The first pizzeria in New York is also the first pizzeria in the United States.

全美史上第一家披薩店開設在紐約

Lombardi's opened in 1905 just down the street

隆巴迪披薩店於1905年營業，就在這條街上

at its original location when Italian immigrant Gennaro Lombardi decided to convert his grocery into a pizza shop.

義大利移民喬納羅．隆巴迪決定從雜貨店改經營披薩店

based on the popularity of one of his employees' handmade pies.

因為雜貨店其中一位員工的手作派獲得高人氣支持

Now it's a bit of a family problem.

現在倒像是經營問題了

But one estimate for the number of pizza shops in the five boroughs is at around 2000,

經過一份田野調查估計，披薩店數目在這五個市鎮內就約有2000多家

many of them serving and some of them focused on the slice, which

其中大多目前都有在營業，少數披薩店只有單片販售

incidentally you can't get at Lombardi's, only whole pies here.

出人意料之外的是，因為隆巴迪披薩店全店只賣一整盤披薩，無法單片購買

So we're going to have to go somewhere else.

所以我們只好先去別家了

In New York City, this really is something of a staple.

披薩簡直是紐約「名產」

I mean, I have heard people describe the New York slice

我想要說的是，據我所知，多數人形容紐約風味披薩

as nothing short of a way of life.

就如同早已習以為常的生活型態

Distilled down into this single piece of pizza is the stereotypical New York rush.

如果分析一下這片披薩，可以看見它完全體現出典型的紐約緊湊步調

I want to be served quickly and cheaply.

便宜且能快速取餐

I want to walk and eat and be satisfied and not late for my Idea Channel shoot.

可以拿著邊走邊吃，準時到達我的節目拍攝現場

Today we're going to talk about many different kinds of pizza,

今天，我們要聊聊不同種類的披薩

both literal and figurative,

聊我們吃的披薩及歷史

back on the Idea Channel set with pizza, literal pizza,

把我們要聊的披薩都帶到錄影現場去

because if we're making an episode about it

因為如果真的製作一集「披薩特輯」

it's a business expense.

我要吃下肚的披薩就可以報公帳了

There's evidence going as far back as ancient Rome, Greece,

許多證據顯示，披薩的歷史可追溯回古希臘、羅馬時代

and Egypt that, as Carol Helstosky says

與埃及，如飲食研究學者凱蘿．赫史托斯基

in "Pizza A Global History", people used,

在《披薩：吃的全球史》所寫，人們著重用途

quote, "bread as a plate", which is

引述作者的話──「把麵包當作盤子」

pizza's essential characteristic

顯示出披薩關鍵的輪廓與長相

besides its main toppings,cheese, tomato sauce, and as John Green says, possibly other.

此外，作家約翰．葛林說過：「原本餅皮上面的食物，可不是現在常見的主要配料、起司與番茄醬汁」

Bread as plate, Helstosky says, puts pizza in the same lineage as pita, lavash, and tortilla.

赫史托斯基表明：「古人拿來當盤子用的麵包，與口袋餅、拉瓦什、墨西哥薄餅，都屬於扁平麵包家族」

But what we would point at and go, mmm, pizza,

不過，我們接下來想著重談的披薩

didn't come together until 18th century Naples, Italy.

要等到十八世紀，才在義大利拿坡里誕生

Considered low class food, Neapolitan pizza,

拿坡里披薩的誕生，造福貧窮階級

which we may call flat bread or thin crust pizza now,

現在人稱的扁平麵包或薄片披薩

was the first widely recognized marriage of bread, tomato, cheese,

是由麵包、番茄、起司

and possibly other put into an oven and baked,

與其他配料放進烤箱烤

though the possibly other wouldn't become a craze until the mid 20th century.

但披薩直到二十世紀中期才受到多數人青睞

The tomatoes that are so often the base of a slice or a pie

披薩的常見配料──番茄

didn't make it to Italy from Central and South America until the mid 16th century.

直到十六世紀中期，才從中南美洲傳到義大利

Let's just think about that briefly, a time in Italy without tomatoes.

簡單來說，就是沒有番茄的義大利時期

When they arrived, it was thanks to the Colombian Exchange.

番茄傳到義大利，要感謝「哥倫布大交換」

At first, most Europeans thought tomatoes were poisonous

起初，歐洲人大多認為番茄有毒

being in the deadly nightshade family of plants.

以為番茄和顛茄都屬於「劇毒茄家族」

So they were sold as ornaments and decoration

所以番茄僅用來當裝飾

until some brave soul somewhere ate one.

