to figure out what's behind

刨根問底

one of New York's most iconic noodle dishes,

紐約最具代表性的麵食之一。

the famous hand-pulled lamb noodles.

著名的手拉羊肉面。

- I'm very excited to check it out, so let's go.

- 我很想去看看，那就去吧。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

- Lamb is something that we use a lot in our dishes,

- 羊肉是我們在菜餚中經常使用的東西。

not just in our spicy cumin lamb dishes.

不僅僅是在我們的辣味孜然羊肉菜中。

Lamb is also used in other things like our

羊肉還被用於其他方面，比如我們的

lamb pao mo soup and other lamb, you know,

羊肉寶媽湯和其他羊肉，你懂的。

there's like an iron pot lamb that's very popular in Xi'an.

有像西安很流行的鐵鍋羊肉。

There's just a lot of lamb.

只是羊肉很多。

There's a Muslim population there

那裡有一個穆斯林人口

and that's historically because of the trade,

而這在歷史上是因為貿易。

the Silk Road, and different people coming through.

絲綢之路，以及不同的人通過。

We take a small part of that tradition.

我們從這一傳統中抽取一小部分。

We don't cook Halal food.

我們不做清真食品。

We do have heavy influences from that type of cuisine.

我們確實受到那類美食的影響很大。

So, we use a lot of lamb.

所以，我們用了很多羊肉。

Working well with the spices, there's like a

與香料配合得好，就像有一個

new flavor-- - It really stands up to it.

It's not chicken. If it were just on chicken

這不是雞肉。如果只是吃雞肉的話

then you would taste just the spice.

那麼你就會嚐到只是香料。

- It was you and your dad that started

- 是你和你爸爸開始的

the business together, right?

一起做生意，對吧？

- He started the business back in 2005.

- 他早在2005年就開始創業。

I was still in school, and then after four years,

我還在上學，然後過了四年。

I joined the business because I just thought

我加入這個行業是因為我覺得

(there's)such an opportunity here.

這裡有這樣一個機會。

- Alright, Jason. We are dying to know.

- 好吧，傑森。我們很想知道。

What is behind your lamb dishes?

你的羊肉菜背後是什麼？

- I'm going to ask our central kitchen chef, Mr. Wang,

- 我想請問一下我們中央廚房的王師傅。

to help us cut this apart.

來幫助我們把這一切分開。

He's very familiar with all of our operations here,

他對我們這裡所有的業務都很熟悉。

and he still personally cuts a lot of the meat himself.

而且他還親自切了很多肉自己吃。

- Jason, I notice we're keeping all these

- 傑森，我注意到我們保持所有這些

nice kind of fattier bits here.

很好的那種比較胖的位子在這裡。

- That's a great question and a lot of

- 這是一個很好的問題，也是很多的

our guests actually are probably going to be like,

我們的客人其實很可能會像。

"Aw man, they use the so much gristle and crap?"

"啊，夥計，他們用了那麼多的磨合劑和垃圾？"

It's just because you need that fat in order to,

只是因為你需要這些脂肪才能。

when you're cooking on a wok, everything's going to shrink.

當你在鍋上做飯的時候，所有的東西都會縮水。

All the fat's going to turn to oil,

所有的脂肪都會變成油。

and you really want that lamb oil

你真的想要羊油

in order to give it that flavor.

為了讓它有這種味道。

- Do you predominately only use lamb shoulder?

- 你主要只用羊肩肉嗎？

- Any parts of lamb, honestly, that has

- 羊肉的任何部分，說實話，有

that mixture of fat and lean meat.

脂肪和瘦肉的混合物。

- [Ben] It really does give you that kind of

- [本]它真的給你那種。

natural balance of a decent amount of fat,

自然平衡的適量脂肪。

but it's also a hard working muscle.

但它也是一塊勤勞的肌肉。

You get a lot of flavor out of it.

你會得到很多的味道。

- We're just going to marinate this a little bit.

- 我們只是要醃製這個一點點。

It helps to tenderize the meat.

它有助於肉質的嫩化。

It gets some of the unpleasant gaminess out of it,

這讓一些不愉快的遊戲性消失了。

but we just have to give it a better texture

但我們只需要給它一個更好的質感。

as well when we're cooking it.

