It's Mark Wiens.

是馬克-維恩斯

I'm in the food-obsessed island of Taiwan.

我在美食之島臺灣。

If you love to eat, this is a paradise.

如果您喜歡美食，這裡就是您的天堂。

And so today, I'm gonna take you on an ultimate Taiwanese food tour.

今天，我就帶大家來一次終極臺灣美食之旅。

Where we are going to eat five of the absolute best of the dishes you don't want to, you actually can't miss eating when you come to Taipei.

在這裡，我們將品嚐到五道絕對美味的菜餚，這五道菜餚是您來臺北時絕對不能錯過的。

So it's gonna be an ultimate day of Taiwanese, some of the most delicious, some of the greatest, some of the most iconic and tasty Taiwanese foods that you can possibly eat.

是以，這將是臺灣美食的終極日，一些最美味、最偉大、最具代表性和最可口的臺灣美食，你都有可能吃到。

You're not gonna want to miss any of this video and it's all coming up for you right now.

你一定不會錯過這段視頻，現在就為你送上。

We are just actually a couple blocks down from Taipei Main Station, which is one of the busiest areas of all of Taipei.

實際上，我們離臺北車站只有幾個街區的距離，而臺北車站是整個臺北市最繁忙的地區之一。

And you get into this back alley.

然後你就進入了這條小巷。

And the name of this place is Liu San Dong Beef Noodles.

這個地方的名字就叫劉三冬牛肉麵。

I can already smell the aroma of the first dish that we're gonna eat.

我已經聞到我們要吃的第一道菜的香味了。

It's probably one of the most famous of all Taiwanese foods.

這可能是臺灣最有名的美食之一。

And this is gonna be number one on the list to eat it.

而這將是吃掉它的清單上的第一位。

I'm talking about number one, Taiwanese beef noodles.

我說的是第一種，臺灣牛肉麵。

This is an amazing place down an alley.

這條小巷裡有個很棒的地方。

It's packed right now at the lunch rush.

現在正值午餐高峰期，這裡擠滿了人。

This place is well known.

這個地方很有名。

It's a heritage restaurant.

這是一家傳統餐廳。

It's a legendary place to eat beef noodles.

這裡是吃牛肉麵的傳奇之地。

This is what everyone is here for, the beef.

這就是大家來這裡的目的，牛肉。

Uncle is just explaining to us about their special beef noodles.

叔叔正在向我們介紹他們的特色牛肉麵。

And they're the only restaurant that serves this homemade noodle that's the thickness of a chopstick.

他們是唯一一家提供這種筷子粗細的自制麵條的餐廳。

And then he was also explaining about the broth, where it's all about the bones that boil in that broth for 24 hours to release all the flavor.

然後，他還介紹了肉湯，肉湯中的骨頭要煮 24 小時才能釋放出所有的味道。

So it's a bone broth.

所以這是一種骨頭湯。

And he said that floating on top, that yellow oil, the more yellow oil, the better, because that's pure beef flavor.

他說，浮在上面的黃油，黃油越多越好，因為那是純牛肉的味道。

Uncle is truly the king of beef noodles.

大叔是名副其實的牛肉麵之王。

And he's so knowledgeable.

而且他知識淵博。

He's just explained to us some of the secrets of beef noodle.

他剛剛向我們解釋了牛肉麵的一些祕密。

And he says he only uses Taiwanese beef because of the texture, because of the flavor.

他說，他只用臺灣牛肉，因為口感和味道都很好。

He knows his cuts.

他知道自己的切口。

He said he found us the perfect piece of beef, which looks like a brisket type of cut.

他說，他為我們找到了一塊完美的牛肉，看起來像是牛腩的切法。

He says it has the perfect ratio of fattiness to meat.

他說，它的脂肪和肉的比例恰到好處。

And when they assemble them, they boil their noodles, they add in some broth, then the slices of cut beef go on.

組裝時，先煮麵條，再加入肉湯，然後放入切好的牛肉片。

They add in a little bit of a stock, like braising sauce, it looks like.

他們會加入一點高湯，看起來像是燉煮醬。

More of that bone marrow beef broth goes in.

放入更多的骨髓牛肉湯。

It's really one of the national dishes of Taiwan.

它確實是臺灣的國菜之一。

Something that people just absolutely love.

人們絕對喜歡的東西。

And this is an education on it.

這也是一種教育。

And what an absolute hero of beef noodles.

