It was human beings that invented the idea of waste, of using things once, then throwing them out.

是人類發明了 "浪費 "的概念，即使用一次就扔掉。

In many ways, waste has driven human progress.

在許多方面，廢物推動了人類的進步。

Disposable diapers helped women get out of the bathroom faster than anyone else.

一次性尿布幫助婦女比其他人更快地離開衛生間。

Waste has driven human progress.

廢物推動了人類進步。

Disposable diapers helped women get out of laundry rooms and into the workforce.

一次性尿布幫助婦女走出洗衣房，走上工作崗位。

Disposable plastic syringes enabled mass vaccination, saving hundreds of millions of lives.

一次性塑膠注射器實現了大規模疫苗接種，挽救了數億人的生命。

And even the most dramatic example of human progress, space travel, has been powered by single-use rocket boosters.

即使是人類進步最顯著的例子--太空旅行，也是由一次性火箭助推器提供動力的。

But this most significant of human inventions, waste, is today so successful that it threatens our very existence.

但是，廢物這一人類最重要的發明如今卻如此成功，以至於威脅到了我們的生存。

Each year, over 150 billion disposable diapers and 16 billion disposable syringes end up incinerated, in landfill, or simply polluting the environment.

每年有超過 1500 億片一次性尿布和 160 億支一次性注射器最終被焚燒、填埋或直接汙染環境。

By 2050, there may be more plastic waste than fish in the world's oceans.

到 2050 年，世界海洋中的塑膠垃圾可能比魚還多。

And outer space is now so full of waste that it's jeopardizing future missions.

外太空現在充滿了廢物，危及未來的任務。

In the industry I work in, fashion, waste is a particular problem.

在我所從事的時尚行業，浪費是一個特殊的問題。

Over the past 20 years, fashion consumption has increased by 400%, yet 85% of materials produced eventually end up incinerated or sent to landfill.

在過去 20 年裡，時尚消費增長了 400%，但生產的 85% 的材料最終被焚燒或送往垃圾填埋場。

The relentless production of new materials accounts for 38% of fashion's greenhouse gases and is one of the reasons fashion is the third most polluting industry in the world.

無休止地生產新材料產生的溫室氣體佔時裝業溫室氣體總量的 38%，這也是時裝業成為全球第三大汙染行業的原因之一。

Fashion is an industry built on waste.

時尚是一個建立在浪費基礎上的產業。

And while some companies are making good progress in setting carbon reduction goals, using recycled materials, or offering trade-in and resale programs, few are daring to challenge the fundamentals of the fashion system.

雖然一些公司在制定碳減排目標、使用可回收材料或提供以舊換新和轉售計劃方面取得了良好進展，但很少有公司敢於挑戰時尚系統的基本要素。

But as our climate crisis escalates, it's clear that this linear system cannot continue.

但是，隨著我們的氣候危機不斷升級，這種線性系統顯然不能再繼續下去了。

This is what I was thinking four years ago as I was at home with my young kids during COVID, feeling increasingly anxious about fashion's future and my role in contributing to that future.

四年前，當我在 COVID 期間帶著年幼的孩子，對時尚的未來和我在未來中所扮演的角色感到越來越焦慮時，我就是這麼想的。

At the time at my company, Coach, we were taking many steps to improve the sustainability of our brand, including launching programs to give used and damaged products a second life.

當時，我所在的蔻馳公司正在採取許多措施來提高品牌的可持續發展能力，包括推出一些計劃，讓使用過的和損壞的產品獲得第二次生命。

But the more I thought about it, the more I realized this wasn't enough.

但我越想越覺得這還不夠。

To solve the problem of waste, we would have to reinvent it and the system that created it.

要解決浪費問題，我們必須重塑浪費和產生浪費的制度。

This is what led me to create Coachtopia, a new Coach sub-brand designed not to improve our linear fashion system but to pioneer a circular one in which products are made with waste, designed for multiple lives, and have clear circular pathways so those materials stay in circulation.

這就是我創立 Coachtopia 的初衷，這是 Coach 的一個新子品牌，其目的不是改善我們的線性時裝系統，而是開創一個循環系統。

We reframed our understanding of waste.

我們重新構建了對廢物的認識。

Let me explain.

讓我來解釋一下。

First, we had to make our waste visible.

首先，我們必須讓我們的廢物可見。

In fashion, we normally create products without thinking about the waste we generate.

在時尚界，我們通常在生產產品時不會想到會產生廢物。

In fact, when we first started looking for our waste, it was actually hard to get the full picture.

