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Okay, so you think this is olive oil, right?
好吧,你認為這是橄欖油,對嗎?
Wrong.
錯了
Well, maybe some of it is, but this is actually a classic example of food fraud.
也許有些是,但這其實是食品欺詐的典型例子。
Extra virgin olive oils are being switched out with cheap ones.
特級初榨橄欖油被廉價橄欖油取代。
And fraudulent to sell something labeled as something else.
並欺詐性地銷售貼有其他標籤的東西。
Why is this fish being mislabeled?
為什麼這條魚會被貼上錯誤的標籤?
Their Parmesan cheese products do not contain any Parmesan cheese.
他們的帕爾馬乾酪產品不含任何帕爾馬乾酪。
As there was no one brand that stood out as completely safe.
因為沒有一個品牌是完全安全的。
Wow, so we can't eat anything?
哇,那我們什麼都不能吃了?
I guarantee you any time a product can be passed off as something more expensive, it will be.
我向你保證,只要產品可以冒充更貴的東西,它就會冒充。
It's that simple.
就是這麼簡單。
Counterfeits, dilutions, substitution, and mislabeling.
假冒、稀釋、替代和貼錯標籤。
Food fraud not only harms consumers' wallets, it puts their health and safety at risk.
食品欺詐不僅會損害消費者的錢包,還會危及他們的健康和安全。
We might not know the overall impact of food fraud.
我們可能不知道食品欺詐的總體影響。
Because so much of what fraudsters do is hidden from us and has been for centuries.
因為欺詐者的很多行為都是瞞著我們的,而且已經瞞了幾個世紀了。
Some estimates say food fraud affects at least 1% of the global food industry, at a cost as high as $40 billion a year, according to the Food and Drug Administration.
據估計,食品欺詐至少影響了全球食品工業的 1%,根據美國食品和藥物管理局的數據,每年的成本高達 400 億美元。
Grocery manufacturers of America estimated that 10% of the commercially available food in the United States is adulterated.
據美國食品雜貨製造商估計,美國有 10%的市售食品摻假。
That's a one in 10.
這是十分之一。
It means if you're not on that eight item or less checkout line, you've got something in your cart when you leave the supermarket that's probably bogus.
這意味著,如果你不在八件或更少物品的結賬線上,你離開超市時購物車裡的東西很可能是假的。
Here's how, and why, fake food sits secretly in our kitchen cabinets.
假冒偽劣食品是如何以及為什麼會偷偷藏在我們的廚房櫥櫃裡的。
According to the FDA, food fraud is considered Economically Motivated Adulteration, or EMA.
根據美國食品和藥物管理局的規定,食品欺詐屬於經濟動機摻假(Economically Motivated Adulteration),簡稱 EMA。
It's a monetary impact to the consumer and to the food manufacturers, but it's also a potential public safety, public health impact.
這對消費者和食品生產商來說是一種金錢上的影響,但也是一種潛在的公共安全和公共衛生影響。
It robs us of nutrients and can kill people and has done.
它奪走了我們的營養,還可能致人死亡,而且已經造成了死亡。
Larry Olmstead researched food fraud for years and published his book, Real Food, Fake Food, in 2016.
拉里-奧姆斯特德研究食品欺詐多年,並於2016年出版了《真食品,假食品》一書。
As I worked on this book, my definition of fake food became any time what you buy is not what you think you're buying.
在寫這本書的過程中,我對 "假冒食品 "的定義變成了 "任何時候你買到的東西都不是你以為你買到的東西"。
Doesn't really matter whether it's legal or illegal.
合法與否並不重要。
It's where you're being tricked.
這就是你被騙的地方。
You're buying something that's not what you think it is.
你買的東西並不是你想象的那樣。
The worst offenders can include seafood, meat, dairy, honey, alcohol, spices.
海鮮、肉類、乳製品、蜂蜜、酒精和香料都可能是最嚴重的 "罪魁禍首"。
The fraud happens more with more expensive foods.
欺詐行為多發生在價格較高的食品上。
Totally makes sense, right?
完全說得通,對吧?
There's a higher margin.
利潤率更高。
Take your extra virgin olive oil as an example.
以特級初榨橄欖油為例。
Fraud usually occurs here when a cheaper oil is added to the more expensive oil, and the label still reads 100% extra virgin olive oil.
