字幕列表 影片播放
BONJOUR, I'M RICK STEVES,
BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, IT'S YACHTS, CASINOS, AND FANCY VILLAS.
FUN IN THE SUN ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
IN EUROPE IS HERE ON THE COTE d'AZUR,
OR THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
AND AFTER SOAKING UP MORE THAN OUR SHARE OF SUN, WE'LL SEE
HOW THIS GLITTERING STRETCH OF FRANCE'S MEDITERRANEAN COAST
OFFERS MORE THAN JUST A FIRST-CLASS BEACH BREAK.
BUT DON'T GET ME WRONG.
WE WILL ENJOY THE BEACH, FROM HIGH-END RESORTS
TO HIDDEN JEWELS OF THE COTE d'AZUR.
WE'LL WANDER THE GARDENS OF A 19th-CENTURY VILLA,
ZIP UP THE CORNICHE
TO SEE A TROPHY OF THE CONQUERING ROMANS,
REFLECT ON THE LIGHT AND COLOR OF MODERN MASTERS,
GO POSH WITH THE GLAMOUR SET,
RELAX IN ANTIBES
AND THEN FEAST ON BOUILLABAISSE.
WHEN EUROPE HEADS FOR THE BEACH,
IT OFTEN ENDS UP ON THE SOUTH COAST OF FRANCE,
THE COTE d'AZUR.
WE'LL START IN NICE,
CHECK OUT VILLEFRANCHE AND CAP FERRAT,
RACE OVER TO MONACO,
VISIT CANNES
AND FINISH IN ANTIBES.
IN THE 19th CENTURY, ARISTOCRATS FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW
FLOCKED TO FRANCE'S SUNNY COTE d'AZUR, OR BLUE COAST.
MUCH LOVED FOR ITS BLUE SEAS AND BLUE SKIES,
THIS WAS THE PLACE FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS
TO SOCIALIZE, GAMBLE AND ESCAPE THEIR DREARY WEATHER.
WHETHER YOU'RE RICH OR NOT, NICE,
WITH ITS ETERNALLY ENTERTAINING SEAFRONT PROMENADE
AND FINE MUSEUMS, IS THE ENJOYABLE
BIG-CITY HIGHLIGHT OF THE RIVIERA.
IN ITS TRAFFIC-FREE OLD CITY, ITALIAN AND FRENCH FLAVORS MIX
TO CREATE A SPICY MEDITERRANEAN DRESSING.
NICE MAY BE NICE,
BUT IT'S HOT AND JAMMED IN JULY AND AUGUST.
WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JUNE,
BEATING THE SERIOUS HEAT AND CROWDS.
THE BROAD PROMENADE des ANGLAIS,
LITERALLY, THE "WALKWAY OF THE ENGLISH,"
WAS PAVED IN MARBLE
FOR BLUE-BLOODED 19th-CENTURY ENGLISH TOURISTS
WHO WANTED A SAFE PLACE TO STROLL AND ADMIRE THE VIEW
WITHOUT GETTING THEIR SHOES DIRTY
OR SMELLING THAT FISHY GRAVEL.
TODAY, IT'S A FUN PEOPLE'S SCENE
WITH A BIKE AND ROLLER BLADE PATH
THAT LEADS ALL THE WAY TO THE AIRPORT.
THE BEACH, WHILE PEBBLY, IS POPULAR.
WHETHER YOU'RE LOOKING FOR AN ADRENALINE RUSH
OR JUST WORKING ON YOUR SUNTAN, THIS BEACH HAS IT ALL.
TAN LINES CAN BE HARD TO FIND
AS EUROPEANS ARE RELAXED ABOUT TOPLESS SUNBATHING.
WHILE MAJOR STRETCHES OF THE BEACH ARE PUBLIC,
MUCH OF IT IS PRIVATE, WHERE YOU PAY TO RENT A SPOT,
COMPLETE WITH MATTRESS, LOUNGE CHAIR AND UMBRELLA.
FOR A PARTICULARLY SCENIC LUNCH,
YOU CAN EAT ON THE BEACH.
