Around the world with Valery Shanin

與Valery Shanin一起環遊世界

The trip across Taiwan became the next stage of the World without Visas project,

這次的臺灣之行，成為 "世界無簽證 "計劃的下一個階段。

within which Valery Shanin travels only around the countries, visa-free for Russians.

其中瓦列裡-沙寧只在各國旅行，對俄羅斯人免籤。

TAIWAN: Temples and Mountains

臺灣：寺廟與山川

Taiwan is a small island.

臺灣是一個小島。

It is about 500 kilometers from north to south and 100 — from west to east.

從北到南約500公里，從西到東約100-。

In 1514, the Portuguese fishermen, who saw it first among Europeans, called the island "Formosa", that means "Fine".

1514年，葡萄牙漁民在歐洲人中首先看到了這個島，他們把這個島叫做"Formosa"，也就是"Fine"的意思。

While more pragmatic Chinese call it Taiwan or "Ledged Gulf".

而更務實的中國人則稱其為臺灣或"Ledged海灣"。

Historically, Taiwan remained as the last center of traditional Chinese culture.

歷史上，臺灣仍然是中國傳統文化的最後一箇中心。

While during the 20th century, in continental China, there were continuous wars, and later the destructive Cultural revolution, here everything remained untouched.

20世紀，在中國大陸，戰爭不斷，後來又發生了毀滅性的文化大革命，而在這裡，一切都沒有受到影響。

An array of monuments of traditional Chinese, Japanese and European colonial architecture have preserved in Taiwan.

在臺灣，保留了一系列中國、日本和歐洲殖民時期的傳統建築遺蹟。

It is in addition to the picturesque mountain landscapes and fine climate.

除了風景如畫的山水和優良的氣候外。

Practically all western coast represents a huge urbanized zone.

實際上整個西部沿海都是一個巨大的城市化區域。

It is sometimes difficult to distinguish, where one city comes to an end and another begins.

有時很難區分，一個城市的終點和另一個城市的起點。

But should we move from the coast, slightly towards the central regions, rural areas with rice fields and palm groves instantly begin to appear.

但是，如果我們從沿海地區稍稍向中部地區移動，就會立即出現有稻田和棕櫚林的農村地區。

And a little more further to the east — the rivers, lakes and mountain ridges.

再往東一點--江河湖海和山脊。

Our travel begins in Taipei.

我們的旅行從臺北開始。

Exactly here, in the capital of Taiwan, there is an international airport — the air gates of the country.

正是在這裡，在臺灣的首都，有一個國際機場--國門。

Taipei is a relatively young city by the Chinese scale.

從中國的尺度來看，臺北是一個相對年輕的城市。

Only a century ago, in the valley of the River Danshui, there used to be only rice fields and peasants' yards.

僅僅在百年前，在淡水河谷，過去只有稻田和農民'院子。

Today Taipei is a noisy shopping and cultural center of the country, one of the most densely populated megalopolises of the world.

如今的臺北是全國喧囂的購物和文化中心，是世界上人口最密集的超級城市之一。

There are no more than one or two historical sights here.

這裡的歷史景點不外乎一兩個。

But the existing ones are treated with big respect.

但現有的都是大禮相待。

Temples have remained best of all.

寺廟仍然是最好的。

Both Buddhist and Confucian.

既是佛家，也是儒家。

All, small and even absolutely tiny, family temples as well as the cult complexes with pagodas, pavilions and courtyards, occupying huge territories.

所有的，小的甚至絕對是小的，家廟以及有塔、有亭、有院的邪教建築群，佔據著巨大的領土。

Longshan - the most known and popular temple of the capital and of all the island.

龍山--京城乃至全島最知名、最受歡迎的寺廟。

It is always crowded here.

這裡總是很擁擠。

The services are held not in the rooms, but under the open sky.

儀式不是在房間裡舉行，而是在露天下舉行。

The temple, founded by the settlers from continental China, was dedicated to the goddess of mercy Guan Yin.

