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  • BONJOUR, I'M RICK STEVES,

  • BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME, IT'S YACHTS, CASINOS, AND FANCY VILLAS.

  • FUN IN THE SUN ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US.

  • IN EUROPE IS HERE ON THE COTE d'AZUR,

  • OR THE FRENCH RIVIERA.

  • AND AFTER SOAKING UP MORE THAN OUR SHARE OF SUN, WE'LL SEE

  • HOW THIS GLITTERING STRETCH OF FRANCE'S MEDITERRANEAN COAST

  • OFFERS MORE THAN JUST A FIRST-CLASS BEACH BREAK.

  • BUT DON'T GET ME WRONG.

  • WE WILL ENJOY THE BEACH, FROM HIGH-END RESORTS

  • TO HIDDEN JEWELS OF THE COTE d'AZUR.

  • WE'LL WANDER THE GARDENS OF A 19th-CENTURY VILLA,

  • ZIP UP THE CORNICHE

  • TO SEE A TROPHY OF THE CONQUERING ROMANS,

  • REFLECT ON THE LIGHT AND COLOR OF MODERN MASTERS,

  • GO POSH WITH THE GLAMOUR SET,

  • RELAX IN ANTIBES

  • AND THEN FEAST ON BOUILLABAISSE.

  • WHEN EUROPE HEADS FOR THE BEACH,

  • IT OFTEN ENDS UP ON THE SOUTH COAST OF FRANCE,

  • THE COTE d'AZUR.

  • WE'LL START IN NICE,

  • CHECK OUT VILLEFRANCHE AND CAP FERRAT,

  • RACE OVER TO MONACO,

  • VISIT CANNES

  • AND FINISH IN ANTIBES.

  • IN THE 19th CENTURY, ARISTOCRATS FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW

  • FLOCKED TO FRANCE'S SUNNY COTE d'AZUR, OR BLUE COAST.

  • MUCH LOVED FOR ITS BLUE SEAS AND BLUE SKIES,

  • THIS WAS THE PLACE FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS

  • TO SOCIALIZE, GAMBLE AND ESCAPE THEIR DREARY WEATHER.

  • WHETHER YOU'RE RICH OR NOT, NICE,

  • WITH ITS ETERNALLY ENTERTAINING SEAFRONT PROMENADE

  • AND FINE MUSEUMS, IS THE ENJOYABLE

  • BIG-CITY HIGHLIGHT OF THE RIVIERA.

  • IN ITS TRAFFIC-FREE OLD CITY, ITALIAN AND FRENCH FLAVORS MIX

  • TO CREATE A SPICY MEDITERRANEAN DRESSING.

  • NICE MAY BE NICE,

  • BUT IT'S HOT AND JAMMED IN JULY AND AUGUST.

  • WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JUNE,

  • BEATING THE SERIOUS HEAT AND CROWDS.

  • THE BROAD PROMENADE des ANGLAIS,

  • LITERALLY, THE "WALKWAY OF THE ENGLISH,"

  • WAS PAVED IN MARBLE

  • FOR BLUE-BLOODED 19th-CENTURY ENGLISH TOURISTS

  • WHO WANTED A SAFE PLACE TO STROLL AND ADMIRE THE VIEW

  • WITHOUT GETTING THEIR SHOES DIRTY

  • OR SMELLING THAT FISHY GRAVEL.

  • TODAY, IT'S A FUN PEOPLE'S SCENE

  • WITH A BIKE AND ROLLER BLADE PATH

  • THAT LEADS ALL THE WAY TO THE AIRPORT.

  • THE BEACH, WHILE PEBBLY, IS POPULAR.

  • WHETHER YOU'RE LOOKING FOR AN ADRENALINE RUSH

  • OR JUST WORKING ON YOUR SUNTAN, THIS BEACH HAS IT ALL.

  • TAN LINES CAN BE HARD TO FIND

  • AS EUROPEANS ARE RELAXED ABOUT TOPLESS SUNBATHING.

  • WHILE MAJOR STRETCHES OF THE BEACH ARE PUBLIC,

  • MUCH OF IT IS PRIVATE, WHERE YOU PAY TO RENT A SPOT,

  • COMPLETE WITH MATTRESS, LOUNGE CHAIR AND UMBRELLA.

  • FOR A PARTICULARLY SCENIC LUNCH,

  • YOU CAN EAT ON THE BEACH.

  • I'M HAVING A salade niçoise, THE HEARTY LOCAL STANDARD

  • WITH ANCHOVIES, TUNA, HARD-BOILED EGGS

  • AND TASTY LITTLE niçoise OLIVES.

