Name: 8片比薩的歷史! (A History of Pizza in 8 Slices!)
Uploaded: 2021-01-14T06:30:18.000Z
Duration: 14 min 58 s

The first pizzeria in New York is also the first pizzeria in the United States.

全美史上第一家披薩店開設在紐約

Lombardi's opened in 1905 just down the street

隆巴迪披薩店於1905年營業，就在這條街上

at its original location when Italian immigrant Gennaro Lombardi decided to convert his grocery into a pizza shop.

義大利移民喬納羅．隆巴迪決定從雜貨店改經營披薩店

based on the popularity of one of his employees' handmade pies.

因為雜貨店其中一位員工的手作派獲得高人氣支持

But one estimate for the number of pizza shops in the five boroughs is at around 2000,

經過一份田野調查估計，披薩店數目在這五個市鎮內就約有2000多家

many of them serving and some of them focused on the slice, which

其中大多目前都有在營業，少數披薩店只有單片販售

incidentally you can't get at Lombardi's, only whole pies here.

出人意料之外的是，因為隆巴迪披薩店全店只賣一整盤披薩，無法單片購買

So we're going to have to go somewhere else.

In New York City, this really is something of a staple.

I mean, I have heard people describe the New York slice

我想要說的是，據我所知，多數人形容紐約風味披薩

就如同早已習以為常的生活型態

Distilled down into this single piece of pizza is the stereotypical New York rush.

如果分析一下這片披薩，可以看見它完全體現出典型的紐約緊湊步調

I want to walk and eat and be satisfied and not late for my Idea Channel shoot.

可以拿著邊走邊吃，準時到達我的節目拍攝現場

Today we're going to talk about many different kinds of pizza,

今天，我們要聊聊不同種類的披薩

back on the Idea Channel set with pizza, literal pizza,

把我們要聊的披薩都帶到錄影現場去

because if we're making an episode about it

因為如果真的製作一集「披薩特輯」

我要吃下肚的披薩就可以報公帳了

There's evidence going as far back as ancient Rome, Greece,

許多證據顯示，披薩的歷史可追溯回古希臘、羅馬時代

與埃及，如飲食研究學者凱蘿．赫史托斯基

in "Pizza A Global History", people used,

在《披薩：吃的全球史》所寫，人們著重用途

引述作者的話──「把麵包當作盤子」

besides its main toppings,cheese, tomato sauce, and as John Green says, possibly other.

此外，作家約翰．葛林說過：「原本餅皮上面的食物，可不是現在常見的主要配料、起司與番茄醬汁」

Bread as plate, Helstosky says, puts pizza in the same lineage as pita, lavash, and tortilla.

赫史托斯基表明：「古人拿來當盤子用的麵包，與口袋餅、拉瓦什、墨西哥薄餅，都屬於扁平麵包家族」

But what we would point at and go, mmm, pizza,

不過，我們接下來想著重談的披薩

didn't come together until 18th century Naples, Italy.

要等到十八世紀，才在義大利拿坡里誕生

Considered low class food, Neapolitan pizza,

拿坡里披薩的誕生，造福貧窮階級

which we may call flat bread or thin crust pizza now,

現在人稱的扁平麵包或薄片披薩

was the first widely recognized marriage of bread, tomato, cheese,

and possibly other put into an oven and baked,

though the possibly other wouldn't become a craze until the mid 20th century.

但披薩直到二十世紀中期才受到多數人青睞

The tomatoes that are so often the base of a slice or a pie

didn't make it to Italy from Central and South America until the mid 16th century.

直到十六世紀中期，才從中南美洲傳到義大利

Let's just think about that briefly, a time in Italy without tomatoes.

簡單來說，就是沒有番茄的義大利時期

When they arrived, it was thanks to the Colombian Exchange.

番茄傳到義大利，要感謝「哥倫布大交換」

At first, most Europeans thought tomatoes were poisonous

起初，歐洲人大多認為番茄有毒

being in the deadly nightshade family of plants.

以為番茄和顛茄都屬於「劇毒茄家族」

So they were sold as ornaments and decoration

嚼啊嚼，簡直就是金蘋果！(譯註：美味之意，義大利文為"pomi d'oro")

Adventurousness and complex economic and cultural trade resulting from colonialism eventually

從殖民主義展開的冒險精神、多重貿易與文化交流

produced a simple, satisfying food with humble origins.

讓原本貧窮階級起步的披薩，變成簡單而美味的食物

Since its start, pizza has depended upon globalization.

