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I was born and raised in Dakar, Senegal,
譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Jack Zhang
and through a combination of accidents and cosmic justice,
我在塞內加爾的達卡出生和長大,
became a chef in the US.
經過了許多意外與宇宙正義的結合,
(Laughter)
我在美國成了一名主廚。
When I first arrived in New York,
(笑聲)
I began working in these restaurants -- different types of restaurants --
當我初次抵達紐約時,
from French bistro to Italian,
我開始在一些餐廳工作, 各種不同的餐廳,
global ethnic to modern American.
從法國小酒館到義大利餐館,
At the time,
從全球民族餐廳到現代美式餐廳。
New York was already well-established as a food capital of the world.
那時,
However ...
紐約已經成為了世界的食物首都。
with the exception of a few West African and Ethiopian mom-and-pop eateries,
然而,
there was no such thing as African cuisine in the entire city.
除了少數西非和衣索比亞的 小型飯館之外,
Early in my life,
在整個城市中並沒有所謂的非洲菜。
I was influenced by Senegal's first president,
在我人生的前期,
Léopold Sédar Senghor,
我受到塞內加爾第一任總統
nicknamed, "the poet president,"
利奧波德·塞達爾·桑戈爾的影響,
who talked about a new humanism,
他的綽號叫「詩人總統」,
a universal civilization,
他談到新人文主義,
in which all cultures would come together around a communal table as equals,
全體的文明,
each bringing its own beautiful contribution to share.
在這種文明中,所有文化能平等地 圍繞著一張共有的桌子而坐,
He called it "the rendezvous of giving and receiving."
每個文化帶著它自己的 美麗貢獻來分享。
That concept resonated with me,
他稱之為「施與受的幽會」。
and it has guided my career path.
那概念讓我產生了共鳴,
After years of working in restaurants,
它一直引導著我職涯的道路。
I yearned for my work to have a deeper impact
在餐廳工作多年之後,
that would go beyond the last meal I had served.
我很渴望能做具有 更深刻影響力的工作,
I wanted to give back, both to New York --
影響力能超過我端上的上一道菜。
the city that allowed me the opportunity to follow my calling --
我想要回饋,回饋給紐約,
but also to my origins and ancestors in Senegal.
提供我機會讓我能追隨使命的城市,
I wanted to contribute to that universal civilization
也回饋給我在 塞內加爾的根源及祖先。
Senghor had described.
我想要對桑戈爾所描述的全體文明
But I didn't know how to make a measurable impact
做出貢獻。
as a cook and writer.
但我不知道身為廚師及作家,
While I was writing my first cookbook,
要如何做出重大影響。
I often traveled to different regions of Senegal for research.
當我正在撰寫我的第一本食譜時,
During one of those trips,
我常旅行到塞內加爾的 不同地區去做研究。
in the remote, southeast region of Kédougou
在那些旅程當中,有一次,
I rediscovered an ancient grain called fonio
是前往凱杜古東南方的偏遠地區,
that had all but disappeared from the urban Senegalese diet.
我重新發現了一種古早穀物, 叫做非洲全小米,
It turns out that fonio had been cultivated
它什麼都有,但卻從都市的 塞內加爾飲食中消失了。
for more than five thousand years
結果,非洲全小米已經被耕作了
and is probably the oldest cultivated cereal in Africa.
超過五千年,
Once a popular grain on much of the continent,
可能是非洲最古老的農耕穀類植物。
fonio was grown all the way to ancient Egypt,
它曾經是這塊大陸上 大部份地方的熱門穀物,
where archaeologists found grains inside pyramids' burial grounds.
被一路種植到古埃及,
Today it is mostly cultivated in the western part of the Sahel region,
考古學家在古埃及的金字塔中 發現有穀物被埋在地下。
from Senegal to Mali,
現今,它大多被種植在 薩赫爾地區的西部,
Burkina Faso,
從塞內加爾到馬利、
Togo, Nigeria.
布吉納法索、
The Sahel region is that semiarid area south of the Sahara desert
多哥、奈及利亞。
that extends from the Atlantic in the west to the Red Sea in the east.
薩赫爾地區是半乾旱的區域, 在撒哈拉沙漠南邊,
I became more interested in this grain
從西邊的太西洋延伸到東邊的紅海。
that was deemed worth taking to the afterlife by early Egyptians.