寺廟是由中國大陸移民建立的，供奉的是觀音菩薩。

The constructions burned down several times and collapsed during the earthquakes.

這些建築在地震中多次被燒燬和倒塌。

In 1945, the temple was also destroyed by bombing.

1945年，該寺也被炸燬。

It is simply a miracle, that the highly esteemed statue of the goddess Guan Yin survived.

這簡直是一個奇蹟，備受推崇的觀音菩薩像竟然能存活下來。

The new walls have been constructed — in full accordance with the original pieces.

新的牆體已經建成--完全按照原件建造。

The grandiose memorial Chiang Kai-shek in the center of Taipei, near the Presidential palace, the National Theater and the Concert hall reminds of the Lincoln's memorial in Washington.

蔣介石紀念館位於臺北市中心，靠近總統府、國家大劇院和音樂廳，宏偉的紀念館讓人想起華盛頓的林肯紀念館。

In the center of a huge hall covered with an enormous dome, there is a huge statue of the generalissimo established.

在一個巨大的大廳的中心，覆蓋著一個巨大的圓頂，有一個巨大的雕像的Generalissimo建立。

Together with the remains of the army of Kuomintang, beaten by the communists, Chiang Kai-shek founded the Chinese republic of Taiwan in 1949.

1949年，蔣介石與被共產黨打倒的國民黨軍隊殘部一起，建立了中華民國臺灣。

It was Taiwanese authorities, who represented all China in the United Nations until 1971.

直到1971年，代表全中國參加聯合國的是臺灣當局。

But then, Americans began to be on friendly terms with the authorities of the People's Republic of China, and Taiwan was forgotten.

但後來，美國人開始與中華人民共和國當局友好相處，臺灣被遺忘了。

Only the contract on military cooperation has remained.

只有軍事合作的合同還在。

And the currency here is the dollar — although Taiwanese.

而這裡的貨幣是美元--雖然臺灣。

The memory of the confessor Chiang Kai-shek, the founder of Kuomintang Sun Yat Sen, is still strong in Taipei.

國民黨孫中山的創始人蔣介石的告白，在臺北的記憶力依然很強。

He played in China the same role as Kerensky in Russia — and was also in power not for long — only one and a half months, in the beginning of 1912.

他在中國扮演的角色和克倫斯基在俄國扮演的角色一樣--也是在1912年初，執政時間不長--只有一個半月。

But, while nobody remembers Kerensky, Sun Yat Sen is esteemed both in continental China, where the huge mausoleum is built in his honor, and in Taiwan.

不過，雖然沒有人記得克倫斯基，但無論是在為他修建巨大陵墓的中國大陸，還是在臺灣，孫中山都受到推崇。

The trains, that look more like electric ones, depart as regularly as the underground trains.

這些看起來更像電動火車的列車，和地下列車一樣定時發車。

The regular ones stop at each post.

常規的在每個崗位上都會停止。

While express trains do only several stops on the way to the south.

而特快列車在南下途中只做幾站。

There are no sleepers available in them — the island is small, it can be crossed in a day in any direction.

From Taipei, we are going on a trip to the south, along the western coast of the island.

從臺北出發，我們要去南方，沿著島的西海岸旅行。

The railroad passes though the most densely populated areas and the largest cities of the country.

鐵路經過人口最密集的地區和全國最大的城市。

The first stop is the city of Zhanghua.

第一站是沾化市。

The place of crossing of all railway tracks.

所有鐵路軌道的交匯處。

Directly by the station, there is a Buddhist temple “Thousands of lights».

車站旁直接有一座佛寺 "千燈"。

It is the most ancient in the city.

它是城市中最古老的。

In the park, on the mountain of "Eight Trigramms" or in Chinese "Baguashans", they have built a grandiose temple complex.

在公園的"八卦山"或中文的"八卦山"上，他們建造了一座宏偉的寺廟群。

However, this hill is called the mountain, being only about 400 meters high, for the sake of bigger solidity.