牛肉麵絕對是英雄。

Oh, wow, that looks volcanic.

哦，哇，看起來像火山。

This metal canister, which is filled with the bones.

這個金屬罐裡裝滿了骨頭。

Uncle is about to change out the broth.

叔叔要換肉湯了。

Also, that's just straight bones.

此外，這只是直接的骨頭。

That's what's been boiling for 24 hours to create that rich broth.

這就是沸騰了 24 小時的濃湯。

There's strategic slices in the bone so that all of the flavor is unleashed.

骨頭上的切片很有策略性，這樣所有的味道都能釋放出來。

Oh, that's impressive.

哦，真了不起。

The bone just breaks like cardboard.

骨頭就像紙板一樣碎裂。

It's been boiling for so long.

沸騰了這麼久。

That amount of flavor, that's what makes the broth.

這就是肉湯的味道。

The new bones going into the broth, and then a bone marrow shower.

將新骨頭放入肉湯中，然後進行骨髓沐浴。

What a technique.

真是個好技術。

Pokes the beef chunks with a chopstick, and if it sticks all the way in, then he knows it's perfectly tender.

用筷子戳牛肉塊，如果筷子能完全戳進去，他就知道牛肉非常嫩。

But just by touch, by feel, that is experience.

但僅僅是觸摸、感覺，這就是經驗。

Wow, that was incredible.

哇，太不可思議了。

The time has finally come, and what an education on Taiwanese beef noodles before eating it.

時間終於到了，在吃臺灣牛肉麵之前，真是受了一次教育。

But two different versions.

但有兩個不同的版本。

One is the braised beef, and then one is just that expertise of beef that's just boiled within the bone broth.

一種是紅燒牛肉，另一種是在骨頭湯中煮熟的牛肉。

Both of them are extremely popular.

它們都非常受歡迎。

And one thing, they serve it with chopped up green onions, but then Uncle said he wanted me to try that broth first with no green onions, just to taste the purity of the broth, that beef flavor.

還有一點，他們在上菜時會配上切碎的蔥花，但叔叔說他想讓我先嚐嘗不加蔥花的肉湯，只是想嚐嚐肉湯的純度和牛肉的味道。

The first bite to begin this tour.

第一口開始這次參觀。

Oh, wow, that is so beefy, so pure.

哦，哇，太牛了，太純粹了。

Oh, so boiling hot.

哦，太熱了

You can taste all of the flavor that's just been unleashed from the bones.

你可以品嚐到剛剛從骨頭中釋放出來的所有味道。

The marrow has seeped out to make it rich and oily.

骨髓已經滲出，使其變得濃郁而油膩。

Let's move into that other broth real fast before we jump into all the goodies and the noodles.

在我們開始品嚐各種美味和麵條之前，讓我們快速進入另一種肉湯。

That's so good, too.

這也太好了。

Oh, man, one of the things I love about food, and I love about this place, is that the food is so good.

哦，天哪，我喜歡美食的一點，也是我喜歡這個地方的一點，就是這裡的食物太好吃了。

Uncle is just how particular he is about everything.

舅舅對任何事情都很挑剔。

He has a way, he has a method, and I so respect him.

他有自己的方式和方法，我非常尊敬他。

He's really a hero of beef noodles.

他真是牛肉麵的英雄。

Oh, those noodles are superb.

哦，這些麵條真好吃。

They're chewy and doughy and thick.

它們有嚼頭、麵糰和厚度。

Those are interesting, those are really tasty, and I think it's perfect with the beef noodles, because they're thick enough to kind of absorb some of that broth while remaining chewy at the same time.

這道菜很有趣，非常美味，我覺得和牛肉麵搭配非常完美，因為牛肉麵足夠厚，既能吸收湯汁，又有嚼勁。

One of the condiments that's on the table that a lot of people use is this pickled, preserved greens.

很多人在餐桌上都會用到的一種調味品就是醃菜。

People add spoons of this to their noodles, and then they do have a bunch of condiments as well, including garlic, and this you peel yourself so it stays nice and clean in its wrapper.

人們會在麵條里加一勺這樣的調料，然後他們也會有很多調味品，包括大蒜，這是你自己剝的，所以它在包裝裡保持得很乾淨。

That pickled greens is really good, too, that preserved flavor, a little bit of saltiness, a little bit of that complexity from the fermentation.

