I've loved only two.

只有兩種是我的最愛。

That first one,

第一種，

it was more like a passionate affair.

是一種熱烈的情感，

It was a beautiful fish:

那條美麗的魚，

flavorful, textured, meaty,

美味、紋理、肉質都是一等，

a bestseller on the menu.

是菜單上最暢銷的菜，

What a fish.

多麼棒的魚呀！

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

Even better,

更好的是，

it was farm-raised to the supposed highest standards

它是由人工養殖場，所培育出可持續提供的

of sustainability.

最高標準的魚，

So you could feel good about selling it.

賣牠的人也會感到安心。

I was in a relationship with this beauty

我曾經沉醉於這美麗的關係中，

for several months.

大概維持了幾個月。

One day, the head of the company called

有一天，這個公司的高層打電話給我，

and asked if I'd speak at an event

希望我能針對這個養殖場持續提供漁源，

about the farm's sustainability.

發表一場演說。

"Absolutely," I said.

我說：「當然可以。」

Here was a company trying to solve

這個公司正是要試圖解決一個

what's become this unimaginable problem for us chefs:

對我們廚師來說，無法想像的問題：

How do we keep fish on our menus?

如何持續供應魚類餐點？

For the past 50 years,

在過去的50年中，

we've been fishing the seas

我們從各個海洋中捕魚，

like we clear-cut forests.

就像是砍伐樹木，

It's hard to overstate the destruction.

我絕不是誇大它的破壞性。

Ninety percent of large fish, the ones we love --

但我們喜愛的大型魚類裡，有90%的

the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish --

鮪魚,大比目魚,鮭魚,劍魚等，

they've collapsed.

他們的生態遭受重創，

There's almost nothing left.

幾乎沒有剩下多少了。

So, for better or for worse,

所以，不管是好是壞，

aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future.

水產養殖業、人工漁場，都會成為我們未來的一部分。

A lot of arguments against it:

有很多針對這個行業的爭論，

Fish farms pollute -- most of them do anyway --

因為大部分養殖漁場都會污染環境，

and they're inefficient. Take tuna,

而且效率很低。以鮪魚為例，

a major drawback.

最主要的弊病是，

It's got a feed conversion ratio

養殖鮪魚的飼料轉換率

of 15 to one.

是15比1，

That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish

意思是，你要用15磅的野生魚類當飼料，

to get you one pound of farm tuna.

才能養出1磅的養殖鮪魚。

Not very sustainable.

漁場不容易經營，

It doesn't taste very good either.

魚也不好吃。

So here, finally,

最後，

was a company trying to do it right.

終於有一家公司想好好做事了，

I wanted to support them.

我也想支持他們。

The day before the event,

就在那次活動的前一天，

I called the head of P.R. for the company.

我聯繫了公司的公關部門負責人，

Let's call him Don.

就讓我們暫且稱呼他為“唐”吧...

"Don," I said, "just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous

我說：“唐閣下，是這樣的，你們的人工養殖漁場

for farming so far out to sea, you don't pollute."

最有名之處就是設置在遠洋，而且不會產生污染。"

"That's right," he said. "We're so far out,

他回應：“你說的對。我們作業的地點很遠，

the waste from our fish gets distributed,

我們漁場所產生的污染物都被稀釋掉了，

not concentrated."

不會集中殘留在一個地方。"

And then he added,

然後他補充，

"We're basically a world unto ourselves.

“那是我們自己的漁場，

That feed conversion ratio? 2.5 to one," he said.

飼料轉換率？2.5比1，” 他說。

"Best in the business."

“業界中最好的。”

2.5 to one, great.

2.5比 1，很好

"2.5 what? What are you feeding?"

“2.5比什麼呢？你們餵什麼？”

"Sustainable proteins," he said.

他回答道： “可持續性蛋白質。”

"Great," I said. Got off the phone.

“很好。”然後我們掛了電話。

And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought:

結果那晚， 我躺在床上想：

What the hell is a sustainable protein?

可持續性蛋白質是什麼鬼東西呀？

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

So the next day, just before the event, I called Don.

所以第二天，就在那個活動之前，我打電話給唐，

I said, "Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"

我問道："唐閣下，可持續性蛋白質大概是什麼東西啊？"

He said he didn't know. He would ask around.

