Name: 搖滾勇士之路--恐懼墜落 (Rock Warriors Way | the Fear of Falling)
Uploaded: 2024-09-11T13:00:04.000Z
Duration: 18 min 13 s

動名詞

Hello there, my name is Jason Schmalz and I'm an AMGA single pitch instructor and today our video is going to be a little bit different in that we're not going to talk through some technical climbing solutions but more focus on the mental side of climbing, specifically moving through the fear of falling and how that can be beneficial.

大家好，我叫傑森-施馬爾茲（Jason Schmalz），是美國攀巖協會（AMGA）的單坡度教練。今天我們的視頻會有些不同，我們不會講述一些技術性的攀巖解決方案，而是更關注攀巖的心理層面，特別是克服對摔倒的恐懼，以及這種恐懼是如何帶來益處的。

形容詞比較級

Over the last, I'd say, 18 to 24 months of my climbing journey, as I've expanded my objectives and gotten on bigger and bigger stuff, I've found that my limitation has not been physical strength, it has not been climbing technique, but it's actually been mental fears that have caused me to back off of challenges.

在過去的 18 到 24 個月的攀巖之旅中，隨著我的目標不斷擴大，挑戰的難度也越來越大，我發現自己的極限並不是體力，也不是攀巖技術，而是心理上的恐懼讓我放棄了挑戰。

to 不定詞

And so in order to address that, I came across a great resource that I'd love to share with you which is a book called Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ildner and if you don't have a copy of this book, I would recommend you pick it up, but I did want to share three key concepts that I got out of reading that book, I actually read the book twice and I'd love to hear your thoughts on some of these concepts or if you've read the book, if you had additional takeaways.

是以，為了解決這個問題，我發現了一個很好的資源，我很想與大家分享，那就是阿諾-伊爾德納（Arno Ildner）寫的一本名為《磐石勇士之道》（Rock Warrior's Way）的書，如果你沒有這本書，我建議你去買一本，但我確實想與大家分享我讀了這本書後得到的三個關鍵概念，實際上我讀了這本書兩遍，我很想聽聽你對其中一些概念的看法，或者如果你讀過這本書，你是否有其他的收穫。

So be sure to leave something in the comments about that, I'd like to kind of start a dialogue because I think this mental side of climbing is a big one for a lot of people.

是以，請務必在評論中留下您的看法，我希望能就此展開對話，因為我認為攀巖的心理層面對很多人來說都是一個大問題。

But the first concept that the book touches on that I really connected with is breaking through plateaus by removing what the book calls power leaks.

但書中提到的第一個概念讓我印象深刻，那就是通過消除書中所說的 "能量洩漏 "來突破高原狀態。

So the book wants you to be a powerful climber, meaning that you're able to dedicate all your strength and abilities to the task at hand, which is the climb.

是以，這本書希望你成為一名強有力的攀登者，也就是說，你能夠將所有的力量和能力都投入到手頭的任務中，也就是攀登。

And what the book observes is power leaks are coming up with all these different what if scenarios in your mind, whether it's pro coming out on a fall or taking a big fall that you get hurt or potentially hitting the ground if you fall or the rock coming out, all these different things that there may be some validity, but our mind makes them out to be way bigger than what they really are.

這本書所觀察到的是，電力洩漏會在你的腦海中出現各種不同的 "如果 "場景，不管是親身經歷的墜落，還是摔個大跟頭受傷，或者是墜落時可能撞到地面，或者是石頭掉出來，所有這些不同的事情可能都有一定的合理性，但我們的大腦會把它們想象得比實際情況要嚴重得多。

And what we do as we start to climb through hard stuff where we're afraid of falling is we dedicate more mental attention to those what if scenarios, which the book calls power leaks, and very little mental attention to the actual climb.

當我們開始攀登那些我們害怕摔倒的艱難路段時，我們所做的就是將更多的精神關注於那些 "如果 "場景，書中稱之為 "動力洩漏"，而很少將精神關注於實際的攀登。

And I found even in observing myself, I became almost like a beginner climber on hard climbs because I was thinking so much about these what if scenarios.

我甚至在觀察自己時發現，在艱難的攀爬中，我變得幾乎像一個初學者，因為我想了太多這些 "如果 "的情況。

So the book goes through some techniques on how to remove those power leaks, which I'd like to share with you now.

