字幕列表 影片播放
Central Park is the most famous city park in the world.
中央公園是世界上最著名的城市公園。
But did you know, of its 843 acres, every single tree, shrub, and flower were placed by design and not by nature?
但你知道嗎,在這 843 英畝的土地上,每一棵樹、每一株灌木、每一朵花都是精心設計而非自然擺放的。
I'm Michael Weitzner.
我是 Michael Weitzner。
I've been an architect in New York City for over 35 years.
我在紐約當建築師已經超過 35 年了。
And today, I'm gonna show you some of the hidden details that make Central Park the greatest metropolitan park in the world.
今天,我將向大家展示一些不為人知的細節,它們讓中央公園成為世界上最偉大的都市公園。
In the 1840s, the concept for a large-scale park in Manhattan was proposed by poet William Cullen Bryant and one of the fathers of American landscape architecture, Andrew Jackson Downing.
1840 年代,詩人威廉-卡倫-布萊恩特(William Cullen Bryant)和美國景觀建築之父安德魯-傑克遜-唐寧(Andrew Jackson Downing)提出了在曼哈頓建造大型公園的構想。
Their dream would come to life in the 1850s when the city of New York held a design competition for the Central Park on the island of Manhattan.
1850 年代,紐約市為曼哈頓島上的中央公園舉辦了一次設計競賽,他們的夢想終於實現了。
Over 30 entries were submitted, and the ultimate winner was the park as we know it today, designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted and architect Calvert Vaux.
提交的參賽作品超過 30 件,最終勝出的作品就是我們今天所熟知的公園,由景觀設計師弗雷德裡克-勞-奧姆斯特德和建築師卡爾弗特-沃克斯設計。
Behind me is the Derry.
我身後是德里號。
This may not be one of the most famous buildings in the park, but it has a tangible connection to one of the initial requirements of the design competition.
這可能不是公園裡最著名的建築之一,但它與設計競賽的最初要求之一有著切實的聯繫。
And it's part of what made Vaux and Olmsted's design so ingenious and distinct from the other submissions.
這也是沃克斯和奧姆斯特德的設計獨具匠心、與眾不同的原因之一。
This building is in the center of the Children's District, which was incorporated into the design after the competition in order to accommodate younger visitors to the park.
這座建築位於兒童區的中心,是在競賽後納入設計的,目的是為公園的年輕遊客提供便利。
The Derry was a place for children to have access to fresh milk, which at the time in the late 1800s was not something everybody had.
德里是一個讓孩子們喝上新鮮牛奶的地方,而在 19 世紀晚期,當時並不是每個人都能喝上新鮮牛奶。
And you can see it has a bit of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale feeling to it.
你可以看到,它有點像格林兄弟的童話故事。
But there's another part of this building that you can't see, that extends down two stories to the ground just on the other side of that fence, where it meets one of the transverse roads that allow traffic to cut through the park.
但這棟建築還有一部分是你看不到的,它有兩層樓高,就在柵欄的另一側,與一條橫向道路相接,這條道路可以讓車輛穿過公園。
A transverse road is basically just a road that allows traffic to cross through the park, which is important because the park covers 51 city blocks north to south.
橫向道路基本上就是一條允許車輛穿過公園的道路,這一點非常重要,因為公園南北覆蓋了 51 個街區。
The original design competition required a minimum of four transverse roads across the park.
最初的設計競賽要求公園內至少有四條橫向道路。
Everybody else essentially left them on the surface, which cut the park into basically five equal pieces.
其他人基本上都把它們留在了地面上,這就把公園切割成了基本上相等的五塊。
Vaux and Olmsted's design was the only one that designed them in such a way that the traffic would be on a lower level than the rest of the park, essentially submerging them so that the immersion in nature of park guests would not be disturbed.
沃克斯和奧姆斯特德的設計是唯一一個將交通設計在比公園其他部分更低位置的設計,基本上是將其淹沒,這樣就不會影響公園遊客沉浸在大自然中的心情。
This piece of iron sticking out of this boulder is not an oversight.
這塊從巨石中伸出來的鐵塊並非疏忽。
In fact, it's a survey bolt that marks the original street grid of Manhattan.
事實上,這是一個測量螺栓,標誌著曼哈頓最初的街道網格。
The original commissioner's plan of 1811 never included designs for a large park in the middle of the city.
1811 年最初的專員計劃從未包括在城市中央建造一個大型公園的設計。
But the streets that were once here were removed and the land was incorporated into the park.