他說他不知道，他會去問問周圍的人。

Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the company;

然後，我和這個公司裡的一些人通了電話，

no one could give me a straight answer

但是沒有人能給我一個明確的答案。

until finally, I got on the phone

直到最後， 我和他們的首席生物學家

with the head biologist.

通上了電話。

Let's call him Don too.

讓我也暫且叫他“唐"...

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

"Don," I said,

我說："唐，"

"what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"

你能否舉例說明一下，可持續性蛋白質是些什麼東西嗎？"

Well, he mentioned some algaes

然後，他提到一些藻類，

and some fish meals,

還有一些魚肉，

and then he said chicken pellets.

然後他提到雞肉丸，

I said, "Chicken pellets?"

我說：“雞肉丸？“

He said, "Yeah, feathers, skin,

他說：「是的，羽毛、雞皮、

bone meal, scraps,

骨頭、剩料等，

dried and processed into feed."

被曬乾加工後做成飼料。”

I said, "What percentage

我說：“雞在你們的飼料中

of your feed is chicken?"

所占的比例是多少？”

Thinking, you know, two percent.

你知道，我心裡想大概是2%吧。

"Well, it's about 30 percent," he said.

結果他說：“嗯，大概佔30%，”

I said, "Don, what's sustainable

我說，“唐閣下，用雞餵魚，

about feeding chicken to fish?"

這算什麼可持續性？”

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

There was a long pause on the line,

電話的那邊安靜了很長時間，

and he said, "There's just too much chicken in the world."

然後他說，“世界上的雞真的太多了。”

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I fell out of love with this fish.

於是，我不再愛這魚了。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

No, not because I'm some self-righteous,

不，不是因為我是個自以為正直的

goody-two shoes foodie.

偽善美食家，

I actually am.

其實我是這樣的人沒錯。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

No, I actually fell out of love with this fish because, I swear to God,

不，我不再愛這個魚了，是因為，我向上帝發誓，

after that conversation, the fish tasted like chicken.

在那次對話之後，那個魚嚐起來有雞的味道。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

This second fish,

這第二條魚，

it's a different kind of love story.

它是另一種不同的愛情故事，

It's the romantic kind,

是很浪漫的那種，

the kind where the more you get to know your fish,

你愈了解那種魚，

you love the fish.

你就會愈愛牠。

I first ate it at a restaurant

我第一次是在西班牙南部的一個餐廳，

in southern Spain.

吃到這種魚。

A journalist friend had been talking about this fish for a long time.

有一個記者朋友已經和我提到這種魚很多次了，

She kind of set us up.

她可以說是媒人。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

It came to the table

一條白色、

a bright, almost shimmering, white color.

鮮亮透光的魚被端上桌來，

The chef had overcooked it.

廚師煮得太熟了，

Like twice over.

熟過頭二倍之多，

Amazingly, it was still delicious.

但神奇的是，它還是很好吃。

Who can make a fish taste good

誰可以做出這樣好吃的魚，

after it's been overcooked?

而且還是煮過頭的魚？

I can't,

我不能，

but this guy can.

但這位廚師可以。

Let's call him Miguel --

讓我們叫他米格爾，

actually his name is Miguel.

其實他的名字就是米格爾。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And no, he didn't cook the fish, and he's not a chef,

但是，他不是煮魚的人，他也不是個廚師，

at least in the way that you and I understand it.

至少他不是你我認知的那種廚師，

He's a biologist

他是在薇塔拉帕爾馬的

at Veta La Palma.

一個生物學家。

It's a fish farm in the southwestern corner of Spain.

薇塔拉帕爾馬是位於西班牙西南角的養殖漁場，

It's at the tip of the Guadalquivir river.

就在高達爾克維爾河的末端。

Until the 1980s,

直到1980年代，

the farm was in the hands of the Argentinians.

這個漁場還是由阿根廷人管轄，

They raised beef cattle

他們在這裡養牛，

on what was essentially wetlands.

因為這裡原本是濕地。

They did it by draining the land.

當時他們把水抽走，

They built this intricate series of canals,

然後建造了錯綜複雜的運河，

and they pushed water off the land and out into the river.

他們接著把這裡的水排入河流。

Well, they couldn't make it work,

但是，他們沒有成功，

not economically.