  • GRACEFUL BUILDINGS FROM THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY

  • LEAD IN FROM THE BEACH, REMINDERS OF THE Belle Epoque,

  • LITERALLY, "THE BEAUTIFUL AGE,"

  • WHEN THE WORLD SEEMED TO REVOLVE AROUND THE UPPER CLASS

  • AND INDULGENCE WITH ABANDON WAS A LIFE-STYLE.

  • NICE'S GRAND OPERA HOUSE

  • ILLUSTRATES THE BEAUTIFUL EXTRAVAGANCE OF THIS ERA.

  • IMAGINE THIS OPULENT JEWEL

  • BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN OF NICE WAY BACK THEN.

  • WITH EUROPE'S ELITE WINTERING HERE,

  • THE ROUGH-EDGED TOWN NEEDED SOME HIGH-CLASS ENTERTAINMENT.

  • A PRIME EXAMPLE OF Belle Epoque LUXURY

  • IS THE MAJESTIC HOTEL NEGRESCO.

  • IT OFFERS SOME OF THE CITY'S MOST EXPENSIVE BEDS

  • AND A CHANCE TO STEP BACK

  • INTO THAT AGE OF EXTREME REFINEMENT.

  • THE EXQUISITE ROYAL SALON COMBINES Belle Epoque GRACE

  • WITH ENGINEERING BY THE GREAT FRENCH ARCHITECT GUSTAV EIFFEL.

  • THE CHANDELIER IS MADE OF 16,000 PIECES OF CRYSTAL.

  • IT WAS BUILT IN FRANCE FOR THE RUSSIAN CZAR'S MOSCOW PALACE;

  • BUT, BECAUSE OF THE BOLSHEVIK REVOLUTION,

  • HE COULDN'T TAKE DELIVERY.

  • MANY OF NICE'S EARLY VISITORS WERE RUSSIANS,

  • AND THE CITY'S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH CLAIMS TO BE THE FINEST

  • THIS SIDE OF THE VOLGA.

  • FIVE HUNDRED RICH RUSSIAN FAMILIES WINTERED IN NICE

  • AND NEEDED A WORTHY ORTHODOX HOUSE OF WORSHIP.

  • CZAR NICHOLAS THE SECOND GAVE THIS CHURCH

  • TO THE RUSSIAN COMMUNITY HERE IN 1912.

  • A FEW YEARS LATER, RUSSIAN COMRADES,

  • WHO DIDN'T WINTER ON THE RIVIERA, SHOT HIM.

  • HERE IN THE LAND OF OLIVES AND ANCHOVIES,

  • THE CHURCH'S PROUD ONION DOMES SEEM OUT OF PLACE.

  • BUT, I IMAGINE, SO DID THOSE RUSSIANS.

  • [ Orthodox choir singing ]

  • THE INTERIOR IS FILLED WITH ICONS AND CANDLES.

  • THE ICON WALL

  • DIVIDES THE TEMPORAL WORLD OF THE WORSHIPPERS

  • FROM THE SPIRITUAL WORLD BEHIND IT.

  • THE ANGEL, WITH RED BOOTS AND WINGS,

  • IS THE PROTECTOR OF RUSSIA'S RULING ROMANOV FAMILY.

  • THE HAMMERED-COPPER CROSS COMMEMORATES THE MASSACRE

  • OF THE CZAR AND HIS FAMILY IN 1918.

  • THE ICON OF THE VIRGIN AND CHILD

  • IS DECORATED WITH SILVER AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES.

  • A PRIEST HERE TOLD ME THAT, AS THE WORSHIPPER MEDITATES,

  • STARING DEEP INTO THE EYES OF AN ICON,

  • HE ENTERS A LAKE, WHERE HE FINDS HIS SOUL.

  • NICE WAS BORN ON ITS EASY-TO-FORTIFY HILL.

  • FROM THERE, AND INLAND FROM THE BEACH,

  • SPREADS ITS COLORFUL OLD TOWN.

  • THE OLD TOWN SQUARES FEEL MORE ITALIAN THAN FRENCH BECAUSE,

  • UNTIL 1860, NICE WAS RULED BY AN ITALIAN KING.

  • UNTIL THE MID-1800s, THE PEOPLE HERE SPOKE AN ITALIAN DIALECT.

  • STREET SIGNS ARE STILL IN TWO LANGUAGES

  • AND PASTA IS STILL A FAVORITE.

  • NICE'S ITALIAN RULERS LIVED IN THIS PALACE.

  • AS THE MODERN NATION OF ITALY WAS BEING CREATED,

  • THIS REGION WAS GIVEN A CHOICE:

  • JOIN THE CHAOTIC NEW COUNTRY OF ITALY,

  • OR JOIN WEALTHY FRANCE, WHICH WAS ENJOYING GOOD TIMES

  • UNDER THE RULE OF NAPOLEON THE THIRD.

  • THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE PEOPLE VOTED TO GO FRENCH, AND voilà.