醃菜也很不錯，有醃製的味道，一點鹹味，一點發酵的複雜味道。

Okay, back over to the other bowl here, and this is the different type of beef, more of that brisket that's been braised, that's been cooked down without the spices.

好了，回到另一個碗，這是不同類型的牛肉，更多的是紅燒牛腩，不加香料煮熟。

I'll add some of the greens again to this one.

我還會在這其中加入一些蔬菜。

That's just like a pure taste of beef, whereas the braised one, you taste all those, I mean, the star anise, the cinnamon in there, wow.

這就像純牛肉的味道，而紅燒牛肉，你會嚐到所有的味道，我是說，八角、肉桂都在裡面，哇。

You take a bite of noodles, nibble on the garlic, mix it all together in your mouth, get the full potency of that garlic to cleanse your mouth up, boost the aromatics.

你咬一口麵條，啃一口大蒜，在嘴裡把它們混合在一起，讓大蒜的全部功效清潔你的口腔，提升香味。

Oh, I love raw garlic, oh, it's so good.

哦，我喜歡生蒜，哦，太好吃了。

So what it says on the directions is you're actually not supposed to add this to your noodles, but you're supposed to take literally one bean, you eat, and chew three times, one, two, three, and then you get the beef, chew another three times, one, two, three, and then follow with broth.

說明上寫的是，其實你不應該把這個加到麵條裡，而是應該先吃一顆豆子，然後嚼三下，一、二、三，然後再吃牛肉，再嚼三下，一、二、三，最後再喝肉湯。

All of that's mixing in your mouth at once, you get that burst of umami from the fermented bean, a little bit of chili in there, mostly for flavoring, which mixes with that beef, mixes with that broth all together in your mouth as a harmony.

所有這些都同時在你的口中混合，你會從發酵豆中感受到一股鮮味，還有一點辣椒，主要是為了調味，與牛肉混合，與肉湯混合，在你的口中形成一種和諧。

You cannot make a bad choice between the two, I mean, maybe you should just try them both.

我的意思是，也許你應該兩個都試試。

The braised one and the fresh one, but I'm kind of really loving that fresh one because it focuses more on the purity of the beef.

紅燒牛肉和新鮮牛肉，但我更喜歡新鮮牛肉，因為它更注重牛肉的純正。

And then we also got some of the side dishes, this is some of the tofu, oh, that's juicy.

然後我們還吃了一些配菜，這是一些豆腐，哦，真多汁。

They have a variety of tofu, some of the kelp, different side dishes you can eat along with your beef noodles, kind of in between bites, maybe cleanse the palate.

他們有各種豆腐、一些海帶、不同的配菜，你可以在吃牛肉麵的時候一起吃，就像在兩口之間，也許可以清理一下味覺。

And another very condiment side is their pickled cabbage.

另一個非常佐料的配菜是他們的醃捲心菜。

Mm.

嗯 Mm.

Mm, oh, that's really good.

嗯，哦，真不錯。

Not salty, just a bit sour, and very crisp.

不鹹，只是有點酸，非常爽口。

That is very refreshing.

這讓人耳目一新。

Mm.

嗯 Mm.

One of the greatest beef noodle experiences you can have.

最棒的牛肉麵體驗之一。

I mean, it's like a tiny little shop, but you really feel the energy and the action and the friendliness here.

我的意思是，它就像一家小店，但你能真切地感受到這裡的活力、行動和友好。

He is the king of beef noodles.

他是牛肉麵之王。

We've had an amazing, delicious bowl of Taiwanese beef noodles, which is one of the most popular, well-known Taiwanese dishes across the world.

我們吃過一碗美味可口的臺灣牛肉麵，這是全世界最受歡迎、最著名的臺灣美食之一。

But right here in Taiwan, for Taiwanese people, there's another dish that might even be more popular.

但在臺灣，對臺灣人來說，還有一道菜可能更受歡迎。

I'd say it's the number one comfort food of Taiwan, and we're gonna eat it next.

我想說，這是臺灣的頭號慰藉食物，我們接下來就要吃它了。

And I am talking about a dish called lu rou fan, which is braised pork belly in an incredible sauce over rice with a bunch of different side dishes.

我說的是一道叫 "魯燴粉絲 "的菜，是用醬汁燴豬肚，澆在米飯上，再配上各種配菜。

We are at one of the best places in all of Taipei.