直到某位勇士嘗了一口

Mmm. Golden Apple.

嚼啊嚼，簡直就是金蘋果！(譯註：美味之意，義大利文為"pomi d'oro")

This puts pizza at a crossroads.

披薩開始有更多發展方向

Adventurousness and complex economic and cultural trade resulting from colonialism eventually

從殖民主義展開的冒險精神、多重貿易與文化交流

produced a simple, satisfying food with humble origins.

讓原本貧窮階級起步的披薩，變成簡單而美味的食物

Since its start, pizza has depended upon globalization.

從此以後，披薩開始全球化

Trade got the ingredients to Italy.

因為貿易，披薩原料輸進義大利

Immigration brought it to America,

移民潮把披薩再帶到美國去

whose cultural dominance brought it to the world.

主宰文化的美國，再將披薩帶散佈到全世界

And at the end of that complex process,

經過眾多文化大融合後

its kind of funny to think that we're likely to call something that looks like this fancy pizza.

到底該如何定調披薩，光想起來就覺得有趣

While Neapolitan pizza was rounding out on the Western coast,

在拿坡里披薩傳到美國西岸時

further south in Palermo, Sicily there was a different square shaped pie in the works.

在西西里偏南方的巴勒莫，披薩不是人人常見的圓形，而是方形的

Sicilian pizza is based on focaccia,

西西里披薩的基底是佛卡夏

a thick bread that's often topped with salt, garlic, and herbs.

一種較厚的麵包，上面的配料常為鹽、大蒜、香料

So while it doesn't resemble the iconic pizza emoji,

所以西西里披薩長得不像我們平常使用的圖片符號

this is still pizza, which is important,

可是，西西里披薩仍算是披薩的一種，這點非常重要

because though there are first pizzarias, Lombardi's,

因為縱使第一波開張的披薩店，如美國的隆巴迪

L'antica Pizzeria, Port'alba in Naples, it's tough if not impossible to point to a platonic pizza ideal.

位於拿坡里阿爾巴門的安蒂卡披薩店，理想到近乎完美的披薩店，實在是不能不提到它

There's no single original model that all pizza references.

世上並沒有披薩的原型

The economic climate and poverty stricken population combined with available materials

經濟環境與貧困人口，讓人們就地取材，創造而成

at pizza's genesis to help feed whole families cheaply

「披薩創世紀」開端只是為了養活全家

in a way that was satisfying and nutritional.

至少可以果腹，吃得便宜、健康、快樂

More so than many other foods beyond its central ingredients,

比起必備食材

pizza is historically a culinary solution

披薩是在烹飪史上

to a particular set of economic, cultural, and dietary conundrums

融合金字塔底端貧困階層、文化與飲食困境

which differ between the communities experiencing them.

呈現出與富裕階層的不同樣貌

Pizza may have gone global.

披薩經歷全球化

But it is, in some sense, always local.

同時，也有在地化

Related to the Sicilian slice but distinct

與西西里披薩關係密切

is what is often called the grandma slice, which

卻有著「祖母披薩」的稱呼

admits something great about pizza that I think we rarely confront explicitly.

體現我們平日很少提及的美好

It involves family, maybe not literally,

披薩使家庭更為凝聚，或許不一定限於家庭

but gathering around people and sharing a meal with them.

但的確讓人們縮短彼此間的距離，一同享受美食

I think about this whenever I get a slice from the corner pizza shop.

每次只要我在轉角披薩店買片披薩，都會浮現出這個想法：

What strangers are eating a slice pulled from the same pie as mine?

和我吃著同一盤披薩的人，究竟是誰呢？

Who am I, in some distributed and emergent sense, sharing a meal with?

我正在和同在城市中打拼的哪些人，共享這一餐呢？

Who are my pizza pals, my pie ties, my cheese chums?

誰是我的「披薩之交」、「派派好兄弟」、「起司閨蜜」呢？(譯註：講者刻意押韻)

This is not to say that everything is rosy in the plaza del pizza.

我並不是要說大家都能接受所有的披薩

There are preferences, allegiances, and animosities,

每個人都有不同的偏好、喜歡的口味或是討厭的披薩種類

perhaps none more pronounced than that between Chicago and New York.

但大家很少提及芝加哥與紐約兩區的披薩差異

At the heart of the geographically reinforced pie dispute is thickness.