  • THE OLD TOWN OFFERS

  • A CULTURAL SCAVENGER HUNT OF OPPORTUNITIES.

  • FROM ITS MEDIEVAL MARKET SQUARE WITH FRESH SEASONAL PRODUCE,

  • TO A PASTA SHOP SHOWING NICE'S ITALIAN ROOTS,

  • TO THE NEARBY PATISSERIE AUER.

  • ITS Belle Epoque STOREFRONT BRAGS THAT IT'S BEEN RUN

  • FROM FATHER TO SON SINCE 1820.

  • QUEEN VICTORIA SATISFIED HER SWEET TOOTH RIGHT HERE.

  • Socca, A THIN CHICKPEA CREPE,

  • SEASONED WITH PEPPER AND OLIVE OIL,

  • IS A PEASANT'S STAPLE PREDATING TOURISM

  • THAT'S STILL DEAR TO LOCAL HEARTS.

  • AT THIS BUSY STAND, THE socca ARRIVES BY MOTOR BIKE,

  • HOT OUT OF THE OVEN, AND IT'S SOLD AND GOBBLED UP

  • AS QUICKLY AS THEY CAN SLICE IT.

  • FLOWERS SEEM TO GROW EFFORTLESSLY AND EVERYWHERE

  • IN THIS IDEAL CLIMATE.

  • THIS HAS LONG BEEN

  • THE RIVIERA'S BIGGEST FLOWER MARKET.

  • FRESH FLOWERS ARE A FINE VALUE IN THIS OTHERWISE PRICEY CITY.

  • AND WITH SUCH AN ABUNDANCE OF FLOWERS,

  • IT'S NO WONDER PERFUME IS A LOCAL INDUSTRY.

  • THE MOLINARD FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING PERFUME

  • FROM COTE d'AZUR FLOWERS FOR A CENTURY.

  • PERFUME IS DISTILLED LIKE COGNAC

  • AND THEN AGED LIKE WINE.

  • IT TAKES MORE THAN 400 POUNDS OF LAVENDER

  • TO PRODUCE JUST ONE QUART OF PURE ESSENCE.

  • FOR THE FRENCH,

  • FINDING JUST THE RIGHT PERFUME IS A PERSONAL QUEST.

  • BECAUSE SO MANY GREAT 20th-CENTURY ARTISTS

  • CHOSE TO LIVE AND WORK HERE, THE RIVIERA IS STUDDED

  • WITH WORLD-CLASS MODERN ART MUSEUMS.

  • HENRI MATISSE, MARC CHAGALL, PABLO PICASSO AND MANY OTHERS

  • RAVED ABOUT THE REGION'S LIGHT AND VIVID COLORS.

  • THEY WERE CHARMED BY THE SIMPLE LIFE-STYLES

  • OF FISHERMEN AND VILLAGERS.

  • THE ARTISTS' COLORFUL AND SEMI-ABSTRACT WORKS

  • REFLECT THE SLEEPY, MORE DREAMY RIVIERA

  • BEFORE ALL THE DEVELOPMENT HIT.

  • THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE SUN

  • AND PAINTED WITH WIDE-EYED WONDER.

  • THE MATISSE MUSEUM OFFERS A FASCINATING INTRODUCTION

  • TO MODERN ART INSPIRED BY THE FRENCH RIVIERA.

  • HENRI MATISSE OPENED A WINDOW ONTO PARADISE.

  • ARMED WITH THE BRIGHT COLORS OF THE IMPRESSIONISTS,

  • MATISSE CAPTURED THE RADIANT RIVIERA OF THE 1920s:

  • SEASCAPES, FRUIT, FLOWERS AND CURVACEOUS WOMEN.

  • MATISSE WAS THE MASTER OF LEAVING THINGS OUT,

  • LETTING US FILL IN THE REST.

  • MATISSE PAINTED THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL WORLD

  • AS A TWO-DIMENSIONAL PATTERN OF VIBRANT COLORS.

  • YOU DON'T LOOK THROUGH MATISSE ART LIKE A WINDOW;

  • YOU LOOK AT IT.

  • YOU CAN TRACE HIS WORK AS IT EVOLVES.

  • IT BECAME SIMPLER WITH TIME, FROM DETAILED REALISM,

  • TO A COLORFUL IMPRESSIONISTIC STYLE,

  • TO BOLD BLOCKS OF BRIGHT COLORS,

  • TO EVER SIMPLER FORMS,

  • PARING IMAGES DOWN TO TWO BASIC ELEMENTS:

  • LINE AND COLOR.

  • HIS SERIES CALLED JAZZ, LIKE THE MUSIC,

  • CELEBRATES ARTISTIC SPONTANEITY

  • AND THE OTHERWORLDLY BEAUTY THAT ART CAN CREATE.

