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  • Today, we will talk about so-called anti-aging treatments for skin.

    今天,我們來談談所謂的皮膚抗衰老療法。

  • That is the things that can be done to help reduce the degradation of the protein components in skin that give skin it's youthful, or in some cases, non-youthful appearance to induce the formation of as well as other proteins that relate to the formation of de novo skin, new skin, and can replace old degenerated skin.

    也就是說,可以減少皮膚中蛋白質成分的降解,使皮膚保持年輕,或者在某些情況下,使皮膚看起來不年輕,從而誘導其他蛋白質的形成,這些蛋白質與新生皮膚、新皮膚的形成有關,可以取代老化退化的皮膚。

  • Our skin is an incredibly important organ, not just for our appearance or because it serves as a barrier to the other organ systems of the body, but because it actually reflects the health status of all the other organs and systems in our body, including our brain.

    我們的皮膚是一個非常重要的器官,這不僅是為了我們的外表,也不是因為它是身體其他器官系統的屏障,而是因為它實際上反映了我們身體所有其他器官和系統的健康狀況,包括我們的大腦。

  • And if you think about it, you've seen this relationship in action before.

    如果你仔細想想,就會發現這種關係以前就存在。

  • When any of us is feeling fatigued or sick, the color, the tone of our skin tends to be a bit, quote unquote, off, at least for us, relative to what it normally is.

    當我們中的任何一個人感到疲勞或生病時,皮膚的顏色和色調往往會有點不正常,至少對我們來說是這樣。

  • Conversely, when we are feeling particularly well-rested and vibrant and healthy, our skin reflects that.

    相反,當我們感覺特別精神、充滿活力和健康時,我們的皮膚也會反映出這一點。

  • I think it's worth paying attention to a few things that you can potentially take that can really improve the youthfulness of your skin for which there is excellent science to support it.

    我認為值得注意的是,你可以採取一些有可能真正改善皮膚年輕狀態的措施,這些措施都有很好的科學依據。

  • So when I spoke to board-certified dermatologists, what people can do to improve the youthfulness or the appearance of youthfulness in their skin, they mentioned hydrolyzed collagen protein in combination with vitamin C, and they mentioned supplementing with niacinamide.

    是以,當我與經委員會認證的皮膚科醫生交談時,他們都提到了水解膠原蛋白與維生素 C 的結合,以及煙酰胺的補充。

  • Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3.

    煙酰胺是一種維生素 B3。

  • And I was told that when taken at twice per day at a dosage of 500 milligrams per dose for a total of one gram or 1000 milligrams per day, niacinamide supplementation can increase the production of ceramides, which relate to the lipids in skin that improve the moisture in skin.

    我被告知,如果每天服用兩次,每次劑量為 500 毫克,每天總劑量為 1 克或 1000 毫克,煙酰胺補充劑可以增加神經酰胺的產生。

  • And by the way, moisture in skin is a key component of the youthfulness or plump appearance of that skin.

    順便說一句,皮膚中的水分是皮膚保持年輕或豐滿外觀的關鍵因素。

  • And when I say plump, I don't necessarily mean outwardly rounded plump.

    我說的 "豐滿",並不一定是指外表圓潤的豐滿。

  • I mean, the fact that the skin looks like the outermost layer of the skin, which you now know as the epidermis, is kind of taut and the skin looks hydrated and smooth at the level of its outer appearance.

    我的意思是,事實上,皮膚的最外層,也就是你們現在知道的表皮層,看起來有點緊繃,皮膚的外表看起來水潤光滑。

  • All of that is improved by niacinamide supplementation, but that the supplementation has to be carried out for three to six months or more before that effect is noticed.

    補充煙酰胺可以改善所有這些問題,但必須持續三到六個月或更長時間才能發現效果。

  • But for those of you suffering from rosacea, so rosacea being a reddening of the skin from acne, almost always involves some reddening, often painful reddening of specific pox on the skin, sometimes even the appearance of, you know, that niacinamide supplementation may also assist there, regardless of whether or not you suffer from rosacea or acne or not at all, niacinamide supplementation may benefit you.

