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Holy shit.
Be careful man.
I'm not kidding. Stop, you're scaring me.
Munchies Guide to Sweden.
New Nordic Cuisine.
Back in 2004, Claus Meyer,
chef and co-founder of Copenhagen's Noma
Together with top chefs form the Nordic region,
came together to write the new
Nordic Kitchen Manifesto.
And the food revolution was born.
The main focus of the new Nordic is fresh,
seasonal, simple, and
most importantly, local ingredients.
This approach has
encouraged chefs to explore new flavors.
And Sweden's food scene has exploded in
recent years.
It's quickly becoming Europe's culinary star.
Exciting new restaurants are opening
across Stockholm,
inspired by the new Nordic philosophy.
At Restaurant Ekstedt, Chef Niklas is employing
traditional Nordic cooking techniques.
Restaurant Ekstedt.
Stockholm, Sweden.
So, Niklas. Ivar Berglin, Munchies.
Yeah. Where are we?
Well, you're at my place.
Niklas Ekstedt. Owner, Ekstedt.
This is my restaurant.
Yeah. And this is like,
kind of like, if you you say flagship restaurant.
How many restaurants do you have now?
Three But
this is your little baby, right?
This is my baby, yeah.
But this one is a little different,
because this one focus on the open fire and
the old Scandinavian cooking techniques.
So tell me about the,
the basics of the new Nordic cuisine.
The new Nordic cuisine is basically
if you'd like explain it simply,
it's like flipping the map upside down.
The European map.
I mean originally every-.
What do you mean by that?
Originally, the chefs in, in the Nordic countries
used to look south for inspiration.
You looked into the like, like French gastronomy,
Italian gastronomy, Spanish gastronomy.
And then you kind mixed it up a little bit with
the Nordic ingredients, and
then that was fine dining high-end cuisine.
Mm-hm. But in the like,
in the mid-90s and the end, end of 90s,
there were a few chefs in the Nordic countries that
got together and said like,
why don't we work 100% with the Nordic products.
So they started sourcing ingredients and
products only from the Nordic countries, Norway,
Sweden, Denmark.
So in terms of like the new Nordic Cuisine,
we're, we're like, we're more focused on the
technical aspect of it than the product aspect.
What you wanna do? What do you like,
fish, meats?
What's your favorite?
That's what I want to do.
Turbot and lobster.
Fish, fish and lobster,.
Fish and lobster.
We get you an apron.
There we go.
That felt better.
Oh, my god.
We don't have a size for you.
Oh, you're so-.
Oh, well, you didn't do it the proper way.
You're so skinny.
Is this like the beginning of the show?
Isn't that really hot?
No, it's not actually.
Okay, you wanna compete?
Okay. One, two, three.
I think you'll have a heart attack.
Ouch. Ahh.
You are mad.
Oh, yeah.
What's that?
I think you add about that much, right?
Boom, in with you.
This is basically how all our cooking starts.
Just a cast iron pan.
Boom. Into the fire and
then we just put in some lobster into the cast
iron pan.
I just like to move things around like this
because it makes me feel like a pro.
It's really, oh.
See? Try and flip it.
Oh, watch out.
Let, let, yeah.
Ivan, let, you put that up.
Hang it up on top of the fire.
And now the fish is all yours.
Oh, they're in? There?
Yeah. When you fry shellfish,
it's really, really quick.
So you just sear it a bit.
And then we hang it up here to give a little
flavor from the birch wood.
The birch is like the, the original way of
cooking in the Nordic cuisine.
I wanted the restaurant to be very old style,
technically wise.
But I wanted the plate to be contemporary.
Mm-hm. I wanted the,
the plating and the food to compete with the best
restaurants in the city.
This is the, this is the flambadou.
Yeah, no joke, this is extremely hot.
Oh, it was extremely hot in there.
No, no, no, no, no.
It's extremely hot in here. No, no, no.
This is really. Don't, I mean,
I'm not kidding.
Okay. Don't burn yourself.
Safety first kids.
Yeah. Okay.
So what we're doing is like we're taking the,
the, the tool out of the fire.
Mm-hm. And
then we adding fat into the, to the,
to the glowing metal.
All right, sounds yummy.
And that, the, the fat will burn and
then land on the hay.
And the hay will burn down
in this meat in the bottom of the hay.
Was that a butter?
Oh, that's cool.
Is there any butter coming out of there?
Blow it out? It's really warm here,
Niklas, come on.
This is totally medieval.
Oh, I missed the flame.
Blow it out.
Oh, I've got smoke in my eyes.
Don't burn yourself.
Oh, blow that one out.
I was blowing on this thing.
I might have burnt it just slightly there,
huh, Niklas?
I think it looks delicious.
Oh, you cut it.
No, you cut it.
You do the honors.
No, you cut it. Oh, that looks so nice.
It's perfect.
It's like Swedish sashimi.
The flambodou, it's my new thing.
I'm getting one for home.
So what's different about this restaurant compared
to your other restaurants?
Well, my other restaurants I tried to
make money.