事實上，當我們剛開始尋找我們的廢物時，實際上很難了解全貌。

We measure what we make, not what we leave behind.

我們衡量的是我們創造了什麼，而不是我們留下了什麼。

But these waste streams are vast and deep.

但是，這些廢物流浩瀚而深邃。

For example, this is the waste left behind from the making of products such as our quilted tabby shoulder bag.

例如，在製作我們的絎縫虎斑紋單肩包等產品時留下的廢料。

As you can see, the scraps left over from the cutting of the bag patterns are not easily usable.

正如您所看到的，裁剪袋子圖案時留下的廢料並不容易利用。

They're small, scrappy, irregular.

它們小巧、潦草、不規則。

Typically across the industry, these scraps are sent to landfill, almost without a thought.

通常情況下，整個行業都會將這些廢料送往垃圾填埋場，幾乎不假思索。

But they're up to 30% of each leather skin.

但它們在每張皮革中的比例高達 30%。

At first, the scale of the problem seemed daunting.

起初，問題的規模似乎令人生畏。

But we soon realized that the scale was actually the opportunity, that in fact, we could create a whole new supply chain built on waste.

但我們很快意識到，規模其實就是機會，事實上，我們可以在廢物利用的基礎上創建一個全新的供應鏈。

So we started collecting, sorting, classifying, and storing our leather scraps.

於是，我們開始收集、整理、分類和儲存皮革廢料。

And now, instead of a pile of waste, we have a rich supply of materials collected in what we call our leather scrap yards.

現在，我們的皮革廢料場收集的不再是一堆廢料，而是豐富的材料。

Next, we had to reimagine the value of waste, thinking of it not as a byproduct, but as an inspiring raw material.

接下來，我們必須重新認識廢棄物的價值，不再將其視為副產品，而是一種令人振奮的原材料。

And it started with reversing how we design.

而這一切都要從扭轉我們的設計方式開始。

In the usual process, we design forwards.

在通常情況下，我們的設計是向前推進的。

We imagine the ideal product in the ideal materials and colors, and we harness the power of our supply chain to bring this vision to physical life.

我們用理想的材料和顏色想象出理想的產品，並利用供應鏈的力量將這一設想變為現實。

But in a circular world, we have to design backwards, starting with what already exists, and using our creativity to turn those materials into beautiful new products.

但是，在一個循環的世界裡，我們必須逆向設計，從已有的材料開始，用我們的創造力將這些材料變成美麗的新產品。

This was scary.

這太可怕了。

What if we wanted pink, but there was no pink?

如果我們想要粉色，但沒有粉色怎麼辦？

What if the only pinks that were available were the wrong shades, no longer on trend this season?

如果僅有的粉紅色是錯誤的色調，不再是這一季的流行趨勢，那該怎麼辦？

What if we fell in love with a color of scrap, but there wasn't enough?

如果我們愛上了一種顏色的廢料，但數量不夠怎麼辦？

Or we ran out before we could make enough units?

還是我們還沒做出足夠的組織、部門就用完了？

Our challenge was to see these constraints not as obstacles, but as opportunities for innovative design.

我們所面臨的挑戰是如何將這些限制因素視為創新設計的機遇，而不是障礙。

This is what led us to create our signature checkerboard pattern, which we created to help us put a system of order on the often unpredictable, continually changing nature of our raw material supply.

是以，我們創造了標誌性的棋盤格圖案，以幫助我們為經常不可預測、不斷變化的原材料供應建立一套秩序。

The checkerboard allows us to easily swap in and out different colors, while maintaining the same system of scalable production.

棋盤式設計讓我們可以輕鬆地調換不同的顏色，同時保持相同的可擴展生產系統。

Along the way, we had to learn to embrace imperfection.

一路走來，我們必須學會接受不完美。

In the luxury world, we often talk about uncompromising quality.

在奢侈品領域，我們經常談論毫不妥協的品質。

But as Coach, the American House of Leather, we're also responsible in some part for defining what quality means.

但作為美國皮革世家蔻馳，我們在某種程度上也有責任定義品質的含義。

An aha moment was when we went to one of our partner factories and saw the parts of the leather they trimmed away because the grain was uneven.

當我們來到一家合作工廠，看到他們因為皮革紋理不均勻而修剪掉的部分皮革時，我們頓時茅塞頓開。

The natural grain of the highest quality leathers had become a defect to be trimmed away because it didn't fit an aesthetic preference for uniformity.