但這裡曾經的街道被拆除,土地被納入公園。
And it was really quite a transformation.
這確實是一個巨大的轉變。
At the time this park was conceived, the entire city wasn't as densely populated as it is today.
在設計這座公園時,整個城市的人口密度還沒有現在這麼高。
But there were still settlements in the area that would become the park, including Seneca Village, one of the earliest free black settlements in New York.
但在後來成為公園的地區仍有一些定居點,包括塞內卡村(Seneca Village),它是紐約最早的自由黑人定居點之一。
Everyone living on what would become park land was relocated by eminent domain, the controversial government mechanism for seizing property where owners are compensated but must vacate.
所有居住在後來成為公園的土地上的人都被徵用土地的方式搬遷了。徵用土地是一種有爭議的政府機制,用於沒收財產,業主可以獲得補償,但必須搬遷。
And Seneca Village, tragically, was included in that.
不幸的是,塞內卡村也在其中。
But it wasn't just relocating homes that took place.
但這不僅僅是搬遷房屋。
Vox and Olmsted's design called for a radical departure in the thinking of what a grand civic garden should be.
沃克斯和奧姆斯特德的設計徹底改變了人們對大型市民花園的看法。
They rejected the idea of highly formal rigid gardens like those designed exclusively for the wealthy.
他們反對像那些專為富人設計的花園那樣形式化嚴重的僵化觀念。
Instead, they proposed a naturalistic setting filled with meadows, woodlands, gurgling streams, and surprising vistas.
相反,他們提出了一個充滿草地、林地、潺潺溪流和令人驚歎的美景的自然環境。
The resulting work involved shifting over five million cubic yards of soil, planting over 500,000 trees and shrubs, and excavating more than seven lakes and other bodies of water, all done by hand.
由此產生的工程涉及轉移 500 多萬立方碼的土壤,種植 50 多萬株樹木和灌木,開挖 7 個以上的湖泊和其他水體,全部由人工完成。
In fact, the boulders like this one, which the bolt is sticking out of, are the only original pieces of natural landscape in the park.
事實上,像這塊巨石(螺栓就是從這塊巨石上伸出來的)是公園裡唯一的原始自然景觀。
And even many of these were unearthed, scraped, and cleaned to appear as they do today.
甚至其中的許多都是經過出土、刮削和清洗後才呈現出今天的樣子。
This is the last remaining survey bolt in Central Park.
這是中央公園僅存的測量螺栓。
And I don't want to spoil the fun of finding it for you.
我不想破壞你們尋找它的樂趣。
So I'll let you search the 843 acres for it.
那我就讓你們在這 843 英畝的土地上找找吧。
Central Park is a big place, and it's easy to get turned around.
中央公園很大,很容易迷路。
But if you do, here's a tip.
但是,如果你迷路了,這裡有一個小竅門。
There are more than 1,800 lampposts in the park that tell you where you are, if you know where to look.
公園裡有 1800 多根燈柱,只要你知道往哪裡看,它們就會告訴你所在的位置。
At the base of the lamppost, you can find a set of numbers that indicate where you are in the park.
在燈柱的底部,你可以找到一組數字,顯示你在公園中的位置。
But it's a bit of a secret code.
但這有點像暗號。
The first two numbers represent the nearest cross street between 59th Street and 110th.
前兩個數字代表第 59 街和第 110 街之間最近的十字路口。
And the last two numbers tell you which side of the park you're on.
最後兩個數字告訴你公園在哪一邊。
Even numbers mean east, and odd numbers mean west.
偶數表示東,奇數表示西。
Over my shoulder, you can see the Bethesda Terrace, at the center of which is the beautiful Bethesda Fountain.
從我的肩上可以看到貝塞斯達露臺,露臺中央是美麗的貝塞斯達噴泉。
A grand fountain was also one of the original requirements for the design competition.
大噴泉也是設計競賽的最初要求之一。
And this one satisfies that requirement and commemorates the importance of water in New York City.
而這一作品既滿足了這一要求,又紀念了紐約市水的重要性。
Titled Angel of the Waters, this sculpture was created by sculptor Emma Stebbins, who was the first woman to receive a commission for a major public work in New York City.
這座雕塑名為 "水之天使",由雕塑家艾瑪-斯蒂賓斯創作,她是紐約市第一位接受委託創作大型公共作品的女性。
The statue commemorates the completion of the Croton Aqueduct in 1842, which brought fresh water to New York City, which was actually a really big deal, because before that, cholera and yellow fever were a big issue because of unclean water.
