the what, the where and the how

永續性是指

of what is caught.

捕撈什麼、在哪裡捕撈，

The who and the why are what's important to me.

以及怎麼去捕撈那東西。

I want to know the people behind my dinner choices.

對我來說，誰在捕撈以及為什麼捕撈是很重要的。

I want to know how I impact them.

我想知道在我的晚餐料理背後的那些人。

I want to know how they impact me.

我想知道我對他們會有怎樣的影響。

I want to know why they fish.

我想知道他們會如何影響我。

I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty

我想知道為什麼他們要捕魚。

for their living.

我想知道他們有多麼依賴大海的賜予

Understanding all of this enables us

藉以謀生。

to shift our perception of seafood

了解這些可以讓我們

away from a commodity

將我們對於海鮮的認知

to an opportunity

從單純的商品

to restore our ecosystem.

轉變為可以讓生態系統

It allows for us to celebrate the seafood

回復的機會。

that we're also so fortunate to eat.

了解這些可以讓我們慶幸

So what do we call this?

自己還能吃到海鮮。

I think we call it restorative seafood.

所以，我們該稱之為什麼呢？

Where sustainability is the capacity

我想我們該稱之為恢復性海鮮。

to endure and maintain,

永續性是指

restorative is the ability to replenish and progress.

可以持續並進行修補的能力，

Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system

恢復性則是指可以補充並增加的能力。

and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean

恢復性海鮮可以產生一個不停演化進展的系統，

as a resource,

並且讓海洋能夠

suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean

變成我們的一種資源，

and to encourage its resiliency.

促使我們去讓海洋得以補充，

It is a more hopeful, it is a more human,

增加它的恢復力。

and is a more useful way of understanding our environment.

這是一種比較有希望、比較人道，

Wallet guides -- standard issue

也比較有效的方式來了解我們的環境。

by lots in the marine conservation world --

消費指南 -- 是由

are very handy; they're a wonderful tool.

世界海洋保護組織所制定的標準 --

Green, yellow and red lists [of] seafood species.

相當方便，是很棒的工具書。

The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red,

用綠色、黃色和紅色來標示海鮮種類。

think twice about yellow.

很簡單的概念：買綠色的，不要買紅色的，

But in my mind, it's really not enough

想買黃色的時候要三思。

to just eat green list.

但是對我來說，

We can't sustain this without the measure of our success

只吃綠色的作法還是不夠。

really changing the fate of the species

如果無法確認這樣能成功的改變

in the yellow and the red.

那些黃色和紅色魚種的命運，

But what if we eat only in the green list?

就無法保持其永續性。

You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here --

但是如果我們只吃綠色標示的魚呢？

comes from sustainable stocks.

這裡有專門捕撈的黃鰭金槍魚 --

Pole caught -- no bycatch.

來自於永續性放養池中。

Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies.

專門捕撈 -- 不是被誤補的。

But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.

對於漁民而言很棒。可以賺很多錢。可以促進地方經濟。

What's the context of this meal?

但是它是海裡的獅子。它是頂層掠食者。

Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this?

這一餐的含意是什麼？

Do I do this three times a week?

我會到牛排館點一份16盎司的黃鰭金槍魚嗎？

I might still be in the green list,

我會每個禮拜吃三次嗎？

but I'm not doing myself, or you,

也許我仍然在吃綠色標示的魚，

or the oceans any favors.

但是對我、對你，

The point is that we have to have a context,

或是對海洋來說都沒有好處。

a gauge for our actions in all this.

重點是我們必須有一個概念，

Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health --

對於我們所做的事情要有一個標準。

antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy.

舉例來說：我聽說紅酒對健康很好 --

That's great! I love red wine!

有抗氧化劑和礦物質 -- 對心臟很好。

I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy.

太棒了！我愛紅酒！

Well, how many bottles is it

我要喝很多紅酒。我會變得非常健康。

before you tell me that I have a problem?

那麼，在我喝出問題之前，

Well folks, we have a protein problem.

我可以喝多少瓶？

We have lost this sensibility

朋友們，我們有個關於蛋白質的問題。

when it regards our food,

當它牽涉到食物時，

and we are paying a cost.

我們會失去對它的敏感度，

The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves.

而我們會因此付出代價。

We are hiding that cost

問題是，我們將這代價隱藏在這種風潮之下。

behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines.

我們將這代價

And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits.

隱藏在社會接受腰圍變粗的現象之後。

So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood

我們將這代價隱藏在巨大商業利益之後。

is that it really takes into account our needs.

所以，關於恢復性海鮮第一件事，

Restorative seafood might best be represented

是必須了解我們真正需要的數量。

not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman,

恢復性海鮮的最佳代表，

but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant.

不是大白鯊、海豚或Gordon海鲜食品，

Vegetables:

而是綠巨人。

they might yet save the oceans.

也就是各種蔬菜：

Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green.