最高品質皮革的天然紋理已經成為一種缺陷，因為它不符合人們對統一性的審美偏好，所以被修剪掉了。

In that moment, I realized just how much the way we consume is linked to the way we make.

在那一刻，我意識到我們的消費方式與我們的製造方式是多麼地息息相關。

I myself was one of those consumers who asked to see three of every bag when I shopped in a store, looking for the perfect one without any marks or imperfections, without thinking about the fact that to get a perfect finish, you need to waste more materials.

我自己也是這樣的消費者，在商店購物時，每個包都要看三個，尋找沒有任何痕跡或瑕疵的完美包包，卻沒有想到，為了獲得完美的效果，需要浪費更多的材料。

Seeing these perfectly usable materials thrown away really brought home the fact that the idea of waste is closely tied to what we choose as a culture to find beautiful.

看到這些完全可用的材料被扔掉，我們才真正意識到，廢物的概念與我們作為一種文化所選擇的美麗事物密切相關。

As producers of fashion, we're responsible for helping create this ideal of beauty.

作為時尚生產者，我們有責任幫助創造這種理想之美。

And so it's important at Coachtopia that we challenge it.

是以，在 Coachtopia，我們必須對其提出挑戰。

Finally, we had to shift from designing with waste to designing out waste.

最後，我們必須從設計廢物轉變為設計廢物。

In Coachtopia, we set out to transform the waste Coach generates into beautiful new products.

在 Coachtopia，我們著手將 "蔻馳 "產生的廢物轉化為精美的新產品。

But once we started really thinking about waste and what we choose to consider waste, we had to ask ourselves another question.

但是，一旦我們開始真正思考廢物以及我們所選擇的廢物，我們就不得不問自己另一個問題。

What if rather than reimagining waste once it was already created, we started thinking about it before it was created?

如果我們在廢物產生之前就開始思考它，而不是在廢物產生之後再重新想象它，會怎麼樣呢？

So we looked at our upcoming lineup of Coach bags, and then we thought about the waste that would inevitably be a byproduct of producing those bags.

是以，我們審視了即將推出的 Coach 手袋系列，然後考慮到生產這些手袋時不可避免地會產生廢物。

And here is what we created.

這就是我們的成果。

This is a bag designed specifically to be made from the waste of our top-selling quilted tabby shoulder bag.

這款包是專門利用我們最暢銷的絎縫虎斑紋肩包的廢料設計而成的。

We transformed the small and irregular leftover scraps of leather, some of them rejected because of their natural grain, and stitched them together to create a whole new bag with a 59% lower carbon footprint than the comparable style made with new materials and also a 46% lower price than the quilted tabby as we pass on the savings of using these scraps to our consumers.

我們將剩餘的細小且不規則的皮革碎片（其中一些因其天然紋理而被拒收）進行改造，然後將它們縫合在一起，創造出一個全新的手袋，其碳排放量比使用新材料製作的同類款式低 59%，價格也比絎縫虎斑皮手袋低 46%，因為我們將使用這些碎片所節省的成本轉嫁給了消費者。

And now we're applying this approach more broadly to other top styles, the Brooklyn, the Hamptons, and more.

現在，我們將這種方法更廣泛地應用於其他頂級風格、布魯克林、漢普頓等地。

It's luxury born out of waste.

這是一種因浪費而產生的奢侈。

We're beginning to build a whole new system that's more like nature, where what's left behind by one entity, Coach, is used by another, Coachtopia.

我們開始建立一個全新的系統，這個系統更像大自然，一個實體 Coach 留下的東西會被另一個實體 Coachtopia 利用。

And that makes me so happy because I love fashion.

這讓我非常高興，因為我熱愛時尚。

I love the joy it brings us and the way it allows us to express ourselves.

我喜歡它帶給我們的快樂，喜歡它讓我們表達自我的方式。

I believe that the steps we're taking, though of course imperfect, will help us build a new kind of fashion that doesn't come at the expense of the planet.

我相信，我們正在採取的措施雖然並不完美，但能幫助我們打造一種不以犧牲地球為代價的新時尚。

But what I'm even more inspired by is the idea that by changing the way we both make and consume, we can start to build a future where waste isn't the unwanted consequence of linear growth, but the fuel for a new model of progress, a circular one.

但更讓我深受啟發的是，通過改變我們製造和消費的方式，我們可以開始建設這樣一個未來：廢棄物不再是線性增長的不良後果，而是一種新的進步模式--循環模式--的燃料。

Thank you.

謝謝。

Thank you.

謝謝。