I'M HAVING A salade niçoise, THE HEARTY LOCAL STANDARD
WITH ANCHOVIES, TUNA, HARD-BOILED EGGS
AND TASTY LITTLE niçoise OLIVES.
GRACEFUL BUILDINGS FROM THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY
LEAD IN FROM THE BEACH, REMINDERS OF THE Belle Epoque,
LITERALLY, "THE BEAUTIFUL AGE,"
WHEN THE WORLD SEEMED TO REVOLVE AROUND THE UPPER CLASS
AND INDULGENCE WITH ABANDON WAS A LIFE-STYLE.
NICE'S GRAND OPERA HOUSE
ILLUSTRATES THE BEAUTIFUL EXTRAVAGANCE OF THIS ERA.
IMAGINE THIS OPULENT JEWEL
BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN OF NICE WAY BACK THEN.
WITH EUROPE'S ELITE WINTERING HERE,
THE ROUGH-EDGED TOWN NEEDED SOME HIGH-CLASS ENTERTAINMENT.
A PRIME EXAMPLE OF Belle Epoque LUXURY
IS THE MAJESTIC HOTEL NEGRESCO.
IT OFFERS SOME OF THE CITY'S MOST EXPENSIVE BEDS
AND A CHANCE TO STEP BACK
INTO THAT AGE OF EXTREME REFINEMENT.
THE EXQUISITE ROYAL SALON COMBINES Belle Epoque GRACE
WITH ENGINEERING BY THE GREAT FRENCH ARCHITECT GUSTAV EIFFEL.
THE CHANDELIER IS MADE OF 16,000 PIECES OF CRYSTAL.
IT WAS BUILT IN FRANCE FOR THE RUSSIAN CZAR'S MOSCOW PALACE;
BUT, BECAUSE OF THE BOLSHEVIK REVOLUTION,
HE COULDN'T TAKE DELIVERY.
MANY OF NICE'S EARLY VISITORS WERE RUSSIANS,
AND THE CITY'S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH CLAIMS TO BE THE FINEST
THIS SIDE OF THE VOLGA.
FIVE HUNDRED RICH RUSSIAN FAMILIES WINTERED IN NICE
AND NEEDED A WORTHY ORTHODOX HOUSE OF WORSHIP.
CZAR NICHOLAS THE SECOND GAVE THIS CHURCH
TO THE RUSSIAN COMMUNITY HERE IN 1912.
A FEW YEARS LATER, RUSSIAN COMRADES,
WHO DIDN'T WINTER ON THE RIVIERA, SHOT HIM.
HERE IN THE LAND OF OLIVES AND ANCHOVIES,
THE CHURCH'S PROUD ONION DOMES SEEM OUT OF PLACE.
BUT, I IMAGINE, SO DID THOSE RUSSIANS.
[ Orthodox choir singing ]
THE INTERIOR IS FILLED WITH ICONS AND CANDLES.
THE ICON WALL
DIVIDES THE TEMPORAL WORLD OF THE WORSHIPPERS
FROM THE SPIRITUAL WORLD BEHIND IT.
THE ANGEL, WITH RED BOOTS AND WINGS,
IS THE PROTECTOR OF RUSSIA'S RULING ROMANOV FAMILY.
THE HAMMERED-COPPER CROSS COMMEMORATES THE MASSACRE
OF THE CZAR AND HIS FAMILY IN 1918.
THE ICON OF THE VIRGIN AND CHILD
IS DECORATED WITH SILVER AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES.
A PRIEST HERE TOLD ME THAT, AS THE WORSHIPPER MEDITATES,
STARING DEEP INTO THE EYES OF AN ICON,
HE ENTERS A LAKE, WHERE HE FINDS HIS SOUL.
NICE WAS BORN ON ITS EASY-TO-FORTIFY HILL.
FROM THERE, AND INLAND FROM THE BEACH,
SPREADS ITS COLORFUL OLD TOWN.
THE OLD TOWN SQUARES FEEL MORE ITALIAN THAN FRENCH BECAUSE,
UNTIL 1860, NICE WAS RULED BY AN ITALIAN KING.