不過，這座山叫山，只有400米左右的高度，為了更大的穩固性。

But the place is significant — with a view.

但這個地方很重要--有風景。

There used to be a military base here. And now it is the place of a cult.

這裡曾經是一個軍事基地。而現在這裡是一個邪教的地方。

The 22 meter high statue of the sitting Buddha serves as a landmark.

22米高的坐佛像是一個地標。

Near the Buddha, there is a multistory temple, two towers and a pond with sacred fishes — as it is known to any Buddhist, Buddha himself was also a fish in one of his reincarnations.

在佛祖附近，有一座多層寺廟，兩座大廈，還有一個池塘，池塘裡有神魚--只要是佛教徒都知道，佛祖本人在一次轉世中也是一條魚。

As in any Buddhist temple, there is a place here not only for Buddha, but also for numerous characters from the ancient Chinese myths.

和任何一座佛寺一樣，這裡不僅有佛的位置，還有眾多中國古代神話中的人物。

The Confucian monastery — or better to say, what is left of it after the fire in 2006 — looks much more modest.

儒家寺院--或者更好地說是2006年大火後留下的東西--看起來要簡陋得多。

This place is not for prayers, but for education.

這個地方不是用來祈禱的，而是用來教育的。

The city of Lukang is famous for its temples.

陸港市以寺廟聞名。

Today, it is a small town on the territory of Zhanghua county.

如今，它是沾化縣境內的一個小城鎮。

But prior to the beginning of the 20th century, it was the second largest city and the largest port of the island.

但在20世紀初以前，它是島上第二大城市和最大的港口。

At the times when Taiwan was colonized by the Dutch, the cervine skins were exported from here.

在臺灣被荷蘭人殖民的時候，頸椎皮就是從這裡出口的。

The railroad has not reached the city, and the harbor has shoaled.

鐵路未通，港灣已灘。

The city began to quickly decay.

城市開始迅速衰敗。

But specifically thanks to this, it has preserved so well.

但特別是多虧了這一點，它才保存得這麼好。

The temple of Longshan, decorated with woodcarvings and devoted to the goddess of mercy Guan Yin - is a real work of art.

It attracts not only pilgrims, but also numerous tourists.

它不僅吸引著朝聖者，也吸引著眾多的遊客。

Lukang was a seaport since ancient times.

陸港自古就是一個海港。

Therefore, it is not surprising that the main temple is dedicated not to Confucius or even to Buddha, but to the Chinese goddess of the sea — Matzu.

是以，主廟裡供奉的不是孔子，甚至不是佛祖，而是中國的海洋女神--馬祖，也就不足為奇了。

However, she is not the only one here.

然而，這裡並不是只有她一個人。

The temple is filled with images of numerous Chinese gods and spirits.

廟內供奉著眾多中國神靈的影像。

Literally, everyone will find his/her god patron here.

從字面上看，每個人都會在這裡找到他/她的上帝守護者。

With the nightfall, the city steeps in slumber, and the temple starts shining with thousands of candles, icon lamps, bulbs and lanterns.

隨著夜幕的降臨，城市沉浸在沉睡中，寺廟裡的萬千蠟燭、聖像燈、燈泡、燈籠開始閃耀。

The spot of light attracts here everybody who does not sleep.

光斑吸引著這裡所有不睡覺的人。

Whole families come here — with wives and children.

整個家庭都來這裡--帶著妻子和孩子。

We are returning to the railroad and continuing further to the south.

我們要返回鐵路，繼續往南走。

All Taiwan's railway lines are electrified.

臺灣所有的鐵路線都是電氣化的。

The locomotives remained — but only as museum exhibits.

這些機車仍然存在--但只是作為博物館的展品。

The main railway of the country passes across the western coast strictly from the north to the south.

國家的主要鐵路從北到南嚴格地穿過西部沿海。

At the station of Ershuy, a narrow-gage railway branch turns to the east.

