This is a classic night market.

這是一個典型的夜市。

We are at Jilong Miao Kou Night Market in the city of Jilong, about 30 minutes outside of Taipei.

我們現在位於基隆市的基隆廟口夜市，距離臺北約 30 分鐘車程。

We're gonna show you how to eat like chefs at a night market.

我們將教你如何像廚師一樣在夜市用餐。

And you know what?

你知道嗎？

It's probably not gonna cost us over $25.

可能不會超過 25 美元。

油饭已经到了。

油飯已經到了。

So, 油饭 is sticky rice.

所以，"油飯 "就是糯米飯。

Yeah.

是啊

Any night market, they're gonna specialize in one or two dishes.

任何一個夜市，都會有一兩樣特色菜。

This stall is known for their crab soups, but we don't wanna fill up.

這家攤位以蟹湯聞名，但我們不想吃得太飽。

Uh-huh.

嗯哼

Skip it.

跳過。

I think we skip the soup.

我想我們就不喝湯了。

We do the rice, but we try to finesse our way to let them put the crab onto the rice.

我們會做米飯，但我們會想辦法讓他們把螃蟹放到米飯上。

So, chef introduced us to their house-made chili oil.

於是，廚師向我們介紹了他們自制的辣椒油。

This looks like it's actually spicy.

這看起來真的很辣。

Anything in Taiwan that's pasty and comes in a sauce bottle and they tell you it's spicy, don't believe them.

在臺灣，只要是糊狀的、裝在醬汁瓶裡的東西，只要他們告訴你是辣的，你就別信。

These crab claws have taken apart perfectly.

這些蟹鉗拆卸得非常完美。

Or these crab legs, rather.

或者說是這些蟹腿。

Yeah, crab legs, for sure.

是啊，蟹腿，當然。

What, no cheese?

什麼，沒有奶酪？

Very rude.

非常粗魯。

I couldn't stand it.

我受不了了。

太香了。

太香了。

So much umami.

如此多的鮮美。

I've had versions of this before where it can just be too heavy because the sticky rice is extra starchy and all these things.

我以前吃過這種做法，因為糯米含澱粉特別多，所以會顯得太重。

But the punch of the chili oil, the bright herbaceousness of the cilantro, really complements the flavor.

不過，辣椒油的香味和香菜的清香，真的是相得益彰。

It's kind of like fried rice, right?

這有點像炒飯，對吧？

Every single grain is distinct.

每一粒糧食都是獨一無二的。

It's the perfect amount of stickiness.

它的粘性恰到好處。

This entire order, $115 Taiwan dollars, which is how much, quick maths?

整個訂單，115 臺幣，一共多少錢？

A little bit under $4.

略低於 4 美元。

So, yeah, four bucks.

所以，是的，四塊錢。

Okay, let's go on to the next.

好了，我們繼續下一個。

Oh, we should try pao pao bean.

哦，我們應該嚐嚐包包豆。

Kind of like a combination of Italian ice and cold stone.

有點像意大利冰和冷石的結合。

Cool.

酷斃了

Pao pao means bubble.

Pao pao 意思是泡泡。

I don't know exactly why it's called pao pao bean, but they shave ice, like regular shaved ice.

我不知道它到底為什麼叫包包豆，但他們刨冰，就像普通的刨冰一樣。

We should do one dairied version and one without dairy.

我們應該做一個有奶版本和一個無奶版本。

That green mango looks kind of fun.

那個綠芒果看起來挺好玩的。

Or peanut?

還是花生？

Let's do peanut.

讓我們做花生吧。

I'm a big peanut guy.

我喜歡吃花生。

Okay.

好的

The machine is quickly shaving down a block of ice into very fine, fine, fine sheet strands into a bowl of egg yolks, condensed milk, and syrup.

機器正快速地將一塊塊冰塊刨成極細、極細、極細的片狀，放入盛有蛋黃、煉乳和糖漿的碗中。

He's constantly mixing it to make sure that the flavor's incorporated, but basically, he's making ice cream to order.