以及當我們在烹調它。

- What's going to go in our marinade?

- 我們的滷水裡要放什麼？

- Salt, cooking wine. We have starch here and some oil.

- 鹽，料酒。我們這裡有澱粉和一些油。

Looks like we have enough lamb for our dish later.

看來以後我們的羊肉夠做菜了。

Alright, we're going to bring it over to our store

好吧，我們要把它帶到我們的商店去

here that's attached to our central kitchen.

這裡是連接到我們的中央廚房。

We going to cook this in our wok,

我們要在我們的鍋裡煮這個。

and then we're going to do the noodles,

然後我們要做麵條。

and you know, it's lunchtime.

你知道，這是午餐時間。

Cool, let's do it.

酷，我們開始吧。

(upbeat music)

(歡快的音樂)

We just heat the wok up really hot.

我們只是把炒鍋加熱到很熱。

- [Ben] So, that's like already sizzling hot

- [本]所以，這就像已經炙手可熱了。

within like seven seconds.

在七秒內。

First thing in is the meat, give some of that fat

首先是肉，給點脂肪吧

to render down and crisp up.

以渲染下來，清脆起來。

- The oil that we added before doesn't give it that flavor.

- 我們之前加的油並沒有給它帶來那種味道。

So, really, the oil from the fat

所以，真的，從脂肪的油

will be able to achieve that.

將能實現這一點。

Right now, Wang's adding the chili oil.

眼下，王先生正在添加辣椒油。

That's the house made chili oil that we use.

我們用的就是家裡做的辣椒油。

- It's not a competitive thing like in New York

- 不像在紐約那樣競爭激烈。

where people are like militant about their favorite pizza

在那裡，人們就像好戰的他們最喜歡的比薩餅。

joint or anything like that is it?

聯合或類似的東西，是嗎？

- It's very, very competitive.

- 它的競爭非常非常激烈。

It's very competitive.

它的競爭非常激烈。

Like in China, your family name on the chili oil.

就像在中國，你的姓氏在辣椒油上。

You'll have a picture of your ancestor on the bottle.

瓶子上會有你祖先的照片。

You can go to the Chinese grocery stores and you'll see.

你可以去中國的雜貨店，你會看到。

If you go to the dining restaurant,

如果你去餐飲店。

you're gonna see a lot of, like a huge menu.

你會看到很多，像一個巨大的菜單。

You're like wondering, "How do they ever cook

你就像在想，"他們是怎麼做飯的

all these items, right?"

所有這些項目，對嗎？"

"Do they ever cook all these items?"

"他們有沒有煮過這些東西？"

They probably don't get requests for a lot of them

他們可能沒有收到很多的請求。

very often, but it's important for Chinese chefs

但對中國廚師來說，這很重要。

to typically have a large menu.

以典型的大菜單。

To show that they can do everything.

以示自己無所不能。

- I never even thought about why a Chinese menu

- 我從來沒有想過為什麼會有中式菜單

would be long. Much less, that it is a point of pride.

會很長。更不會，這是一個值得驕傲的點。

It's like do you have people come in and by like,

這就像你有 人進來，由喜歡。

"Can I get some pork lo mein?"

"能不能給我來點豬肉滷味？"

- We, still get some of those.

- 我們，還是有一些的。

Some people who ask for french fries.

一些要求吃薯條的人。

Some people ask for chicken wings.

有人要求吃雞翅。

I think thankfully because we're in a big city,

我想幸虧我們在大城市裡。

and we do have a lot of exposure to different cuisines.

而我們確實有很多機會接觸到不同的美食。

So, people sort of understand.

所以，大家算是明白了。

How do you measure up with the food

你是怎麼衡量食物的

that's actually in Xi'an, right?

那其實是在西安，對嗎？

That's another sort of question,

這是另一種問題。

and I'm very confident about it

我對它很有信心

because the thing is you can't find this food in Xi'an.

因為問題是你在西安找不到這種食物。

When I say that it almost seems counterintuitive

我說這話的時候幾乎是反常的

like Jason are sort of admitting your food is not authentic?

像Jason一樣承認你的食物不正宗？

What is authentic?