  • MATISSE ENJOYED A LONG AND CONTINUALLY EVOLVING CAREER.

  • IN HIS 70s, FIGHTING CANCER AND CONFINED TO A WHEELCHAIR,

  • HE TRADED EASEL PAINTING FOR A NEW MEDIUM:

  • PAPER CUT-OUTS.

  • THE CUT-OUTS ARE A SINGLE COLOR WITH A STRONG OUTLINE.

  • SCISSORS IN HAND, MATISSE SAID,

  • "I CUT STRAIGHT INTO THE COLOR."

  • THE CHAGALL MUSEUM IS NEARBY.

  • STARTING IN THE 1950s,

  • MARC CHAGALL PAINTED A CYCLE OF CANVASSES

  • DESIGNED FOR THIS BUILDING.

  • EVEN IF YOU'RE SUSPICIOUS OF MODERN ART, THIS MUSEUM,

  • WITH THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF CHAGALL'S WORK IN CAPTIVITY,

  • IS A DELIGHT.

  • SEVENTEEN BIBLICAL SCENES MAKE UP THE NAVE, OR CORE,

  • OF WHAT CHAGALL CALLED "THE HOUSE OF BROTHERHOOD."

  • EACH PAINTING IS A LIGHTER-THAN-AIR COLLAGE

  • OF IMAGES INSPIRED BY CHAGALL'S RUSSIAN FOLK VILLAGE YOUTH,

  • HIS JEWISH HERITAGE, BIBLICAL THEMES AND HIS FEELING

  • THAT HE EXISTED SOMEWHERE BETWEEN HEAVEN AND EARTH.

  • CHAGALL PAINTS A WORLD THAT'S HIDDEN TO THE EYE:

  • THE MAGICAL, MYSTICAL WORLD BELOW THE SURFACE.

  • HE BLENDS PERSONAL IMAGERY,

  • PARTICULARLY FROM HIS CHILDHOOD IN RUSSIA;

  • THE HASIDIC JEWISH PERSPECTIVE HE ABSORBED AS A CHILD --

  • THAT'S THE IDEA THAT GOD'S EVERYWHERE,

  • IN NATURE, ANIMALS AND EVERYDAY THINGS;

  • GRAVITY-DEFYING COMPOSITIONS,

  • WITH LOVERS, ANIMALS AND ANGELS TWIRLING BLISSFULLY IN MIDAIR;

  • AND CHILDLIKE SIMPLICITY -- SIMPLE, HEAVY OUTLINES,

  • OFTEN SPILLING OVER WITH CRAYOLA COLORS.

  • CHAGALL SAW THE BIBLE AS A SYNONYM FOR NATURE.

  • HIS BRILLIANT BLUES AND REDS

  • CELEBRATE NATURE AND ITS CREATOR.

  • HIS COUPLES ARE ENCHANTING.

  • TO CHAGALL, HUMANS LOVING EACH OTHER

  • MIRRORED GOD'S LOVE OF CREATION.

  • HE WROTE, "IN ART AS WELL AS IN LIFE,

  • ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE, PROVIDED THERE IS LOVE."

  • THE SNUG PORT OF VILLEFRANCHE,

  • IN SPITE OF THE LUXURY YACHTS GLISTENING IN ITS BAY,

  • OFFERS TRAVELERS AN EASYGOING SLICE

  • OF SMALL-TOWN MEDITERRANEAN LIFE

  • JUST MINUTES FROM THE BUSTLE OF NICE AND JET-SETTY MONACO.

  • THIS TOWN FEELS ITALIAN, WITH SOFT ORANGE BUILDINGS,

  • STEEP, NARROW STREETS

  • AND ITS PASTEL HARBOR.

  • WHEN THE ORIGINAL ANCIENT PORT WAS OVERTAKEN BY PIRATES,

  • ITS VILLAGERS FLED INTO THE HILLS.

  • LATER, IN THE 13th CENTURY, THE KING WANTED TO REINHABIT

  • AND THEREFORE STRENGTHEN HIS COASTLINE.

  • TO ENCOURAGE THE VILLAGERS,

  • HE GRANTED THE TOWN TAX-FREE STATUS AND THIS PLACE BECAME

  • "VILLE," TOWN, "FRANCHE," WITHOUT TAXES...

  • VILLEFRANCHE.

  • VILLEFRANCHE WAS PROTECTED BY AN IMMENSE CITADEL.

  • TODAY, BECAUSE MOST OF ITS 8,000 PEOPLE CALL THIS

  • THEIR PRIMARY RESIDENCE,

  • VILLEFRANCHE FEELS MORE LIKE A REAL COMMUNITY

  • THAN NEIGHBORING RIVIERA TOWNS.

  • ONLY A FEW FAMILIES STILL FISH FOR A LIVING.

  • BUT HUGE YACHTS CALL THIS BAY HOME.