他不斷攪拌，以確保味道融入其中，但基本上，他是按訂單製作冰淇淋。

The ice is melting just at the very surface level because once the new layer of ice reaches the top, the bottom is solidified and it's very, very cold.

冰層只是在最表層融化，因為一旦新的冰層到達頂部，底部就會凝固，非常非常寒冷。

And if you look at the ice itself, it's completely clear.

如果你看看冰本身，它是完全透明的。

That means there's no air inside at all, whatsoever.

這意味著裡面根本沒有空氣。

It's gonna be as creamy as possible without really the traditional technique of using a custard in making ice cream.

在製作冰淇淋的過程中，不使用傳統的奶油凍技術，而是儘可能地讓冰淇淋變得細膩。

This is fantastic.

這真是太棒了。

This is really cool.

這真的很酷。

Phenomenal action right here.

這裡的動作非常精彩。

Gorgeous.

美輪美奐。

I mean, it looks like Italian ice, but it looks like sorbet.

我的意思是，它看起來像意大利冰，但又像冰糕。

It looks like gelato.

看起來像冰淇淋。

It's like a cloud.

它就像一朵雲。

It's like fluffy.

就像蓬鬆的一樣。

That's what the pop-pop comes from.

這就是流行音樂的由來。

It's like foamy, right?

就像保麗龍一樣，對嗎？

It's like a bubble.

這就像一個保麗龍。

You expect a harder texture, but...

你本以為質地會更硬，但...

Yummy.

真好吃

Yummy.

真好吃

If you think about it, it's all the ingredients in ice cream.

仔細想想，這就是冰淇淋的所有成分。

Egg, syrup, condensed milk.

雞蛋、糖漿、煉乳。

This is the perfect way to break up a long night at the night market.

這是在夜市度過漫漫長夜的最佳方式。

It feels like a lot, but it's not.

感覺很多，其實不然。

Yeah, it's very, very fluffy.

是啊，非常非常蓬鬆。

55 NT for one cup, which is about $2-ish.

一杯 55 新臺幣，約合 2 美元左右。

Yeah, I mean.

我是說

What a bargain.

太便宜了

If you look at the flavors they offer and look at the space, it really sings having the most amount of variety while maximizing the space.

如果你看看他們提供的口味，再看看他們的空間，就會發現他們確實在最大限度地利用空間的同時，還能提供最豐富的品種。

Creativity and ingenuity.

創造力和獨創性。

Give it a shot, sir.

試試吧，先生

Let's see.

讓我們看看

I would travel from Taipei to Keelung just to eat here.

我願意從臺北跑到基隆，只為在這裡吃一頓飯。

Ji Jia Zhu Jiao.

Ji Jia Zhu Jiao.

Pork knuckles and a little bit of broth and a little bit of noodles.

豬肘子、一點肉湯和一點麵條。

Delicious.

真好吃

So good.

好極了

It is the quintessential way of eating pork, in my opinion.

在我看來，這是豬肉的典型吃法。

She's making noodles over there, but there are two big vats of what looks like pork trotter and pork hock, right?

她在那邊做麵條，但有兩大桶看起來像豬蹄和豬肉的東西，對嗎？

Yes.

是的。

On the right over here, we have trotter, which is bonier, but has more skin.

右邊的是蹄膀肉，它的骨頭更多，但皮更厚。

It's actually more expensive in Taiwan to purchase trotters.

在臺灣購買蹄膀其實更貴。

These are smaller and less quantity.

它們體積更小，數量更少。

Hocks are a little bit less priced, but some people like meatier stuff, some people like more skin.

雞腿的價格稍低，但有些人喜歡肉多的，有些人喜歡皮多的。

Chef is taking apart the pork hock, the connecting part between the trotter and the shoulder on the front of the pig.

廚師正在拆卸豬蹄，豬蹄是豬前蹄和豬肩之間的連接部分。

Kind of like the forearm.