這座雕像是為了紀念 1842 年克羅頓引水渠的竣工,它為紐約市帶來了淡水,這實際上是一件大事,因為在此之前,霍亂和黃熱病就是因為不乾淨的水而引起的大問題。
And in fact, Bethesda Terrace takes its name from the Gospel of St. John, which refers to the healing waters of Bethesda in Jerusalem.
事實上,貝塞斯達露臺的名字來源於《聖約翰福音》,其中提到耶路撒冷的貝塞斯達療養水。
Although now it is filled with sculptures depicting historical figures, such as William Shakespeare,
儘管現在這裡到處都是描繪威廉-莎士比亞等歷史人物的雕塑、
Robert Burns, and Sir Walter Scott,
羅伯特-伯恩斯和沃爾特-司各特爵士、
Angel of the Waters was the only sculpture that was created as part of the original design of the park.
水天使是公園最初設計中唯一的雕塑。
And even though this statue was created by a woman, all of the statues depicting real people in the park were only of men, until the statue of Sojourner Truth,
儘管這座雕像是由一位女性創作的,但公園裡所有描繪真人的雕像都是男性,直到索傑納-真理的雕像、
Susan B. Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton was created in 2020.
蘇珊-安東尼(Susan B. Anthony)和伊麗莎白-卡迪-斯坦頓(Elizabeth Cady Stanton)於 2020 年創建。
These later statues line possibly the most recognizable part of the park, known as the Mall, which has been featured in countless films and TV shows.
這些後來的雕像可能是公園最著名的部分,被稱為購物中心,曾出現在無數電影和電視節目中。
This is one of the most formal design elements of the park, a grand promenade that leads directly to Bethesda Terrace, which the designers called the heart of the park.
這是公園最正式的設計元素之一,一條宏偉的長廊直接通向貝塞斯達露臺,設計師稱其為公園的心臟。
The city was reluctant to build the terrace at first due to costs, but Vaux convinced them by saying nature first, second, and third, architecture after a while.
起初,由於成本問題,市政府不願意修建露臺,但沃克斯說服了他們,他說自然是第一位的,其次才是建築。
And basically what that means is nature has been the priority, but at some point, we need some architecture.
從根本上說,這意味著自然一直是優先考慮的問題,但在某些時候,我們需要一些建築。
And this became the place for it.
而這裡就成了實現這一目標的地方。
The design of the arcade is like the nave of a church, but submerged.
拱廊的設計就像教堂的中殿,不過是被淹沒的。
It has this incredible ceiling with over 15,000 tiles made in England by the Minton Tile Company, who famously made tiles for many cathedral floors in Europe.
它有一個令人難以置信的天花板,天花板上的 15000 多塊瓷磚是由英國敏頓瓷磚公司製作的,該公司曾為歐洲許多大教堂的地板製作瓷磚而聞名於世。
This arcade is actually the only place in the world where these tiles are used for a ceiling.
實際上,世界上只有這家商場的天花板使用了這種瓷磚。
Although it is highly ornate and ingeniously designed, it also remains true to the naturalistic vision of the park's overall design, with carvings depicting natural scenes as well as symbols of the Four Seasons.
雖然它非常華麗,設計巧妙,但在公園的整體設計中,它仍然秉承了自然主義的理念,雕刻的圖案既有自然景色,也有四季的象徵。
The act of walking down these steps through the arcade and out to the terrace is one of the great architectural experiences in New York City.
走下這些臺階,穿過拱廊,來到露臺,是紐約市最棒的建築體驗之一。
You walk down the stately mall, step down into this dimly lit underground space.
你走下莊嚴的商場,步入這個光線昏暗的地下空間。
Basically, you're just walking under a roadway, and suddenly you're in this church-like, almost sacred space.
基本上,你只是走在一條道路下面,突然間你就進入了這個教堂般的、近乎神聖的空間。
The rows of stone arches, the imported English tile ceiling, the intricate trompe-l'oeil panels, it all creates an atmosphere of reverence.
成排的石拱門、進口的英式瓷磚天花板、錯綜複雜的裝飾板,無不營造出一種令人肅然起敬的氛圍。
And then when you emerge, it opens onto this grand terrace with a statue of an angel set against the backdrop of the lake and the forest in the distance.
然後,當你走出來,就會看到一個宏偉的露臺,露臺上有一個天使雕像,背景是湖泊和遠處的森林。
Over my shoulder is what's known simply as the lake.