欺詐行為通常是在較貴的橄欖油中添加了較便宜的橄欖油,而標籤上仍然寫著 "100% 特級初榨橄欖油"。
That's food fraud.
這是食品欺詐。
Olive oil has been adulterated for thousands of years because it is of high value and it is sought out.
幾千年來,橄欖油一直被摻假,因為它的價值很高,是人們追捧的對象。
They might flavor it with beta carotene and maybe color it with a little chlorophyll to make it a little more green.
他們可能會用胡蘿蔔素來調味,也可能用葉綠素來著色,讓它更綠一點。
And so then you've got a lower quality, cheaper oil.
這樣一來,你就得到了品質更差、價格更低的石油。
So both of these olive oils I got at the grocery store, and both of them are the store brand.
這兩種橄欖油都是我在雜貨店買的,而且都是店裡的牌子。
But one cost way more than the other.
但一個比另一個貴得多。
This one had a label of 100% Mediterranean blend of extra virgin olive oil.
這款橄欖油的標籤上寫著 "100% 地中海特級初榨橄欖油"。
So the olives were sourced from a bunch of different European countries, and it said it was packed in Italy.
橄欖來自歐洲多個國家,包裝在意大利。
And there was no expiration date.
而且沒有過期日期。
And when I purchased this one, this one was a 100% California extra virgin olive oil.
當我購買這款橄欖油時,它是 100% 加利福尼亞特級初榨橄欖油。
First pressed, cold pressed, unfiltered, no artificial colors, preservatives, or flavors.
初榨、冷榨、未經過濾,不含人工色素、防腐劑或香精。
And this one had an expiration date.
而且這個還有有效期。
It said that these olives were harvested in October, November 2022, and that it would be good on your shelf until August 2024.
上面說這些橄欖是在 2022 年 10 月、11 月採摘的,可以在貨架上保存到 2024 年 8 月。
And it was much more expensive.
而且價格要貴得多。
Roughly twice as much as this olive oil.
大約是這種橄欖油的兩倍。
And this one had way more information about where this olive oil came from.
而這本雜誌中關於橄欖油來源的資訊要多得多。
Now let's look at the spice market as another one that's vulnerable to fraud.
現在,讓我們把香料市場看成另一個容易受到欺詐的市場。
Think of an expensive spice like saffron.
想想藏紅花這種昂貴的香料。
This tiny amount cost me $20 at the store.
這一小筆錢,我在商店花了 20 美元。
Saffron can be bulked up with some other material like plant stems and sold as the same, according to the FDA.
根據美國食品和藥物管理局的規定,藏紅花可以與植物莖等其他材料混合,並作為相同的材料出售。
Popular spices like basil and chili powder from a range of different brands.
各種品牌的羅勒和辣椒粉等常用香料。
Anything that's kind of colored orange, brown and ground up can be passed off as turmeric.
任何橙色、棕色和磨碎的東西都可以冒充薑黃。
It's the ultimate bait and switch.
這是最終的誘餌和調包。
And then there's fish.
還有魚。
The FDA says seafood fraud can occur when a less expensive species of fish is substituted for a more expensive species.
食品及藥物管理局說,用價格較低的魚種代替價格較高的魚種,就可能發生海鮮欺詐。
After all, it's kind of hard to know what fish you're buying, right?
畢竟,很難知道自己買的是什麼魚,不是嗎?
If you're an experienced chef or fishmonger, you can look at like a red snapper fillet and tell whether it's red snapper.
如果您是一位經驗豐富的廚師或魚販,您可以通過觀察紅鯛魚片來判斷它是否是紅鯛魚。
But 99% of consumers can't.
但 99% 的消費者做不到。
You know, most of the fish we eat is white fish.
要知道,我們吃的大部分魚都是白魚。
Every fillet looks pretty much the same, which is why there's so much substitution.
每塊魚片看起來都差不多,所以才會有這麼多的替代品。
The FDA is mandated by law to inspect 2% of the imported seafood, which is, I think, a very, very low bar.
美國食品和藥物管理局的法定任務是檢查 2%的進口海鮮,我認為這是一個非常非常低的標準。
In fact, the U.S. imports as much as 85% of its fish.
