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  • Look at this note; it's from the Blue Book Modeling Agency in 1945.

    看一下這張 1945年藍皮書模特經紀公司所留下的便條。

  • It says Norma Jeane, who you might also know as Marilyn Monroe, was in fact, a size 12.

    上面寫著,諾瑪 ‧ 簡 (瑪莉蓮 ‧ 夢露) 穿 12 號的衣服。

  • She was.

    她是 12 號沒錯。

  • but back in the 50s, a size 12 was very thin.

    但在五零年代,穿 12 號的人算非常苗條。

  • That was a model.

    可謂模特兒身材。

  • You know, a size 12 then would be about a size 6 now.

    但當時的 12 號差不多變成現在的 6 號。

  • Well, to be exact, she would be a size 8 at Topshop, 6 at Zara, and 4 to 6 at American Apparel.

    更精確一點,她在 Topshop 要買 8 號衣服,在 Zara 是 6 號,在American Apparel則是 4 到 6 號之間。

  • To actually show you the inconsistencies, I went shopping.

    為了能呈現這樣的不一致,我實地去採買衣服。

  • I bought 3 jeans at 3 different stores, all in the same size.

    我在三家店分別各買了一件牛仔褲,都是 4 號。

  • Were already off to a bad start.

    我們已經有個不太好的開始。

  • These all look different.

    三件大小都不同。

  • This is not a 4.

    這太大了,根本不是 4 號。

  • This one is the one in the middle.

    這是中間那一件。

  • This one fits!

    剛剛好!

  • Hold up.

    等一會。

  • It won’t zip.

    根本拉不上來。

  • I give up.

    我放棄!

  • Let’s wind back a little bit.

    我們來回溯一小段歷史。

  • It was the Napoleonic wars and later the Civil War in the US that demanded a sizing system for mass production of clothing for the first time.

    由於拿破崙戰爭和之後的美國內戰,開始需要尺碼分類系統的產生,以便大量生產衣服。

  • It was for men’s uniforms.

    尤其為了量產男性軍服。

  • After that, men’s suit sizes were based on the chest measurement and the rest was calculated accordingly, assuming that their bodies were in proportion.

    在那之後,男性服裝尺碼是根據胸圍大小分類,則假設身體呈一定比例,根據胸圍計算。

  • The demands for mass production of uniforms escalated and ready-made clothing became really popular.

    量產軍服的需求激增,成衣業進而更加蓬勃。

  • By the end of the nineteenth century, most people were wearing ready-made clothes.

    到十九世紀末期,大多數人都穿成衣。

  • In 1939, the US government funded statisticians to collect the weight and 58 measurements of 15,000 women.

    1939年,美國政府資助統計學家,蒐集一萬五千名女性的體重與其他 58 種尺寸資料。

  • They only used white women, even though they took measurements of women of color, they did not include them in the study or in the calculations.

    儘管他們蒐集了一些非白人女性的尺寸資料,卻只以白人女性為樣本,非白人女性並未被納入研究或計算中。

  • The women who are most likely to turn out for these studies were the poor women because they would be paid.

    而最有可能參與這項計畫的女性大多屬貧困階級,因為可以獲得報酬。

  • So I think the data set even back then was possibly malnourished women, certainly poor women, and not very diverse group of womenand that’s what we started with.

    所以我想當初的資料是建立在一群貧困、營養不良的白人女性,而非以多元族群為樣本,這就是尺碼分類系統成立的開端

  • They were looking for key measurements that could predict the sizes of other parts of the body, the way chest sizes had for men.

    統計學家致力找尋關鍵的度量,能推測身體其他部位的尺寸,就像以胸圍來推測男性身材一樣。

  • But women’s bodies, with variable breast and hip sizes, were much harder to summarize with a single number.

    但女性的胸圍與臀圍相當不同,難以計算出一個確切數字。

  • So, the data was used to create a system in 1958 with sizes from 8 to 42, which was just an arbitrary number based out of bust size, combined with a letter for height and a plus minus for hips.

    於是,在 1958 年統計學家便以這些資料,制定了 8 到 42 號的尺碼分類系統,任意取一組數字,代表不同胸圍;英文字母代表身高,和正負號代表臀圍。

  • The sizing chart was really unpopular, so they made some updates, but finally in 1983 it was completely withdrawn.

    這套尺寸量表並不普及,之後有過一些修正,但在 1983 年還是被完全廢除。

  • In the 1970s and 80s, companies started labeling sizes down, and adding lower numbers like 2, zero and now even a double zero.

    在 1970 和 80 年代,製衣廠開始在衣服上標示尺碼,並加入較小的數字,像 2 和 0,現在甚至有 00。

  • So the waist measurement that used to be a size 12 became an 8.

    以前的腰圍 12 號,現在變成 8 號。

  • Vanity sizing specifically, is when the size on the label is lowered artificially, in order to attempt to get somebody to buy the garment.

    虛榮尺碼,是指標籤上的尺碼被人為降低以吸引顧客購買。

  • So youre appealing to the person’s vanity.

    這是在滿足消費者的虛榮心。

  • Sizing became a marketing tool.

    尺碼分類成為行銷工具。

  • I think it’s done because the women are getting bigger and were just addressing that.

    我想這個成因是由於現代女性有越趨肥胖的趨勢,學者正努力解決這個問題。

  • When the first standardizing chart came out in 1958, it was mostly built out of malnourished, white women.

    當第一套標準尺碼分類表於 1958 年問世時,大部分是依據營養不良的白人女性的資料製成的。

  • Now, that there’s such a wide group of people to cover, the retailers are picking a certain group of people to sell to, honing in on what works with that group and what doesn’t.

    現今由於有多元族群的消費者,成衣業者開始挑選特定族群消費者,專注於吸引與不吸引該族群的特質。

  • I think were more aiming for our own target markets.

    我認為業者更聚焦於自己的目標市場。

  • When Abercrombie & Fitch does their sizing, theyre sizing it to their target market not to me.

    當 A&F 決定產品尺碼時,他們是為目標市場消費者作尺碼分類,而不是針對像我這類的消費者。

  • And we kept tweaking that information until we sold more garments and could lower the return rate.

    業者扭曲真相,讓他們能賣更多衣服,便能降低退貨率。

  • That means that even brands owned by the same company will have inconsistent sizes.

    這也表示,同一家公司的不同品牌會有不一致的尺碼大小。

  • A size 8 at Banana Republic will have the same hip size as a size 2 at the Gap.

    例如 Banana Republic 8 號褲子的臀圍,會等同於GAP的 2 號。

  • So if you get frustrated while shopping

    所以,如果你購物時,因為尺碼感到挫折的話...

  • It’s not you, it’s the industry, it’s not women’s bodies, were fine the way we are.

    不是你的問題,是產業的問題,不是女人體態的問題,我們本來的樣子已經很好。

  • They are just random numbers, they don’t mean anything.

    這只是隨機的號碼,不代表什麼。

  • And if you don’t like the size, just cut it out of your clothes.

    如果你不喜歡那個尺碼,把它從你的衣服上剪掉就好。

Look at this note; it's from the Blue Book Modeling Agency in 1945.

看一下這張 1945年藍皮書模特經紀公司所留下的便條。

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B1 中級 中文 美國腔 Vox 尺碼 女性 分類 消費者 衣服

【性別平等】為什麼女性服裝尺寸超不合理? (Why womens clothing sizes)

  • 33067 1906
    Reduu 發佈於 2017 年 05 月 26 日
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