在我的肩上,是一個叫做 "湖 "的地方。
It's actually only four feet deep, but it covers 22 acres.
它實際上只有四英尺深,但卻佔地 22 英畝。
So in addition to the lake, there's six other man-made bodies of water in the park, including the Harlem Mirror, the lock, the reservoir, the pond, and others.
除了湖泊,公園裡還有其他六個人造水體,包括哈萊姆鏡、水閘、水庫、池塘等。
And they were all intended to have a calming effect, echoing the serenity of natural bodies of water in the natural landscape.
它們都是為了產生一種平靜的效果,與自然景觀中的自然水體的寧靜相呼應。
But of course, none of this is naturally occurring.
當然,這些都不是自然產生的。
It was all designed and constructed.
這一切都是設計和建造出來的。
Even the beautiful waterfalls that you see in Central Park are fed by tap water.
就連你在中央公園看到的美麗瀑布也是由自來水供給的。
The idea to create naturalistic vistas throughout the park was partly inspired by the paintings of the Hudson River School.
在公園內營造自然美景的想法,部分是受到哈德遜河畫派繪畫的啟發。
These paintings were enormous in scale and depicted awe-inspiring natural scenes.
這些畫作規模宏大,描繪了令人驚歎的自然景象。
Some of them are hanging in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which of course is situated inside the park.
其中一些作品被懸掛在大都會藝術博物館內,當然博物館就位於公園內。
In fact, the original Met building was designed by Calvert Vaux along with Jacob Ray Mould.
事實上,大都會最初的建築是由卡爾弗特-沃克斯(Calvert Vaux)和雅各布-雷-穆德(Jacob Ray Mould)共同設計的。
The other notable feature about this lake is the bridge that crosses it, the Bow Bridge.
該湖的另一個顯著特點是橫跨湖面的弓橋。
It was originally designed as a suspension bridge, like the Brooklyn Bridge, but they decided to go with an arched bridge because they were concerned that the towers would distract from the naturalistic setting.
這座橋最初的設計是一座懸索橋,就像布魯克林大橋一樣,但他們決定採用拱橋,因為他們擔心橋塔會分散自然景觀的注意力。
The whole bridge is cast iron with a span of 87 feet.
整座橋為鑄鐵結構,跨度為 87 英尺。
It's actually the second oldest cast iron bridge in the United States.
實際上,它是美國第二古老的鑄鐵橋。
There's over 36 bridges in the park.
公園裡有超過 36 座橋。
Known as arches, most of them are both bridges and tunnels, which is a very New York thing.
這些拱門被稱為拱門,其中大部分既是橋樑又是隧道,非常具有紐約特色。
Each one is unique and ornate and has its own personality and character.
每一個都是獨一無二的,都是華麗的,都有自己的個性和特色。
But even more importantly, they're also very clearly visible examples of the way the park is organized for visitors to navigate it.
但更重要的是,它們也是公園組織方式的明顯例證,方便遊客遊覽。
There's actually four vertical layers to the park.
公園實際上有四個垂直層。
The transverse roads, which are submerged below grade, and three other circulation paths.
淹沒在地表以下的橫向道路,以及其他三條循環通道。
The drives, which were intended for horses and carriages, the bridle paths for horseback riding, and the footpaths for pedestrian traffic.
車道供馬匹和馬車通行,馬道供騎馬通行,人行道供行人通行。
These arches, these bridges and tunnels intertwine vertically so that these different circulation paths can cross each other without creating traffic at the intersections.
這些拱門、橋樑和隧道在垂直方向上交織在一起,使這些不同的循環路徑可以相互交叉,而不會在交叉路口造成交通堵塞。
The drives pass over the bridle and footpaths, allowing uninterrupted use of each different circulation path.
車道穿過馬道和人行道,使每條不同的循環路徑都能暢通無阻。
It's also a really clever way to separate these different types of transit while maintaining a seemingly pastoral landscape.
在保持田園風光的同時,將這些不同類型的中轉站分開也是一種非常巧妙的方法。
And so it actually accommodates a lot of traffic without it feeling like there's a lot of traffic.
它實際上可以容納大量的車流,而不會讓人感覺車流量很大。
Vaux and Olmsted intended the park to be enjoyed by all the people of the city, working class and wealthy.
沃克斯和奧姆斯特德打算讓這座城市的所有人,無論是工人階級還是富人,都能享受這座公園。
But at the time, an unfortunate byproduct of these vertically layered circulation paths was that they also separated the classes from one another because people of lesser means couldn't afford horses, let alone carriages.