    但對於那些患有紅斑痤瘡的人來說,紅斑痤瘡是痤瘡引起的皮膚髮紅,幾乎總是涉及一些皮膚髮紅,經常是皮膚上特定痘痘的疼痛性發紅,有時甚至會出現,你知道,煙酰胺補充劑也可能會有幫助,無論你是否患有紅斑痤瘡或痤瘡或根本沒有,煙酰胺補充劑都可能對你有益。

  • Also because niacinamide supplementation appears to balance the level of oil production in the skin, you need oil in the skin, you need oil down in those pores, but not too much.

    此外,煙酰胺的補充似乎還能平衡皮膚的油脂分泌水準,皮膚需要油脂,毛孔需要油脂,但不能過多。

  • And that it can definitely help reduce the appearance of clogged pores.

    而且,它絕對有助於減少毛孔堵塞。

  • And if you're concerned about pores that appear too large, this typically happens in the face, around the nose, on the upper cheeks, although other regions of the body as well, niacinamide supplementation may assist with that as well.

    如果您擔心毛孔過於粗大,這種情況通常發生在面部、鼻子周圍和臉頰上部,雖然身體的其他部位也會出現這種情況,但補充煙酰胺可能也會有所幫助。

  • There's also a number of people out there that are concerned with specific spots that they see as hyperpigmented spots.

    也有一些人對他們認為是色素沉著斑的特定斑點感到擔憂。

  • So regardless of whether or not overall your skin is very light or very heavily pigmented, supplementation with niacinamide can reduce the appearance of accumulation and maybe even the actual accumulation of melanin in a particular spot, so-called dark pigmented spots that some people decide that they don't want for whatever reason, usually just cosmetic reasons.

    是以,無論你的皮膚整體上是非常白還是色素沉著非常嚴重,補充煙酰胺都可以減少黑色素在某個特定部位的積聚,甚至是實際積聚,也就是所謂的深色色素斑,有些人出於某種原因(通常只是美容原因)決定不要這些色素斑。

  • Now, if you decide to supplement with niacinamide, you have the option of either taking that 1,000 milligrams and two 500 milligram dosages per day.

    現在,如果您決定補充煙酰胺,您可以選擇每天服用 1,000 毫克和兩個 500 毫克的劑量。

  • You also have the option of using any number of different topical niacinamide ointments or serums that exist out there.

    您還可以選擇使用各種不同的煙酰胺外用軟膏或血清。

  • Keep in mind that many skincare products already contain niacinamide, so check the label.

    請記住,許多護膚品已經含有煙酰胺,是以請查看標籤。

  • And there, the dermatologists tell me that to be effective, the niacinamide needs to be present at at least a two and as high as 10% concentration within those ointments or serums.

    在那裡,皮膚科醫生告訴我,煙酰胺的濃度至少要達到軟膏或精華液的 2%,甚至高達 10%,這樣才會有效。

  • Keep in mind that many serums and ointments also contain what's called hyaluronic acid.

    請記住,許多精華液和軟膏也含有所謂的透明質酸。

  • Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin that provides a physical substrate for holding in water, so moisture within the skin.

    透明質酸是皮膚的天然成分,是保持皮膚水分的物理基質。

  • It does a bunch of other important things too within the extracellular matrix and elsewhere, the regions between the cells, that is.

    它還在細胞外基質和其他地方(即細胞之間的區域)做了很多其他重要的事情。

  • And supplementation with hyaluronic acid or ointments or serums that contain hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are pretty common out there because of the already stated effects of niacinamide and the fact that hyaluronic acid can serve as what's called a humectant, something that serves to sort of barrier in moisture at the level of the skin, okay?

    補充透明質酸或含有透明質酸和煙酰胺的軟膏或精華素是很常見的,因為煙酰胺的功效已經說明,而且透明質酸可以作為一種所謂的保溼劑,起到在皮膚層面阻隔水分的作用,好嗎?