是以，書中介紹了一些如何消除電源洩漏的技巧，現在我想和大家分享一下。

The first part is to, we want to be totally confident in the pro that we have in the wall before going through a crux section.

首先，我們要對自己在巖壁上的親身經歷充滿信心，然後再去攀登峭壁。

So if I'm not totally confident to fall on the pro that I have, I need to figure out a way to beef that up because I don't want a power leak going to what if my pro comes out of the wall because that's not really quantifiable.

是以，如果我沒有十足的把握落在我的專業上，我就需要想辦法把它加強，因為我不希望我的專業從牆上掉下來時出現漏電的情況，因為這並不能真正量化。

So if I need to place an extra cam or maybe place a nut below a cam that I have placed or two nuts or sling a horn or whatever it is where I feel very confident in the pro that I have, that's step one.

是以，如果我需要多放一個凸輪，或者在已經放好的凸輪下面再放一個螺母，或者放兩個螺母，或者放一個喇叭，或者任何我覺得非常有把握的地方，這就是第一步。

So now I've limited, I've kind of drawn a box around worst case scenarios on what I'm going to fall on.

所以，現在我已經限制了，我已經在最壞的情況下畫了一個框，我將在什麼地方跌倒。

The second part of the technique is to look through the crux and identify what's my next safe spot.

技巧的第二部分是要看清癥結所在，確定下一個安全地點。

So the safe spot is going to be one of two things.

是以，安全點將是兩種情況之一。

It's either going to be where I can place another good piece of pro or it's going to be a place where the climbing becomes easier.

它要麼會成為我可以再放一塊好道具的地方，要麼會成為攀爬變得更容易的地方。

You know, maybe it turns into a ramp or the grade eases where I can kind of escape the hard section.

你知道，也許它會變成一個斜坡，或者坡度變緩，讓我可以躲過難走的路段。

And then the third part of the technique is to look at the pro that I have that I'm confident in and that safe zone and look at all the different fall potentials between those areas and look down below me and say, okay, if I fell five feet, 10 feet toward that safe zone or even right below the safe zone, what does that fall look like and visualize it in my mind.

然後，該技巧的第三部分是查看我有信心的區域和安全區，並查看這些區域之間所有不同的墜落可能性，再看看我的下方，然後說，好吧，如果我向安全區墜落 5 英尺、10 英尺，甚至在安全區的正下方，墜落會是什麼樣子，並在腦海中想象出來。

And so now I've moved past this, you know, all these, you know, kind of hypothetical scenarios to I've quantified, okay, worst case fall, I'm going to fall to about that point.

所以，現在我已經擺脫了這種，你知道，所有這些，你知道，那種假設的情景，我已經量化了，好吧，最壞的情況下下降，我會下降到那個點左右。

Is that a clean fall and can I accept it?

這算不算乾淨利落的摔倒，我能接受嗎？

That's the key is to go through those three steps to quantify a worst case fall and to say, hey, I'm okay.

關鍵是要通過這三個步驟來量化最糟糕的摔倒情況，然後說，嘿，我沒事。

I accept that as the worst case fall and I'm okay to progress through this climb with that risk.

我接受這種最糟糕的摔倒情況，我可以冒著這種風險繼續攀登。

So now what I've done is I've plugged up that power leak because I've, before I even started climbing said, I accept all the possible scenarios of falling.

所以，現在我所做的就是堵住那個漏電的地方，因為我在開始攀爬之前就說過，我接受所有可能摔倒的情況。

And so now I can take all that mental ability that I had wrapped up in what if scenarios and dedicate it back to the climb.

是以，現在我可以把那些被 "如果 "場景所束縛的心智能力重新投入到攀登中去。

現在我可以真正專注於技術了。

I can really focus on foot and hand holds in order to push through the crux.

我可以專注於腳部和手部的支撐，以便突破難關。

And so now I've become a powerful climber because I don't have those power leaks.

是以，現在我已經成為了一名強有力的攀巖者，因為我沒有那些力量洩露的問題。

So that's the first concept, breaking through plateaus by removing power leaks.

這就是第一個概念，通過消除動力洩漏來突破高原。

I want you to practice that when you're out lead climbing especially.

我希望你們在領攀時，尤其要練習這一點。

The second concept is getting into bigger objectives by redefining success.

