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  • Look at this note; it's from the Blue Book Modeling Agency in 1945.

    看一下這張 1945年藍皮書模特經紀公司所留下的便條。

  • It says Norma Jeane, who you might also know as Marilyn Monroe, was in fact, a size 12.

    上面寫著,諾瑪 ‧ 簡 (瑪莉蓮 ‧ 夢露) 穿 12 號的衣服。

  • She was.

    她是 12 號沒錯。

  • but back in the 50s, a size 12 was very thin.

    但在五零年代,穿 12 號的人算非常苗條。

  • That was a model.


  • You know, a size 12 then would be about a size 6 now.

    但當時的 12 號差不多變成現在的 6 號。

  • Well, to be exact, she would be a size 8 at Topshop, 6 at Zara, and 4 to 6 at American Apparel.

    更精確一點,她在 Topshop 要買 8 號衣服,在 Zara 是 6 號,在American Apparel則是 4 到 6 號之間。

  • To actually show you the inconsistencies, I went shopping.


  • I bought 3 jeans at 3 different stores, all in the same size.

    我在三家店分別各買了一件牛仔褲,都是 4 號。

  • Were already off to a bad start.


  • These all look different.


  • This is not a 4.

    這太大了,根本不是 4 號。

  • This one is the one in the middle.


  • This one fits!


  • Hold up.


  • It won’t zip.


  • I give up.


  • Let’s wind back a little bit.


  • It was the Napoleonic wars and later the Civil War in the US that demanded a sizing system for mass production of clothing for the first time.


  • It was for men’s uniforms.


  • After that, men’s suit sizes were based on the chest measurement and the rest was calculated accordingly, assuming that their bodies were in proportion.


  • The demands for mass production of uniforms escalated and ready-made clothing became really popular.


  • By the end of the nineteenth century, most people were wearing ready-made clothes.


  • In 1939, the US government funded statisticians to collect the weight and 58 measurements of 15,000 women.

    1939年,美國政府資助統計學家,蒐集一萬五千名女性的體重與其他 58 種尺寸資料。

  • They only used white women, even though they took measurements of women of color, they did not include them in the study or in the calculations.


  • The women who are most likely to turn out for these studies were the poor women because they would be paid.


  • So I think the data set even back then was possibly malnourished women, certainly poor women, and not very diverse group of womenand that’s what we started with.


  • They were looking for key measurements that could predict the sizes of other parts of the body, the way chest sizes had for men.


  • But women’s bodies, with variable breast and hip sizes, were much harder to summarize with a single number.


  • So, the data was used to create a system in 1958 with sizes from 8 to 42, which was just an arbitrary number based out of bust size, combined with a letter for height and a plus minus for hips.

    於是,在 1958 年統計學家便以這些資料,制定了 8 到 42 號的尺碼分類系統,任意取一組數字,代表不同胸圍;英文字母代表身高,和正負號代表臀圍。

  • The sizing chart was really unpopular, so they made some updates, but finally in 1983 it was completely withdrawn.

    這套尺寸量表並不普及,之後有過一些修正,但在 1983 年還是被完全廢除。

  • In the 1970s and 80s, companies started labeling sizes down, and adding lower numbers like 2, zero and now even a double zero.

    在 1970 和 80 年代,製衣廠開始在衣服上標示尺碼,並加入較小的數字,像 2 和 0,現在甚至有 00。

  • So the waist measurement that used to be a size 12 became an 8.

    以前的腰圍 12 號,現在變成 8 號。

  • Vanity sizing specifically, is when the size on the label is lowered artificially, in order to attempt to get somebody to buy the garment.


  • So youre appealing to the person’s vanity.


  • Sizing became a marketing tool.


  • I think it’s done because the women are getting bigger and were just addressing that.


  • When the first standardizing chart came out in 1958, it was mostly built out of malnourished, white women.

    當第一套標準尺碼分類表於 1958 年問世時,大部分是依據營養不良的白人女性的資料製成的。

  • Now, that there’s such a wide group of people to cover, the retailers are picking a certain group of people to sell to, honing in on what works with that group and what doesn’t.


  • I think were more aiming for our own target markets.


  • When Abercrombie & Fitch does their sizing, theyre sizing it to their target market not to me.

    當 A&F 決定產品尺碼時,他們是為目標市場消費者作尺碼分類,而不是針對像我這類的消費者。

  • And we kept tweaking that information until we sold more garments and could lower the return rate.


  • That means that even brands owned by the same company will have inconsistent sizes.


  • A size 8 at Banana Republic will have the same hip size as a size 2 at the Gap.

    例如 Banana Republic 8 號褲子的臀圍,會等同於GAP的 2 號。

  • So if you get frustrated while shopping


  • It’s not you, it’s the industry, it’s not women’s bodies, were fine the way we are.


  • They are just random numbers, they don’t mean anything.


  • And if you don’t like the size, just cut it out of your clothes.


Look at this note; it's from the Blue Book Modeling Agency in 1945.

看一下這張 1945年藍皮書模特經紀公司所留下的便條。

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B1 中級 中文 美國腔 Vox 尺碼 女性 分類 消費者 衣服

【性別平等】為什麼女性服裝尺寸超不合理? (Why womens clothing sizes)

  • 33067 1906
    Reduu 發佈於 2017 年 05 月 26 日