我是指經濟方面；

And ecologically, it was a disaster.

在環境方面，則造成了巨大的災難，

It killed like 90 percent of the birds,

差不多90%的鳥類都消失了，

which, for this place, is a lot of birds.

原本這裡的鳥類是很多的。

And so in 1982,

到了1982年，

a Spanish company with an environmental conscience

一家具有環保意識的的西班牙公司，

purchased the land.

購買了這塊地。

What did they do?

他們做了什麼？

They reversed the flow of water.

他們逆轉了水流的方向，

They literally flipped the switch.

翻轉了開關，

Instead of pushing water out,

把原本設計要排水的渠道，

they used the channels to pull water back in.

反過來把水引進來，

They flooded the canals.

用水填滿了這些運河，

They created a 27,000-acre fish farm --

然後建立了一個2萬7千英畝的漁場，

bass, mullet,

裡頭有鱸魚、梭魚、

shrimp, eel --

蝦、鰻魚等。

and in the process, Miguel and this company

在這個過程中，米格爾和這個公司

completely reversed the ecological destruction.

挽救了這次生態災難。

The farm's incredible.

這個漁場真的很棒！

I mean, you've never seen anything like this.

我的意思是說，你從沒見過類似這樣的地方，

You stare out at a horizon

當你凝視著一萬英哩之外

that is a million miles away,

廣闊的地平線，

and all you see are flooded canals

你眼前盡是充滿水的運河，

and this thick, rich marshland.

還有富饒的沼澤溼地。

I was there not long ago with Miguel.

不久前，我和米格爾去過那兒，

He's an amazing guy,

他是個了不起的人，

like three parts Charles Darwin and one part Crocodile Dundee.

¾是達爾文，¼是鱷魚先生鄧迪。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Okay? There we are slogging through the wetlands,

我們步履艱難地進入了濕地，

and I'm panting and sweating, got mud up to my knees,

我是氣喘吁吁加汗流浹背，淤泥淹到了我的膝蓋，

and Miguel's calmly conducting a biology lecture.

米格爾則是平心靜氣地對我說著他的生物學。

Here, he's pointing out a rare Black-shouldered Kite.

他一下指著一隻罕見的黑肩鳶，

Now, he's mentioning the mineral needs of phytoplankton.

一下又提到可以滿足礦物質需求的浮游植物，

And here, here he sees a grouping pattern

接著他又看到一組圖案，

that reminds him of the Tanzanian Giraffe.

讓他聯想起坦桑尼亞的長頸鹿。

It turns out, Miguel spent the better part of his career

原來，米格爾曾經花了很長時間，

in the Mikumi National Park in Africa.

在非洲的米庫米國家公園工作。

I asked him how he became

我問他是怎麼成為

such an expert on fish.

一位魚類專家的，

He said, "Fish? I didn't know anything about fish.

他說： “魚？我不了解牠們，

I'm an expert in relationships."

我只是一個生態關係專家。”

And then he's off, launching into more talk

然後他談起了更多

about rare birds and algaes

關於稀有鳥類和藻類，

and strange aquatic plants.

還有特殊的水生植物。

And don't get me wrong, that was really fascinating, you know,

請不要誤解，那樣的談話真的很吸引人，

the biotic community unplugged, kind of thing.

他說的生態社群這一類的事情，

It's great, but I was in love.

都很好， 但是我心另有所屬，

And my head was swooning over that

我腦中始終惦記著那條

overcooked piece of delicious fish I had the night before.

我前一晚品嚐過，被煮過頭的美味的魚。

So I interrupted him. I said,

所以我打斷他，我說：

"Miguel, what makes your fish taste so good?"

"米格爾，你的魚為什麼那麼好吃?"

He pointed at the algae.

他指向藻類，

"I know, dude, the algae, the phytoplankton,

“我知道， 兄弟，藻類、浮游植物、

the relationships: It's amazing.

生態關係，這些都很神奇，

But what are your fish eating?

但是你餵魚吃什麼？

What's the feed conversion ratio?"

飼料轉換率是多少？”

Well, he goes on to tell me

然後，他繼續告訴我，

it's such a rich system

這是一個很富饒的系統，

that the fish are eating what they'd be eating in the wild.