第二個概念是通過重新定義成功來實現更大的目標。

The book goes through great lengths to redefine success for the climber as not topping out of a climb, but instead looking at what I can bring to the climb as a technique for redefining success.

這本書不厭其煩地為登山者重新定義了成功的含義，即登山者不是為了登頂而登山，而是把 "我能為登山帶來什麼 "作為重新定義成功的技巧。

So let me build that a little bit for you.

所以，讓我來為你稍微構建一下。

So one thing that I always want to bring to a climb that's a big objective or is maybe a harder climb than I've been on before is a desire to learn.

是以，在攀登大目標或比我以前攀登過的難度更大的目標時，我總是希望帶著學習的願望。

So now my definition of success is am I learning?

所以，現在我對成功的定義是：我在學習嗎？

So I can learn whether I fall or I top out.

這樣，我就能知道自己是摔倒了還是爬起來了。

對我來說，從跌倒中學到了很多。

我學會了對職業選手充滿信心。

我瞭解到，我很擅長安排親子活動。

I also learn a lot through topping out, of course, that, oh, wow, I'm capable of this.

當然，我也從頂層設計中學到了很多，哇，我竟然能做到這一點。

I'm capable of climbing this grade or capable of climbing in this terrain.

我有能力攀登這個高度，或者有能力在這種地形下攀登。

Another thing you may want to bring to the climb is a comfort zone that you want to expand.

您可能想在攀登時帶去的另一件東西是您想要拓展的舒適區。

So normally when we push objectives to bigger or harder, we're trying to expand what we're comfortable with.

是以，通常情況下，當我們把目標推向更大或更難的時候，我們是在努力擴大我們所能接受的範圍。

So by coming to a climb with a desire to expand my comfort zone, there's multiple ways to do that that don't really even entail whether or not I top out or not.

是以，帶著擴大舒適區的願望來攀登，有多種方法可以做到這一點，甚至不需要考慮是否登頂。

It's being in new scenarios that stress me out, that cause me stress.

在新的環境中，我會感到緊張，會產生壓力。

In a way, I almost want to be stressed because I know that's my comfort zone expanding.

在某種程度上，我幾乎想承受壓力，因為我知道那是我的舒適區在擴大。

So redefining success is expanding my comfort zone so that when I come back to that terrain the next time, I'm more comfortable.

是以，重新定義成功就是擴大我的舒適區，這樣當我下一次回到那個地形時，就會更加舒適。

I may still be a little bit afraid, but I'm less afraid than I was the time before.

也許我還是有點害怕，但我已經沒有之前那麼害怕了。

And then if I go back again, I'm less afraid than that time and so on and so forth until

然後，如果我再回去，我就沒那麼害怕了，如此反覆，直到

I actually become quite comfortable and can move even toward the next step.

實際上，我變得相當自如，甚至可以邁向下一步。

So a comfort zone that wants to be expanded is a great redefinition of success.

是以，想要擴大舒適區就是對成功的重新定義。

A final kind of redefinition of success is simply exposure to a new place.

對成功的最後一種重新定義，就是接觸一個新的地方。

So there's so many great destinations in climbing, even in the United States or locally where you live, that being able to just get out and in those environments in and of itself is a success.

是以，即使是在美國或您居住的當地，也有如此多的攀巖勝地，能夠走出家門，置身於這些環境中，本身就是一種成功。

Hey, I worked toward climbing in Red Rock Canyon.

嘿，我曾為攀登紅石峽谷而努力。

Hey, I worked toward climbing in Circa the Towers and now I'm in Circa the Towers on

嘿，我努力爬上了 Circa the Towers，現在我又在 Circa the Towers 上了。

And it almost doesn't even matter if you fall or you make a mistake or you mess up the navigation or you mess up the beta because, hey, I am in this place and I am doing it and I'm getting exposure to a new environment.

即使你摔倒了、犯錯了、把導航弄亂了、把測試弄亂了，也幾乎沒有關係，因為，嘿，我在這個地方，我正在做這件事，我正在接觸一個新的環境。

So I encourage you to define that kind of milestone of getting in new environments or terrains as a success point in and of itself.