  • THIS STRETCH OF COAST

  • IS STUDDED WITH THE FLOATING TOYS OF MULTIMILLIONAIRES.

  • LOCALS KEEP TRACK OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST YACHTS

  • AND TALK ABOUT THEM

  • LIKE THEY'RE PART OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD.

  • YOU NEVER KNOW WHOSE STERN LINE YOU MAY BE CATCHING.

  • HERE'S THE LADY MOURA.

  • MOURA IS AN EX-WIFE OF SAUDI ARABIA'S KING FAHD.

  • SOME OF THE RIVIERA'S PRICIEST REAL ESTATE

  • STRETCHES FROM VILLEFRANCHE TO MONACO.

  • CAP FERRAT, AN EXTREMELY EXCLUSIVE,

  • LARGELY RESIDENTIAL COMMUNITY, FILLS A PARK-LIKE PENINSULA.

  • WHILE YOU'LL NEVER GET PAST ANY OF THESE GATES,

  • YOU CAN SPEND A DELIGHTFUL DAY HERE JUST STROLLING,

  • AND THIS AIN'T YOUR AVERAGE JOGGING TRAIL.

  • FOLLOWING ITS WELL-GROOMED PATH,

  • YOU CAN STUMBLE UPON A HIDDEN LITTLE BEACH...

  • GET A GLIMPSE OF DAVID NIVEN'S HOME...

  • WANDER THE RITZY PORT OF ST. JEAN-CAP-FERRAT,

  • AND TOUR THE ULTIMATE RIVIERA MANSION AND GARDENS:

  • THE ROTHSCHILD EPHRUSSI VILLA.

  • THE EXTRAVAGANCE OF VENICE, VERSAILLES AND THE COTE d'AZUR

  • ALL COME TOGETHER IN THIS VILLA.

  • ITS LAVISH Belle Epoque INTERIOR OFFERS A PEEK

  • INTO THE LIFE OF THE RICH AND ECCENTRIC

  • BARONESS de ROTHSCHILD.

  • BUILDING THIS PALACE,

  • THE BARONESS WENT THROUGH TEN ARCHITECTS.

  • HER FURNISHINGS WERE FIT FOR A QUEEN.

  • IMAGINE THE CORRESPONDENCE COMPOSED

  • AT HER PERSONAL LETTER-WRITING DESK.

  • LADY ROTHSCHILD'S SENSE OF STYLE

  • SPILLED INTO HER BACKYARD, A MANY-FACETED GARDEN.

  • SHE DREW INSPIRATION FROM HER TRAVELS ABROAD:

  • A FRAGRANT ENGLISH ROSE GARDEN,

  • AN EXOTIC FANTASY OF CACTUS,

  • A MYSTERIOUS GOTHIC STONE GARDEN,

  • AND A TRANQUIL JAPANESE GARDEN.

  • OVERLOOKING EVERYTHING:

  • "THE TEMPLE OF LOVE."

  • THIS REGION'S BREATHTAKING COASTLINE

  • IS TRAVERSED BY THREE COASTAL ROUTES:

  • THE LOW, MIDDLE AND HIGH CORNICHE.

  • THE LOW CORNICHE STRINGS PORTS, BEACHES AND VILLAGES TOGETHER.

  • IT WAS BUILT IN THE 1860s, ALONG WITH THE TRAIN LINE,

  • TO BRING PEOPLE TO THE CASINO IN NEARBY MONTE CARLO.

  • THE MIDDLE CORNICHE COMES WITH VIEWS OF IMPRESSIVE VILLAS

  • AND THE GRAND CORNICHE CAPS THE CLIFFS

  • WITH STAGGERING MEDITERRANEAN VISTAS.

  • WHILE HAILED AS NAPOLEON'S

  • CROWNING ROAD CONSTRUCTION ACHIEVEMENT,

  • IT ACTUALLY SITS UPON THE VIA AURELIA,

  • A ROAD BUILT BY THE ANCIENT ROMANS

  • AS THEY CONQUERED THE WEST.

  • A TOWERING ROMAN RUIN CELEBRATES THAT CONQUEST.

  • CAESAR AUGUSTUS BUILT "THE TROPHY OF THE ALPES"

  • TO COMMEMORATE HIS DEFEAT

  • OF THE REGION'S MANY HOSTILE TRIBES.

  • WITH THIS VICTORY, THE COMPLETION OF THE MAIN ARTERY

  • CONNECTING ITALY AND SPAIN WAS MADE POSSIBLE.

  • THIS OPENED THE WAY FOR THE CONTINUED EXPANSION

  • OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE.

  • THE INSCRIPTION TELLS THE STORY:

  • IT WAS ERECTED BY THE SENATE AND THE PEOPLE

  • TO HONOR THE EMPEROR.