事實上,美國高達 85% 的魚類需要進口。
Federal Fisheries Enforcement is serious business.
聯邦漁業執法是一項嚴肅的工作。
Agents from NOAA and U.S.
海洋大氣局和美國國家海洋和大氣管理局的特工
Customs tear open a container filled with frozen fish from Thailand.
海關人員撕開一個裝滿泰國冷凍魚的貨櫃。
They're looking for fraud.
他們在尋找欺詐行為。
First, it's important to understand the matrix that food fraud lives in.
首先,必須瞭解食品欺詐的生存環境。
There's intentional and unintentional types of food risk.
食品風險有有意和無意之分。
Unintentional risks include food safety and quality, like accidental foodborne illnesses.
無意風險包括食品安全和品質,如意外食源性疾病。
CDC estimates about 50 million people a year contract a foodborne illness.
據疾病預防控制中心估計,每年約有 5000 萬人感染食源性疾病。
Only 20%, one in five of those, can be identified.
只有 20%,即五分之一的人能夠被識別出來。
So there's, you know, 40 million people a year getting sick from something they ate that we don't know what it is.
是以,每年有 4000 萬人因為吃了某種我們不知道是什麼的東西而生病。
And a good guess would be that fraud has something to do with that.
而一個很好的猜測是,欺詐與此有關。
Then there's intentional.
然後是有意為之。
That's where food fraud is alongside food defense.
這就是食品欺詐與食品防衛並存的原因。
The difference is fraud is motivated by economic gain and defense is motivated by harm.
區別在於,欺詐的動機是經濟利益,而辯護的動機是傷害。
If you have a ton of coffee and you can turn that into 1.2 tons by adding some cheap filler to it, you've just increased your profits by 20%.
如果你有一噸咖啡,你可以通過添加一些廉價的填充物把它變成 1.2 噸,那麼你的利潤就增加了 20%。
And a lot of these products pass through a lot of hands.
很多產品都要經過很多人的手。
They go from small growers to big trucks to tankers to boats to processing plants.
它們從小種植戶到大卡車、油輪、船隻再到加工廠。
It's not necessarily like this big company that's selling you coffee that's ripping you off.
不一定是大公司向你推銷咖啡,騙你的錢。
It can happen in a lot of ways along the way.
一路上,它可以以多種方式發生。
Even the FDA says it can't estimate how often this fraud happens or its economic impact.
就連美國食品和藥物管理局也表示,它無法估計這種欺詐行為的發生頻率及其經濟影響。
Over the last 10 years, the most common fraud committed is lying about an animal's origin and dilution or substitution.
在過去 10 年中,最常見的欺詐行為是謊報動物來源、稀釋或替代。
Both ranking at 16% of incidents recorded.
兩者均佔所記錄事件的 16%。
Dilution and substitution are exactly what they sound like.
稀釋和替代聽起來就很像。
Perhaps somewhere along the supply chain, the real expensive process of refining something like fresh olives is ignored.
也許在供應鏈的某個環節,人們忽略了像新鮮橄欖這樣真正昂貴的提煉過程。
Maybe a little canola oil is added instead.
也許可以加一點菜籽油來代替。
Then there's the removal of value.
然後是消除價值。
When an ingredient or part of a food is intentionally left out, taken out, or substituted altogether.
故意漏掉、剔除或完全替代食物中的某種成分或某一部分。
And that substitute can be a non-food substance.
這種替代品可以是非食品物質。
That's the 14% of the recorded food fraud incidents using non-food substances.
在記錄在案的食品欺詐事件中,有 14% 使用了非食品物質。
The pandemic has given us a chance to focus on supply chains and forced us to.
大流行病給了我們一個關注供應鏈的機會,迫使我們這樣做。
For example, during the pandemic, labeling fraud really spiked in 2021 to 21% of the types of fraud that were committed and recorded.
例如,在大流行病期間,標籤欺詐在 2021 年確實激增到了欺詐行為和記錄類型的 21%。
You know, if we knew all about it, why hasn't it been solved?
你知道,如果我們都知道了,為什麼還沒有解決呢?
The key was we weren't focusing on prevention.
關鍵是我們沒有把重點放在預防上。
Food fraud prevention, if we do it right, is boring.