人們主要爭論論紐、芝兩城不同的披薩厚度，各有擁護者

New York's pizza is thin like Neapolitan.

紐約披薩和拿波里披薩一樣，偏薄

And Chicago's is deep like Sicilian.

芝加哥則像西西里披薩，較厚

Like most things pizza, it's hard to say who did it first.

如同許多事情，我們很難去說誰先誰後

But Pizzeria Uno is confidently implicated somehow

可是「第一披薩店」絕對能光榮地說

in serving the first Chicago style deep dish pizza in the 1940s.

自己是在四零年代第一家提供芝加哥深盤披薩的始祖

Chicago deep dish is often thicker

芝加哥深盤披薩比西西里披薩還要厚

than even Sicilian pizza but still round like a Neapolitan

但仍維持像拿波里披薩一樣圓

and more pie like with a thick, hard crust.

而且餅皮底座像是又厚又硬的脆皮

Jon Stewart famously called it tomato soup in a bread bowl,

約翰．史都華曾稱深盤披薩是「麵包碗裡的番茄湯」

which explains why we haven't removed a slice,

史都華的貼切形容，也解釋為何我們現在沒有切下一塊

because there would be an avalanche of tomatoes

因為如此一來就會像番茄火山爆發

to clean up.

要花一段時間清理

And we still have a lot to shoot.

而且我們還有一大段影片要錄

Deep dish devotees, anyway, counter that it's more flavorful.

總而言之，深盤披薩的腦粉，認為它比較美味

You get more for your money.

cp值也很高

Or simply and inarguably, I just like it more.

講白一點，就是比較喜歡深盤披薩

Back off.

其他披薩都不算什麼！

While the deep versus thin dispute may be notable,

雖然披薩的厚薄爭論是值得注意的事

it is not pizza's sole conflict by any means.

但人們還有別的爭論

Rivalry is practically baked in to pizza consumption.

「敵對」也隨著披薩一同進烤爐了

For one thing, pizza is both customizable and meant to be shared.

一方面，披薩能客製化也能多人共享

Everyone who's ever ordered one has argued about toppings.

所以合點一盤時，每人都能對披薩的配料各執己見

Anchovies over my dead body.

「你敢點鯷魚給我試試看！」

Who likes mushrooms?

「誰會喜歡蘑菇啊？」

Monsters.

「怪獸才喜歡」

For the record, my personal favorite toppings

跟你說，我最喜歡的配料是

are pineapple and jalapeno.

鳳梨和墨西哥辣椒

That is not a joke.

我沒在跟你開玩笑

Then of course, there's the question of where you even get the pizza.

當然還有這個問題──該點哪一家披薩來吃呢？

Even within geographic allies, there's disagreement.

就算有喜歡同一類型的披薩，還是會有不同意見產生

Do you order from Giordano's or Lou Malnati's in Chicago

要點芝加哥的「喬丹奴」披薩店還是「樓瑪蘭蒂」家的

or probably some other place that I've never heard of,

還是乾脆試試看還沒吃過的店

because I don't live there.

抱歉我不住這

Where in New York is the best slice?

紐約最有名的披薩店是哪一家？

Di Fara, Anna Maria, famous Ray's, not famous Ray's?

「迪法拉」、「安娜瑪麗亞」、「雷的名店」、「才不是雷的名店」？

And if it's not a pizza place, is it delivery, and if not delivery, DiGiorno?

如果不能內用，是只限外送的披薩店嗎？如果不是只限外送的店，難道是「迪喬摩冷凍披薩」嗎？

Even if you can agree on toppings,

就算對披薩的配料達成共識

you still have to acknowledge that pizza is today

還是得知道現在一切的披薩

and has been for a long time heavily branded

都是經過一段時間品牌形塑

and aggressively commercialized.

與激烈的商業競爭

This is always my favorite part of eating a DiGiorno pizza.

這就是為何我喜歡吃迪喬摩家的冷凍披薩

Where preferences can be articulated,

人們的喜好都攤在陽光下

they will be commercialized.

這些口味都是經過商業化選出來的

You want pizza bagels, bites, French bread pizza,

想要披薩貝果、芝心披薩、法國麵包披薩

pizza burgers, chips, pretzels, Combos, or gum?

披薩漢堡、薯片披薩、椒鹽披薩、綜合披薩，還是披薩軟糖？

We gotcha.

你的喜好逃不過我的手掌心

How about pizza on things, tattoos and nail art, sure.