  • CARVED BELOW IS AN INVENTORY OF ALL THE FEISTY BARBARIAN TRIBES

  • THAT PUT UP SUCH A FIGHT.

  • AND ON EITHER SIDE ARE THE VANQUISHED IN CHAINS

  • AT THE FEET OF THEIR CONQUEROR,

  • A REMINDER TO ANY WHO WOULD CHALLENGE THE EMPIRE.

  • NEARBY, STANDING HIGH ABOVE THE SEA,

  • IS TOURISTY BUT MAGNIFICENT EZE.

  • THE ONCE-FORMIDABLE TOWN GATE,

  • DESIGNED TO KEEP RAMPAGING PIRATES OUT,

  • LEADS INTO THE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE.

  • THIS SELF-PROCLAIMED VILLAGE OF ART AND gastronomie

  • MIXES PERFUME OUTLETS, UPSCALE BOUTIQUES, COBBLED LANES

  • AND SCENIC PERCHES PERFECT FOR SAVORING A DRINK.

  • THE MORE ADVENTUROUS CAN CLIMB EVEN FURTHER UP

  • TO THE SCANT RUINS OF THE EZE CHATEAU.

  • THE PATHS LEADING THERE HOST A PRICKLY FESTIVAL

  • OF OVER A HUNDRED VARIETIES OF CACTI.

  • LOOKING BEYOND THE FLOWERS,

  • YOU'LL ENJOY A COMMANDING RIVIERA VIEW.

  • JUST BELOW SITS MONACO.

  • WITH BARELY ONE SQUARE MILE OF TERRITORY,

  • IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S SMALLEST COUNTRIES.

  • OF ITS 30,000 RESIDENTS, LESS THAN 10,000

  • ARE TRUE monegasques, AS LOCALS ARE CALLED.

  • MANY OF THE REST CALL MONACO HOME

  • BECAUSE THERE'S NO INCOME TAX.

  • DESPITE OVERDEVELOPMENT, HIGH PRICES AND MOBS OF TOURISTS,

  • A VISIT HERE IS A RIVIERA MUST.

  • AND MONACO IS A WORK IN PROGRESS.

  • THE DISTRICT OF FONTVIEILLE WAS RECLAIMED FROM THE SEA.

  • IT BRISTLES WITH LUXURY HIGH-RISE CONDOS.

  • THE NEW BREAKWATER, CONSTRUCTED ELSEWHERE AND TOWED IN,

  • ENABLES CRUISE SHIPS TO DOCK.

  • AND CARS STILL RACE, AS THEY HAVE SINCE 1929,

  • AROUND THE PRINCIPALITY

  • IN ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS AUTO RACES,

  • THE GRAND PRIX OF MONACO.

  • THE MINISCULE PRINCIPALITY HAS ALWAYS BEEN TINY,

  • BUT IT USED TO BE LESS TINY.

  • IN THE 1860s, IT LOST MOST OF ITS TERRITORY TO FRANCE.

  • BUT THE PRINCE BUILT A CASINO AND MANAGED TO CONNECT

  • HIS DOMAIN TO THE REST OF THE RIVIERA

  • WITH A NEW ROAD AND A TRAIN LINE.

  • HUMBLE MONACO WAS SUDDENLY ON THE GRAND TOUR MAP,

  • THE PLACE FOR THE VACATIONING ARISTOCRACY TO PLAY.

  • TODAY, THE PEOPLE OF MONACO HAVE ABOUT THE WORLD'S HIGHEST

  • PER CAPITA INCOME, WITH PLUSH APARTMENTS TO MATCH.

  • ITS FAMOUS CASINO ALLOWS THE WEALTHY

  • TO ENJOY LOSING MONEY IN EXTREME COMFORT.

  • IF MONACO IS A BUSINESS, THE PRINCE IS ITS CEO.

  • WHILE THE CASINO GENERATES ONLY A SMALL PART

  • OF THE STATE'S REVENUE, ITS MANY BANKS, WHICH PROVIDE

  • AN ATTRACTIVE WAY TO PROTECT YOUR MONEY FROM THE TAX MAN,

  • EARN MUCH MORE.

  • THERE IS NO INCOME TAX HERE, BUT THE PRINCE COLLECTS

  • PLENTY OF MONEY IN VALUE-ADDED TAXES, REAL ESTATE TAXES

  • AND CORPORATE TAXES.

  • NEARLY ALL OF MONACO'S SIGHTS ARE PACKED

  • IN A CINDERELLA NEIGHBORHOOD ATOP ITS FORTIFIED HILL.

  • ITS IMPRESSIVE AQUARIUM,

  • WHICH PROUDLY CROWNS THE CLIFF LIKE A PALACE,

  • WAS DIRECTED BY JACQUES COUSTEAU FOR 17 YEARS.