在二石峪站，一條窄軌鐵路支線向東拐。

The rail lines were laid on rural territories — beside the rice fields, sugar cane plantations, palm groves and villages.

鐵路線鋪設在農村地區--稻田、甘蔗種植園、棕櫚林和村莊旁。

The rail lines were laid on rural territories — beside the rice fields, sugar cane plantations, palm groves and villages. Here begin the distant spurs of the mountain range, stretching along the center of the island.

鐵路線鋪設在農村地區--稻田、甘蔗種植園、棕櫚林和村莊旁。這裡開始了遠處的山脈支線，沿著島嶼的中心延伸。

The rail line, about 30 km long, finishes with the dead end at the Chechen station.

這條鐵路線長約30公里，終點是車臣站的死角。

It appears already in the foothills, near the hydroelectric power station on the Sichzhong River.

它已經出現在山腳下，四中河的水電站附近。

At the beginning of the 20th century there was a sawmill here. It doesn't work any more.

在20世紀初，這裡有一個鋸木廠。它不工作了。

The workers were replaced by the tourists.

工人被遊客取代。

From the Chechen station, buses go to the Sun and Moon Lake.

從車臣站出發，有公車前往日月潭。

Here, for some reason, it is called not in Chinese, but in English - Sun Moon Lake.

在這裡，不知道為什麼，它的中文名字不叫，而是叫--日月潭。

Earlier it was known as the Candida Lake — in honor of the Dutch missionary Georgi Candid, who in the 17th century acquainted natives with the true belief.

早些時候，它被稱為坎迪達湖--以紀念荷蘭傳教士Georgi Candid，他在17世紀讓當地人認識了真正的信仰。

The largest lake of Taiwan divides the Island of Lala, connected with the coast, into two parts.

臺灣最大的湖泊將與海岸相連的拉拉島分為兩部分。

The Sun Moon Lake is one of the largest tourist centers of Taiwan.

日月潭是臺灣最大的旅遊中心之一。

The Lala Island is completely built up with hotels and restaurants.

拉拉島完全建成了酒店和餐廳。

Nobody sleeps here at night. There is no time for it.

晚上沒人在這裡睡覺。沒有時間了。

The lake's cruise vessels depart from the wharf. For the fans of healthy lifestyle, the walking tracks were laid along the coast.

湖邊的遊船從碼頭出發。為了健康生活方式的愛好者，沿岸鋪設了步行道。

One of them is called the Chiang Kai-shek Trail — in honor of the first president of the Chinese Republic of Taiwan.

其中一條叫蔣介石步道--為了紀念中華民國第一任總統。

As a pensioner, he liked to take his leisurely walks here. Even without his bodyguards.

作為一個退休人員，他喜歡在這裡悠閒地散步。即使沒有他的保鏢。

- On the trail, by foot.

- 在小路上，徒步。

On the bank of the lake there were two Buddhist temples.

湖岸上有兩座佛寺。

During the Japanese occupation of the island, they have constructed a dam, and the water level has risen.

在日本人佔領該島期間，他們修建了水壩，水位上升。

In 1938, the temples had to be moved to a new place — far from the coast, on to the hill top with the view.

1938年，寺廟不得不搬到一個新的地方--遠離海岸，在山頂上，風景優美。

So, this is how the Wen Wu Temple appeared, that has become one of the main tourist sights of the lake.

所以，文武廟就是這樣出現的，那已經成為湖邊的主要旅遊景點之一。

Several buildings are filled with statues, sign plates, small lamps and hand bells.

幾座樓房裡擺滿了雕像、標誌牌、小燈和手鈴。

The fountain is interesting not because of its architectural elegance, but due to the fact that water comes here from the hot springs.

噴泉之所以有趣，不是因為它的建築優雅，而是因為這裡的水來自溫泉。

The surrounding mountains only seem to be silent and peaceful.