還有印在物品上的披薩圖案、紋身、指甲彩繪，可見一斑

But what about pizza shirts, hats, hoodies, sunglasses,

或是披薩衣服、帽子、帽T、太陽眼鏡

socks, shoes, shorts, or a pizza wrap for your car?

披薩襪子、鞋子、短褲或是披薩烤漆的車

We've gotcha.

你看，就說我懂你吧！

Come on, down to pizza town, where everything has pizza on it for some reason.

拜託，到了「披薩小鎮」，一切都充滿披薩也是情有可原

Pizza may be an old world, rustic Italian food.

披薩或許早是人們公認、存在世上已久的義大利鄉村食物

But it's an American phenomenon.

卻在傳到美國才開始造成狂熱

Up through the early 20th century,

二十世紀初期

pizza didn't make it far outside of Italy

披薩還未在義大利以外的地區盛行

except to the immigrant communities that brought it with them.

除了義大利移民社區，披薩一同陪伴的異地新生活

But at the end of World War II, GIs stationed in Italy

直到二次世界大戰末期，義大利的美國駐軍

return home to the United States with a taste for pizza.

回到家鄉，把對披薩的愛一起帶回

And what's more, as Helstosky writes,

此外，如同赫史托斯基所記載

during and after the war, pizza constituted a kind of edible goodwill ambassador,

在大戰期間與大戰結束後，披薩形同「美食外交大使」

repairing fractured relationships between the United States and Italy.

修復美義兩國的殘破關係

Suddenly there was a diplomatic and economic imperative

披薩瞬間成為外交、經濟的必要條件

to saving a service member's cheese lust.

拯救美國軍人對起士的慾望

Pizza was sold as cheap, fun, family friendly,

披薩價格可愛、吃起來新奇、足夠應付整家的食量

marketed as an easy dinner for the busy housewife.

成為忙碌家庭主婦的晚餐新寵

And biggened by the arguably superficial multiculturalism of the '60s and '70s,

在六、七零年代，可以說在多文化主義壯大之下

pizza went from ethnic food item

披薩從民族食物

to product, a process greatly aided by the freezer.

搖身一變為產品，連冷凍食品界都把主意動到披薩頭上

Pizza, now frozen, inert, turns from an edible item

披薩，現在可以冷凍保存了，從一開始的簡單食物

to a sellable thing.

再度變成熱門商品

In addition to the freezer,

除了可冷凍保存外

there was also one other piece of technology

還有一個重要的科技推手

that helped pizzas rise to ubiquity.

幫助披薩更加普及

And that was the combustion engine.

就是「內燃機」

So there's a joke that's in all of the food history books and pizza websites that I read.

我曾讀過一個笑話，廣泛收錄在我所讀過的美食史書與披薩網站上

And it goes something like this.

笑話是這樣說的：

Did you know that the first pizza delivery occurred in 1889?

你知道第一次披薩外送在1889年就有了嗎？

And so you're imagining like some pimply kid

於是你想像畫面：一位有著雀斑的小孩

in a Domino wire wheel pulling up to an Italian villa.

騎著達美樂小車送披薩到比佛利山莊

What actually happened was that King Umberto and Queen Margherita,

1889年的歷史事實是：溫貝多國王與瑪格麗特王后嘗了當時的平民食物─披薩

after whom the Margherita pizza is named,

也是之後瑪格麗特披薩的命名由來

had the first ever pizza delivery

算是史上第一次披薩外送

from Raffaele Esposito's Pizzeria di Pietro e

披薩師傅艾斯波西多所製作的披薩

Cosi, the man and pizzeria considered the birthplace of modern pizza.

也因此奠定當今披薩的雛形

I couldn't find in any of the records,

我找不到任何歷史記載

though, how much they tipped.

也就不知道當初師傅拿到多高的小費了

But it wasn't until 1961 in the American Midwest

直到1961年美國中西部

at Dominic's, later Domino's, that pizza

開了第一家多明尼克披薩，也就是日後的達美樂披薩

forged its interminable relationship with automobiles.

將外送車與披薩鑄造一段緊密相連的關係

Tom Monaghan bought the struggling Ypsilanti, Michigan pizzeria Dominic's

湯姆．莫納根買下當時位於密西根州伊普希蘭提市經營不善的多明尼克披薩

in 1960 for $500 down.

1960年以低於五百美金買入

Monaghan sold his stake in the company in 1999 for $1 billion.

莫納根而後於1999年竟以高達十億美金賣掉公司

Monaghan attributes much of his and the company's success to delivery.