  • So it gives that kind of plumping, moist look of skin that's characteristic of youthful skin as opposed to aged skin.

    是以,它能讓皮膚看起來飽滿、溼潤,這是年輕皮膚的特徵,而不是老化皮膚的特徵。

  • I told you I consulted with a fairly large and diversified group of folks, all agreed that supplementation with collagen, vitamin C, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid was something that they suggest to their patients.

    我告訴過你,我諮詢過相當多不同的人,他們都認為補充膠原蛋白、維生素 C、煙酰胺和透明質酸是他們建議病人做的事情。

  • The other supplement that dermatologists recommend if the goal is youthful appearing skin, are things within the so-called retinoid pathway, such as retinol.

    皮膚科醫生推薦的另一種補充劑是所謂的視黃酸途徑,如視黃醇。

  • Why?

    為什麼?

  • Why are these used for skincare?

    為什麼將它們用於護膚?

  • Why are they used to increase the youthfulness of skin?

    為什麼要使用它們來增加皮膚的年輕度?

  • Well, vitamin A gets into skin cells and is converted into something called retinaldehyde, then into something called retinoic acid.

    維生素 A 進入皮膚細胞後會轉化為一種叫做視黃醛的物質,然後再轉化為一種叫做視黃酸的物質。

  • So when retinoic acid gets into cells, it can activate what's called transcription factors.

    是以,當視黃酸進入細胞後,它可以激活所謂的轉錄因子。

  • Transcription factors bind to DNA, okay?

    轉錄因子與 DNA 結合,好嗎?

  • Your genetic code, and can induce the transcription and translation of DNA into RNA and RNA into proteins of particular types.

    您的遺傳密碼,並能誘導 DNA 轉錄和翻譯成 RNA,RNA 轉錄和翻譯成特定類型的蛋白質。

  • So think of transcription factors as sort of setting a menu of different proteins that ultimately will be formed, okay?

    所以,把轉錄因子看作是為最終形成的不同蛋白質設定菜單,好嗎?

  • By binding to DNA, and then you get DNA to RNA, RNA to protein, and you're getting a set of proteins related to a particular process.

    通過與 DNA 結合,然後將 DNA 轉化為 RNA,再將 RNA 轉化為蛋白質,最後得到一組與特定過程相關的蛋白質。

  • That's generally how transcription factors work.

    轉錄因子一般就是這樣工作的。

  • And retin-A, tretinoin, and things similar to that are going to induce the formation of collagen protein within skin, as well as other proteins that relate to the formation of de novo skin, new skin, and can replace old degenerated skin.

    視黃醇-A、維甲酸和類似的物質會誘導皮膚中膠原蛋白的形成,以及與新生皮膚、新皮膚的形成有關的其他蛋白質的形成,並能取代老化退化的皮膚。

  • So the dermatologists that I spoke to were really bullish about the fact that, believe it or not, they felt that people starting in their 20s could very well, as long as they're not pregnant or lactating, or planning to get pregnant, could take retin-A or things similar to it in order to stimulate the production of more skin and look more youthful.

    是以,與我交談過的皮膚科醫生都非常看好這一事實,不管你信不信,他們認為,20 多歲的人,只要沒有懷孕、哺乳或計劃懷孕,就可以服用視黃醇-A 或類似的藥物,以刺激更多皮膚的生成,讓自己看起來更年輕。

  • Now, for people already in their 20s, they're already youthful, but that they could initiate the use of these compounds, at least in one's 20s and continuing on, really, as long as they wanted through life.

    現在,對於已經 20 多歲的人來說,他們已經很年輕了,但他們可以開始使用這些化合物,至少在 20 多歲的時候,而且只要他們願意,真的可以一直用下去。

  • And they told me about, quote, remarkable results.

    他們告訴我,引用他們的話說,效果非常顯著。

  • So I said, well, why isn't everyone aware of this?