什麼是正宗？

Is it authentic because like, well, I'm from there.

是正宗的，因為就像，嗯，我從那裡。

I cook food that's with that taste profile.

我做的食物都是這種口味的。

If you mean authentic meaning you can find the same food

如果你指的是正宗的意思，你可以找到同樣的食物。

in any of these stalls that you walk into

在任何一個你走進的攤位上。

you can find the same taste?

你能找到同樣的味道？

Then I guess we're not authentic.

那我想我們不是正宗的。

I'm not so much worried about knowledge.

我不太擔心知識的問題。

You know, I want people to know what is in Xi'an.

你知道，我想讓人們知道西安有什麼。

I want people to travel over there and then come back

我想讓人們去那邊旅遊，然後再回來。

and be like, "Oh, okay, this is different, but you know what

並像，"哦，好吧，這是不同的，但你知道嗎？

I can appreciate the differences."

我能體會到其中的差別。"

- It's your interpretation,

- 這是你的解釋。

and that's what makes it interesting.

這就是它的有趣之處。

- It is true to like your family. It's what you ate.

- 喜歡你的家人是真的。是你吃了什麼。

It's true to like the trade routes that went through there.

喜歡經過那裡的貿易路線是真的。

Is it more important that it's authentic?

是真品更重要嗎？

Or is it more important that it's like honest,

還是像誠實更重要。

and that you're trying to do something good.

而且你是想做一些好事。

- Yeah, is it more important that it taste good?

- 是啊，好吃更重要嗎？

At the end of the day, do you enjoy it?

到了最後，你喜歡嗎？

I'm gonna pull some noodles.

我去拉點麵條。

This is just dough. Nothing special about it.

這只是麵糰。沒什麼特別的。

So, what I'm doing is kinda pulling on it.

所以，我所做的是挺拉風的。

At the same time, hitting it.

同時，打。

Just kind of slap it on the surface like that.

就這樣在表面上拍了一下。

Overall, you just rip it in half.

總的來說，你只要把它撕成兩半就行了。

And that's the noodle.

這就是麵條。

Usually, I'm just gonna drop them right in the water

通常，我只是要去把他們扔在水裡的權利

because they can't stay too long after being pulled.

因為他們被拉走後不能停留太久。

Do you guys wanna give it a go?

你們想試試嗎？

He's pushing a little hard, look like he's a,

他有點用力，看起來像個。

- Pushing a little hard, but he's

- 逼得有點緊，但他的。

- But, he's pretty fast. He's pretty fast.

- 但是，他的速度相當快。他的速度相當快。

- Look at that, look at that, wow.

- 看看，看看，哇。

Great motions, actually.

其實是偉大的運動。

- Well enough?

- 夠不夠好？

- Looks like he's, no it looks perfect. Yeah.

- 看起來他，不，它看起來很完美。是啊。

- Wow.

- 哇哦

- Looks like he's been doing this for a while actually.

- 看起來他其實已經做了一段時間了。

Oh, no. (laughs)

哦，不。（笑）

So, we're gonna take the middle part like a string cheese,

所以，我們要把中間的部分像奶酪串一樣。

and just rip it in the middle.

然後把它從中間撕開。

- Look at the landing. He's stuck the landing.

- 你看登陸處他卡住了落地。

- This is awesome. I'm never going home.

- 這是真棒。我永遠不會回家。

(laughs)

（笑）

- This is fun as hell.

- 這是很有趣的地獄。

- So, it looks pretty good.

- 所以，它看起來很不錯。

We fished these out, and they are ready to go.

我們把這些東西撈出來，就可以走了。

Freshly cooked lamb from before.

之前剛煮好的羊肉。

I got the cabbage, here, and it's blanched.

我買了捲心菜，在這裡，它的焯水。

And we've got some scallions, and chive flowers,

我們還有一些蔥，還有韭菜花。

and celery mix.

和芹菜混合。

And then, we are gonna dress it with the

然後，我們要把它和...

most important things: the noodle sauce and the chili oil.

最重要的東西：麵醬和辣椒油。

(upbeat techno)

(歡快的電子樂)

- That is so good!

- 這真是太好了！

I love this dish!

我喜歡這道菜！

- Oh, man.