它們也許能夠拯救海洋。

Well I'd like to respectfully submit

Sylvia 喜歡說藍色是新的綠色。

that broccoli green might then be the new blue.

那麼，我想尊敬地提出，

We must continue to eat

花椰菜的綠色也許是新的藍色。

the best seafood possible, if at all.

我們必須持續地

But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables.

去吃能吃到最好的海鮮。

The best part about restorative seafood though

但是我們也必須配著大量的蔬菜一起吃。

is that it comes on the half-shell

雖然這些恢復性海鮮最棒的吃法是

with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges.

用一半的貝殼將它裝盛上桌，

It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia

再配上一瓶TABASCO辣椒醬和檸檬片。

breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs

一份五盎司的鯛魚，

and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf

用 Dijon 芥末醬和烤得酥脆的土司碎片包覆著，

with crunchy, grilled broccoli

加上一份山核桃藜麥燴飯

so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside

搭配著酥脆的花椰菜，

with just a hint of chili flake.

外表是如此柔軟、甜美又帶點略焦的煙燻色澤，

Whooo!

再加上一點點的辣椒片。

This is an easy sell.

哇！

And the best part is all of those ingredients are available

這肯定會熱賣。

to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.

最棒的是這些材料

Jamie Oliver is campaigning

在每個家庭附近的超級市場都買得到。

to save America from the way we eat.

Jamie Oliver 正在發起一個

Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans

藉由改變飲食習慣的活動來拯救美國。

from the way we eat.

Sylvia 正在發起一個

There's a pattern here.

藉由飲食習慣的活動來拯救海洋。

Forget nuclear holocaust;

這是一個很好的典範。

it's the fork that we have to worry about.

先忘記核子戰爭的災難；

We have ravaged our Earth

我們要擔心的不只是那件事。

and then used the food that we've sourced

我們已經破壞了地球生態，

to handicap ourselves in more ways than one.

還將我們視為天然資源的食物

So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong.

在許多方面上困擾著我們自己。

And so I think it's time

所以我認為我們的飲食習慣是不對的。

we change what we expect from our food.

因此，我想現在正是時候

Sustainability is complicated

我們該改變我們對食物原有的看法。

but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand.

永續性是相當複雜的，

So let's start there.

但晚餐對我們來說是比較能掌握的部分，

There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems.

所以讓我們從這兒開始。

Dan Barber and Alice Waters

最近，針對綠化我們的飲食系統有相當大的進展。

are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution.

Dan Barber 和 Alice Waters

But green foods often represent

正在熱烈地提倡一種美味綠色食物革命。

a way for us to disregard

但是綠色食物常常會代表一種

the responsibility as eaters.

我們忽視了

Just because it comes from a green source

身為飲食者的責任。

doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate.

即使它來自於綠色資源，

We have eco-friendly shrimp.

並不代表我們可以隨便將它放到餐盤上。

We can make them; we have that technology.

我們有環保蝦。

But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet.

我們有技術可以生產環保蝦。

It doesn't work.

但是不可能出現那種提供環保蝦吃到飽自助餐廳。

Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part

這是不可行的。

of restorative seafood.

有益心臟健康的晚餐，

While we try to manage declining marine populations,

是恢復性海鮮重要的一部份。

the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood.

正當我們試著去控制海洋生物數量減少的問題時，

Studies say that tens of thousands

媒體還在建議大家多吃海鮮。

of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers

各種研究告訴大家，

might be around for another birthday

成千上萬的美國祖父母和父母們，

if we included more seafood.

可能可以活得更久，

That's a reward I am not willing to pass up.

只要我們多吃海鮮。

But it's not all about the seafood.

這是我不想錯過的好事。

It's about the way that we look at our plates.

但是這不單只是和海鮮有關。

As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do

這還關係著我們怎麼看待我們餐盤裡的食物。

is reduce the portion sizes on my plate.

身為一個廚師，對我來說最簡單的作法，

A couple things happened.

就是減少餐盤裡面食物的量。

I made more money.

幾件事情會隨之而生。

People started buying appetizers and salads,

我會賺更多的錢。

because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone.

人們開始購買開胃菜和沙拉，

People spent more time engaging in their meals,

因為他們知道只有主菜是吃不飽的。

engaging with each other over their meals.

人們會花更多時間在用餐上面，

People got, in short, more of what they came there for

藉由用餐而和別人有更多交流。

even though they got less protein.

簡單來說，人們來這兒會得到比他們想要的還更多，

They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal.

即使他們會攝取較少的蛋白質。

They got healthier. I made more money.

但他們在吃下各種餐點的過程中會獲得更多熱量。

This is great.

他們會更健康，我賺更多的錢。

Environmental consideration was served with every plate,

真是太棒了。

but it was served with a heaping mound

每道菜在上桌之前都先評估過對環境的影響，

of consideration for human interests at the same time.