  • A MEDIEVAL CASTLE SAT WHERE MONACO'S PALACE SITS TODAY.

  • THE PALACE GUARDS PROTECT THE RULING GRIMALDI FAMILY 24/7

  • AND THEY CHANGE WITH THE PAGEANTRY

  • OF AN IMPORTANT NATION.

  • EVERY DAY AT ABOUT NOON,

  • TOURISTS PACK THE SQUARE TO WITNESS THE SPECTACLE.

  • [ Marching music playing ]

  • THE PALACE SQUARE FEATURES A STATUE OF FRANCOIS GRIMALDI,

  • A RENEGADE ITALIAN WHO CAPTURED MONACO

  • DISGUISED AS A MONK IN 1297.

  • THIS FIRST RULER OF MONACO ESTABLISHED THE DYNASTY

  • THAT STILL RULES THE PRINCIPALITY.

  • TODAY, OVER 700 YEARS LATER,

  • THE CURRENT PRINCE IS HIS DIRECT DESCENDANT.

  • MONACO'S CATHEDRAL HOLDS THE TOMBS

  • OF CENTURIES OF GRIMALDIS, THE MOST-VISITED ONE:

  • THAT OF PRINCESS GRACE.

  • THE GLAMOROUS ROMANCE AND MARRIAGE

  • OF THE AMERICAN ACTRESS GRACE KELLY TO PRINCE RAINIER

  • ADDED TO MONACO'S FAIRY-TALE MYSTIQUE.

  • GRACE KELLY CAME TO MONACO IN THE 1950s TO STAR IN A MOVIE.

  • SHE FELL IN LOVE WITH THE PRINCE,

  • MARRIED HIM AND ADOPTED THE COUNTRY.

  • TRAGICALLY, MONACO'S MUCH-LOVED PRINCESS GRACE

  • DIED IN A CAR ACCIDENT ON THE CORNICHE IN 1982.

  • EXPLORING THE RIVIERA BY TRAIN IS FASTER,

  • LESS EXPENSIVE AND SAFER THAN BY CAR.

  • WHILE TRAFFIC IS EXASPERATING AND PARKING IS COSTLY,

  • THE REGION SEEMS DESIGNED TO BE EXPLORED BY TRAIN,

  • FREQUENT TRAINS LINKING NEARLY EVERYTHING WE'RE SEEING

  • IN A SCENIC SNAP.

  • WE'RE CONNECTING THE EAST AND WEST EXTREMES OF OUR VISIT,

  • MONACO AND CANNES, IN JUST OVER AN HOUR.

  • CANNES IS FAMOUS FOR ITS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL.

  • ITS SISTER CITY, NOT SURPRISINGLY, IS BEVERLY HILLS.

  • THIS CITY HAS HOSTED THE FAMOUS CANNES FILM FESTIVAL

  • ANNUALLY SINCE 1946.

  • EACH MAY, AS THE WORLD LOOKS ON, THE CITY'S PACKED

  • WITH FILM PRODUCERS, CELEBRITIES AND PAPARAZZI.

  • WITH EXCLUSIVE HOTELS LINING MOSTLY PRIVATE STRETCHES

  • OF SANDY BEACH, CANNES IS FOR STROLLING,

  • DREAMING OF MEETING A MOVIE STAR

  • AND LOUNGING ON THE SEAFRONT.

  • DON'T LOOK FOR ANY ACTUAL SIGHTS TO TOUR.

  • IF YOU MISSED THE FILM FESTIVAL,

  • THERE'S LITTLE TO DO OTHER THAN SHOP...

  • AND ENJOY THE BEACH.

  • WHILE THERE IS A PUBLIC BEACH,

  • THE MAJORITY OF ITS BEACHES COME WITH A FEE.

  • THE REAL CANNES EXPERIENCE SEEMS TO BE PAYING TO SUNBATHE

  • WITHOUT COMMONERS MUCKING UP YOUR SPACE.

  • WHILE THOSE ENAMORED

  • WITH LIFE-STYLES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS

  • FLOCK TO RESORTS LIKE CANNES

  • OR THE INSUFFERABLY CHIC SAINT TROPEZ,

  • I PREFER ANTIBES.

  • NESTLED BETWEEN NICE AND CANNES,

  • ANTIBES HAS A DOWN-TO-EARTH AMBIANCE RARE FOR THIS AREA.

  • ITS OLD-TOWN CHARMS

  • ARE WRAPPED IN A RAMPART

  • AND WATCHED OVER

  • BY TWIN MEDIEVAL TOWERS.

  • ANTIBES WAS "DISCOVERED" AFTER WORLD WAR I.

  • IT ENJOYED A PARTICULARLY ROARING '20s,

  • WITH THE HELP OF PARTY ANIMALS LIKE RUDOLF VALENTINO

  • AND THE ROWDY, YET EVER-SILENT CHARLIE CHAPLIN.