如果我們做得好,預防食品欺詐是一件很枯燥的事情。
We're the fire marshal checking exits and smoke alarms, not catching the bad guys.
我們是消防隊長,檢查出口和煙霧報警器,而不是抓壞人。
The U.S. has laws in place to ensure food safety.
美國有確保食品安全的法律。
That's part of what the FDA does today.
這也是食品藥物管理局今天的工作內容之一。
Basically, all food fraud, all product fraud is illegal under one law or another somehow.
基本上,所有食品欺詐、所有產品欺詐在某種程度上都是違法的。
Before the FDA existed, manufacturers could add basically whatever they wanted into the food.
在食品藥物管理局成立之前,生產商基本上可以在食品中添加任何他們想要的東西。
Think of Upton Sinclair's The Jungle.
想想厄普頓-辛克萊的《叢林》。
That book was published in 1906.
該書於 1906 年出版。
That same year, food safety regulation began with the Meat Inspection Act and the Pure Food and Drugs Act, which outlawed adulterated and misbranded food items.
同年,《肉類檢查法》和《純淨食品和藥品法》開始對食品安全進行監管,將摻假和貼錯標籤的食品列為非法食品。
To protect consumers.
保護消費者。
This ultimately led to the creation of the FDA.
這最終促成了食品藥物管理局的成立。
The Food and Drug Administration.
食品藥品管理局。
Since then, laws have hit the books to further food safety protocols, like the Food Safety Modernization Act signed into law in 2011.
從那時起,有關食品安全的法律不斷出臺,如 2011 年簽署生效的《食品安全現代化法案》(Food Safety Modernization Act)。
And then horsemeat hit.
然後,馬肉襲來。
The fraud was on a grand scale.
欺詐的規模非常大。
Horsemeat was blended into beef in the U.K., across Europe.
在英國和整個歐洲,馬肉被混入牛肉中。
And sold to unsuspecting supermarkets for a period of eight months in 2012.
並在 2012 年向毫無戒心的超市銷售了 8 個月。
The scandal was exposed.
醜聞被曝光了。
And that was a great wake-up call.
這給我敲響了警鐘。
Some companies purposely mislead on labels.
有些公司故意在標籤上誤導消費者。
Prosecuting the fraudsters committing the crime can be tricky.
起訴實施犯罪的欺詐者可能很棘手。
After all, they're purposely trying to avoid that detection.
畢竟,他們是在故意避免被發現。
But criminals are caught.
但是,罪犯是會被抓住的。
Like in 2016.
就像 2016 年一樣。
Product labeled Market Pantry 100% Parmesan contained cheaper Swiss and cheddar cheese and an organic filler called cellulose, which can be derived from wood pulp.
標有 Market Pantry 100% Parmesan 的產品含有更便宜的瑞士乾酪和車達乾酪以及一種名為纖維素的有機填料,纖維素可從木漿中提取。
Castle Cheese was caught adding wood pulp and cheddar to its grated Parmesan that they sold as 100% Parmesan cheese.
Castle Cheese 被發現在其磨碎的帕爾馬乾酪中添加了木漿和切達乾酪,並作為 100% 帕爾馬乾酪出售。
The FDA does allow fillers like cellulose in cheese, but it can only make up 4% of the total ingredients.
美國食品及藥物管理局允許在奶酪中添加纖維素等填充物,但只能佔總成分的 4%。
The president of the company got a $5,000 fine, 200 hours of community service and three years of probation.
公司總裁被處以 5000 美元罰款、200 小時社區服務和三年緩刑。
For its part, the Food and Drug Administration says its job is to make sure food doesn't hurt you, not to police the labels.
食品藥品管理局則表示,它的工作是確保食品不會對人體造成傷害,而不是對標籤進行監管。
Fraud is tough for the consumer in terms of food because it's difficult.
在食品方面,欺詐對消費者來說是很難對付的,因為很難。
They don't have a lab in their kitchen.
他們的廚房裡沒有實驗室。
The Food Fraud Prevention Think Tank has a five-question survey consumers can use when shopping for food.
食品欺詐預防智囊團有一個五問調查表,消費者在購買食品時可以使用。
One, what type of product is it?
第一,是什麼類型的產品?
Be aware of product that you put on you, in you, or plug in the wall.