我們所處的位置是全臺北最好的地方之一。

This place is called Jinta Lu Rou Fan.

這個地方叫 "Jinta Lu Rou Fan"。

I am so excited.

我太激動了

This is gonna be so good.

這會很棒的

This is some serious Taiwanese food action.

這可是正宗的臺灣美食。

All of the bubbling pots, the braised pork belly, that's the star of the show, why everyone is here.

所有冒著熱氣的鍋和紅燒豬肚，都是這場秀的主角，也是大家來到這裡的原因。

The aroma smells so good.

香氣撲鼻。

You smell the star anise, you smell the cinnamon, the clove, the bay leaves in there, all those different herbs and spices that go into the cooking.

你會聞到八角的香味、肉桂的香味、丁香的香味、月桂葉的香味，所有這些不同的香草和香料都會在烹飪時加入其中。

It's just hot, soupy, thick.

熱氣騰騰，湯汁濃稠。

This dish, lu rou fan, it also has a unique story of how it was developed and why it's so common in Taiwanese food, but let's order first.

這道名為 "露露扇 "的菜餚還有一個獨特的故事，那就是它是如何發展起來的，以及為什麼在臺灣美食中如此常見。

Let's see how they make it, and we'll talk more about that as we're eating.

讓我們看看他們是怎麼做的，邊吃邊聊。

Lu rou fan.

盧胭脂扇。

And everything is already cooked.

而且所有東西都已經煮好了。

Everything's ready to go, ready to be eaten.

一切準備就緒，可以開吃了。

Everything's been braising in its own juices for hours, maybe even overnight, so it goes really fast.

所有食物都在自己的汁液中燉煮了幾個小時，甚至過夜，所以吃起來非常快。

They just scoop it over your rice.

他們只是把它舀在米飯上。

We got a table right here in the front amidst all of the action, and again, the main thing that you have to come here for is the lu rou fan, but then we also got some beautiful side dishes.

我們在前臺找到了一張桌子，同樣，來這裡最主要的是吃魯班扇，但我們也有一些精美的配菜。

You gotta have some of the hyping hot soups, one with bitter melon, one with mushroom, and then we also got a fish, we got a milkfish head, and then some of the common side vegetables like cabbage, bamboo shoots, but let's just start with that star of the show.

你得喝一些熱湯，一個是苦瓜湯，一個是蘑菇湯，然後我們還有一條魚，我們有一個蝨目魚頭，然後還有一些常見的配菜，比如捲心菜、竹筍，但我們還是先從主角開始吧。

Oh, and even look at that egg.

哦，再看看那個蛋。

It's sweating.

出汗了

Look at the meaty chunks just covering that rice.

看，肉塊就蓋在米飯上。

You could just tell how tender, how gooey and melt-in-your-mouth they will be.

你就知道它們會有多嫩、多黏、入口即化。

I've never been so excited to eat lu rou fan in my whole life.

我這輩子都沒吃過這麼激動人心的魯班鎖。

That completely dissolves in your mouth.

入口即化。

It's so soft.

太軟了

It's actually like melted butter.

它實際上就像融化的黃油。

Oh, man.

天啊

And the flavor, the braising spices, the star anise, the cinnamon in there.

還有燉煮香料、八角和肉桂的味道。

It's not overpowering, but it's just so soothing.

它的味道並不濃烈，但卻非常舒緩。

But I think it's that texture.

但我覺得就是這種質感。

And like I was mentioning before, one of the great things about lu rou fan is Taiwan and Taiwanese have always been so innovative and so creative in making use of every single part of an animal that they cook and eat.

就像我之前提到的，"魯班鎖 "最棒的一點是，臺灣和臺灣人在烹飪和食用動物的每一個部分時，總是非常有創意和創造力。

And lu rou fan is such a great example of a dish that takes just a little bit of meat and they braise it down with spices until literally it melts into this sauce, which can then be scooped over rice and flavor an entire bowl of rice with just one scoop.

魯菜粉絲就是一個很好的例子，這道菜只需要一點肉，然後用香料燉煮，直到肉融化成醬汁，然後舀在米飯上，一勺就能調味一整碗米飯。

Oh, it's so stunningly tasty.

哦，真是美味得令人驚歎。

And just the dripping of the lard and the pig juices just go all the way down to the bottom of your bowl.

豬油和豬汁就這樣一直滴到碗底。

My favorite part are not even the little lumps of pork, but the dripping, the sauce, the melted pig fat and oil at the bottom of your rice that just coats every single grain of your rice.

