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Welcome back to The Gentleman's Gazette! Today's video is all about oxfords,
one of the most classic, timeless and versatile shoes a man can have.
What exactly is an oxford shoe?
Its history dates back centuries and if you want to learn all the details about it,
please check out our in-depth guide on our website, here.
So what exactly is an oxford?
First, it's defined by its quarters which are closed unlike a derby where they're open.
Then we have a vamp like here, the ankle is exposed.
Usually have a cap-toe and a center seam.
To learn more about the details of an oxford and how it differs from a derby or a blucher, please check out this video.
As explained, the oxford is just defined by these few characteristics and as such,
there are many different kinds out there.
Let's do a run through so you know exactly what is what.
The first and most important oxford you should have is the so-called cap-toe oxford,
and it's called that way because it has the cap-toe.
Basically, what you're looking for is a shoe with a cap-toe,
no broguing which means no hole perforations that's all black with neat lines and elegant last.
This is in fact, the very first black oxford I bought as a teenager
and I still have it today simply because it's so timeless and versatile.
The second shoe you can have is the plain oxford. Basically, it's like a cap-toe oxford,
it just lacks the cap-toe and sometimes you can see a medallion on them but then it's not a plain oxford anymore.
Usually, the plain oxford is favored in patent leather for evening shoes so you can wear it with a tuxedo.
So, how should you wear these oxfords? Like I said, first one should be in black.
If you have another cap-toe oxford, you can go with a solid, dark brown one that's going to be versatile, or burgundy.
Plain oxfords are best in patent leathers for evening wear and nothing else.
The third oxford on our list is the so-called wingtip oxford or brogue.
Basically, what that means, it has a wingtip in front that is like a W,
and we did an entire video just about this kind of style so, take a look at it, here.
The fourth kind of oxford is the so-called saddle oxford or saddle shoe.
It has the same closed lacing system but it has a middle strip of leather which is called a saddle.
It's particularly popular in the US, and outside the US, it never really caught on.
It's a more casual style, and I suggest you only wear it if you're big into Americana,
or you just want to create a preppy outfit. Otherwise, it looks out of place.
The next oxford is the so-called kiltie oxford.
It's very rare and it actually has an additional tongue on the outside
which looks a little bit like a kilt hence the name and it's sometimes seen on golf shoes.
Other than that, I really don't suggest you wear the kiltie unless you have a very specific look in mind
but it looks very special and unique and people will definitely ask you about it.
A very elegant form of the oxford is the so-called whole cut.
It's called that way because it is cut from one whole piece of leather.
Generally, it has just one center seam in the back and it's very popular these days.
The only problem with the whole cut is that if it's made out of a ready to wear shoe oftentimes,
it wrinkles more easily simply because it's one piece of leather that is shaped to your last
so keep that in mind when you invest in one.
The next step up from the whole cut is the so-called seamless oxford,
and all that means is that there's actually not a single seam
so you have to get a very good hide that adjusts to the entire last,
and that's why it's only something you often see in bespoke shoes.
Seamless and whole cuts are very sleek and elegant shoes that sometimes,
they have a medallion on top and you can wear them with suits
but if you have them in brown and burgundy colors, also with sportcoat combinations.
Overall though, I'd say it's more in the formal end of things
just because of the clean line and the lack of seams.
Another type of Oxford is the so-called U tip and it's similar to a wing tip
but it has that U shape when you look at it from the top.
It often comes as a spectator, as you can see here, with two tones,
and basically, it's a very loud shoe, it's unusual shoe and therefore,
it's only suggested if you want to create an outfit that is defined and that catches people's eyes.
That being said, one of the ways to get really a lot out of your oxfords is to change the color of your shoelaces.
While a pair of shoes can cost you $200, $300 or $2000,
a pair of shoelaces cost about ten bucks and it can really change the entire look.
This brown shoe here looks very different with yellow laces.
For example, you can add green or red or just brown laces and basically,
with a simple twist, you get an entirely different shoe and it makes the shoe more casual.
If you want to invest in some oxfords to start,
I suggest you get a black cap toe oxford with black shoelaces and then a few other colors
such as red or yellow or burgundy, and even purple works.
As a second shoe, I suggest you get a half brogue or full brogue, mid brown oxford,
and if you want to go a step further, you can get either a tan or a burgundy red one.
For example, these two would be good options for first two shoes.
As you grow your shoe collection, you can expand in more unusual models
such as this white, full brogue which is great in summer,
or this spectator shoe which looks great with a plain, navy suit, or striped suit.
Of course, there are lots of other color combinations for oxfords,
and since it's such a classic, versatile, and timeless last and style,
you will find basically anything under the sun.
If you want to find out what brands we recommend, please check out our in-depth guide,
and if you want to buy high-quality colorful shoelaces in round and flat and different shapes,
please check out our shop.
Make sure to check out the article because no matter your budget,
we have an option for low, middle, and high-end.


牛津鞋大解密!你知道不同的牛津鞋怎麼穿嗎? (Oxford Shoes Guide - How To Wear, Buy & Combine Men's Oxfords)

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Lilian Chang 發佈於 2017 年 10 月 19 日    Lilian Chang 翻譯    jenny 審核
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