有點像前臂。

Exactly.

沒錯。

Splitting it into half, taking the bone out because he wants to leave the boneless part to slice into thinner chunks that are re-warmed in the soup for service.

把它劈成兩半，去掉骨頭，因為他想留下無骨的部分，切成較薄的塊狀，在湯中重新加熱後食用。

The broth you see is a master stock of bone broth and gelatin in the trotter and the hock.

您所看到的肉湯是由骨頭湯和蹄膀中的明膠熬製而成的高湯。

Oh my goodness.

我的天啊

Look at that.

看看這個。

It has absolutely no seasoning at all.

完全沒有任何調味料。

It looks a lot like tonkotsu because it's got that emulsification, right?

它看起來很像冬陰功湯，因為它有乳化作用，對嗎？

It means that that fat and that water has come together, held together by that gelatin that's broken down from cooking these hocks and these trotters for a very, very long time.

這意味著脂肪和水分已經融合在一起，並被明膠固定在一起，而明膠是在烹飪這些牛腿和牛蹄很久很久後分解出來的。

The broth takes 24 hours, and the hock and the trotter really only takes about two to three hours to cook.

肉湯需要 24 小時熬製，而蹄膀和蹄膀實際上只需要兩三個小時就能煮熟。

But it's the broth that it's poached in that gives it all the porky umami that you really don't get if you don't have this flavorful, flavorful broth.

但是，正是水煮豬肉的肉湯賦予了豬肉鮮美的味道，如果沒有這種鮮美的肉湯，你真的無法品嚐到豬肉的鮮美。

The noodle is...

麵條是...

The seasoning is very simple.

調味非常簡單。

This is a garlic soy sauce, and this is lard that's been rendered with shallots and garlic.

這是蒜蓉醬油，是用蔥和蒜醃製的豬油。

We just put in our order.

我們剛下了訂單。

Let's go upstairs for food.

我們上樓吃點東西吧

I'm so excited.

我太激動了

Oh!

哦！

There it is.

就在那兒。

Oh my goodness, dude.

哦，我的上帝，夥計。

Oh, and the noodle.

哦，還有面條。

Honestly, I know you've been harping on about this soup, but I'm mostly excited about the noodles.

老實說，我知道你一直在嘮叨這道湯，但我主要還是對面條感到興奮。

You see this broth?

看到這肉湯了嗎？

You see that it's a little bit milky, it's a little bit creamy.

你看，它有點乳白色，有點奶油味。

It's gonna be thick, it's gonna have a little bit of body.

會很厚實，會有一點體感。

It's served with a little bit of a dipping sauce on the side.

邊上還有一點蘸醬。

Yeah, kind of like a Maggi.

是的，有點像 Maggi。

Maggi plus more seasoning.

Maggi 加上更多調味料。

Like a seasoned soy sauce.

就像調味醬油。

Yeah, it's a little bit of a Maggi.

是的，有點像 Maggi。

Like a seasoned soy sauce.

就像調味醬油。

And a little bit of chili peppers.

還有一點辣椒。

So the two parts you can tell, this is a hawk, right?

從這兩個部分可以看出，這是一隻鷹，對嗎？

Yeah.

是啊

Boneless, meaty, nice separation between flesh, tendon, fat, and skin.

無骨，肉質鮮美，肉、筋、脂肪和皮之間分離良好。

And a thick layer of skin.

還有一層厚厚的皮膚。

Yeah.

是啊

And then this is the trotter.

然後這是小蹄鐵。

This is the trotter, where you get a lot of bone, obviously, but you have tendon, you have a lot of collagen, but most importantly is the marrow in here.

這是蹄膀，這裡顯然有很多骨頭，也有肌腱和膠原蛋白，但最重要的是這裡的骨髓。

They split right down the middle, and you still get to eat some of that pork marrow, and that's the best part of any animal.

它們從中間裂開，你還能吃到一些豬骨髓，那是任何動物身上最美味的部分。

Even though it looks like a soup, there really isn't enough soup to be considered a soup dish.