- 哦，夥計。

- Yeah, the chili oil is so nice.

- 是啊，辣椒油真好。

- We're super generous with the cumin,

- 我們對小茴香超級大方。

but it just works in this case.

但它只是在這種情況下工作。

- The shoulder is the perfect cut for it too.

- 肩部的剪裁也很適合。

It has texture. It's gonna go well with the noodles.

它有質感。會和麵條搭配的很好。

But, because there's fat to it too,

但是，因為也有脂肪。

it stands up to that spice.

它經得起這種香料的考驗。

Even for this, you see the imperfections and you can tell

即使是這樣，你也能看到不完美的地方，你也能知道。

that somebody actually made it which is awesome.

有人真的做了它，這是真棒。

That's what you want out of food.

這就是你想要的食物。

- Every part of this dish is made by our own recipes.

- 這道菜的每一個環節都是我們自己的配方做出來的。

And the noodles are made to order

還有，麵條都是自己做的

because that's the only way it can be made.

因為只有這樣才有可能。

I wish I could make the noodles ahead of time.

我希望能提前做好麵條。

That would save a lot of trouble.

那就省去了很多麻煩。

It's one of the special things about us though.

不過這也是我們的一個特別之處。

So, it's something I probably wouldn't change.

所以，這一點我可能不會改變。

- It's perfect for New York.

- 這對紐約來說是完美的。

You order your food.

你點菜吧

You get it in three to five minutes. It's affordable.

三到五分鐘就能搞定。這是負擔得起的。

But, like, all of this stuff is actually made here.

但是，像，所有這些東西實際上是在這裡做的。

- If you guys ever travel to like any part of Asia

- 如果你們去亞洲的任何地方旅行的話

everything's so fast, and it's just any minute

瞬息萬變，轉瞬即逝

that you waste it's like lost money, pretty much, right?

你浪費了它就像失去了錢，相當多，對不對？

For the guest or for your yourself or whatnot.

給客人或給你自己或什麼的。

That sort of mentality was like something

這種心態就像什麼

even back in the days when we were in Flushing.

即使是在我們在法拉盛的日子裡。

We didn't have a PR system.

我們沒有公關係統。

You had to memorize all the totals.

你必須記住所有的總數。

For example, if you ordered two dishes,

比如說，如果你點了兩個菜。

I had to remember it was you that ordered those two dishes.

我得記得那兩個菜是你點的。

And add together the math.

並加在一起計算。

And I'll be like you were before him.

我會像你在他之前一樣。

You know, it's crazy.

你知道，這很瘋狂。

But, that was kind of the culture

但是，那是一種文化

that our business was built on.

我們的業務是建立在。

- So much fun to learn about

- 學習的樂趣真多

a serious New York City iconic dish.

一道嚴肅的紐約市標誌性菜餚。

- I appreciate you guys coming, and you know,

- 我很感謝你們的到來，你知道的。

you guys were really good with the noodles.

你們的麵條真的很不錯。

That was the most surprising part of it all.

這是最讓人驚訝的地方。

I was like you know, you guys are gonna be pretty good

我想你知道，你們會是相當不錯的。

in the meat rooms, but I don't know about the noodles part.

在肉室，但我不知道麵條的部分。

But, wow, you guys are good.

不過，哇，你們真厲害。

- What time do I show up for work tomorrow?

- 我明天幾點來上班？

- Let's get here at nine, I think?

- 我想，我們九點到這裡吧？

- Okay, cool. This is better than the Meat Hook.

- 好吧，酷。這比肉鉤更好。

- The commute shouldn't be that bad. (laughs)

- 通勤應該不會那麼糟糕。（笑）

- If you enjoyed this video, maybe you will also enjoy

- 如果你喜歡這個視頻，也許你也會喜歡。

some of the videos from our good friends over at Vox.

一些視頻 從我們的好朋友在Vox。

- [Narrator] Your oven to 350 degrees

- [旁白]你的烤箱到350度

is sort of a basic requirement for baking in America.

算是美國烘焙的基本要求。

Our ovens even do it automatically as we turn them on.

我們的烤箱甚至會在開啟時自動完成。

But, have you ever stopped and asked yourself.

但是，你有沒有停下來問過自己。