莫納根對披薩外送發展與達美樂披薩可說是勞苦功高

In a 2003 interview, Monaghan explained

一份2003年的報告指出，摩納根闡述

that pizzerias offered delivery until they were solvent after which they stopped.

披薩快遞服務要有足夠的經費才能提供，到倒閉前才能結束這項服務

Where other pizzerias saw hassle,

當其他披薩店看到的是麻煩

Monaghan saw dollar signs.

莫納根則是看到源源不斷的現金流

And he was right but only to a degree.

莫納根似乎只對了一半

The Domino's story is a long and a super interesting one

達美樂發展史是個很長很有趣的故事

even if you don't like their pizza,

就算你不喜歡吃他們家的披薩

longer than we have time to cover here.

故事講起來還比這集影片時間來的長

But I'll put some links in the doobly doo.

我把相關連結放在下方資訊欄裡

Suffice it to say that the delivery racket kind of turned into a death race.

我必須這麼說，披薩外送服務之後變成可怕的死亡賽跑

(譯註：達美樂當時主打「三十分鐘內送達，遲到免錢」)

As local shops and other chains added engines to their roster,

當地商店和其他連鎖店也增加外送服務時，

Domino's got edged off the course.

就沒有那麼多人指責達美樂的「殘忍」了

It was Domino's, though, that popularized the idea that pizza comes to you.

達美樂成功增加我們想到要吃披薩的頻率

Sure you can make it at home.

你當然可以自己在家做披薩

But 99% of people don't.

但我相信百分之九十九的人都不想自己做

I own a pizza stone.

我自己有塊烤披薩用的石板

And I still order pizza from the corner shop on Fridays

可是我還是喜歡點轉角的「Friday's」披薩來吃

because delivery pizza is, in some way, more real pizza.

因為外送來的披薩感覺比較「真實」

And all the pageantry around it, discussing, ordering, waiting,

而且也因一連串的討論、點餐、等待

the arrival, opening the box, which

直到披薩抵達家門、打開盒子

was another hugely important technological development

這又是另一個重大的科技發展

in the commercialization of pizza, all of that,

促成披薩商品化，因為這一連串的期待

is also pizza, which brings us just momentarily

也是披薩帶給我們的，讓我們擁有短暫的快樂

to leftover pizza, what remains on the countertop,

沒有吃完的披薩，就留在廚房工作台上

in the fridge, in the box, on a plate,

放在冰箱、盒子或盤子上

in a stack, covered in tin foil,

全部擺在一起、用鋁箔紙包起來，

or left to the elements on Saturday morning,

或是留到星期六早上

delicious, delicious, left over breakfast pizza.

當美味的披薩早餐吃

Don't fool yourself.

不要再自欺欺人了

Though it was made by the same people as that delivery pizza,

雖然剩餘當早餐的和原本的外送披薩是同樣師傅做的

left over pizza is a different kind of pizza.

「剩餘披薩」竟然也是一種披薩種類

It has undergone a transformation.

「剩餘披薩」經過一段時間的演變

Left over pizza is somehow more indulgent

成為放縱的證據

and maybe a little shameful but no less awesome

甚至還有點羞愧，可是並不減少「剩餘披薩」的魅力

and maybe even more awesome.

而且甚至更有魅力

Leftover pizza is also sometimes surprise pizza.

「剩餘披薩」也是有時讓人驚豔的披薩

Leftover pizza is an artifact that remains,

就像是留下的作品

commemorating DnD games or Netflix marathons,

紀念玩過的龍與地下城(譯註：熱門桌遊)或是看過的Netflix馬拉松

all nighters, hackathons, and various get togethers.

整晚不間斷、駭客松與許多聚會的餘韻

Pizza is so delicious and so powerfully persuasive

披薩實在是太好吃、太有吸引力

in its ability to convince you to just have one more slice

所以會一片接著一片吃下去

because of the presence of naturally occurring glutamates in tomato and cheese.

因為番茄和起士的完美搭配，天造地設的美味

You've maybe heard glutamates referred to as umami.

或許你聽到「味精」會想到「鮮味」

And that is what makes slices so neurophysiologically irresistible.

而從神經生理學來講，這也是為何我們無法抗拒披薩的誘惑

But I might argue there's also a romance to pizza that

但我還是想幫披薩說句公道話：披薩讓生活

makes it so enjoyable, leftover pizza doubly so.

變成享受，「剩餘披薩」更是如此

It's not only laden with that savory flavor magic