這些魚吃的就是它們在野外吃的東西

The plant biomass, the phytoplankton,

植物、浮游植物、

the zooplankton, it's what feeds the fish.

浮游生物等，都是魚的飼料。

The system is so healthy,

這個系統非常健康，

it's totally self-renewing.

會進行自我更新，

There is no feed.

不需要任何飼料。

Ever heard of a farm that doesn't feed its animals?

有聽說過哪一個農場不需要餵動物飼料的嗎？

Later that day, I was driving around this property with Miguel,

那天稍晚時，我和米格爾開著車在附近兜風，

and I asked him, I said, "For a place that seems so natural,

我問他，“像這樣一個自然的地方，

unlike like any farm I'd ever been at,

不像其它任何一個我曾經見過的農場，

how do you measure success?"

你如何衡量成功？"

At that moment, it was as if

就在那時，

a film director called for a set change.

彷彿有一位電影導演突然要求改變場景，

And we rounded the corner

我們轉過彎，

and saw the most amazing sight:

看到最美的畫面，

thousands and thousands of pink flamingos,

成千上萬的粉紅色火鶴，

a literal pink carpet for as far as you could see.

就像一張粉紅色的地毯舖向遙遠的盡頭。

"That's success," he said.

他說，“那就是成功。

"Look at their bellies, pink.

看看他們的腹部，粉紅色的，

They're feasting."

他們正在享受盛宴。“

Feasting? I was totally confused.

盛宴？我不知道他在說什麼。

I said, "Miguel, aren't they feasting on your fish?"

我說，“米格爾，他們的盛宴不正是你的魚嗎？”

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

"Yes," he said.

“正是," 他說，

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

"We lose 20 percent of our fish

“鳥類會吃掉我們20%的魚，

and fish eggs to birds.

還有魚卵，

Well, last year, this property

而且，去年這個漁場裡

had 600,000 birds on it,

有60萬隻鳥，

more than 250 different species.

有超過250種不同的種類。

It's become, today, the largest

今天，這裡已經成為全歐洲

and one of the most important

最大且最重要的

private bird sanctuaries in all of Europe."

私人鳥類自然保護區之一。"

I said, "Miguel, isn't a thriving bird population

我說，“米格爾，在養殖漁場裡，

like the last thing you want on a fish farm?"

不是最不想見到這麼多鳥嗎？”

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

He shook his head, no.

“不“，他搖搖頭，

He said, "We farm extensively,

他說,“我們養殖很多生物，

not intensively.

不是集中養殖某一種。

This is an ecological network.

這是一個生態網絡，

The flamingos eat the shrimp.

這些火鶴吃掉蝦子，

The shrimp eat the phytoplankton.

蝦子吃浮游動物；

So the pinker the belly,

所以他們的腹部愈粉紅，

the better the system."

就代表這個生態越好。"

Okay, so let's review:

好的，讓我們重新審視一下,

a farm that doesn't feed its animals,

這個農場不需要餵食動物，

and a farm that measures its success

它衡量成功的方式

on the health of its predators.

是根據它的掠食者的健康狀態。

A fish farm, but also a bird sanctuary.

一個漁場，同時也是個鳥類庇護所，

Oh, and by the way, those flamingos,

喔，而且那些火鶴，

they shouldn't even be there in the first place.

他們原先就不應該出現在那裡，

They brood in a town

牠們的窩巢是在

150 miles away,

240公里外的地方，

where the soil conditions

那裡的土壤狀況

are better for building nests.

較適合築巢，

Every morning, they fly

他們每天早上

150 miles into the farm.

都要飛行240公里來到這個漁場，

And every evening, they fly 150 miles back.

到了晚上，再飛行240公里回家。

(Laughter)

（笑聲)

They do that because they're able to follow

因為他們這樣才能

the broken white line

順著A92號

of highway A92.

高速公路的白線飛...

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

No kidding.

這不是開玩笑。

I was imagining a "March of the Penguins" thing,

我一直在腦海中想像類似企鵝行進的事，

so I looked at Miguel.

我看著米格爾，

I said, "Miguel, do they fly

我說，“米格爾，它們飛行240公里

150 miles to the farm,

來到漁場，

and then do they fly

然後它們晚上

150 miles back at night?