    於是我說,為什麼大家都不知道呢?

  • Why isn't everyone taking them?

    為什麼不是每個人都服用?

  • Well, it turns out that these different compounds can also increase sensitivity to light, make you more prone to sunburn, to some of the other effects of light on skin, even from screens or from artificial light.

    事實證明,這些不同的化合物也會增加對光的敏感性,使人更容易被晒傷,更容易受到光對皮膚的其他影響,甚至是來自螢幕或人造光的影響。

  • So one has to be careful about inducing too much skin sensitivity to light of all kinds, not just sunlight, that they can also induce some redness or dryness.

    是以,人們必須小心,不要讓皮膚對各種光線(不僅僅是陽光)過於敏感,因為它們也會誘發一些紅腫或乾燥。

  • So one has to get the dosage right, the frequency of use right, and they can be a little bit tricky to work with, but that if one can home in on the right dosages, the right frequency, et cetera, the dermatologist felt like this was one of the best things that one could do to improve the youthfulness or the appearance of youthfulness in one's skin.

    是以,我們必須掌握正確的劑量和使用頻率,而且使用起來可能有點麻煩,但如果我們能掌握正確的劑量和使用頻率,皮膚科醫生認為這是改善皮膚年輕狀態或外觀的最佳方法之一。

  • And while all of this sounds a little bit too good to be true, the mechanisms by which it's asserted to work all hold up.

    雖然這一切聽起來有點好得不像真的,但它所宣稱的運作機制都是站得住腳的。

  • So that's always reassuring, right?

    所以,這總是令人欣慰的,對嗎?

  • Mechanism isn't everything, but it's really nice to see there.

    機制並不代表一切,但看到它真的很高興。

  • For instance, these compounds are known to get into the nucleus of cells, right?

    例如,這些化合物可以進入細胞核,對嗎?

  • To impact gene expression.

    影響基因表達。

  • We talked about that before.

    我們之前談過這個問題。

  • You have receptors on the surface of cells.

    細胞表面有受體

  • Okay, so cell surface receptors.

    好吧,那麼細胞表面受體。

  • You also have nuclear receptors and the ability of certain things, we call them ligands, but these are chemicals, right?

    你還有核受體和某些東西的能力,我們稱之為配體,但這些都是化學物質,對嗎?

  • In this case, you know, in the vitamin A pathway to get into the nucleus of cells and impact gene expression.

    在這種情況下,維生素 A 途徑進入細胞核並影響基因表達。

  • This is actually how hormones like testosterone and estrogen change the way that people look so dramatically during puberty.

    實際上,睪丸激素和雌激素等荷爾蒙就是這樣在青春期顯著改變人的容貌的。

  • They actually, you know, they operate by binding to cell surface receptors.

    實際上,它們是通過與細胞表面受體結合而發揮作用的。

  • They also get into the nuclear compartment of the cell.

    它們還會進入細胞核區。

  • They bind to nuclear receptors and they turn on entire genetic programs that cause, for instance, deepening of the voice or the growth of hair or breast tissue, et cetera.

    它們與核受體結合,開啟整個基因程序,導致聲音加深、毛髮或乳腺組織生長等。

  • So these are powerful compounds, but these compounds get enough positive support from the people that have tried them, reporting improved youthfulness of skin, et cetera, that some of them are becoming quite sought after and people, let's just say, are very enthusiastic about them.

    是以,這些都是強效化合物,但試用過這些化合物的人都對它們給予了足夠的肯定,稱它們改善了皮膚的年輕狀態,等等。

  • And I will say that in discussing the various mechanisms of this with these cosmetic surgeons and some dermatologists, the logic holds up.

    我想說的是,在與這些整容外科醫生和一些皮膚科醫生討論其中的各種機制時,邏輯是成立的。

Today, we will talk about so-called anti-aging treatments for skin.

今天,我們來談談所謂的皮膚抗衰老療法。

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