是以，我鼓勵你們將這種進入新環境或新領域的里程碑本身定義為一個成功點。

One thing that can help you to go through these redefinitions of success, and there's no doubt through these redefinitions there's still fear, is consider hiring a guide or pairing up with a climbing mentor that can help you expand that comfort zone faster or that can help you expand that learning growth faster.

有一件事可以幫助你重新定義成功，毫無疑問，在重新定義成功的過程中，你仍然會感到恐懼，那就是考慮聘請一位嚮導，或者與一位登山導師結成對子，幫助你更快地拓展舒適區，或者幫助你更快地拓展學習成長的空間。

One thing you'll learn even in doing that is, wow, climbing is more rewarding and I can grow faster with partnerships.

即使在這樣做的過程中，你也會學到一件事，那就是：哇，攀登更有成就感，我可以通過合作更快地成長。

The last concept I wanted to share with you is the concept of learning more about yourself through climbing.

我想與大家分享的最後一個概念是通過攀登進一步瞭解自己。

For me, I've come to the point in my climbing journey where my mental growth has actually started to outpace my physical growth in climbing.

對我來說，在攀巖之旅中，我的心理成長實際上已經開始超過我的身體成長。

So what I've gained mentally in expanding my comfort zone has outpaced what I've gained strength-wise or climbing technique-wise.

是以，我在心理上拓展舒適區的收穫，超過了我在力量或攀巖技術上的收穫。

Some key points to that is learning how to control my mind versus allowing my mind to control me.

其中的一些關鍵點是學會如何控制我的思想，而不是讓我的思想控制我。

So you'll notice when you get into cruxes or hard parts that you get this tunnel vision and you get this heavy breathing and over-gripping and that's your mind controlling you.

是以，你會發現，當你走到十字路口或困難的地方時，你會產生隧道式視覺，呼吸沉重，抓握過度，這是你的大腦在控制你。

And being able to observe my mind almost in a third-person way or an objective way, I can see, wow, my mind is controlling me and is there a way I can take back that control?

能夠以第三人稱或客觀的方式觀察我的思想，我就能發現，哇，我的思想在控制我，我有辦法奪回控制權嗎？

Is there a way that I can control my mind?

So really identifying those points and then going through some of the techniques that

是以，真正確定這些要點，然後通過一些技巧

I've mentioned before can help you through that.

我之前提到過，他們可以幫你解決這個問題。

Another key learning more about yourself point is my mind's ability to accept things versus resist things.

另一個讓我對自己有了更多瞭解的關鍵點是，我的大腦接受事物和抵制事物的能力。

To give you a great example, is on a hard climb where the holds are bad or the pro is terrible or there's a run-out section or it's wet or it's dirty, where I would maybe resist in the form of complaining or saying, oh, why does it have to be like this or it shouldn't be like this?

舉個很好的例子，在艱難的攀登過程中，如果支撐點不好，或者親身體驗很糟糕，或者有一段跑偏，或者很溼，或者很髒，我可能會以抱怨或說 "哦，為什麼非得這樣，或者不應該這樣？"的形式來抵制。

And instead accepting, oh, these holds are bad or this pro is bad or this is a run-out section and how am I going to approach that or can I approach that, opens a door for a lot more growing than resisting through complaining or putting down maybe a climb or something like that.

相反，接受 "哦，這些支撐點不好，或者這個職業選手不好，或者這是一個失控的路段，我應該怎麼走，或者我可以怎麼走"，比起通過抱怨或放棄攀爬或諸如此類的事情來抵制，這為我們的成長打開了一扇大門。

That programs your mind to be more solutions-oriented than to just shut down and say, oh, I can't do this or I can't do run-out sections or I shouldn't do run-out sections.

這讓你的思維更加以解決問題為導向，而不是閉門造車，說 "哦，我不能這樣做，我不能做跑偏的部分，或者我不應該做跑偏的部分"。

So that accepting versus resisting is kind of a great learning more about yourself point.

是以，接受與抵制是一個很好的瞭解自己的點。

The last learning more about yourself is by redefining success and pushing through and expanding these comfort zones, I've learned personally that the joy of growing is one of the highest forms of self-actualization I can get through climbing versus the joy of accomplishing.

最後，通過重新定義成功，突破並擴大這些舒適區，我對自己有了更多的瞭解。我個人體會到，相對於成就的喜悅，成長的喜悅是我通過攀登獲得自我實現的最高形式之一。

So just growing through climbing, seeing myself become a more well-rounded climber, going through that journey with peers and experiencing those victories, even through falling, even through not fully achieving a climb or having to aid through sections, but still growing through that process has been rewarding.

