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Welcome to Shikoku on one of the hottest days of the summer!
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Japan is always trying to find ways to improve life.
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Take it to another level!
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That could include Technology, Accomodation,
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Mascots, Entertainment
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Even food.
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This time I'm in Zentsuji in Kagawa Prefecture
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to try a favorite food of mine that has evolved
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to that next level,
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The square watermelon of Zentsuji
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Before we head to the farm and warehouse,
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Let's take a look at those watermelons on sale in Tokyo
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The square watermelon is like a piece of treasure,
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reflected in its shape and its price
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which can be as high as this even more abroad.
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When you have a square watermelon, you want to show it off.
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Sometimes they're not even for sale.
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When they are, they are around 18 to 20,000 yen in Tokyo.
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This famous fruit stand in Shinjuku,
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always has some unique fruit on sale.
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And there it is,
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for 20,000 yen.
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What makes these watermelons so valuable?
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Here are some facts:
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They can last up until 6 months
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because they are harvested unriped.
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They are ornamental.
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meant for display, not dessert.
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Zentsuji grows only 200 of them a year,
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so they're rare
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The average price is 10,000 to 20,000 yen each.
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although its rarity can affect the market price.
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and they are made, only in Zentsuji,
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legally.
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So where is Zentsuji?
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We have to travel to the smallest of Japan's 4 main islands.
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Shikoku
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Just outside the City of Takamatsu lies Zentsuji
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in Kagawa prefecture.
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Situated on the 88 temple Shikoku pilgrimage route.
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Population 34,000 people.
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It's a green area surrounded by hills.
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and the square watermelons are grown right down there.
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Zentsuji isn't Kyoto or Tokyo
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but it sure has some things to see and do.
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It's a peaceful city.
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That's Zentsuji temple over there.
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Founded in 813.
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The 5 story pagoda is listed as an
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important cultural property of Japan.
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It sure looks it.
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There is a basement in the temple
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where you can walk in the dark.
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Great for clearing your mind
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until you have to feel your way out.
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Nearby is a small temple dedicated to child bearing
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and breast feeding
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Kagawa has some of the best Udon noodles in japan.
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and Zentsuji is loaded with self - serve Sanuki Udon restaurants.
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Cool down from your pilgrimage with some gold icecream.
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Want something harder?
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Try Katapan.
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120 years of history.
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This confectionary shop
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boasts the hardest bread in the world.
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The square watermelon adventure starts in the watermelon field
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where Yamashita-san shows me how they are grown.
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Not all of the watermelons here are grown into cubes.
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It doesn't take long before you find one.
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When a watermelon gets to a size,
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the best ones are put into the box
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which the farmers have been using for many years
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You can see the stem popping out
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and the box stabilized on a wooden plank.
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Balance and placement are critical.
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Here's the stem on the outside.
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It's not easy to make a square watermelon,
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New farmers have a tough time of it.
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Zentsuji normally grows 200 annually.
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but on bad years, it can yield as few as 70.
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If not beautiful, not for sale.
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Wow... Do your best.
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Each one has to be perfect.
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Every year, Zentsuji farmers get a little better at making them.
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Thanks.
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They evolve.
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The finished square watermelons are taken
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to a cooperative warehouse for packaging.
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and distributed typically starting at the end of June.
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This was the second harvest day in July
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so yields were lower
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Zentsuji farmers do all the packaging themselves.
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All of them seniors with more energy
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than those half their age.
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The sticker is the official seal for the square watermelon.
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A registered trademark.
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The square watermelon fits perfectly in the 18 cm box.
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A guide for decorating it with a ribbon is enclosed.
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When completed, it looks like this.
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A fork lift carries each farmers' watermelons
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to be taped up.
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Today's square watermelon processing took just a little over an hour
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The watermelons are stored in this chilled warehouse
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which reminded me of a bank vault.
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These watermelons have a lot of value.
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3, 4, 5 times more than a normal watermelon.
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A happy Bon Voyage to those beautiful green cubes.
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Destination, somewhere else.
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What's the deal with these square watermelons?
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I asked Yamashita-san for the story
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It was his father who originally tried this out
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over 45 years ago
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When he couldn't manage the square watermelon,
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and no one at the local committee raised their hand to take over,
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his son took responsibility,
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continuing his father's legacy.
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Now they're world famous,
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and a big part of Zentsuji identity.
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Why don't people eat square watermelons?
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The stripes on this watermelon are not straight.
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so it's perfect for a test
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Yamashita-san's wife goes for a center cut
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Let's see what's inside.
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It's only partially pink.
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The orange and yellow part exposed as unriped.
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It lies flat on the cutting board.
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The Yamashitas don't seem impressed with the taste.
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but that's to be expected
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I just can't get over the angle.
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right here.
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The fact that it's square. You never see anything...
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like this.
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Time for a quick taste test
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It's not sweet,
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It's not...it's not bad
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It tastes,
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Waterly....kind of like a...ah...
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a squash.
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Certainly not sweet
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and definitely not like any watermelon I've ever tasted before
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but it's pretty amazing to look at.
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isn't it?
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The Japanese square watermelon
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certainly is creative and unique
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But there is more to it than that
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What we see as food, can also be seen as art,
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certainly nothing new in Japan
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where everyday items always find a way to evolve
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to the next level
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and in Zentsuji, that means these
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Beautiful, and very much worth it if you have the cash,
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square watermelons