雖然它看起來像一道湯，但湯的份量實在不足以被視為一道湯菜。

It's a pork dish that's served with a soup, the broth that was cooked inside.

這是一道配湯的豬肉菜，湯就是裡面煮的肉湯。

Exactly.

沒錯。

Walk me through what's in these noodles again.

再給我講講這些麵條裡都有什麼。

So it's sort of like a somen.

所以它有點像蘇面。

It's hóng miàn xiàn.

是 hóng miàn xiàn.

Noodles, heavily salted, and then dried under the sun.

用鹽醃製後晒乾的麵條。

And that's where they pick up this brown color, right?

它們就是在這裡染上這種棕色的，對嗎？

Yes, that's where the proteins begin to sort of cook, and then it becomes stronger.

是的，這就是蛋白質開始熟化的地方，然後它就會變得更強。

The minute you toss it together, there's this like poof of steam, and poof of garlic and soy sauce.

把它倒在一起的那一刻，就像 "噗 "的一聲冒出蒸汽，"噗 "的一聲冒出大蒜和醬油。

It's ridiculous.

太荒謬了

Okay.

好的

Bye.

再見。

Thank you, thank you.

謝謝，謝謝。

Yum.

百勝

Jù yóu miàn.

Jù yóu miàn.

This is impeccable.

這是無可挑剔的。

The noodle itself is not too baking soda-y.

麵條本身沒有太多烘焙蘇打味。

Yeah.

是啊

It's bouncy, and it's got texture, and it's thin, but...

它有彈性，有質感，很薄，但...

But it's just tender enough, right?

但它已經足夠嫩了，對嗎？

Not overly al dente, not overly soft.

不會太硬，也不會太軟。

So this, in total, was 250 Taiwan dollars.

是以，這總共是 250 臺幣。

Seven, seven baht?

七，七泰銖？

Eight bucks.

八塊錢

Eight bucks, eight bucks.

八塊 八塊

For a Cantonese boy like myself, this is very, very nourishing.

對於像我這樣的廣東男孩來說，這是非常非常有營養的。

Okay.

好的

Oyster omelet.

牡蠣煎蛋卷

You grew up eating this?

你是吃這個長大的？

I grew up coming to Taiwan a lot, and my favorite thing was always the oyster omelet, because you can't get it anywhere else.

我從小就經常來臺灣，最喜歡吃的總是蚵仔煎，因為在其他地方吃不到。

Not like this, at least.

至少不是這樣

If you look at the way they make it, they sear off the oyster first, on the cast iron skillet, and then the batter goes on.

如果你看看他們的製作方法，他們會先在鑄鐵平底鍋上烤掉牡蠣，然後再上面糊。

Even if you're not buying those oysters, you're getting that flavor of the sea.

即使你不買牡蠣，也能品嚐到大海的味道。

It's gonna be crispy, and it's gonna be gooey.

會很酥脆，也會很粘稠。

It's not just crispy.

不僅僅是酥脆。

Sauce A is probably a garlic soy paste, and Sauce B is a sweet...

調味汁 A 可能是蒜蓉醬油，而調味汁 B 則是甜味的...

Xie xie, xie xie.

解解，解解。

Sauce B is a sweet, ketchup-y, lightly spicy miso-based sauce.

B 醬是一種甜味、番茄醬味、微辣的味噌醬。

Look at this.

看看這個。

It's called hai shan jiao.

這就是所謂的 "海山角"。

Yeah, there we go.

對，就是這樣。

There we go.

好了

This is what we're looking for.

這就是我們要找的。

This exact texture.

就是這種質地。

Quintessential oyster omelet.

經典牡蠣煎蛋卷

Very popular in terms of texture for all of Taiwanese food.

在所有臺灣食品中，口感非常受歡迎。

Caramelized starched.

焦糖化的星狀物。

Putting it mildly.

說得輕巧些。

Sweet, salty, tangy, sour.