但在當時,這些縱向分層的流通路徑的一個不幸副產品是,它們也將階級與階級之間隔開,因為經濟條件較差的人買不起馬,更不用說馬車了。
Thankfully, that is no longer the case, and the paths are used interchangeably by everybody from all walks of life.
值得慶幸的是,這種情況已不復存在,各行各業的每個人都在交替使用這兩條道路。
So behind me, you can see Belvedere Castle.
在我身後,你可以看到貝爾維迪爾城堡。
Belvedere basically just means beautiful view in Italian.
Belvedere 在意大利語中的基本意思就是美麗的景色。
It's built on Vista Rock, one of the highest points in Central Park.
它建在中央公園最高點之一的 Vista Rock 上。
It was intended as a place to get broad, sweeping views of the park and the surrounding cityscape.
它的目的是讓人們從這裡可以俯瞰公園和周圍的城市景觀。
There are many places in the park where you can lose sight of the buildings that surround you and feel removed from the city.
公園裡有很多地方都能讓人忘卻周圍的建築,感受到遠離城市的氣息。
But climbing the tower of Belvedere Castle brings modern Manhattan back into view and reminds you that this natural landscape sits within a great metropolitan city.
不過,登上貝爾維迪爾城堡的大廈,現代曼哈頓又重新映入眼簾,讓人不禁想起這座大都市中的自然景觀。
The other function of this high vantage point is that Belvedere Castle serves as a weather station.
這個制高點的另一個功能是,美景宮城堡是一個氣象站。
So every time you hear, you know, the amount of rainfall or snowfall in Central Park, they are referring to that spot right behind me.
每當你聽到中央公園的降雨量或降雪量時,他們指的就是我身後的那個地方。
The castle is made out of Manhattan schist, which is the same stone found throughout the park, like the boulder that the survey bolt is driven into.
城堡由曼哈頓片岩砌成,這種石材在公園裡隨處可見,就像測量螺栓被打入的巨石一樣。
And it appears to actually grow out of that rock and become a building.
它似乎真的從岩石中長出來,變成了一座建築。
What's really interesting about this building is that it's built at three-quarter scale, which makes it appear further away than it actually is and gives it this sort of magical fairytale quality.
這座建築最有趣的地方在於,它是按照四分之三的比例建造的,這讓它看起來比實際距離更遠,並賦予了它一種神奇的童話氣質。
Originally, it was designed to be two castles, but the budget was cut and Jacob Ray Mould designed that wooden pavilion in lieu of the second castle.
最初,它被設計成兩座城堡,但預算被削減,雅各布-雷-穆德(Jacob Ray Mould)設計了木製涼亭來代替第二座城堡。
Some of the other things you can see from the castle is the Great Lawn, the Delacorte Theater, where they perform Shakespeare in the park, and Turtle Pond, which actually is home to turtles.
從城堡還可以看到大草坪、在公園裡表演莎士比亞戲劇的德拉科特劇院,以及烏龜池,這裡其實是烏龜的家園。
The Great Lawn was actually a reservoir when the park was first built, but in 1931, they filled it in with rubble from the excavation for the foundations of Rockefeller Center and the 8th Avenue subway.
公園初建時,大草坪實際上是一個水庫,但在 1931 年,他們用挖掘洛克菲勒中心和第八大道地鐵地基的碎石將其填平。
And now this beautiful green expanse is the site of many famous concerts and home to a number of sports fields and other community activities.
現在,這片美麗的綠地是許多著名音樂會的舉辦地,也是許多運動場和其他社區活動的場所。
You can also see the Ramble from the Tower of Belvedere Castle.
您還可以從貝爾維迪爾城堡的大廈上眺望拉姆布爾。
The Ramble is one of the parts of the park that feels the most like it's always been here, like it's completely natural and not manmade, and that you could get lost on a walk in the woods.
峽谷是公園中最有感覺的地方之一,就像它一直都在這裡一樣,完全是天然的,而不是人工建造的,在森林中漫步,你可能會迷路。
And it's the perfect manifestation of the idea that a soothing walk in nature could happen right in the middle of New York City.
它完美地體現了 "在紐約市中心的大自然中漫步 "這一理念。
There's so many amazing things in Central Park that we just didn't have time to cover.
中央公園有太多令人驚歎的東西,我們沒有時間一一介紹。
If you'd like to see a part two on Central Park, let us know in the comments below.
如果你希望看到關於中央公園的第二部分,請在下面的評論中告訴我們。