同時，也考慮到許多

One of the other things we did

關於人們利益的部份。

was begin to diversify the species that we served --

我們所做的另外一件事是，

small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon.

將我們所提供的食材種類多樣化 --

Shellfish, mussels, oysters,

小銀魚、鯷魚、鯖魚、沙丁魚都很常見。

clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species.

貝類、蚌類、牡蠣、

We were directing tastes

蛤蠣、鯛魚、嘉魚 -- 這些都是常見的魚類。

towards more resilience, more restorative options.

我們讓這些口味

This is what we need to favor.

傾向比較有彈性、比較具有恢復性的選擇。

This is what the green list says.

這是我們應該偏好的選擇。

But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.

這才是綠色標示的意義。

But what of those big predators,

這也是我們開始讓環境恢復的方法。

those fashionable species,

至於那些大型掠食者，

that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier?

那些很流行的魚類，

Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you.

剛剛所提到在綠色標示中的金槍魚呢？

It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean,

如果你一定要吃的話，我有一份食譜可以提供給你。

so here we go.

它適用於各種海洋中的大魚，

Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish.

開始嚕。

Get a knife. Cut it into four portions.

首先拿一隻16盎司的大魚。

Put it on four plates.

用刀將它切成四份。

Mound up those four plates with vegetables

分別放到四個盤子上。

and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have,

把四個盤子都裝滿蔬菜，

light the candles and celebrate it.

然後開一瓶你現有最棒的勃艮第紅葡萄酒，

Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this.

點起蠟燭來慶祝。

Invite your friends and neighbors over

慶幸你有這個機會來吃它。

and repeat once a year,

邀請你的朋友或鄰居來享用，

maybe.

每年舉辦一次，

I expect a lot from food.

也許啦。

I expect health

我對食物的期待很多。

and joy and family and community.

我期望健康，

I expect that producing ingredients,

期望家庭與社區的歡樂。

preparing dishes and eating meals

我希望製作食材原料，

is all part of the communion of human interests.

準備餐盤和用餐這些事情，

I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook.

都是人們共同利益的一部分。

And he taught me very early on

我很幸運，我的父親是一位很棒的廚師。

about the privilege that eating represents.

他很早就開始教導我

I remember well the meals of my childhood.

飲食所代表的權利。

They were reasonable portions of protein

我記得很清楚兒時用餐的內容。

served with copious quantities of vegetables

總是有適量的蛋白質搭配著

and small amounts of starch, usually rice.

大量的蔬菜，

This is still how I largely eat today.

以及少量的澱粉，通常是米飯。

I get sick when I go to steakhouses.

這依然是我每天的主食。

I get the meat sweats.

每次去牛排館時，我就會不舒服。

It's like a hangover from protein.

我會出現肉類盜汗症。

It's disgusting.

那就像是蛋白質引起的宿醉，

But of all the dire news that you'll hear

感覺很噁心。

and that you have heard about the state of our oceans,

但是關於那些未來你將會聽見，

I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you

以及你現在已經聽見那些海洋不好的消息，

possibly the very worst of it

我有責任讓大家知道，

and that is this whole time

狀況可能會有多糟糕，

your mother was right.

也就是今天所說過的內容，

Eat your vegetables.

你的媽媽是正確的。

It's pretty straightforward.

多吃蔬菜吧。

So what are we looking for in a meal?

就是這麼簡單。

Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients

那麼，我們在食物中找尋的是什麼？

that are good for my body.

為了健康，我在找尋那些

For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt

對我身體有益的健康成份。

and sexy things that make things taste less like penance.

為了開心，我在找尋奶油、鹽、

For family, I'm looking for recipes

以及美味的東西，讓東西吃起來不會太糟糕。

that genuflect to my own personal histories.

為了家人，我在找尋合乎

For community though, we start at the very beginning.

我個人經歷的食譜。

There's no escaping the fact

為了社區，雖然我們已經開始努力了。

that everything we eat has a global impact.

事實上沒有例外，

So try and learn as best you can what that impact is

我們所吃的每一樣東西都有全球性的影響。

and then take the first step to minimize it.

所以，試著學習去了解這影響會是什麼，

We've seen an image of our blue planet,

然後開始試著去將它降到最低。

our world bank.

我們已經看見我們這個藍色的地球，

But it is more than just a repository of our resources;

這個世界銀行的景象。

it's also the global geography

但它不僅是我們自己的資源儲藏室;

of the communion we call dinner.

它也是全球在進行

So if we all take only what we need,

食物交流的地方。

then we can begin to share the rest,

所以如果我們只拿取我們所需要的部份，

we can begin to celebrate,

我們就可以將剩餘的和大家分享，

we can begin to restore.

我們可以開始去慶祝，

We need to savor vegetables.

資源也將得以恢復。

We need to savor smaller portions of seafood.

我們要多吃蔬菜，

And we need to save dinner.

我們要少吃一點海鮮。

Thank you.

我們必須將食物節省下來。

(Applause)

謝謝大家。