甜、鹹、香、酸。

Dude, I love that goo.

老兄，我喜歡那個粘液。

It is so...

真是...

Something about the elasticity that turns into a robust chew, but with a little bit of crisp, and a little bit of sweetness.

它的彈性讓人咀嚼起來很有勁道，但又帶著一點脆和一點甜。

And then the last bit is the brininess of the oysters.

最後一點是牡蠣的滷味。

So good.

好極了

It just feels like a lot of Taiwan, a lot of texture, a lot of flavor.

它給人的感覺就是有很多臺灣、很多質感、很多味道。

The full range represented in one bite.

一口就能代表所有系列。

Don't mind me, I'm just gonna have to finish this.

別管我，我得把這個做完

And this, 80 Taiwan dollars, which is about $2.50 in the States.

這個，80 臺幣，在美國約合 2.5 美元。

270, 260 these days.

270, 260 these days.

Quick maths.

快速計算

Delicious.

真好吃

Finishing this.

完成這個。

What else do we have?

我們還有什麼？

Yeah, so this is actually very interesting.

是啊，所以這其實非常有趣。

It says tian fu luo, but in Taiwan it's known as tian bu la.

上面寫著 tian fu luo，但在臺灣卻被稱為 tian bu la。

Okay, sweet, not spicy.

好吧，是甜的，不是辣的。

Makes no sense, but it's just...

毫無意義，但這只是...

Is this a Japanese thing?

這是日本人的專利嗎？

So basically what it is is just fried fish cake.

是以，它基本上就是煎魚餅。

So fish mixed in with a bunch of starches like tapioca, sometimes potato, sometimes rice.

是以，魚和木薯、洋芋、大米等澱粉混合在一起。

Aromatics inside, season it, and then fry it.

在裡面加入芳香劑，調味，然後油炸。

Yeah.

是啊

You know what?

你知道嗎？

It's so fresh.

太新鮮了

The manipulation here is of texture.

這裡的處理是紋理的處理。

And when you manipulate texture, the question is how much starch you're adding and how fresh is it gonna be.

當你處理質地時，問題是你要添加多少澱粉，以及它有多新鮮。

I think this is interesting.

我覺得這很有趣。

It's cool.

太酷了

For a little snack, for like 40, not bad.

小點心，40 塊錢，還不錯。

The way we need to appreciate this is the texture.

我們需要從紋理中體會這一點。

And this is q, the quintessential Taiwanese palate.

這就是 q，典型的臺灣味。

You see that?

看到了嗎？

The elasticity with tenderness.

有彈性，有柔韌性。

That is q.

這就是 q。

And this, if you ever come to Taiwan, is what you're looking for.

如果你來臺灣，這就是你要找的。

The idea is that you have all this fish.

我們的想法是，你有這麼多魚。

Fish is all this protein.

魚就是這些蛋白質的全部。

You're manipulating, you're beating it until those protein strands are nice and long.

你要操縱它，你要打它，直到這些蛋白質絲變得又長又漂亮。

And with the addition of the starch, it's all stabilized before it becomes this paste.

加入澱粉後，一切都會穩定下來，然後再變成這種糊狀。

It gets fried, and then that's where the bounce comes from.

它被燒焦了，就會產生反彈。

It's trapping air, it's trapping moisture, it's trapping all these things to create this bouncy texture.

它能阻隔空氣，阻隔水分，阻隔所有這些東西，從而創造出這種富有彈性的質地。

Delicious.

真好吃

All right, cool.

好吧，酷。

Okay, next bite.

好了，下一口。

Every time I come back to Taiwan, my favorite thing to eat on the street is zhu xie gao.

每次回臺灣，我最喜歡在街上吃的就是竹絲糕。

I'm looking at it right here.

我正在看呢

Pig's blood cake.

豬血蛋糕

Lao ban, ma fan lai yi zhi, xie xie.

Lao ban, ma fan lai yi zhi, xie xie.