因為貿易，披薩原料輸進義大利

whose cultural dominance brought it to the world.

主宰文化的美國，再將披薩帶散佈到全世界

its kind of funny to think that we're likely to call something that looks like this fancy pizza.

到底該如何定調披薩，光想起來就覺得有趣

While Neapolitan pizza was rounding out on the Western coast,

further south in Palermo, Sicily there was a different square shaped pie in the works.

在西西里偏南方的巴勒莫，披薩不是人人常見的圓形，而是方形的

a thick bread that's often topped with salt, garlic, and herbs.

一種較厚的麵包，上面的配料常為鹽、大蒜、香料

So while it doesn't resemble the iconic pizza emoji,

所以西西里披薩長得不像我們平常使用的圖片符號

可是，西西里披薩仍算是披薩的一種，這點非常重要

because though there are first pizzarias, Lombardi's,

因為縱使第一波開張的披薩店，如美國的隆巴迪

L'antica Pizzeria, Port'alba in Naples, it's tough if not impossible to point to a platonic pizza ideal.

位於拿坡里阿爾巴門的安蒂卡披薩店，理想到近乎完美的披薩店，實在是不能不提到它

There's no single original model that all pizza references.

The economic climate and poverty stricken population combined with available materials

經濟環境與貧困人口，讓人們就地取材，創造而成

at pizza's genesis to help feed whole families cheaply

「披薩創世紀」開端只是為了養活全家

in a way that was satisfying and nutritional.

至少可以果腹，吃得便宜、健康、快樂

More so than many other foods beyond its central ingredients,

pizza is historically a culinary solution

to a particular set of economic, cultural, and dietary conundrums

融合金字塔底端貧困階層、文化與飲食困境

which differ between the communities experiencing them.

Related to the Sicilian slice but distinct

is what is often called the grandma slice, which

admits something great about pizza that I think we rarely confront explicitly.

披薩使家庭更為凝聚，或許不一定限於家庭

but gathering around people and sharing a meal with them.

但的確讓人們縮短彼此間的距離，一同享受美食

I think about this whenever I get a slice from the corner pizza shop.

每次只要我在轉角披薩店買片披薩，都會浮現出這個想法：

What strangers are eating a slice pulled from the same pie as mine?

和我吃著同一盤披薩的人，究竟是誰呢？

Who am I, in some distributed and emergent sense, sharing a meal with?

我正在和同在城市中打拼的哪些人，共享這一餐呢？

Who are my pizza pals, my pie ties, my cheese chums?

誰是我的「披薩之交」、「派派好兄弟」、「起司閨蜜」呢？(譯註：講者刻意押韻)

This is not to say that everything is rosy in the plaza del pizza.

我並不是要說大家都能接受所有的披薩

There are preferences, allegiances, and animosities,

每個人都有不同的偏好、喜歡的口味或是討厭的披薩種類

perhaps none more pronounced than that between Chicago and New York.

但大家很少提及芝加哥與紐約兩區的披薩差異

At the heart of the geographically reinforced pie dispute is thickness.

人們主要爭論論紐、芝兩城不同的披薩厚度，各有擁護者

New York's pizza is thin like Neapolitan.

紐約披薩和拿波里披薩一樣，偏薄

Like most things pizza, it's hard to say who did it first.

如同許多事情，我們很難去說誰先誰後

But Pizzeria Uno is confidently implicated somehow

可是「第一披薩店」絕對能光榮地說

in serving the first Chicago style deep dish pizza in the 1940s.

自己是在四零年代第一家提供芝加哥深盤披薩的始祖

芝加哥深盤披薩比西西里披薩還要厚

than even Sicilian pizza but still round like a Neapolitan

and more pie like with a thick, hard crust.

而且餅皮底座像是又厚又硬的脆皮

Jon Stewart famously called it tomato soup in a bread bowl,

約翰．史都華曾稱深盤披薩是「麵包碗裡的番茄湯」

which explains why we haven't removed a slice,

史都華的貼切形容，也解釋為何我們現在沒有切下一塊

because there would be an avalanche of tomatoes

因為如此一來就會像番茄火山爆發

Deep dish devotees, anyway, counter that it's more flavorful.

總而言之，深盤披薩的腦粉，認為它比較美味

Or simply and inarguably, I just like it more.

講白一點，就是比較喜歡深盤披薩

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8片比薩的歷史! (A History of Pizza in 8 Slices!)

bring

left

deep

century