the Runway's mission is to change consumers' relationship with the clothes they wear.

Rent the Runway 的使命是要改變消費者與他們穿著的衣服之間的關係。

Rather than buying something only getting to wear it maybe three or four times before you decide to give it away or throw it away, an item is worn a lot more when it is being shared across different people.

與其買一些在決定送出或捐出之前只穿三或四次的衣服，一件衣服分享給不同人穿能被穿到更多次。

Rent the Runway only has a couple of flagship stores, but online it's a giant and it's disrupting the fashion industry.

Rent the Runway  只有一些旗艦店，但在網路上是一大巨頭，並且正騷動著時尚產業。

To date, there are 10 million members, so it comes with a hefty laundry bill.

至今已有 1000 萬名會員，連帶也衍生出可觀的洗衣費。

The company claims to have the largest dry cleaning facility in the world.

這間公司宣稱擁有世界最大的烘衣設備。

Rent the Runway is getting more mileage out of items of clothing, it's also helping to tackle an increasing throwaway culture.

Rent the Runway 正從衣服品項上獲得好處，他們也在幫助解決這個逐漸增長的用完即扔文化。

But the last thing clothing brands want is for consumers to buy less.

但這間衣服品牌的最後一項使命是讓消費者買少一點。

Except perhaps, for Patagonia, an outdoor apparel brand which sent shock waves through the industry with this full-page advert in the New York Times on Black Friday 2011.

或許除了 Patagonia 這間衣服品牌，在 2011 年黑色星期五的紐約時報上刊登的全頁廣告對時尚業帶來了衝擊。

Here in Amsterdam, Ryan Gellert heads up Patagonia's operations in Europe and the Middle East.

在阿姆斯特丹這裡，Ryan Gellert 帶領 Patagonia 在歐洲以及中東的營運。

The apparel industry has become one of the most polluting in the world; as an industry, we're creating product that people don't need by stimulating demand and creating this sense that if you don't buy it now, it's not going to be available.

衣服業已成為世界上最污染的產業，在這個產業裡，我們正透過刺激需求並創造一個如果你不買以後就得不到的感覺去製造人們不需要的產品。

There's this race to the bottom on price and quality that is an unsustainable model.

這是個在價格與品質上的逐底競爭，是個不可持續發展的模式。

Patagonia's philosophy flies in the face of fast fashion to buy once, buy well, and mend clothing for a longer lifespan.

Patagonia 的理念與快時尚相悖，他們主張買一次、買好的、將衣服品質改良以延長衣物壽命。

So maybe doing that in Amsterdam and then figuring out how to share it elsewhere.

或許我們可以在阿姆斯特丹實行這個理念然後找找看如何分享到其他地方。

With the largest single repair facility in North America and mobile mending services around Europe and America, Patagonia's anti-fashion environmental message has resonated with people who buy into their vision.

在北美有著最大的單一修繕設備以及遍布在歐洲及美國的行動修補服務，Patagonia 的反流行時尚環境宣言已與相信他們理念的人產生共鳴。

Helping our customers keep their product in use longer was also one of the original big ideas in Patagonia.

幫助消費者保留他們的產品久一點也是 Patagonia 最初的重要理念之一。

Between 2008 and 2014, profits reportedly tripled.

據報導在 2008 年與 2014 年之間，Patagonia 的獲利增至三倍。

Patagonia claims it generates revenue of nearly 1 billion dollars a year.

Patagonia 宣稱他們一年產生的收入將近十億。

Its hope is to inspire other brands to tackle the environmental impact of fast fashion.

他們的期望是去激發其他品牌對抗快時尚帶來的環境衝擊。

If I had the opportunity to sit down with leaders from some of the bigger fast fashion companies in the world, what I'd really encourage them to understand the full impact of their supply chains.

如果我有機會與世界某些較大的快時尚品牌領導人坐下來對談，我真的想鼓勵他們去了解供應鏈對環境產生的所有影響。

Patagonia provides a glimpse into a more enlightened approach to fashion.

Patagonia 讓我們見識到流行產業可以實行的一個更進步的方式。

For Mohammed, the boom in fast fashion has been good for business, but this throw-away culture sits uncomfortably with him.

對 Mohammed 來說，快時尚的急速發展對公司經營來說很有幫助，但用完即丟的文化讓他非常不舒服。

Sometimes it's soul-destroying, because you come to work and you just think, is this what we've come to, that the human race all we think about is dispose of things.

有時候這很枯燥乏味，因為你來工作就會得出一個結論，是不是整個人類都有物品用過即丟的想法。

The environmental impact on the planet is just colossal, and I don't think we as the human race realize what it is that we're doing just for the sake of wearing a pair of jeans.

快時尚對地球的環境衝擊是非常巨大的且我不認為身為人類的我們知道自己正在做什麼，只為了穿上一件牛仔褲。

In order to tackle the throw-away culture, brands and consumers need to change their behaviors.

為了要解決用過即丟的文化，品牌及消費者需要改變他們的行為。

Industry pioneers are proving that there are viable business opportunities in selling less—others need to follow suit.

產業先鋒正在證明賣得少也有許多可行的商機存在，其他人也該跟著仿效。

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《經濟學人》快時尚的真實成本 (The true cost of fast fashion | The Economist)

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