注意身上、體內或插在牆上的產品。
Two, quality.
第二,品質。
Can you recognize the difference between the products?
您能識別產品之間的區別嗎?
If you can't easily tell the difference, that makes you more vulnerable to fraud.
如果您不容易分辨,就更容易上當受騙。
If I drink scotch, I couldn't tell if it's a difference between a $50 bottle and a $5,000 bottle.
如果我喝蘇格蘭威士忌,我分不清 50 美元一瓶和 5000 美元一瓶的區別。
So I know I could be deceived at that point.
所以我知道,在這一點上我可能被欺騙了。
Three, supplier.
三,供應商。
Do you know the retailer or the supplier?
您認識零售商或供應商嗎?
And do you trust them?
你信任他們嗎?
So when you turn that box of cereal or bottle of juice over and read the back, there's a lot of information there that's required by law that's helpful to the consumer.
是以,當你翻開那盒麥片或一瓶果汁,閱讀其背面時,會發現有很多法律規定的資訊對消費者很有幫助。
And then question four, are you buying this item online?
第四個問題,您是在網上購買這件商品嗎?
The supply chain can be shrouded in more mystery when shopping online.
在網上購物時,供應鏈可能更神祕。
So how did you find out about this website?
那麼,您是如何發現這個網站的呢?
Is it reputable?
它有信譽嗎?
It depends on how you find that supplier.
這取決於你如何找到供應商。
And finally, five, complain.
最後,五,抱怨。
Okay, it's not a question, but the Food Fraud Prevention Think Tank says if the retailer is legit, they will want to know.
好吧,這不是一個問題,但食品欺詐預防智囊團說,如果零售商是合法的,他們就會想知道。
I think manufacturers can be the victims as well.
我認為製造商也可能是受害者。
The FDA also relies on consumers' reports.
食品及藥物管理局還依靠消費者的報告。
For some recent decades, fraudsters have gotten more sophisticated in the techniques they use to fake the food products.
近幾十年來,欺詐者偽造食品的手法越來越高明。
And that means that our detection methods and our test methods and standards have to be better at detecting fraud.
這就意味著我們的檢測方法、測試方法和標準必須更好地檢測欺詐行為。
That's why the U.S.
這就是為什麼美國
Pharmacopoeia Convention provides a framework for We have food fraud mitigation guidance.
藥典公約》為我們提供了一個減少食品欺詐的指導框架。
So it is a supply chain risk management tool to really take a look at which ones are the more risky products suspected to be adulterated.
是以,它是一種供應鏈風險管理工具,可以真正瞭解哪些產品涉嫌摻假,風險較大。
Sometimes it feels like this is not that big of a deal.
有時,我覺得這並不是什麼大不了的事。
But the more fraudsters are able to achieve, the more we end up paying in the end as consumers.
但是,欺詐者能達到的目的越多,我們消費者最終付出的代價就越大。
These cases rarely result in criminal penalties.
這些案件很少導致刑事處罰。
If you want to be like a drug dealer and import heroin, and you get arrested on a large scale, you're going to go to jail.
如果你想像毒販一樣進口海洛因,並且大規模被捕,你就會進監獄。
But if you can make $80 million importing adulterated honey, and then you're going to get a slap on the wrist and some fines, why wouldn't you do food instead of drugs if there's no basically criminal downside to it?
但是,如果你進口摻假蜂蜜就能賺到 8000 萬美元,然後你就會受到一記耳光和一些罰款,那麼如果基本上沒有犯罪方面的負面影響,你為什麼不做食品而做毒品呢?
So as long as we don't take it seriously, why should the perpetrators take it seriously?
所以,只要我們不把它當回事,犯罪者為什麼要把它當回事呢?
What we want is the food industry just to be focused on making food and not have to worry about looking over our shoulder, checking different suppliers.
我們希望食品行業只專注於生產食品,而不必擔心要顧此失彼,檢查不同的供應商。
And that's going to impact more food being produced, better food, safer food, less expensive food.
這將影響到更多食品的生產、更好的食品、更安全的食品、更便宜的食品。
There's plenty of things for us to worry about in the world today.
當今世界有很多事情值得我們擔心。
And food fraud should not be one of those.
食品欺詐不應是其中之一。