我對這種穀物變得更感興趣了,
As I continued my research,
古埃及人認為它是值得帶到來世的。
I found out that fonio was actually --
隨著我繼續進行研究,
wherever it was cultivated --
我發現非洲全小米其實
there was always some myth, or some superstition connected to it.
──不論它被種在哪裡──
The Dogon,
總是與某種神話或是迷信有所連結。
another great culture in Mali,
多貢,
called it "po,"
馬利的另一個偉大文化,
or, "the seed of the universe."
稱它為「po」,
In that ancient culture's mythology,
意思是「宇宙的種子」。
the entire universe sprouted from a seed of fonio.
在古文化的神話中,
Aside from its purported mystical properties,
整個宇宙是從一顆 非洲全小米種子萌生出來的。
fonio is a miracle grain in many aspects.
除了傳說神秘特性之外,
It is nutritious,
非洲全小米在許多層面上 也是種奇蹟穀物。
particularly rich in methionine and cysteine,
它很有營養,
two amino acids that are deficient in most other major grains:
特別富含甲硫胺酸與半胱胺酸,
barley, rice or wheat to name a few.
大部份的主要穀物 都缺少這兩種胺基酸:
In addition,
大麥、米、小麥是其中幾個例子。
fonio cultivation is great for the environment.
此外,
It tolerates poor soil
耕種非洲全小米對環境有益。
and needs very little water,
它能容忍貧脊土壤,
surviving where nothing else will grow.
需要的水也非常少,
As a chef,
能在沒有其他植物 能存活的地方生存。
what first struck me was its delicate taste and its versatility.
身為一名主廚,
Similar to couscous,
首先引起我注意的是 它的細緻口味以及多變性。
fonio has a delicious, nutty and earthy flavor.
和非洲古斯米類似,
It can be turned into salad,
非洲全小米的味道很可口、 有堅果味及土味。
served as noodles,
它可以用來做沙拉、
used in baking
做麵條、
or simply as a substitute for any other grains in your favorite recipes.
用來烘焙、
I am happy to share some of my fonio sushi and sweet potato sushi
或是很單純地用來取代 你最愛的食譜中的其他穀物。
with some of you right now.
我很高興現在能與各位分享 我的一些非洲全小米壽司
(Audience) Oh!
以及甘薯壽司。
(Applause)
(觀眾)喔!
And okra.
(掌聲)
(Audience murmurs)
還有秋葵。
In Kédougou
(觀眾低語)
it is also nicknamed "ñamu buur,"
在凱杜古,
which means "food for royalty,"
它還有個暱稱叫「ñamu buur」,
and it's served for guests of honor.
意思是「皇室食物」,
Located at the border with Guinea and Mali,
它是為貴賓所準備的。
Kédougou first strikes visitors with its stunning vistas
凱杜古位在幾內亞和馬利的邊界,
and views of the Fouta Djallon Mountains.
它給訪客的第一印象是絕色美景
Sadly, it is also one of the poorest regions of Senegal.
以及富塔賈隆山脈的景觀。
Because of desertification and lack of job prospects,
令人難過的是,它也是 塞內加爾最貧窮的地區之一。
much of Kédougou's young population has left.
因為沙漠化以及缺乏工作遠景,
They chose the deadly path of migration
凱杜古大部份的人口都離開了。
in search of "better" opportunities.
他們選擇遷涉這條死亡之路,
Often,
為了尋求「更好」的機會。
they risk their lives trying to reach Europe.
通常,
Some leave by crossing the Sahara desert.
他們冒著生命危險試圖前往歐洲。
Others end up on inadequate wooden canoes
有些人是穿越撒哈拉沙漠離開,
in desperate attempts to reach Spain.
其他人則是靠著很不適合的獨木舟,
According to a recent "Guardian" article,
孤注一擲試圖前往西班牙。
by 2020 more that 60 million people from sub-Saharan Africa
根據近期「衛報」的一篇文章,
are expected to migrate
到 2020 年,撒哈拉以南的 非洲預期會有六千萬人
due to desertification.
因為沙漠化而遷涉。
This is the biggest global wave of migration since the Second World War,
這是第二次世界大戰之後 最大一波的全球遷涉,
and it's only set to grow.