周圍的山巒只顯得寂靜而安詳。

The volcanic activity goes on.

火山活動還在繼續。

Therefore, the earthquakes are not rare.

是以，地震並不罕見。

The only hope is for the aid of higher forces.

唯一的希望就是得到上級力量的幫助。

And the best way to achieve their grace are prayers and sacrifices.

而實現他們恩典的最好方法就是祈禱和犧牲。

Therefore, temples are never empty here.

是以，這裡的寺廟從來都是空的。

The next part along the coast is possible and necessary to do by train.

接下來的海岸線部分是可以也是必須要坐火車的。

Before, it was possible to go inside the mountains by the railway.

以前，可以坐鐵路到山裡面去。

There is a narrow-gage railway line.

有一條窄軌鐵路。

But it has suffered during one of the numerous typhoons. And now, only a small part of it works in the mountains, not connected with anything.

但是，在眾多臺風中，它已經遭受到了損失。而現在，只有一小部分在山上工作，與任何事物都沒有聯繫。

The National Nature park of Alishan, occupies the territory of about 400 square kilometers, near the Yushan Mountain — the highest mountain top of the island.

阿里山國家級自然公園，佔地約400平方公里，緊鄰島上最高山頂--玉山。

On the territory of the park, there are mountains that were overgrown with a damp rainforest with huge trees, rapid rivers with picturesque falls, tea plantations and resort villages.

境內有山巒疊嶂、巨木林立的潮溼雨林，有瀑布如畫的湍急河流，有茶園和度假村落。

The railroad was constructed by the Japanese in 1912, for wood transportation.

這條鐵路是日本人在1912年修建的，用於運輸木材。

Later, it started to carry the tourists.

後來，它開始承載遊客。

Only a small part works today.

如今只有一小部分能用。

The trees, that were not cut down by the Japanese, are now protected by the government.

這些沒有被日本人砍伐的樹木，現在都受到政府的保護。

It is not even possible to come close to them, it damages the roots.

甚至不能靠近它們，會損傷根部。

The wooden paths were laid for the tourists, the stairs and bridges were made.

為遊客鋪設了木質小路，製作了樓梯和橋樑。

The Temple of Shouzhen — the largest cult construction in the Alishan Mountains.

壽真寺--阿里山最大的邪教建築。

It is located at the altitude of 2150 meters above sea level.

它位於海拔2150米處。

The Temple of Shouzhen is dedicated to the local gods, who are responsible for justice and commerce and also to the goddess, responsible for fertility.

壽貞廟供奉的是地方神，負責正義和商業，也供奉女神，負責生育。

This is why there are always so many women here.

這就是為什麼這裡總是有那麼多女人的原因。

Local warm and humid climate is ideal for tea cultivation.

當地溫暖溼潤的氣候非常適合茶葉種植。

Thanks to rather low temperatures, constant fogs and drizzles, the level of theanine in the tea leaves increases.

由於氣溫相當低，不斷有霧氣和雨點，茶葉中茶氨酸的含量會增加。

This is why the local tea "Alishan oolong", also differs by its saturated sweet taste.

所以當地的茶葉"阿里山烏龍"，也因其飽和的甜味而與眾不同。

There are many tourist tracks in the park.

公園裡有很多旅遊線路。

The most popular one leads to the observation deck, from where it is possible to see the most beautiful sunrise in Taiwan.

最受歡迎的是通往觀景臺，從這裡可以看到臺灣最美的日出。

- From this exact platform you are supposed to enjoy the sunrise. At the moment, of course, there is no visibility. The weather is cloudy. It is already 8:00 am. But there is no sign of sun.

- 在這個確切的平臺上，你應該可以欣賞到日出。此刻，當然，沒有能見度。天氣是多雲的。現在已經是早上8點了。但沒有太陽的跡象。

Tainan — the fourth largest city of Taiwan, and one of the oldest in the country.