  • THEY SAY FUN SEEKERS EVEN INVENTED WATER-SKIING

  • RIGHT HERE IN THE 1920s.

  • BEFORE 1860, WHEN NICE WAS UNDER ITALIAN RULE,

  • ANTIBES WAS FRANCE'S LAST FORT BEFORE THE ITALIAN BORDER.

  • THE FRENCH KING MADE SURE THE RAMPARTS

  • WERE STRONG AND WELL-DEFENDED.

  • TODAY, THE FORT PROTECTS

  • A PRICELESS COLLECTION OF PICASSOS.

  • IN 1946, 65-YEAR-OLD PABLO PICASSO WAS REBORN.

  • WORLD WAR II WAS OVER AND PICASSO COULD FINALLY ESCAPE

  • THE GRAY SKIES AND GRAY UNIFORMS OF NAZI-OCCUPIED PARIS.

  • ENJOYING WORLDWIDE FAME

  • AND THE LOVE OF 23-YEAR-OLD FRANCOISE GILOT,

  • PICASSO MOVED TO ANTIBES.

  • HE LIVED AND WORKED IN THIS CASTLE AND ON THIS TERRACE.

  • HE PAINTED LIKE A MADMAN,

  • SWAM IN THE MEDITERRANEAN IN THE MORNING,

  • PARTIED WITH HIS FRIENDS IN THE EVENING

  • AND PAINTED AGAIN LATE INTO THE NIGHT.

  • EVER RESTLESS, PICASSO HAD FINALLY FOUND

  • HIS GARDEN OF EDEN, HIS JOY OF LIFE,

  • AND HE PAINTED IT.

  • IN HIS JOIE DE VIVRE,

  • WE SEE HIS FLOWER CHILD, FRANCOISE.

  • SHE KICKS UP HER HEELS AND DANCES ACROSS A RIVIERA BEACH.

  • FLUTE-PLAYING SATYRS, CENTAURS AND FAUNS

  • ANNOUNCE THE NEWFOUND FREEDOM OF A NEWLY LIBERATED FRANCE

  • AND A NEWLY LIBERATED PICASSO.

  • AFTER DECADES IN THE CITY,

  • PICASSO REDISCOVERED THE JOYS OF VILLAGE LIFE.

  • SHOPPING IN THE ANTIBES MARKET,

  • HE'D RETURN HOME AND TURN GROCERIES INTO MASTERPIECES.

  • WITH HIS DISTINCT CUBIST STYLE, HE CAPTURED SUNBATHERS

  • AND MUNCHING LOCALS.

  • HE WAS FASCINATED WITH THE SIMPLE LIFE OF FISHERMEN.

  • PICASSO PAINTED A PAGAN PARADISE,

  • WHERE CIVILIZED PEOPLE COULD LET THEIR HAIR DOWN

  • AND INDULGE IN SIMPLE, ANIMAL PLEASURES.

  • FOR AN EDIBLE JOIE DE VIVRE,

  • WE'RE FINISHING BACK IN VILLEFRANCHE

  • WITH BOUILLABAISSE, THE RIVIERA'S MOST FAMOUS DISH.

  • THIS SPICY FISH STEW IS BASED ON RECIPES

  • HANDED DOWN FROM SAILORS IN NEARBY MARSEILLE.

  • A TRUE BOUILLABAISSE MUST CONTAIN

  • AT LEAST FOUR TYPES OF FRESH FISH,

  • THOUGH MOST HAVE MORE.

  • THE FISH IS COOKED IN A TOMATO-BASED STOCK,

  • FLAVORED WITH SAFFRON AND WHITE WINE.

  • THE BOUILLABAISSE IS TOPPED WITH A DOLLOP OF GARLICKY SAUCE

  • AND CRUNCHY CROUTONS.

  • TRAVEL, LIKE A FINE BOUILLABAISSE,

  • IS THE HAPPY RESULT OF GOOD THINGS COMING TOGETHER.

  • FOR THE FRENCH RIVIERA, TAKE A VARIETY OF BEACH TOWNS,

  • SPICE WITH MODERN ART,

  • TOSS IN A PINCH OF HISTORY,

  • SPRINKLE IN SOME GLAMOUR

  • AND LET SIMMER UNDER THE MEDITERRANEAN SUN.

  • ALL THESE TASTY EXPERIENCES COMING TOGETHER

  • MAKE THE COTE d'AZUR A CORNER OF FRANCE

  • ANY TRAVELER CAN ENJOY.

  • I'M RICK STEVES.

  • UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

BONJOUR, I'M RICK STEVES,

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B2 中高級 美國腔

法國裡維埃拉。獨特的時髦 (French Riviera: Uniquely Chic)

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    Jane 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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