且它只會增不會減。
So far this year,
今年目前,
more that 2,100 migrants have lost their lives
超過 2,100 名遷涉者
on their way to Europe.
在前往歐洲的路上喪命。
This is the reality of Kédougou
這就是凱杜古的現實,
and of much of the Sahel today.
且薩赫爾現今大多也是如此。
Scary future,
令人害怕的未來,
scarce food
稀少的食物,
and no opportunities to change their situation.
且沒有機會能改變他們的狀況。
If life in your village weren't so precarious,
如果你村子中的生活是這麼不安穩,
if there was a way to having enough food to get by,
如果有方法可以得到 足夠生存下去的食物,
or having a paying job --
或是找到一份有薪的工作──
if you and your sisters
如果你和你的姐妹
didn't have to spend 30 percent of their waking hours
不需要把 30% 醒著的時間
fetching water,
花在取水上,
if conditions were just a little more hospitable ...
如果條件只要能稍微好一點點……
could the solution be right here in our soil?
有沒有可能解決方案 就在我們的土壤中?
Could bringing fonio to the rest of the world
有沒有可能把非洲全小米 帶給全世界,
be the answer?
就是我們在找的答案?
Ancient grains are getting more popular,
古老的穀物越來越熱門,
and sales of gluten-free items are growing in the US --
且無麩質的東西在美國越賣越好──
16.4 percent since 2013,
2013 年銷售就成長了 16.4%,
making it a 23.3-billion-dollar industry.
讓它成為 233 億美元的產業。
How could fonio partake in this market share?
非洲全小米要如何參與這個市場?
There are many challenges in turning fonio into food.
要把非洲全小米轉為 食物,有許多挑戰。
Traditional processing is laborious and time-consuming,
傳統加工要耗很多人力和時間,
especially when compared to other grains.
相較於其他穀物更是劣勢。
Well, thankfully, technology has evolved.
謝天謝地,科技進化了。
And there are now machines
現在有機器
that can process fonio in a more efficient way.
可以用更有效率的方式 來做非洲全小米加工。
And as a matter of fact,
事實上,
a few years ago,
幾年前,
Sanoussi Diakité,
山諾西迪亞基泰,
a Senegalese engineer,
一位塞內加爾的工程師,
won a Rolex prize
贏得了勞力士獎,
for his invention of the first mechanized fonio processor.
得獎作品是他發明的第一台 機械化非洲全小米加工機。
Today, such machines are making life much easier for producers
現今,這類機器讓整個 塞內加爾地區的生產者
around the whole Sahel region.
能輕鬆許多。
Another challenge is the colonial mentality
另一個挑戰是殖民心理,
that what comes from the west is best.
覺得來自西方的才是最好的。
This tendency to look down on our own products
這種看輕我們自己產品的傾向,
and to see crops like fonio as simply "country peoples' food,"
只將非洲全小米這類作物 視為「鄉下人的食物」
therefore substandard,
覺得它不夠格的傾向,
explains why even though we don't produce wheat in Senegal traditionally,
說明了為什麼雖然 塞內加爾傳統不產小麥,
it is far easier to find baguettes or croissants in the streets of Dakar
在達卡街頭,要找到法式麵包 或可頌,遠比找到任何
than it is to find any fonio products.
非洲全小米產品要容易許多。
This same mindset popularized the overprocessed, leftover rice debris
同樣的心態導致過度加工剩餘的 稻米殘碎變得很普遍,
known as "broken rice,"
被稱為「壞掉的稻米」。
which was imported to Senegal from Indochina
它們是從印度支那 進口到塞內加爾的,
and introduced by the colonial French.
由殖民的法國人所引進。
Soon, broken rice became a key ingredient in our national dish,
沒多久,壞掉的稻米就成了 我們國家菜餚 thiéboudienne
thiéboudienne,
「魚肉燉飯」的主要成份,
replacing our own traditional, more nutritious African rice,
取代了我們自己傳統的 營養非洲稻米,
Oryza glaberrima.
Oryza glaberrima(非洲稻)。
Ironically, the same African rice despised at home
諷刺的是,在家鄉中 被鄙視的同樣非洲稻米,
was hailed abroad.
卻在國外受到歡迎。
Indeed, during the Atlantic slave trade,
的確,在跨大西洋奴隸貿易時,