臺南--臺灣第四大城市，也是臺灣最古老的城市之一。

In the second half of the 18th century, it was the capital of the Dongning State.

18世紀下半葉，這裡是東寧國的首都。

And later — up to 1887 — of all Taiwan.

而後--至1887年，全臺灣的。

Therefore, there are so many historical and architectural monuments here.

所以，這裡有那麼多的歷史和建築古蹟。

They were built by all: Aboriginals, Chinese and Europeans.

它們是由所有人建造的。原住民、中國人和歐洲人。

Tainan was founded as Dunda or, as translated from Chinese, "the Eastern Capital".

臺南建國時稱敦達，或譯為中文的"東都"。

It became the capital city in 1661, when the national hero of Zheng Chengong, expelled from the island the odious Dutch colonialists.

1661年，民族英雄鄭成功將可惡的荷蘭殖民者驅逐出島，成為首都。

The first Confucius's temple in Taiwan was built here.

臺灣第一座孔子廟就建在這裡。

It hosted the first school.

它主辦了第一所學校。

It occupied half of the temple complex.

它佔據了廟宇建築群的一半。

The second half were temples and chapels.

後半部分是寺廟和教堂。

The Tower of Chikan remained from the Fort of Province, built in 1653 by the Dutch, on the place of the aboriginal village of Saky.

赤坎塔是從1653年荷蘭人在原住民村落薩基的地方修建的省堡留下來的。

Near the train station, it is worth glancing at the city park, to admire the blossoming lotuses.

在火車站附近，值得一瞥的是城市公園，可以欣賞到盛開的荷花。

If, of course, the timing is right.

當然，如果時機合適的話。

In Tainan it is possible to find a multitude of cult constructions.

在臺南，可以找到眾多的邪教建築。

They are dedicated to Buddha and Confucius, and also to Chinese gods and local spirits.

它們供奉著佛祖和孔子，也供奉著中國的神靈和地方神靈。

The Temple of the god of war Guan-di, was founded in the middle of the 17th century, during a short era of Taiwan's independence from the Chinese empire of Qing.

戰神關帝廟，始建於17世紀中葉，是臺灣從清朝獨立出來的短暫時代。

It is considered to be the oldest cult construction of the island.

它被認為是島上最古老的邪教建築。

The city was surrounded by high walls. Only the Big Southern Gate, known also as the Moon Gate, has remained of them.

城的四周都是高牆。只有大南門，又稱月門，還保留著它們。

In 1624, the Dutch constructed the Dayuan Port on the seashore.

1624年，荷蘭人在海邊修建了大元港。

Now it is called Anping and is a part of Tainan.

現在叫安平，屬於臺南。

The Dutch Fort of Zealand has partially remained.

紐西蘭的荷蘭堡壘已部分保留。

It is about four kilometers from here to the city center in a straight line — it is possible to walk it by foot along the channel coast.

The City of Kaohsiung, with a population of about three million people — is the largest port and industrial commercial center of the southern part of Taiwan.

高雄市，人口約300萬--是臺灣南部最大的港口和工業商業中心。

It is rightly regarded as the southern capital of the country.

它理所當然地被認為是南方的首都。

The central city park is an island of green, jammed from all the directions by the office skyscrapers and multistory houses.

城市中央公園是一座綠島，從四面八方被寫字樓摩天大樓和多層住宅堵得水洩不通。

The picturesque Chengqing Lake, with its name translated as "crystal-clear", is known also as the Lake of Lotuses.

風景如畫的承慶湖，名字翻譯成"晶瑩剔透"，又被稱為蓮花湖。

The coast is adjoined by the park with picturesque pagodas and pavilions.

海岸邊是公園，公園裡有風景如畫的牌坊和亭子。

The Confucius's temple, constructed in the typical style of the Sung dynasty, strikes by its dimensions.

孔子'的廟宇，以典型的宋代風格建造，以其尺寸引人注目。

It is the largest Confucian temple of Taiwan.

它是臺灣最大的孔廟。