UNTIL THE MID-1800s, THE PEOPLE HERE SPOKE AN ITALIAN DIALECT.
STREET SIGNS ARE STILL IN TWO LANGUAGES
AND PASTA IS STILL A FAVORITE.
NICE'S ITALIAN RULERS LIVED IN THIS PALACE.
AS THE MODERN NATION OF ITALY WAS BEING CREATED,
THIS REGION WAS GIVEN A CHOICE:
JOIN THE CHAOTIC NEW COUNTRY OF ITALY,
OR JOIN WEALTHY FRANCE, WHICH WAS ENJOYING GOOD TIMES
UNDER THE RULE OF NAPOLEON THE THIRD.
THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE PEOPLE VOTED TO GO FRENCH, AND voilà.
THE OLD TOWN OFFERS
A CULTURAL SCAVENGER HUNT OF OPPORTUNITIES.
FROM ITS MEDIEVAL MARKET SQUARE WITH FRESH SEASONAL PRODUCE,
TO A PASTA SHOP SHOWING NICE'S ITALIAN ROOTS,
TO THE NEARBY PATISSERIE AUER.
ITS Belle Epoque STOREFRONT BRAGS THAT IT'S BEEN RUN
FROM FATHER TO SON SINCE 1820.
QUEEN VICTORIA SATISFIED HER SWEET TOOTH RIGHT HERE.
Socca, A THIN CHICKPEA CREPE,
SEASONED WITH PEPPER AND OLIVE OIL,
IS A PEASANT'S STAPLE PREDATING TOURISM
THAT'S STILL DEAR TO LOCAL HEARTS.
AT THIS BUSY STAND, THE socca ARRIVES BY MOTOR BIKE,
HOT OUT OF THE OVEN, AND IT'S SOLD AND GOBBLED UP
AS QUICKLY AS THEY CAN SLICE IT.
FLOWERS SEEM TO GROW EFFORTLESSLY AND EVERYWHERE
IN THIS IDEAL CLIMATE.
THIS HAS LONG BEEN
THE RIVIERA'S BIGGEST FLOWER MARKET.
FRESH FLOWERS ARE A FINE VALUE IN THIS OTHERWISE PRICEY CITY.
AND WITH SUCH AN ABUNDANCE OF FLOWERS,
IT'S NO WONDER PERFUME IS A LOCAL INDUSTRY.
THE MOLINARD FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING PERFUME
FROM COTE d'AZUR FLOWERS FOR A CENTURY.
PERFUME IS DISTILLED LIKE COGNAC
AND THEN AGED LIKE WINE.
IT TAKES MORE THAN 400 POUNDS OF LAVENDER
TO PRODUCE JUST ONE QUART OF PURE ESSENCE.
FOR THE FRENCH,
FINDING JUST THE RIGHT PERFUME IS A PERSONAL QUEST.
BECAUSE SO MANY GREAT 20th-CENTURY ARTISTS
CHOSE TO LIVE AND WORK HERE, THE RIVIERA IS STUDDED
WITH WORLD-CLASS MODERN ART MUSEUMS.
HENRI MATISSE, MARC CHAGALL, PABLO PICASSO AND MANY OTHERS
RAVED ABOUT THE REGION'S LIGHT AND VIVID COLORS.
THEY WERE CHARMED BY THE SIMPLE LIFE-STYLES
OF FISHERMEN AND VILLAGERS.
THE ARTISTS' COLORFUL AND SEMI-ABSTRACT WORKS
REFLECT THE SLEEPY, MORE DREAMY RIVIERA
BEFORE ALL THE DEVELOPMENT HIT.
THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE SUN
AND PAINTED WITH WIDE-EYED WONDER.
THE MATISSE MUSEUM OFFERS A FASCINATING INTRODUCTION
TO MODERN ART INSPIRED BY THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
HENRI MATISSE OPENED A WINDOW ONTO PARADISE.
ARMED WITH THE BRIGHT COLORS OF THE IMPRESSIONISTS,