我最喜歡的部分甚至不是那一小塊豬肉，而是米飯底部的油滴、醬汁、融化的豬脂肪和油，它們包裹著每一粒米飯。

That is so tasty.

太好吃了

One of the classic sides is bamboo shoots.

經典配菜之一是竹筍。

And this looks like there's a little bit of the pickled or preserved greens in there as well.

看起來這裡還有一點醃製或醃製的蔬菜。

I love the texture of bamboo shoots.

我喜歡竹筍的口感。

This one has a little bit of the greens in there, which give it a salty and acidic flavor to it.

這道菜餚中加入了少許蔬菜，使其帶有鹹味和酸味。

Additionally, they have some soups here.

此外，這裡還有一些湯。

This one is pork ribs.

這個是豬肋排。

Oh, there's even some clams in here.

哦，這裡甚至還有一些蛤蜊。

And then bitter melon.

然後是苦瓜。

Let me try that broth especially.

讓我特別嚐嚐那肉湯。

Oh, wow.

哦，哇

I love the bitter melon.

我喜歡苦瓜。

Some of the flavor has absorbed, has just been released into that broth.

一些味道已經被吸收，剛剛被釋放到肉湯中。

It's clean, it's clear.

乾淨，清晰。

And then you've got that bitter finish.

然後就是苦澀的後味。

Another side here that's famous is the milkfish head.

這裡的另一道名菜是蝨目魚頭。

Milkfish is a fish that you can find pretty much in this region of the world, in the Philippines, in Taiwan.

在菲律賓和臺灣，你幾乎都能找到這種魚。

Milkfish, it's a delicious fish.

牛奶魚，是一種美味的魚。

I'm not totally sure how it's been cooked, but there's kind of an oily, looks like it's braised also.

我不太清楚它是如何烹飪的，但有一種油膩感，看起來也像是紅燒的。

You do have to be careful of the bones with the milkfish.

吃蝨目魚一定要小心魚骨。

Yeah, you always gotta be careful of the feathery bones of a milkfish, but I love milkfish.

是啊，你總得小心蝨目魚羽毛狀的骨頭，但我喜歡蝨目魚。

It has this really lean texture to it and kind of milky when you eat it.

它的口感非常清淡，吃的時候有點奶香。

And then that sauce is just kind of very light actually.

醬汁其實很淡。

You can really just taste the flavor of the milkfish.

你真的可以品嚐到牛奶魚的味道。

It's really good.

真的很不錯。

Okay, let's break into this egg.

好了，我們來看看這顆蛋。

You can see it actually in that pot.

你可以在那個鍋裡看到它。

It's braised within that same pork.

燉在同一塊豬肉裡。

You can feel how kind of leathery that egg has become.

你可以感覺到雞蛋變得多麼皮實。

It's totally changed textures.

它完全改變了紋理。

Wow, I think I might just have to bite the whole egg.

哇，我想我可能得咬下整個雞蛋了。

Oh yeah, so much flavor.

是啊，味道真不錯。

And the yolk on the inside remains so crumbly and rich.

而裡面的蛋黃依然是那麼酥脆而豐富。

And with every bite, you just gotta keep on going in for that rice.

每咬一口，你就得繼續去吃米飯。

It's so addictive.

它太讓人上癮了。

It really is like taking the simple, humble bowl of rice and just giving it a flavor overdose of melted pig sauce.

這真的就像是把一碗簡單、樸素的米飯添加了大量融化的豬肉醬汁。

The next soup we have, ribs plus shiitake mushrooms.

下一道湯是排骨加香菇。

Wow, that shiitake mushroom just overwhelms your mouth.

哇，香菇真是讓人慾罷不能。

That's so good, especially if you love mushrooms.

太好吃了，尤其是如果你喜歡吃蘑菇的話。

And we got the cabbage, the braised cabbage.

我們還有捲心菜，紅燒捲心菜。

Just a simple flavor, but again, yeah.

只是一種簡單的味道，但還是那句話，沒錯。

Just so juicy, oily, melts in your mouth.

鮮嫩多汁，油而不膩，入口即化。

And then we got another fish here, a little tilapia, which again, looks like it's steamed.

這裡還有一條小羅非魚，看起來也是清蒸的。

Simple preparation, not a lot of seasoning or spice, but that's really the attraction of it.