是以，通過攀巖獲得成長，看到自己成為一個更加全面的攀巖者，與同伴們一起經歷這段旅程，體驗那些勝利，即使是摔倒，即使是沒有完全攀登成功，或者不得不輔助通過一些路段，但仍然在這個過程中獲得成長，都是非常有意義的。

So anyway, those are some three concepts I took from that book, Rock Warrior's Way.

總之，這就是我從《磐石勇士之道》這本書中汲取的三個概念。

I'd like to look at a climb that I just did with you to show you practical application of that, how I pushed through a 5-10 crux on trad and show you, hey, this is specifically how I use these concepts and was able to achieve some victories.

我想和大家一起看看我剛剛完成的一次攀登，向大家展示一下實際應用，我是如何在傳統攀登中突破 5-10 個難點的，並向大家展示一下，嘿，這就是我如何具體運用這些概念並取得一些勝利的。

So this is a route called Jefferson Airplane and it's a 5-10 crux anyways, and you can see I'm in the crux on this first take and I've placed gear above me to satisfy my fear of falling.

這是一條名為 "傑斐遜飛機"（Jefferson Airplane）的路線，無論如何都有5-10個彎道，你可以看到我在第一個彎道上，我把裝備放在了我的上方，以滿足我對墜落的恐懼。

Unfortunately, I placed the gear in a key handhold to get through the crux and you can see I'm having trouble because I can't get both of my hands in that hold and the hand that I actually do have in the hold is going to get pinched by the cam when I fall.

不幸的是，我把齒輪放在了一個關鍵的抓握點上，以通過這一難關，你可以看到我遇到了麻煩，因為我無法把兩隻手都放在那個抓握點上，而實際上我放在抓握點上的那隻手，在我掉下去的時候會被凸輪夾住。

So I have a lot of things working against me.

Firstly, I can't do the proper movement and then secondly, when I fall, I'm going to actually hurt myself more than I would otherwise because my hand is going to get stuck and you can see right here, my hand's stuck and my belayer, being a good belayer, allows me to get out of that.

首先，我無法做出正確的動作，其次，當我摔倒時，我的手會被卡住，你可以看到，我的手被卡住了，而我的繫帶者是一個好的繫帶者，他讓我擺脫了這種情況。

So now on this second attempt, you can see I've removed the cam and so now I can actually do the crux as it was designed.

是以，在第二次嘗試時，你可以看到我去掉了凸輪，現在我可以真正按照設計完成這一峭壁。

So now I can get two hands in that hold, which I'll do here in a second, and start to explore how to do the crux properly.

是以，現在我可以用兩隻手握住繩索，稍後我就會這樣做，然後開始探索如何正確地進行峭壁攀登。

And I'm still scared at this point to fall, so even though I have a good pro strategy below that I believe in, I will not believe in it until I actually see it.

我現在仍然害怕跌倒，所以即使我下面有一個很好的職業策略，我相信它，但在我真正看到它之前，我不會相信它。

So you can see I'm still very timid on the movement and still kind of exploring the crux a little bit and part of that is because I'm afraid to fall.

所以你可以看到，我在這個動作上仍然非常膽怯，還在一點點地探索癥結所在，部分原因是我害怕摔倒。

But you can see I fall this first time and looking at it from third person is a very unintimidating fall, similar to what you might experience in the gym, maybe five or ten feet.

但你可以看到我第一次摔倒，從第三人稱看，我摔得並不嚇人，就像你在健身房裡可能經歷的那樣，可能是五英尺或十英尺。

But nonetheless, I've built trust in the pro now.

但儘管如此，我現在已經建立起了對專業人士的信任。

So I believe in the pro, I know where I need to go, I have the right hand holds, and so

所以，我相信職業選手，我知道我需要去哪裡，我有正確的手勢，所以

I'm progressing now through the climb for the first time with a clear head to actually explore how does this sequence go.

現在，我第一次以清醒的頭腦在攀登過程中取得了進展，並真正探索了這個序列是如何進行的。

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搖滾勇士之路--恐懼墜落 (Rock Warriors Way | the Fear of Falling)

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