There you go.
It always comes down to that.
It takes so
much longer to run a restaurant like this.
It's actually pretty stupid.
It sounds stupid, yeah.
Can you tell me something that's
not stupid about the restaurant you own?
The food tastes amazing.
So, the next dish is the lobster that we
cooked earlier.
Hm, the one, the one I did.
Yep. But I'm not getting
the one I did.
It is, it is the one you did.
Oh, really? Yeah.
This is your lobster with some brioche and
turbot with some pickled mushrooms on top.
And actually, my little
thing there looks pretty good.
Taste it.
Come on, taste it.
See if you like it.
A subtle smokiness, isn't it?
It's not bad.
No. It doesn't punch you.
Cuz that's the most the,
that's most important point.
Both from the,
both from the tail of the lobster and, and
with the bread.
You're having a bread in there as well hanging?
Yeah, deep fried in the coaster and pan.
Really sweet, the, the mushrooms, huh?
You're the skinniest guy we've ever had in here.
Just throw that, I'm not-.
Why, you can keep on feeding me.
I have no problem with that.
But this movement isn't limited to Sweden's
It's growing across the country.
So my next stop was Koka in Goteborg.
Koka. Goteborg, Sweden.
Which I'd heard was one of the best
restaurants in Sweden.
In Goteborg, and being on the west coast,
seafood is a big thing.
And it's a big thing here as well, right?
Johan Bjorkman. Head Chef, Koka.
We have like an expression that you dig
where you stand.
So here is the sea,
the sea is just outside the door.
So we can get fresh seafood alive every day,
and that the quality is super good.
Like, people are talking about new Nordic cuisine.
Like to make great food, you need to,
to take what you have in your area.
But you're going,
you cannot find everything here.
But we try to, to take like 30 Swedish miles,
and work with that.
So we got Ugglarp with the vegetables.
And you got the producer of lamb and
cheese and milk and everything here.
It's all locally sourced.
I'm just waiting for my first course.
So here's the first course on the menu.
We got crab.
The claw meat is underneath.
And we got some thin-sliced carrots, and
a, a pate made of crab,
flavored with a horseradish, and
then frozen.
Another hard day at work.
The thing is, this thing is awesome.
I mean horseradish usually just like
takes over a whole thing.
It's just there, like subtle.
So nice.
It's like a crab, like a crab salad but
more refined.
We think that if you come here to Goteborg and eat
it's not that interesting to eat haupia.
It's much more fun to eat something that we
have here.
If you want Hupia, you can go to Spain.
They serve it perfect.
But here, it's better to serve
something that's in our blood.
We have Swedish squid.
Potatoes pure of leeks and parsley,
and then whisk egg yolks with apple vinegar.
Wow, this is the best.
I need to do this with a spoon.
It's just like a spoon full of gooey greatness.
This is my favorite for sure.
So eating in Koka right now was bloody amazing.
I'll tell you that.
Just fantastic.
Its a great example of the new Nordic cuisine
as well.
It's so good.
It is. It is, yeah.
Yeah, I've never eaten at such a place like this.
So did you eat there now?
Yeah-. I just,
I just had dinner there right now.
Yeah. This is the best place
in Goteborg.
Yeah, it is.
I worked in restaurant for ten years.
Oh, really? This is yeah.
That's good. We came to the right spot
then, huh?
Thanks. Have a great evening.
Hey, have a great evening.
Oh, hugs, yeah, of course.
Saved her.
And so, there you got it.
How can you get a better review than that?
Koka, the best place to get new Nordic cuisine in
all of Goteborg.
But the new Nordic cuisine
isn't limited to high-end restaurants.
In Malmo, chefs Pernilla and Jens are putting new
Nordic food on the lunchtime menu.
Nordic Street Food.
Malmo, Sweden. Pernilla
tell us about it in the food you have,
you're serving here today.
Pernilla Emnquist. Nordic Street Food.
Yeah, today, I'm serving Nordic street food.
You should always use your local produce in
season, and keep the food very simple.
And let the produce speak for itself.
Don't cook it too much.
Don't make it too complicated.
All right. If, if you use, for
example parsnip when it's just pulled out of
the earth, in the right season,
it's fantastic flavors.
Instead of, of taking something that they flew
in from somewhere else that's been wrapped in
And you know, it's, it's, it's such a common sense,
actually, I think.
We've been looking abroad because we,
I think we've been pretty bored with our potatoes,
and our root vegetables, and all that.
But then suddenly, we got tired of that.
So then we started to re, to realize that we have
a fantastic kitchen on our own here.
You can actually take the same quality of,
of, of Nordic food that you have in the nice
restaurants to people on the streets.
It was lunch time,
so Pernilla showed me how to cook a seasonal
chanterelle mushroom wrap.
So what you do you take a-.
Handful or-.
Handful, two handfuls without any butter in
the beginning.
If they are really fresh,
they have a lot of water in them, so
you want to get the water out.
Chanterelles are actually my favorite mushrooms.
This is the .So you put it on.
Right now,
you can put on some butter with the mushroom.
Put it here.
Now, you put some sour cream on.
Is this Västerbottensost?
Yes, it's Västerbottensost.
Oh, this is.
But you're gonna, first you're gonna have some-.
It's a great cheese, Västerbottensost.
First, you're gonna have Swedish cheese.
Oh, first this.
You have, you have to listen.
I'm not listening now.
Now, you say, yes, chef.
Yes, chef.
All right. First,
you take some of the sour cabbage.
Put it on there.
And then you take your chanterelles.
So now, it's hot.
Now, you grate the cheese over it.
Yeah, now we get the cheese going.
I'm so excited about this.
And then you also put some of the onions on
top here.
Oh, yeah? In the middle.
Now, you're gonna make that into a wrap.
And now this is where you want the last
bit of the chanterelles, right?
And now, you put the last bit.
This is what I mean to pimp it before
it goes out.
Got to pimp it before it goes out.
It has to be beautiful for the eye too.
Yeah. Right?
Can I try it now or keep holding it?
Eat before it gets cold.
Now you have like all the things in your beard.
Yeah, I bet I do.
Typical street food way of eating.
Yeah, right?
The notion of new Nordic is constantly evolving.
And there's a new wave of chefs in Sweden who
are standing solid on the principles of new Nordic,
but interpreting them in their own way.
Like Andreas Dahlberg.
Bastard. Malmo, Sweden.
Head chef of restaurant Bastard in Malmo,
who is embracing European influences to bring more
variety into his new Nordic menu.
Andreas Dahlberg. Head Chef, Bastard.
I don't really the new Nordic cuisine,
there you go.
It's kind of style of cooking, but
we're not really doing that.
With cooking,
we have more influences from France.
And you know, we keep mixing them up,
mixing it up.
But we use produce from here to do it.
Thanks for having me.
Let the romantic dinner begin.
Huh? Yeah.
Here it comes.
Here it comes.
So this is cured mackerel.
Small tender poached leeks.
Yes, dressed in a mustard vinaigrette,
some boiled egg, and dill.
This looks so good.
We have raw beef.
On knäckebröd, crispbread in English.
This is actually very new Nordic cuisine.
It is, huh?
It is, but I was thinking that.
But it's not stiff.
So dig in.
What do you think the new Nordic cuisine is, then?
Stiff, boring.
Doesn't taste very much, lack of seasoning.
Fry a carrot and put it on a plate and ooh,
that's a dish.
It's food put on a ceramic plate.
When we opened up here five years ago,
we were kind of the bastards in this town.
Because we were doing something
completely different.
Five years ago,
the Molma scene wasn't what it is today.
It's better today.
It's not as good as I want it to be, but
it's getting there.
And we just wanted to start up a restaurant
that we would like to go to ourselves.
How was the food scene back then when you
started, five years ago?
We had all of these restaurants that was
kind of average and boring.
And then we had the really
fine dining restaurants.
So that was kind of nothing in the middle.
And that's where we came in.
What's that?
Kale? That's kale,
cabbage, roasted Brussels sprouts, and we have
the tuna after sauce, the tuna fish sauce.
Dig in.
It's getting better and better.
I think maybe Molma is like, we're so
close to Copenhagen, so
I think that's our big brother, so.
And they're the big, big brother?
Oh, we're, yeah.
Or is there,
there has to be a lot fo exchange between-.
Yeah. Between the countries
down there that's rich in-.
Yeah. Yeah, yeah.
We, we're over there all the time and we have
a lot of Danish people coming here as well.
Drink up.
Okay, boss.
Yes, chef.
All right?
There's no messing around with this guy.
Drink up, eat now, do that, do this.
It felt appropriate that I was ending
my trip at a restaurant called Bastard.
Because it defines how, for a long time,
Sweden's cuisine was perceived from outside.
Not sure of its identity, and
looked down on by the rest of Europe.
I'm so full.
It just kept on coming, the dishes.
Oh, man.
But as I've traveled up and
down my long and varied country,
I've discovered a Swedish culinary identity that's
redefining itself.
But never forgetting where it has come from.
From the indigenous army people to spettekaka,
I've found my country's protective
of its traditions and proud of its quirks.
I think we'll always love our pickled herring and
our hearty food like meat and potatoes,
as our history has always
been important to our food here.
Even as far back as the vikings.
But we're ready for something new.
And today's chefs are the neo-vikings.
Looking right where they are for
the best ingredients and
creatively using our culinary past to redefine
its future.
New Nordic cuisine is continuing to evolve and
it's an exciting time to be eating in Sweden.
But after all that food and traveling,
I'm pretty full and exhausted right now.
So there's only one thing for it.
Hot tub time.
A Munchies Production.
2015 Vice Media, LLC.


【異國文化】瑞典頂級名廚:新派北歐料理 (Top Chefs in Sweden: The New Nordic Cuisine (Part 5))

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Sū-guân Âng 發佈於 2015 年 6 月 22 日
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